Table of contents:

Outdoor Metal Entrance Doors: Varieties, Components, Installation And Operation Features
Outdoor Metal Entrance Doors: Varieties, Components, Installation And Operation Features

Video: Outdoor Metal Entrance Doors: Varieties, Components, Installation And Operation Features

Video: Outdoor Metal Entrance Doors: Varieties, Components, Installation And Operation Features
Video: Fabrication of Sliding u0026 Folding Doors from Swisstek Aluminium 2024, November
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Outdoor metal entrance doors: installation, restoration and decoration features

Metal street doors
Metal street doors

The list of materials for making doors is quite diverse. But if we are talking about an entrance street door, then only steel will provide high reliability. Metal doors come in different types and differ in installation.

Content

  • 1 Arrangement of metal doors

    • 1.1 Metal door frame
    • 1.2 Door leaf

      • 1.2.1 Frame material and strength
      • 1.2.2 Sheathing thickness and material
      • 1.2.3 Anti-burglary elements
      • 1.2.4 Heat and sound insulation
    • 1.3 Hinges
  • 2 Rules for installing metal doors
  • 3 Classification of entrance metal doors by purpose

    • 3.1 Metal doors for a country house

      3.1.1 Metal street doors with double-glazed windows

    • 3.2 Access doors made of metal
    • 3.3 Doors for summer cottages
  • 4 Other classification

    • 4.1 By resistance to burglary
    • 4.2 By price range
  • 5 Dimensions of entrance street doors
  • 6 Installation of an entrance metal door

    6.1 Video: installing a metal door in a wooden house

  • 7 Repair and restoration of a metal door

    • 7.1 Hinge wear
    • 7.2 Broken lock

      7.2.1 Video: how to replace the lock in a metal door

    • 7.3 Appearance of foci of corrosion
  • 8 Finishing the entrance metal door

    • 8.1 Interior decoration
    • 8.2 Exterior decoration

      • 8.2.1 Laminate
      • 8.2.2 MDF panels
      • 8.2.3 Veneer
    • 8.3 Video: how to beat a metal door with a rail

Arrangement of metal doors

A metal door block consists of the following elements:

  • mounting frame (false box): optional component, more often used in imported products;
  • box;
  • door leaf;
  • loops.
Diagram of a metal street door
Diagram of a metal street door

Metal street doors are equipped with a peephole and a bell button

We will consider the device of the box, canvas and loops in detail.

Metal door frame

Boxes are:

  1. O- and U-shaped (with or without threshold). A box with a threshold, that is, closed, is the most durable option. In addition, its shape remains stable under any conditions, while the U-shaped frame used in cheap door blocks can be skewed due to temperature changes or careless operation.
  2. With stiffening ribs and a cavity for grouting. By concreting, the box is firmly attached to the wall, forming an almost monolithic structure with it. Such a product is superior in reliability to a conventional box with stiffening ribs inside.
  3. Bent and welded.
Types of door metal frames
Types of door metal frames

The bent profile does not contain welded seams, which has a very positive effect on the strength of the door frame

Boxes made with minimal welding are preferred because:

  • the weld is more fragile in comparison with the base material and therefore represents a weak point in the structure;
  • when welding in metal, centers of internal stress are created that can subsequently cause deformations.

The strongest boxes are made by bending. In an O-shaped product, therefore, there will be only one welded seam, in a U-shaped product - none at all. In second place in terms of strength are welded boxes with uprights, an upper crossbar and a threshold made of solid sections of the profile. Structures in which posts and other elements are welded from two sections of the profile are even less durable.

Door leaf

The canvas is based on a frame sheathed on both sides with steel sheets. This is how different door models differ:

  • the material from which the frame is made;
  • sheathing material;
  • the presence of anti-burglary elements;
  • the quality of heat and sound insulation.
Scheme of the door leaf of a street metal door
Scheme of the door leaf of a street metal door

The door leaf of a metal street door consists of several layers, one of which is made of heat-insulating material

Frame material and strength

The frame is made of two types of profiles:

  • standard: corners and profile pipes from the assortment;
  • special: manufactured on bending machines.

The second option is more expensive, but lighter with the same strength.

The frame is reinforced with additional ribs. The more there are, the stronger the door. In the minimum design, there must be two vertical and one horizontal ribs. In addition to ribs, the most durable products are reinforced with steel sheet (this is in addition to the cladding).

Sheathing thickness and material

The thickness of the skin also determines the strength of the door leaf. But the weight also depends on this parameter, but here there are limitations: a door weighing more than 70 kg is inconvenient to use and requires the use of especially durable and expensive boxes and hinges. With this in mind, for doors for various purposes, the following values of sheathing thickness are recommended:

  • 1.2–1.5 mm: minimum strength, suitable for alarms or low-value objects;
  • 1.8–2.5 mm: doors with high strength and at the same time easy to use, the best option;
  • 3-4 mm: heavy, heavy duty doors for banks and other special institutions.

Doors with lining thinner than 1.2 mm are not suitable for the role of street entrance doors. You should especially avoid cheap Chinese products: they are sheathed with tin with a thickness of less than 0.7 mm and opened with a can opener.

Front door trim thickness
Front door trim thickness

The strength of the door depends on the thickness of the skin

Steel cladding differs in the manufacturing method: cold and hot rolled. The first option is more expensive, but more durable and resistant to corrosion.

In the documentation for the door block, instead of the method of manufacturing sheet steel for cladding, only GOST for it can be indicated: GOST 19903 (hot-rolled) or GOST 19904 (cold-rolled)

It is important that the sheathing is a solid sheet. In cheap doors, it is welded from several fragments, and when hit with a sledgehammer, such a sheathing cracks at the seam. The appearance of a crack will make it easier to break in, since a crowbar can be launched into it.

Anti-burglary elements

These include:

  1. Anti-removable anchors. These are steel pins (fingers) at the end of the canvas from the side of the hinges, entering the holes of the box when closing. If a burglar cuts or knocks down the hinges with a sledgehammer, it will still not be possible to remove the door from the box.
  2. Plates to protect the lock pocket. They are 3 mm thick and made of manganese or nickel. Drilling such plates in order to gain access to the lock is much more difficult than conventional cladding.
  3. Armored pads (defenders). Installed on doors with a cylinder lock to prevent a burglar from knocking out the cylinder with a hammer.
  4. Profile preventing dismantling of the casing. Without it, it is easier for a burglar to tear off the platband and get to the lock bolt and box fastening.

When buying, you should clarify the material of the anchors: in cheap Chinese doors, plastic imitation is installed instead of steel

Burglar-proof elements of a metal door
Burglar-proof elements of a metal door

The street door can be equipped with several anti-burglary elements

Heat and sound insulation

For the purpose of insulation, the door leaf is filled with various materials:

  1. Cellular cardboard. It is used in cheap doors, practically does not provide heat and sound insulation.
  2. Glass or stone wool. Possesses the highest heat and sound insulation properties, but is afraid of moisture: it absorbs it with a complete loss of thermal insulation properties.
  3. Expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. In terms of thermal resistance, they are not inferior to mineral wool, but they absorb sounds weakly. But they are resistant to moisture.

Choose doors with mineral wool filling from well-known brands - cheap artisanal wool crumbles quickly

For a door facing the street, a foam filler (expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam) is preferable, since dampness can penetrate into it through the cracks. The degree of door insulation depends on the thickness of the insulation. The warmest canvases are 4 cm thick.

Insulation of the door with mineral wool
Insulation of the door with mineral wool

Mineral wool has good thermal insulating properties and is suitable for insulating door leaf and frame

Hinges

Metal door blocks are equipped with hinges of various designs:

  1. Classic. The hinge consists of two parts that are attached to the canvas and the box from the outside. It is fully accessible and therefore can easily be knocked down or cut off.
  2. Hidden. The hinges are located on the side of the door leaf end and are not visible when it is closed.
  3. Axleless. The lower hinge is installed on the floor and the door is installed on it, and the upper one is attached to the canvas from above and connects it to the upper crossbar of the box.

Hinges of the latter type have a number of advantages:

  • significant load capacity: can work even with the heaviest blades;
  • ease of installation and adjustment;
  • the ability not to apply lubricant;
  • no load on the box and wall (the weight of the canvas is transferred to the floor);
  • ease of opening the door.

Metal doors are heavy, therefore it is advisable to purchase hinges with a support bearing for them: hinges without a bearing are quickly erased.

Outdoor metal door hinges
Outdoor metal door hinges

The higher the reliability of the front door, the more complex the design of the hinges

The most practical are adjustable hinges, which allow you to adjust the position of the door leaf. The number of axes of adjustment can vary: some models are adjustable in two directions, others in three.

Rules for installing metal doors

During installation, they are guided by the following requirements:

  1. The wall must be at least 150 mm thick and made of durable material. Shell rock or low-quality crumbling brick will not support the weight of the steel door block.
  2. The door is, if possible, installed in the opening deeper - this complicates the break-in process.
  3. The door is located strictly vertically, otherwise there will be a skew, followed by jamming of the lock and rubbing the canvas on the box.
Installation diagram of a metal street door
Installation diagram of a metal street door

The installation takes into account the weight of the door and the material of the wall

Classification of entrance metal doors by purpose

Outdoor entrance metal doors, depending on the purpose, are divided into the following groups:

  • driveways;
  • for a capital country house;
  • for giving.

Metal doors for a country house

"Home" street metal doors have the following features:

  • effective insulation;
  • more interesting design: the cladding has a decorative relief, the structure is decorated with various elements;
  • two locks with a cylinder or lever mechanism (opened with a key);
  • panoramic peephole.

Locks differ in functionality:

  • one fixes the door at one point: it is used when there is someone in the house or the owners have left it for a short time;
  • the second pushes the crossbars not only into the rack, but also into the upper and lower horizontal elements of the box.

Doors for a private house are of standard sizes and are usually single-leaf. The closer is usually missing.

If a decision is made to install a door with decoration, then the most expensive and aesthetic option is chosen - MDF panels

Metal door for a country house, finished with MDF
Metal door for a country house, finished with MDF

A metal door trimmed with MDF will give the front entrance to a country house a presentable look

Metal street doors with double-glazed windows

The presence of a glass insert in a metal street door gives the following advantages:

  • the product looks interesting and noble;
  • natural light appears in the hallway, due to which electricity costs are reduced;
  • visitors are seen much better than through a panoramic peephole.

Double-glazed windows of the following types are used:

  • curly at the top of the canvas;
  • narrow vertical doors in the center;
  • wide vertical;
  • compact of various shapes in the amount of several pieces.

The most practical is a narrow vertical glass unit: it gives a good view, but does not allow an intruder to enter the house by knocking out the glass.

Wide double-glazed windows can be protected with grilles. Along the way, the lattice plays the role of an additional stiffener, so that the door, even with a glazed opening, is quite strong.

In regions with a warm climate, there is no need to use a glass unit. Instead, the door is equipped with single glass. In both cases, glasses with increased strength are used, and wealthy people can purchase a door with armored glass.

There are also coatings in the form of a film or mirror coating, which completely block visibility on one side, so that from the outside the glass appears opaque.

Metal street door with double-glazed windows
Metal street door with double-glazed windows

With the help of a special coating, the door glass can be made opaque from the outside

Metal entrance doors

Such designs have a number of distinctive features:

  • are made only to order (the width of the openings in the entrances varies greatly);
  • most often have a simple appearance;
  • they are highly durable, and in the absence of security in the house, they are also vandal-resistant;
  • are equipped with combination locks (opened by pressing several buttons corresponding to a digital code) or intercoms;
  • equipped with door closers;
  • are of considerable size in relation to the delivery of furniture or sanitary ware of any size, free movement of persons in wheelchairs, etc.;
  • usually not insulated.

Along with the usual driveway doors, they produce:

  • glazed: special high-strength glass is used;
  • armored.

Depending on the number of leaves and their sizes, the doors are divided into:

  • single-leaf;
  • one and a half;
  • bivalve.
Metal entrance door
Metal entrance door

Rationally install one-and-a-half doors on the entrances of apartment buildings - in this case, residents will not have problems with the transportation of large furniture

In the manufacture of access doors, several finishes are used:

  1. MDF panels. An expensive type of decoration for the doors of luxury houses and business centers. A variety of MDF is used, specially oriented for outdoor use: it is resistant to atmospheric factors and mechanical stress.
  2. Painting with oil paint. The easiest and cheapest option. Usually, this is the way to paint the doors of the entrances of hostels, office buildings and other similar objects.
  3. Powder coating. Such paint is more expensive and is applied only in the factory. It looks more impressive, tolerates high humidity and temperature fluctuations better, retains color longer. The composition of the powder paint does not contain components harmful to health.

Doors for summer cottages

In a summer cottage with seasonal living, the front door does not need insulation. If the door is still equipped with a heater for the off-season, then a layer of small thickness is chosen.

There is no point in chasing durability. In the absence of the owners, the attacker will have enough time to break into even the strongest door, so the cost of a massive product with thick skin and armored linings seems inappropriate. A budget door with a cladding thickness of 1.2 mm will do.

Other classification

In addition to their purpose, metal entrance doors differ in:

  • burglary resistance;
  • price range.

Burglary resistance

On this basis, metal entrance doors are divided into four classes:

  • first: this category includes doors that can be opened with a chisel or hammer. They are installed at the entrance to utility and basement rooms, outbuildings, etc.;
  • second: they can only be hacked with the help of special master keys or power tools with a power of up to 0.5 kW;
  • third: they are opened with special-purpose electrical devices with a capacity of over 0.5 kW;
  • fourth: doors of this class are bulletproof and fireproof.

By price range

Depending on the cost, doors are divided into three classes:

  1. Economy: they are distinguished by a simplified design, inexpensive finishing and low quality.

    Metal street door of economy class
    Metal street door of economy class

    Economy-class doors are installed in outbuildings, basements and other low-responsibility buildings

  2. Premium: finished with more expensive materials, characterized by high quality and safety, low wear and tear and sophisticated design.

    Premium metal street door
    Premium metal street door

    Premium Doors Provide High Level Security

  3. Elite: the most expensive doors. Equipped with high quality locks and fittings, armor plates. Manufactured according to an exclusive project that is developed for a specific interior.

    Street metal door of elite class
    Street metal door of elite class

    Elite doors are made according to an individual project from high quality materials

Dimensions of entrance street doors

In different buildings, the width of the entrance opening usually varies from 830 to 960 mm. Before buying a door, it is advisable to accurately measure the height and width of the opening, and at several points. Start off from the smallest size.

The door block is selected so that its dimensions are 20–40 mm less than the opening. This will ensure that there is a mounting gap between the wall and the box, which will allow the box to be positioned in the correct position.

For metal door blocks, GOST provides the following range of sizes:

  • width: 884 mm, 984 mm - for single-leaf, 1272 mm, 1472 mm, 1872 mm - for double-leaf;
  • height: 2085 mm, 2385 mm - for single-leaf, 1871 mm, 2071 mm, 2091 mm - for double-leaf.

Installation of an entrance metal door

Installation is carried out in the following order:

  1. Dismantle the old door and free the opening from debris, mortar flows, etc. If there are irregularities on the floor, they are knocked down or leveled with mortar. If there is a need to expand the opening, the wall should be cut off with a grinder, and not knocked down with a sledgehammer. Under impact, there is a high probability of cracking, leading to a decrease in the bearing capacity.
  2. At the time of installation, it is advisable to seal the box with masking tape to avoid damage and pollution.
  3. The frame of the door block is installed in the opening and wooden wedges are driven between it and the wall. Due to the significant weight, it is not recommended to use wedges made of plastic or rubber.

    Door frame installation
    Door frame installation

    Holes for fasteners are marked through the holes in the racks of the box

  4. Controlling the position of the box with a plumb line or level, it is set in a strictly vertical position by carefully adjusting the position of the wedges.
  5. Holes are drilled through the holes in the racks of the box (usually 12 mm in diameter) in the wall - this is a marking for drilling under the sleeves of anchor bolts.
  6. On some models, mounting plates with holes are welded to the box. With this design, the burglar will not be able to cut the anchor bolts.
  7. The box is removed from the opening and, having installed a drill with a diameter under the sleeve of the anchor bolt in the drill chuck, drilled according to the hole marking. Their depth is 150-200 mm.
  8. The sleeves of the anchor bolts are inserted into the holes.
  9. They return the box to its place and screw it with anchors to the wall, again controlling the position with a plumb line. The fasteners are tightened with moderate force so as not to deform the product.

    Installation of a metal door
    Installation of a metal door

    The door frame is installed in the normal position with the door leaf removed

  10. They hang up the door and check the operation of the locks. If there are anti-removable anchor pins on the canvas, check whether they freely enter the holes.
  11. Remove the door again and fill the space between the box and the wall (assembly gap) with polyurethane foam. It should be served a little - counting on a strong increase in volume upon drying.
  12. After a day, the excess foam protruding from the gap is cut off. Do the same with wedges, if they were used when reinstalling the box (after laying the sleeves into the holes).
  13. The platbands are screwed on.
  14. Hanging up the door.

If there is a mounting frame as part of the door block, first fasten it with anchors, as described, then bolt the frame to it.

Installation of entrance metal doors
Installation of entrance metal doors

Accurate implementation of the recommendations will ensure the reliability of filling the doorway

Video: installing a metal door in a wooden house

Repair and restoration of a metal door

During the operation of a metal door, the owner sometimes has to restore its appearance and troubleshoot. The most common problems are:

  • hinge wear;
  • failure of the castle;
  • metal damage by corrosion.

Loop wear

Simple hinges without a support bearing from the high load caused by the significant weight of the door leaf, wear off over time and the door sags. This problem is corrected by installing a washer of the appropriate thickness under the upper (door) part of the hinge.

If the loops are completely unusable, they are cut off and replaced with new ones. This operation requires high precision, therefore it should be entrusted to an experienced craftsman.

Adjusting the hinges of a metal entrance door
Adjusting the hinges of a metal entrance door

Hidden door hinges should be repaired with particular care.

Breaking the castle

With insufficient lubrication, the lock starts to junk over time. The repair consists in replacing the internal mechanism or the entire lock. The procedure depends on the design of the product.

If a cylinder lock is installed, the inner part - the mask - is changed as follows:

  • unscrew the screw at the end of the door leaf holding the mechanism;
  • insert the key into the keyhole and turn it, after which the mask is removed;
  • install a new mask corresponding to the given lock model, and return the screw to its place.

In the lever lock, the replacement of the internal mechanism is carried out in the same way, but, in addition, it is necessary to reconfigure the levers for a new key.

Video: how to replace a lock in a metal door

The appearance of foci of corrosion

This occurs when the anti-corrosion coating is worn out.

Corrosion of a metal entrance door
Corrosion of a metal entrance door

The door leaf corrodes due to the destruction of the anti-corrosion coating

To restore the door you will need:

  • sandpaper with different grain sizes (small, medium and large) or grinder with grinding wheels;
  • brush with metal bristles;
  • solvent;
  • putty knife;
  • putty for metal;
  • primer and paint.

Procedure:

  1. The inner lining and fittings are removed from the door.
  2. Rusted places are treated with a metal brush, then sanded with a grinder or paper with a gradually decreasing grain size.
  3. Next, the area to be restored is degreased with a solvent and sealed with a metal putty.
  4. Apply a primer.
  5. After the primer has dried, the putty is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper.
  6. Apply paint in 2-4 coats.

With this method of restoration, the repaired areas will remain visible. The door trim will help to hide them.

Finishing of the entrance metal door

The choice of materials for cladding a steel door from the inside and outside is approached in different ways.

Interior decoration

Aesthetics are at the forefront. In this case, you can use any material, as long as it is combined in texture and color with the interior of the hallway. Here are the most popular ones:

  • leatherette;
  • self-adhesive polymer films with a pattern imitating wood, marble or other material;
  • veneer from expensive wood species;
  • mirror panels: a good solution for a cramped hallway - it seems more spacious.
Interior finishing of a metal door
Interior finishing of a metal door

When choosing an interior door finish, you need to take into account the size and interior of the hallway

Outdoor decoration

For cladding on the outside, resistance to weathering is primarily important. It is impractical to use expensive finishing here because of the high probability of its damage by outsiders. All of this limits the range of acceptable materials. Usually used:

  • laminate;
  • laminated MDF panels;
  • veneer from inexpensive wood.

In addition to cladding, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • hacksaw or jigsaw (trimming finishing material);
  • slotted and Phillips screwdrivers (dismantling fittings);
  • a brush for applying glue;
  • glue, such as "liquid nails".

Handles, overhead locks and other protruding elements are disconnected from the door leaf, then it is removed from the hinges and placed on a workbench. The further procedure depends on the type of finish chosen.

Laminate

In addition to the laminate, you will need slats painted in the same color. Finishing is done like this:

  1. The slats are cut to the size of the door so that they form the contour of the cladding.
  2. The slats are glued with "liquid nails" along the edges of the door leaf.
  3. A shield is assembled from the lamellas of the laminate, carefully performing the locking connections (the shield should not fall apart when carrying).
  4. The distance between the slats is measured and the shield is cut so that it fits without gaps in the space delineated by them.
  5. Holes for the peephole and the lock are cut out in the shield with a jigsaw.
  6. Having coated the door with “liquid nails”, they put a laminate shield on it and press it with any load.
  7. After the glue dries (it takes several hours), put the door in place and screw the lock and handles to it.

If the design project provides for painting the laminate, you must first clean the protective coating on it with sandpaper - the paint does not stick to it. Suitable types of paint are alkyd and polyurethane. The paint layer is protected from atmospheric factors with a lacquer coating in 2-3 layers.

Metal door sheathed with laminate
Metal door sheathed with laminate

Laminate covering imitates natural wood

MDF panels

This material is specially designed for door cladding, because its dimensions correspond to the standard dimensions of door leaves. It is enough to choose a standard size suitable for your door and you will not have to cut the panels.

Installation of finishing is done as follows:

  1. Using fine-grained emery paper, the door surfaces are roughened for better adhesion of the adhesive.
  2. In MDF panels, cutouts are made for handles and other protruding accessories.
  3. Having degreased the door, they coat it with “liquid nails” and glue the MDF panels.
  4. A special decorative corner is glued around the cladding.
  5. The door is hung on the hinges and the handles and the lock are screwed into place.
Door paneling with MDF panels
Door paneling with MDF panels

MDF overlays are durable and environmentally friendly

Veneer

Veneer made from inexpensive wood species is cheaper than MDF panels and laminate, and its installation takes less time. Here's how it is produced:

  1. With the help of putty, the door surface is made absolutely even.
  2. The dried putty is sanded with fine-grained emery paper and treated with a solvent.
  3. The ends of the door leaf are pasted over with veneer (if you start from the front surface, the joints will be noticeable).
  4. Paste over the front surface, moving from the center.

No glue is needed to glue the veneer: after removing the protective film from the lamella, it is placed on the door with this side, covered with parchment paper and ironed with a hot iron.

Veneer
Veneer

To glue the veneer, just remove the protective film from it.

Video: how to beat a metal door with a rail

A metal entrance door is the most durable barrier to protect an object from intruders. After reviewing the above tips for choosing, installing, repairing and finishing such a product, a potential buyer will be fully armed and will be able to make it as durable as possible.

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