Table of contents:
- Pear Honey - not only honey-sweet, but also very large
- Description of honey variety pear
- Advantages and disadvantages
- Landing rules
- Pests and diseases, methods of dealing with them
- Collection, storage and use of fruits
Video: Pear Honey: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews
Pear Honey - not only honey-sweet, but also very large
Both beginners and experienced gardeners, when choosing a pear, often find themselves in a quandary, seeing the abundance of existing varieties. The choice is difficult - after all, I want the pear to be both fruitful and unpretentious, and most importantly - tasty. For gardeners in central Russia, the Honey pear, which has all these properties, is well suited.
- 1 Description of honey variety pear
- 2 Advantages and disadvantages
3 Landing rules
- 3.1 Photo Gallery: Honey Pear Pollinators
- 3.2 Landing procedure
- 3.3 Video: planting a pear seedling
- 4.1 Watering
- 4.2 Rules for pruning and crown formation
- 4.3 Video: pruning a pear
- 4.4 Special care techniques
- 4.5 Fertilizers and their application rates
- 4.6 Preparing for winter
- 4.7 Video: Preparing Young Trees for Winter
5 Pests and diseases, methods of dealing with them
- 5.1 Table: pear diseases and their treatment
- 5.2 Table: pests and control
- 5.3 Photo gallery: learning to recognize diseases and pests of pear
- 6 Collection, storage and use of fruits
- 7 Reviews
Description of honey variety pear
Honey Pear is a late autumn variety. It was bred at the Crimean Experimental Station, after which it has another name - Crimean Medovaya.
The tree is medium-sized, with a not too dense crown of a reverse-pyramidal shape. Fruit ovaries usually appear on ringlets and fruit twigs.
The branches of the Honey Pear are literally strewn with large fruits
The fruits are very large - the average weight is 300-340 g, but individual pears grow up to 500 g. The surface is bumpy and slightly ribbed, with thin and dry skin. Colored greenish-yellow with a brownish (rust-like) blush.
The pulp is white with a creamy shade, tender and juicy, of a very pleasant sweet taste with a slight sourness and noticeable oiliness. The aroma is pronounced. Fruits contain quite a lot of sugars - about 10.1% and a large amount of vitamin C (5.9 mg per 100 g). It is believed that this pear increases the immunity of the human body to infectious diseases.
Huge pears seem to glow with warm sunlight
A variety of varieties is Honey columnar. The trees of this pear are up to 2 m high. They represent a straight trunk without branches, with branches tightly pressed to the trunk. Fruits are oval, yellow with an orange blush, weighing up to 400 g, very sweet ("honey" taste), with melting white pulp. Due to their compactness, these trees can be planted at intervals of 1 m. There are 5 varieties of Columnar Honey. Ripening dates are different - from late summer to winter.
Due to its compact size, the columnar pear does not require much space
In addition to central Russia, Medovaya is suitable for growing in the North Caucasus region and the Moscow region.
Advantages and disadvantages
- early entry into fruiting (3-5 years);
- high and regular yield (80–100 kg per tree);
- increased frost resistance (tolerates temperatures of -25 … -28 о С) and resistance of flowers to spring frosts;
- unpretentiousness to environmental conditions;
- increased resistance to diseases, for example, moniliosis and clasterosporium;
- good taste of fruits, their keeping quality and resistance to transportation.
- some non-uniformity of fruits with numerous ovaries;
- weakening of a tree and a decrease in its winter hardiness with large yields;
- not suitable for growing in cold regions.
Like most pears, Honey is only partially self-fertile. Therefore, to ensure a good harvest, pollinating pears with the same flowering periods should be planted nearby, for example, Miracle, Tavricheskaya, Bere Ardanpon or Bere Bosk.
Photo Gallery: Honey Pear Pollinators
Bere Ardanpon variety
Bere Bosk variety
Plant the pear tree so that you do not have to replant later. The landing site should be warm, sunny and sheltered from cold winds.
When transporting a purchased seedling, do not forget to protect its root system with packaging, and also remove the existing leaves. If you purchased a seedling with a closed root system or in a container, you do not need to pick off the leaves.
Seedlings that have dried up during transportation should be immersed in water up to half of the trunk for 1–2 days to restore their viability. Before planting, check the condition of the roots and branches, if damage is found, cut them to healthy tissue.
The distance between two adjacent trees should be 4–5 m (minimum 3 m). With a smaller interval (1–1.5 m), only columnar varieties can be planted.
When planting in autumn, you must not be late with the dates. The root system of the seedling must have time to take root before the onset of the first frost. Dig a hole up to 0.8 m deep (in the lowlands 0.3–0.4 m) and 1–1.5 m wide in the fall, even if you are going to plant in the spring.
A pit for planting pears is dug in advance
When preparing the pit, the sod layer should be discarded from one side, and the soil from the lower layers to the other. The bottom of the pit is loosened to a depth of 20 cm, then a planting stake 1.5 m long is driven into the center and the pit is filled with fertilizers.
- If you fill the hole long before planting, you can use any kind of organic fertilizer, such as compost or humus in the amount of 3-4 buckets, with the exception of fresh manure.
- Instead, rotted manure (25–30 kg) or low-moor peat compost (25–50 buckets) can be used to improve the physical properties of the soil. It is necessary to add mineral fertilizers to organics. Nitrogen-containing (60-110 g) will enhance growth processes, and superphosphate (900-1000 g) and potassium sulfate (250-300 g) will contribute to the correct development of the seedling and enhance its winter hardiness.
- When planting in acidic soil, it is advisable to mix superphosphate with phosphate rock in a 1: 2 ratio and add 2 kg of the mixture. It is better to replace purchased potash fertilizers with ordinary ash (0.8–1 kg) and mix with lime (1: 1).
To normalize acidity, add 0.25–0.3 kg of lime or 0.7–0.9 kg of crushed dolomite to acidic soils. Only dolomite or dolomitized lime, which contains magnesium, can be added to sandy ones.
After filling the hole with the prepared mixture by 2/3 of the volume, sprinkle the fertilizer with a layer of earth and slightly compact the resulting mound.
Its further development depends on the correct planting of the seedling.
- Dip the root system of the seedling in a clay mash.
- Place the seedling in a hole on the soil mound, spread the roots.
- Hold and lightly shake the seedling, evenly cover the roots with earth and compact it.
- Tie a tree to a peg. Form a watering hole and ensure the first watering (20–30 L of water).
- Wait for the soil to settle and re-tie the seedling firmly to the stake.
Video: planting a pear seedling
Proper care is a guarantee of a healthy plant.
Although the pear does not like excess moisture, it needs timely watering to keep soil moisture at a constant level. During the season, a pear needs to receive 4–5 irrigations, 3-5 buckets per tree. In dry weather, water as the soil dries. Young trees in the first 2-3 years after planting need more frequent moisture (in the first year - once a week).
Water is fed into circular grooves around the tree or into temporary shallow (about 15 cm deep) furrows. Sprinkling method works well on pears. In industrial gardens, drip irrigation is used.
Drip irrigation is a popular and economical method for irrigating pears
Rules for pruning and forming the crown
When caring for fruit trees, one of the most important operations is pruning - sanitary, shaping and thinning.
Pruning improves crown aeration and illumination, which increases yield. The procedure should be carried out in early spring or autumn, that is, before or after the termination of the growing season. Although sometimes, if necessary, sanitary pruning is done in the summer.
The crown of a pear tree practically does not need shaping. If desired, the tree is formed in the form of a free palmette or a sparse-tiered method.
Palmette shaping is recommended for gardens with limited space.
- For this crown shape, select 8-12 skeletal branches along the row. The height of the formed tree is from 2 to 4 m, with a crown width of 1.5–3 m.
- It is recommended to maintain the slope angles of the lower branches at 45–55 °, and for all others - 60–80 °. Shoots growing on skeletal branches do not need to be bent, you only need to thin out so that the interval between them is 15-30 cm.
- Shorten the center guide every spring 45–70 cm from the base of the upper skeletal branch. All excess overgrowing branches and vertical shoots should be cut into a ring.
For several years, you can form a palmette crown, easy to care for
To form a sparse-tiered crown, you need to choose 4–5 of the strongest branches and cut all other shoots into a ring. In the same way, next year in the spring, the next layer is formed, excess undergrowth is removed, and strong shoots are shortened by 1/4 or 1/3 of their length.
Video: pruning a pear
Special care techniques
Sometimes, in addition to the usual care techniques, the pear needs special help. For example, if the tree is late in the beginning of fruiting, you can correct this position by bending the shoots or interweaving the branches. Bending the shoots is required to bring them to a horizontal position, since horizontal branches grow less intensively and begin to bear fruit faster.
The interlacing of the branches helps to weaken their growth in length and increase the productivity of the buds. The pairwise interlacing of the shoots brings their tops to an almost horizontal or drooping position. The procedure can be performed at any time.
The interlacing of branches helps to increase the productivity of the kidneys
To thicken the trunk, furrowing is used, that is, longitudinal cutting of the bark. Such an operation activates the activity of the cambium, due to which the active thickening of the stem and branches begins. In some extreme situations (too early removal of shoots from a young tree, ingestion of poisonous substances on the trunk, freezing and burns), the bark may harden and the branches stop gaining thickness. In this case, furrowing restores the normal functioning of the cambium. The cuts must be made to the cambial layer without damaging the wood, fixing the knife blade in a wooden block-stop. In addition, this method will help prevent cracking of the bark from various causes.
Furrowing helps increase trunk volume
Fertilizers and their application rates
It is customary to apply fertilizers into the space of the trunk circle. This is a relatively small area (with a typical circle diameter of 2–3 m), so relatively large doses of fertilizer are required. At the same time, you need to pay attention to the fact that the required amount of fertilizer changes as the tree matures.
Approximate rates of fertilization per 1 tree are:
- manure or compost from 10 to 40 kg / year;
- 33% ammonium nitrate - 60-270 g / year;
- 20% superphosphate - 150-300 g, 60% potassium chloride - 90-200 g / year.
The lower limit of the norm is applied for young trees (up to 4–5 years old), the upper one - for trees over 20 years old.
For the normal development of the tree, both organic and mineral fertilizers are needed. The most readily available organic fertilizers are humus, peat, manure, and bird droppings.
- Top dressing is also good with mullein. It is prepared by fermenting a mixture of 1/3 manure with 2/3 water for 1–2 weeks. The finished mixture should be diluted 2-3 times before adding.
- You can also feed the trees with diluted slurry (the norm is 1.5–2 liters per 1m 2 of the trunk circle), to which superphosphate is added if desired (200 g is enough for 10 liters of slurry).
When using peat as an organic fertilizer, it is better to turn it into peat compost with the addition of 2 parts of slurry to 1 part of dry peat. Excellent compost can also be made from organic waste from the backyard. Waste (weeds, tops, carrion, food residues, etc.) are laid in heaps or trenches, moistened with slurry or poultry droppings, and covered with an 8–10 cm layer of earth or peat. The mass is composted during the summer months (if hard-to-decompose materials such as needles or shavings are converted, the process will take up to 2 years). When the waste becomes a loose, dark mass without a putrid smell, the compost is considered ready. It is sifted and brought into the ground.
Compost is easy to make and easy to use with good results
Top dressing can not be applied to the soil, but given in the form of spraying (foliar dressing). They usually work well as they quickly provide the trees with nutrients. The only danger is the possibility of burning the leaves. Therefore, before spraying, check the effect of the fertilizer solution on individual shoots. Pear trees in the form of foliar dressing are usually given nitrogen fertilizers - 0.1–0.2% urea solution in the spring and 0.3% in the summer-autumn period. An increase in the winter hardiness of pears is facilitated by foliar feeding in the last decade of August or the first decade of September with solutions of potassium sulfate (28-30 g / l) or superphosphate (35-50 g / l). If the treatment is carried out in dry weather, the concentration of these solutions must be reduced so as not to cause leaf burns.Foliar dressing is applied in the morning or evening.
Preparing for winter
Since the honey pear has a fairly high frost resistance, it does not require any special preparation for the winter, except for lime whitewash to protect it from burns and wintering pests, as well as to protect it from rodents by tying the trunk with piercing materials.
Video: preparing young trees for winter
Pests and diseases, methods of dealing with them
Although Medovaya is highly resistant to some diseases, for example, to moniliosis. But there are other diseases to be wary of when growing this pear.
One of the most dangerous pear diseases is black cancer, which, in the absence of timely measures, can lead to the death of the tree.
For young trees, brown leaf spot or phyllostictosis, which causes premature leaf fall, is dangerous.
Table: pear diseases and their treatment
|Name||The manifestation of the disease||Prevention and treatment|
|Black cancer||Brownish-brown spots appear on the bark of trunks and branches, sometimes with a cherry tint, which subsequently darken and are slightly depressed. Circles with black tubercles appear around the site of infection.||
|Phylostictosis or brown leaf spot||The appearance in June on the leaves of many small brown spots, on which then black spore pads grow.||
Any tree that is most resistant to diseases can be affected by harmful insects, for example, scale insects, aphids, hawthorn caterpillars.
Table: pests and control
|Name||Pest manifestation||Control measures|
|Shield||The appearance of reddish-brown tubercles on the trunk, main branches and shoots, from which dark juice is released under strong pressure. Drying of affected branches.||
|Aphid||The leaves curl into a tube, the petioles and stalks are deformed, with severe damage, young shoots begin to dry out. The affected parts of the plant are covered with a layer of insects.||
|Hawthorn||The caterpillars of the hawthorn butterfly eat leaves, for wintering they make nests of leaves fastened with cobwebs.||
Photo gallery: learning to recognize diseases and pests of pear
The scabbard sucks the juices from the shoots, causing them to dry out
Aphids infect leaves and young shoots
Hawthorn caterpillars actively damage leaves
Phylostictosis is rare on mature trees, but dangerous for seedlings
Black cancer is a dangerous disease that leads to the death of a tree
Collection, storage and use of fruits
Harvesting ripeness occurs in mid-September. Ripe pears are firmly attached to the branches. Can be consumed immediately after harvest, without ripening.
Remove the fruit carefully so as not to break off the stalk and damage the skin. Do not pull the fruit towards you, break it off the branch together with the stalk. Do not leave the harvested fruits in the sun.
Honey fruits are well kept. Select only whole, without wormholes and damage, fruits with whole stalks. Place them in wooden crates, sprinkle with sawdust or sandwich with hay or paper. Store the boxes in a cool room with a constant temperature of 1-3 o C. This way you can store pears for 1.5-2 months. Pears will stay in the refrigerator until January.
The fruits of the Honey Pear perfectly tolerate transportation
Pears are good both for fresh consumption and for making jams, compotes, marmalades, mashed potatoes, juices, wine and various desserts.
Honey pears are good not only fresh, but also in blanks
Pear Honey will delight its owner with stable yields of very tasty pears, as well as its unpretentiousness and winter hardiness. In addition, for owners of small plots, the columnar variety of this variety will be a good solution.
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