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Apricot Red-cheeked: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews
Apricot Red-cheeked: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews

Video: Apricot Red-cheeked: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews

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Apricot Red-cheeked: How to Grow Sweet Fruit in the Garden

Apricot Red-cheeked
Apricot Red-cheeked

Apricot Red-cheeked is a famous guest in our gardens, which is popular due to its unpretentiousness, high taste characteristics and abundant fruiting. But in order to get a high-quality harvest, it is necessary to provide the plant with certain conditions for comfortable growth.

Content

  • 1 Description of apricot variety Red-cheeked
  • 2 Advantages and disadvantages
  • 3 Landing features

    • 3.1 Step by step process
    • 3.2 Rules for planting apricots - video
  • 4 Plant care

    • 4.1 Mulching
    • 4.2 Watering
    • 4.3 Fertilizers
    • 4.4 Cropping

      4.4.1 Practical tips for pruning wood - video

    • 4.5 Shelter for the winter
  • 5 Diseases and pests

    • 5.1 Typical diseases and treatment methods - table

      5.1.1 The main types of apricot diseases in the photo

    • 5.2 Typical pests and control measures - table

      5.2.1 Variety-specific pests in the photo

  • 6 Harvesting
  • 7 Reviews of gardeners

Description of apricot varieties Red-cheeked

Apricot fruit Red-cheeked
Apricot fruit Red-cheeked

Red-cheeked - a sweet and unpretentious variety of apricot

The variety is the result of the work of Crimean breeders, was bred in 1947 in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden. Subsequently, this apricot became the basis for the creation of new hybrids. These include such varieties as Red-cheeked late, son of Krasnoshekiy, Krasnoshekiy Nikitsky, Krasnoshekiy Salgirskiy.

Despite their common origin, each of them has distinctive features:

  1. Late red-cheeked yields a harvest only in late July - early August. Although in terms of other qualities it is not inferior to its predecessor.
  2. The son of the Red-faced is distinguished by better winter hardiness and low susceptibility to temperature fluctuations. Therefore, it is more often planted in the middle lane, including in the Moscow region.
  3. The Nikitsky hybrid differs from the parent in the elongated and laterally compressed shape of the fruit. Apricots have a more delicate flesh, which also surpass the ancestor in sweetness.
  4. Salgirsky is distinguished by high productivity of the tree and good technical properties of the fruit.

The Red-cheeked tree reaches large sizes, it can grow up to 12 m. The crown is sparse, spreading, branches are long. Its life span is 50-60 years. The fruits are oval in shape. At the base of each is a deep abdominal suture. The color is golden orange. There is also a reddish hue, thanks to which the variety got its name. The fruit is covered with a velvety dense skin. The pulp is colored light orange and has a characteristic apricot aroma.

The taste of the fruits is sweet and sour, they include:

  • 13.70% dry matter;
  • 9.72% sugars;
  • 1.37% acids;
  • 13.7 mg / 100 g of ascorbic acid.

The stone is large, its weight reaches 6.30% of the total mass of the fruit. It separates from the pulp easily, has a sweet taste. Distinctive features of the variety are its early ripening and ripening of fruits in several stages.

Advantages and disadvantages

Apricot pulp
Apricot pulp

Red-cheeked pleases with early maturity, but does not tolerate frost

The advantages of this variety of apricot include such aspects as:

  • resistance to drought and low temperatures;
  • self-fertility;
  • ability to resist disease;
  • early maturity;
  • high productivity;
  • undemanding to the soil;
  • high taste.

The disadvantage of culture is its susceptibility to sudden changes in temperature. The most dangerous period for the Red-faced apricot is spring, when thaw alternates with frost. Such fluctuations negatively affect flower buds, which can even die from unstable temperatures.

Landing features

Planting an apricot seedling
Planting an apricot seedling

Apricot is planted in fall or spring

Apricot is a light-loving crop. This factor must be taken into account when choosing a landing site. The distance between groundwater and the surface of the earth should not be less than 2.5 m. The soil should not be dense. Light loamy, loamy or low-carbonate soils with a pH level of 7.0 to 8.0 are suitable for apricot.

The site must be located on a hill. It is desirable that the place be fenced off from gusts of wind, for example, with a high fence or a forest belt. A shaded area located in a lowland, where moisture can stagnate, is not suitable for culture. As a protective structure, a shield made of wooden boards can be installed on the east or north side, which will prevent the wind from affecting the seedling. When the tree reaches the age of 3-4 years, the need for such a structure will disappear.

The process features are as follows:

  1. You can plant apricots in spring (late April) or in autumn - in mid-October.
  2. It is not recommended to carry out the procedure during the growing season.
  3. Regardless of the planting time, the pit must be prepared in advance. This will allow the soil to shrink, making it easier to position the plant.
  4. When planting in autumn, the hole is prepared 1-2 weeks before the procedure; if the tree is planted in spring, the hole is dug in the fall (in October or November).
  5. Apricot should be 3-5 m apart from other trees. The same distance should be observed when planting several seedlings.

Step by step process

For landing, you need to do the following manipulations:

  1. Dig a hole 70 cm wide and 70–80 cm deep.
  2. At the bottom, you need to lay the drainage in a layer of about 10 cm. For this purpose, gravel, twigs or branches are suitable.
  3. Then pour 15 kg of humus, 500 g of superphosphate, 2 kg of ash, 100 g of potassium salt, 1 kg of lime and 200 g of ammonium nitrate into the pit. Mix equal parts of fertilizer with soil.
  4. Fill the hole with the mixture, form an elevation out of it.
  5. You need to plant an apricot on a hill. Set the plant upright, spread out the root system and sprinkle with soil. It is more convenient to perform this procedure together.
  6. It is impossible to sprinkle the root collar with earth, it should be 3 cm above the soil.
  7. Then compact the soil well. Water the tree with 2-3 buckets of water and mulch the soil near the trunk with a 10 cm layer of manure or peat.

You can also grow apricots from the seed. The planting material is pre-soaked in water at room temperature for 24 hours. The seeds are placed in holes 6 cm deep every 10-15 cm. When the plant reaches two years of age, it is transplanted.

Apricot planting rules - video

Plant care

Mulching

Apricot trunk in mulch
Apricot trunk in mulch

Mulching will protect the tree from frost and pests

The first 2 years after planting, the tree trunk circle is mulched with cut grass or peat, which is laid in a layer of 10 cm. This helps to protect the tree from frost, weeds and wind. In the third year, the mulch must be removed. If the protective layer is left, the apricot will not extract moisture in the deep layers of the soil. Its root system will be located too close to the soil surface and may freeze.

Watering

Apricot Red-cheeked is drought tolerant, but it needs to be watered to get a high yield. During the season, the tree is moistened 4 times according to the following scheme:

  1. The first watering is done before flowering or during this process.
  2. The second - in May, when there is an intensive formation of shoots.
  3. The tree is moistened for the third time in the first decade of July. For each irrigation use 20-30 liters of water.
  4. In November, the apricot is watered for the fourth time, and at the same time 50-60 liters of water are used per 1 m² of the trunk circle.

There are several ways to water:

  1. The first of these involves the use of annular grooves. Their diameter should be equal to half the diameter of the apricot crown.
  2. The second way is to use special devices - sprinklers, which are installed under the crown of the plant. When watering, water is sprayed and moistens not only the soil, but also the air. It does not wash away the fertile soil layer, which is an advantage of this method.
  3. The third way is to water in bowls. Under the crown, you need to dig a depression, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of its projection. Place a soil roller 20 to 25 cm high around the edges of such a bowl. Dig a furrow 20–30 cm wide, connect it to the bowl and supply water through it.

Fertilizers

Simultaneously with watering, the tree is also fertilized. At the first watering, use ammonium nitrate. 10 liters of water will require 0.5 kg of this fertilizer. When the tree is watered for the third time, use potassium sulfate, superphosphate or potassium salt in similar proportions.

At the age of 4–5, organic fertilizers are introduced: compost, bird or cow manure. One tree requires 1–2 buckets of such feeding. Fertilizer is applied to the trunk circle when digging.

Pruning

Pruning apricot branches
Pruning apricot branches

Pruning is needed to increase yields

Apricots do not shed their ovaries on their own, so they need regular pruning. Otherwise, the tree will be overloaded with fruits, which will lead to its depletion and breaking off of branches.

Pruning is done three times a season:

  1. In the spring, the procedure is performed at the end of March or early April, before bud break and the beginning of sap flow.
  2. In summer, the tree is pruned in June.
  3. In autumn, the procedure is carried out in the middle of October.

Pruning is started a year after planting. The process itself has the following features:

  1. In spring, shorten the tree at 90–100 cm. If branching is abundant, cut 2 branches from the main row to half their length. Shorten other shoots to an annular bead, which is located at the base near the trunk.
  2. The branches in the second tier should be at a distance of 35–40 cm from one another.
  3. The trim level also depends on the number of shoots. If the tree is highly branching, annual branches longer than 60 cm are shortened by half, and in a weakly branching plant - by 2/3.
  4. Shoots 40-60 cm long are cut by 1/3. Short branches are left to grow. Fruiting shoots are not pruned.
  5. In summer and autumn, dry and damaged branches are removed. You can use pruning shears, a knife or a file to trim.

Practical tips for pruning wood - video

Shelter for the winter

Tree wrapped for the winter
Tree wrapped for the winter

Apricot needs to be wrapped for the winter

The apricot needs to be prepared for the winter period. To do this, you need to do the following manipulations:

  1. Dig up a circle near the trunk within a radius of 1-2 m and lay leaves, humus or peat in a layer 10-20 cm thick.
  2. To protect the root neck from temperature changes, wrap it with several layers of burlap.
  3. In winter, branches can be damaged by wind. As a result, the buds will not bloom, and the shoots will die. To prevent such consequences, drive 4 pegs around the plant, the height of which should be slightly less than the level where the lower branches begin to grow.
  4. Stretch a film over the tree and wrap the apricot, tie the ends to the pegs.
  5. Sketch an earthen wall around the perimeter of the trunk so that it reaches the film. This will form a kind of hood over the tree, which will prevent the negative effects of winds on the plant.

Also, the bark is covered with whitewash to prevent pests. The procedure is performed in the fall after fruiting. Dilute 0.5 kg of lime in 10 liters of water and whitewash the stem and skeletal branches using a paint brush.

Diseases and pests

Typical diseases and treatment methods - table

Diseases

Symptoms

Ways to fight

Gray rot (monoliosis)

  1. Changing the color of the branches that turn brown.
  2. The appearance of growths and cracks on the bark, from which gum flows.
  3. Decay of fruits.

Spraying with Decis (1 g per 10 l of water, consumption 3-4 l), Fufanon (10 ml per 10 l of water, consumption - 3-5 l per tree).

Hole spot (clasterosporium disease)

  1. The appearance of light brown spots on the tree with a red border, the diameter of which reaches 3 mm.
  2. Holes form on the leaves.
  3. Fruits, shoots and buds are covered with depressed, growing spots.
  4. The appearance of growths with flowing gum.

Treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g of lime, 100 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water, consumption for a plant up to three years - 2 liters of solution, for a fruit-bearing tree - 10 liters).

Brown spot (nomoniosis)

  1. Appearance of yellow-brown spots on leaf blades, twisting and death of leaves.
  2. Change in the shape of the fruit, their premature shedding.

Treatment with Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water, consumption - 2-3 liters). Spraying is carried out at bud break, after flowering, 3 weeks before harvest.

The main types of apricot diseases in the photo

Fruits affected by gray rot
Fruits affected by gray rot

Gray rot destroys crops

Hole spots on foliage
Hole spots on foliage

Hole spotting lowers yield

Brown spot on leaves
Brown spot on leaves

Brown spotting provokes early fruit fall

Typical pests and control measures - table

Pests

Signs

Control methods

Yellow sawfly

The butterfly is 5 mm long. The caterpillars are 9 mm in size.

The presence of egg-laying in buds and buds.

Processing 30 days before harvesting with Karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water, consumption - 2-10 liters per tree).

Eastern moth

A butterfly with gray wings, the span of which reaches 15 mm. Caterpillars are red with a brown head. Their length is 1.3 cm.

Oviposition on shoots and outside of leaves.

Spraying with Karbofos according to the instructions.

Plum aphid

Deformation of the upper part of shoots and leaves.

Spraying with 0.2% Fazalol solution.

Rodents (rats, mice, hares)

Violation of the integrity of the cortex.

  1. Placement of 3-4 briquettes of the Storm preparation near the tree.
  2. Tying the trunk and lower branches with thick paper.
  3. Coating the tree with a mixture of clay and mullein, combined in equal parts with the addition of 1 tbsp. l. carbolic acid.
  4. Whitewashing of trunks.

Pests characteristic of the variety in the photo

Hares
Hares

Hares gnaw apricot bark

Plum aphid
Plum aphid

Plum aphids migrate through fruit trees

Yellow sawfly
Yellow sawfly

Yellow sawfly eats leaves, reducing yields

Harvesting

Apricot fruit
Apricot fruit

The red-cheeked is perfectly stored and transported

The fruits of the Krasnoshekiy variety ripen in the second decade of July. From one tree, you can harvest about 70 kg of the crop. During the season, the tree bears fruit 2-3 times. The weight of each fruit is from 35 to 50 g. The fruit is recommended to be picked by hand, as shaking the tree can damage them.

Store the crop in cardboard containers or wooden boxes. Apricots should be kept at 0 ° C and 90% humidity. Fruit can be stored for 6-8 days. They are used for the production of compotes, jams, preserves, preserves, drying, as a filling for baking. And also fresh apricots are eaten.

Gardeners reviews

Elol

http://indasad.ru/forum/2-plodoviy-sad/2150-vyrashchivanie-abrikosa?start=10

Nadine

http://www.tomat-pomidor.com/newforum/index.php?topic=51.0

maqari w

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/1322/page-5

Apricot varieties Krasnoshekiy undemanding to the soil, can grow in arid regions. But in order to achieve high yields, the tree needs to be fed, watered in a timely manner and pruned. The fruits can be used not only for own consumption, but also for sale. These apricots do not lose their flavor and appearance as a result of transportation.

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