Table of contents:
- Triumph North: everything about growing a popular apricot variety
- Description of the apricot Triumph North and other characteristic features of the variety. Is it suitable for growing in the Moscow, Leningrad regions
- Advantages and disadvantages of a hybrid
- Planting procedure and preparation for it
- Growing and caring for a tree
- Diseases and pests typical of the variety
- Harvesting and storage
- Gardeners reviews
Video: Apricot Triumph North: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews
Triumph North: everything about growing a popular apricot variety
Most gardeners would love to have an apricot tree in their garden. But until recently, this was only possible for those whose sites are located in the warm southern regions. However, selection does not stand still, new hybrids appear, adapted for cultivation not only in central Russia, but also in the Urals, in Siberia. Apricot Triumph Severny also belongs to them, the very name of which already hints at increased cold resistance.
1 Description of the apricot Triumph Severny and other characteristic features of the variety. Is it suitable for growing in the Moscow, Leningrad regions
1.1 Video: what an apricot Triumph North looks like
- 2 Advantages and disadvantages of a hybrid
3 Landing procedure and preparation for it
- 3.1 Selecting a seedling
- 3.2 Site selection
- 3.3 Preparing the landing pit
- 3.4 Planting procedure step by step
- 3.5 Video: planting an apricot seedling in the ground
4 Growing and caring for a tree
- 4.1 Watering
- 4.2 Fertilization
- 4.3 Cropping
- 4.4 Video: how to properly trim an apricot
- 4.5 Preparing for winter
- 4.6 Video: growing and caring for an apricot tree
5 Diseases and pests typical of the variety
- 5.1 Table: diseases and pests affecting apricot Triumph North
- 5.2 Photo: diseases and pests that will have to be dealt with when growing apricot Triumph North
- 6 Harvesting and storage of crops
- 7 Reviews of gardeners
Description of the apricot Triumph North and other characteristic features of the variety. Is it suitable for growing in the Moscow, Leningrad regions
Apricot Triumph Northern, sometimes found under the names Northern Triumph and Triumph of the North, is a selection hybrid obtained by crossing the varieties Krasnoshekiy and Severniy Ranniy. The author of the achievement is Professor A. N. Venyaminov.
Initially, zoning was carried out in the Central Black Earth Region. But there this hybrid is rare, losing the competition to the sweeter "honey" southern apricots. But the gardeners of central Russia, the Urals and Siberia quickly appreciated the new product. For some reason, the variety has not yet been included in the State Register, but this does not affect its popularity in any way. This is the reason for the difficulties associated with the search for planting material.
Triumph North grows up to 3-4 m in height. The tree is quite powerful, with a wide, spreading crown in the form of an almost regular ball. Differs in dense foliage and many small branches extending from skeletal shoots.
Triumph Severny is a powerful and rather tall tree with a spreading crown
The average lifespan of a tree is 25 years. With the help of competent care, it can be extended to 35-40 years. But this is not always cost-effective, since the Triumph Severny takes up a lot of space, and does not bring the maximum possible harvest. The average for old trees is 5-10 kg.
The fruits ripen in the last decade of July or closer to mid-August. It depends on how warm and sunny the summer was. Every year the number of fruits removed increases, reaching 55–65 kg. The maximum possible yield is produced by 10-15-year-old trees.
The average weight of one apricot is 40-50 g, some specimens reach 55-60 g. In especially fruitful years, when a lot of fruit ovaries are formed, there is a slight shrinking of fruits. If, on the contrary, there are only a few dozen of them, they are very large, with a rich taste.
Fruits of an oblong shape characteristic of an apricot, symmetrical. Ripe skin is bright orange with a "blush" where the sun hits it. Its hue ranges from pale pink to deep scarlet. The skin is rather dense, sourish in taste, with a slight edge. Small yellowish or greenish blotches are normal.
Apricots Triumph North, of course, are not as sweet as the southern ones, but for the Urals and Siberia - very much even nothing
The pulp is very juicy, aromatic and sweet. Gourmets note a light almond flavor. The stone of ripe fruits is yellow-brown, easily separated from the pulp. Her core is edible and also sweet. Of course, Triumph Severny loses to the southern "honey" apricots, which literally melt in your mouth, but for the Urals and Siberia, the taste is definitely on top.
Apricot Triumph Severny even has a bone edible, in folk medicine it is used for the prevention and treatment of cancer
Triumph Severny is a self-pollinated hybrid. This means that it bears fruit without the presence of other apricot trees on the site. This quality is especially valuable for owners of standard "six acres".
Growing a hybrid in the Urals and Siberia is possible due to its high winter hardiness. The tree "comes to life" in the spring after long winter cold weather, when the temperature drops to -30 ° C and below.
Video: what an apricot Triumph North looks like
Advantages and disadvantages of a hybrid
The Triumph Severny apricot variety has many undoubted advantages that have ensured its steady popularity for almost fifty years:
- Early maturity. The first crop is harvested 3-4 years after the seedling is planted in the ground.
- Taste and appearance of fruits, high yield. The Northern Triumph is appreciated not only by those who grow apricots for themselves, but also by gardeners who are engaged in this for the sake of selling them.
- Even fully ripe apricots are firmly attached to the branches. This allows you to postpone the harvest for several days, for example, to wait for favorable weather for this.
- Cold resistance. Wood tolerates frosts down to -30–35 ° C, while flower buds have slightly worse indicators - down to -28 ° C. Therefore, they may freeze. Triumph Severny suffers little from sudden temperature changes.
- Self-fertility. The tree does not need pollinating varieties.
- Resistant to many common diseases. The tree also recovers quite easily from pest attacks.
The apricot variety Triumph Severny is valued for its high yield and presentable fruit appearance.
There are also some disadvantages:
- Very early and profuse flowering. It looks, of course, very beautiful and pleasing to the eye after a long winter, but in the Urals and Siberia, return spring frosts are practically the norm.
- Irregular fruiting. The tree “rests” every few years. Moreover, it is impossible to predict when this will happen. No cyclicality can be traced.
- The neglect of the crown and the height of the tree. This makes tree maintenance and harvesting difficult, especially for older gardeners.
Apricot flowering Triumph North for the gardener is more a source of anxiety than a reason to admire
Planting procedure and preparation for it
Since Triumph North is most often grown in regions where winter comes when it pleases, and not in accordance with the calendar, the best time to plant a seedling is late April or early May. By this time the soil will warm up enough, the threat of frost is minimal. Over the summer, the tree will get stronger and have time to prepare for winter.
It is best to plant a one- or two-year-old apricot. The first looks like a stick about 50-60 cm high, the second has 2-3 lateral shoots. In any case, the bark should be even, smooth and shiny, without wrinkles and spots. The presence of a developed system of fibrous roots is mandatory. Don't be guided by the “size matters” rule. Large seedlings take root worse.
When choosing an apricot seedling, you need to pay attention to the root system
Any apricot, even the most frost-resistant, loves warmth and sunlight. In the shade, the fruits will either not ripen at all, or will be small and sour. For the Triumph of the North, it is necessary to find the warmest place on the site. At the same time, from the north, it should be protected from gusts of cold wind by some natural or artificial barrier - a fence, a wall of a house, tall trees.
The apricot seedling needs to be protected from cold northerly winds
The plant prefers light soils that are well permeable to water and air, for example, loam. Heavy boggy or peaty soil is definitely not for him. In black soil, apricot begins to bear fruit much later than expected, the yield decreases. In light sandy soil, the tree ages quickly, more often it gets sunburn. Supersaturation of the substrate with nitrogen is also undesirable.
Apricot categorically does not tolerate acidic soil (optimal pH is 6.0–7.0) and excess moisture in it. If the groundwater approaches the surface closer than 2 m, look for another place or fill a hill with a height of at least 50 cm. In the latter case, you will have to take additional care of drainage.
Another unsuitable place is the lowlands. Cold moist air stagnates there for a long time, and melt water does not leave in spring. The ideal option is the slope of a gentle hill, oriented to the southeast or southwest.
Planting pit preparation
For spring planting, the pit is prepared in the fall. Its depth and diameter are 65–70 cm. If you plan to plant several trees, leave at least 5 m between them.
When drainage is needed, rubble and small ceramic shards are poured at the bottom. The top layer of earth extracted from the pit (15–20 cm) is laid separately. About the same amount of peat, sand and powdered clay are added to this soil. Fertilizers are also introduced - humus (15–20 l), simple superphosphate (350–400 g), potassium sulfate (150–200 g). If the soil is acidic, you will need dolomite flour or crushed chalk (500 g / m²).
A planting pit for an apricot is prepared in advance
All this is mixed well and poured onto the bottom of the pit, forming a mound. Then it is covered with some kind of waterproof material (for example, slate) and left until spring.
Planting procedure step by step
Planting an apricot itself is no different from a similar procedure for other fruit trees. Better to do it together - it's more convenient.
- 15–20 hours before planting, soak the roots of the seedling in room temperature water with the addition of potassium permanganate (until pale pink) and any liquid biostimulant (30–40 ml per 10 l). Tear off the leaves, if any.
- Trim the roots by about a third. Dip them in a slurry of powdered clay and fresh manure. A properly prepared mass has a thick consistency, similar to fatty sour cream. Let dry for 2-3 hours.
- Slightly away from the top of the knoll at the bottom of the planting pit, drive in a peg 25–30 cm higher than the seedling.
- Pour 20-30 liters of water into the pit. When it is absorbed, place the seedling on top of the mound. Correct the roots that are curled up. If the tree was sold in a container, plant it along with an earthen ball.
- Cover the hole with soil in small portions. Periodically, you need to gently tamp it and shake the tree so that there are no voids left. Be careful not to deepen the root collar. It should be 5–8 cm above the soil surface. Soon the soil will settle.
- Water the tree again (20-25 liters of water). To prevent it from spreading, form a low earthen rampart, departing from the trunk by 60–70 cm.
- When the moisture is absorbed, mulch the tree trunk circle with peat chips, humus, and freshly cut grass. Tie the tree securely to the support, but do not overtighten.
- Cut off all side shoots, if any. Shorten the central one by about a quarter.
Even a novice gardener can handle planting an apricot
Video: planting an apricot seedling in the ground
Growing and caring for a tree
Any apricot is quite demanding to care for. The Northern Triumph is no exception. The gardener will need to pay attention to the tree regularly.
Triumph North is quite resistant to drought, easily tolerates heat, but only if there is enough moisture in the soil. Abundant watering from late spring to mid-June is especially important. This helps to increase the number of fruit ovaries. The tree must be watered during flowering, during the period of active growth (May), 15-20 days before the expected harvest (early July)
Closer to autumn, watering, on the contrary, stops altogether, the tree is content with natural precipitation. Excess moisture at this time will not allow the apricot to prepare for cold weather. The only exception is the so-called water-charging irrigation (50-60 l). It is carried out in early October, if the fall is dry.
Do not water the apricot tree at the root - you can wash off the soil from them
You do not need to pour water under the root. The Triumph Severny is watered by forming 2-3 circular grooves around the trunk. The first one is at a distance of about 70–80 cm from it, the last one should approximately coincide with the crown diameter. For a young tree, 20-30 liters of water are consumed for each square meter of the trunk circle, for an adult this rate is increased by 2-2.5 times.
If the planting pit was prepared in compliance with all the recommendations, you can forget about feeding for the next two seasons. Fertilizers begin to be applied only in the third year of the seedling being in the open field.
In spring, when the tree is actively growing green mass, nitrogen is especially important. But Triumph Severny reacts poorly to its excess, so you need to follow the dosage recommendations. The whole portion is brought in in three steps - before flowering, after it and when the fruit ovaries fall off (30–40 g / m² of the trunk circle). Ammonium sulfate, carbamide, ammonium nitrate can be scattered dry or prepared as a solution. Once every 3-4 years, in the process of spring digging of the soil, rotted manure or humus (4-5 kg / m²) is introduced. Chicken droppings must be mixed with compost or peat (1: 2) and spend no more than 300 g of this mixture per m².
The apricot tree needs nitrogen-containing fertilizers only in spring
In the first decade of June, when the fruits begin to ripen, the apricot needs phosphorus and potassium. Simple superphosphate (55–70 g / m²) and potassium sulfate (45–50 g / m²) are introduced. Natural substitute - sifted wood ash (0.5 l / m²).
The last dressing is carried out 2-3 weeks after harvest. They use the same phosphorus and potash fertilizers or complex preparations, for example, ABA, Autumn. In no case should nitrogen be introduced at this time. But calcium (chalk, dolomite flour) is desirable - 300 g / m² at least once every two years.
As the tree matures, it needs more and more nutrients. Therefore, a 6-8-year-old apricot dose of organic matter is increased to 10-15 kg, nitrogen-containing and phosphorus fertilizers - by 10 g, potash - by 5 g. Upon reaching the age of 10, manure and humus need another 10-15 kg more, respectively the portion of mineral fertilizers also increases.
The apricot tree reacts equally well to mineral fertilizers and natural fertilizing
Unlike most other fruit trees, apricot needs more than just "basic" macronutrients. The plant signals what exactly it lacks quite clearly:
- Iron. Light green spots between the veins on the leaves. The young completely turn pale.
- Bor. Leaves on new shoots form slowly. At their tops, they gather in bunches. The number of flowers and fruits decreases sharply. In the pulp of apricots - dense dark brown blotches.
- Manganese. A pattern of light specks and strokes on the leaves.
- Magnesium. Curling edges of sheet plates.
- Sulfur. Yellowing leaves on young shoots.
- Zinc. Shrinking leaves, uneven pale green stripes along the veins.
- Copper. Unusually wide and dark leaves.
Any fruit tree needs regular pruning. Triumph North with its thickened crown - especially. Also, the apricot is not able to get rid of excess ovaries on its own, so the branches can simply break under the weight of ripening fruits.
The first time the seedling is cut off when planting. Starting next year, they begin to form the crown. The simplest option is a sparse tiered. It consists of 3-4 tiers of 4-6 skeletal branches each. The distance between them is 50–60 cm. At a height of 30–40 cm above the last tier, the central shoot is cut off. It will take 3-4 years to reach the correct configuration. Then the crown is only supported in the desired form.
The easiest way to form a sparse-tiered crown in an apricot
- In the second year, 4–6 strongest shoots are selected from the side shoots, located at approximately the same distance around the trunk. The rest are cut to the point of growth
- On the third, 3-4 shoots directed upwards are left on these branches, the rest are removed completely. At the same time, a second tier is laid at a distance of 50-60 cm above the first.
- A year later, 5–6 annual branches are left on the shoots of the second order, which will subsequently bear fruit. The first tier on this is considered fully formed.
In addition to formative, the tree needs sanitary pruning. Broken, dried, frozen branches affected by diseases and pests are harvested in spring and autumn. They do the same with those that grow downward or deeper, thickening the crown. They also get rid of tops - thick erect shoots that will definitely not bear fruit.
For pruning apricot, use only a sharpened, sanitized tool
As the apricot ages, the crop often moves to the top and side shoots. This makes it difficult to collect, so periodically the tree needs to be rejuvenated:
- in the spring, clear the two lower tiers from all side shoots;
- remove all overgrowth on the trunk located at the base of 0.5 m from the ground;
- cut the top of the tree by 25-30 cm.
Video: how to properly prune an apricot
Preparing for winter
Apricot Triumph Severny is deservedly considered one of the most frost-resistant varieties. But this does not mean that preparing for the winter can be neglected. Better to be safe than looking at a frozen tree in spring.
The trunk and the lower third of the skeletal branches are covered with a solution of slaked lime (2 kg per 10 l of water). You can add copper sulfate (40-50 ml), powdered clay (1 kg) and stationery glue to it. Then it is wrapped in 2-3 layers with any material that allows air to pass through - burlap, spunbond, lutrasil. Even ordinary nylon tights will do. On young seedlings, you can simply put a cardboard box on top, stuffing it with sawdust or shavings.
Whitewashing helps protect wood from rodents
The trunk circle is cleaned of weeds and plant debris and covered with humus or peat. The thickness of the layer is not less than 10-15 cm. At the trunk it is brought to 25-30 cm, forming a mound. Bark leaves and straw are not suitable as mulch.
A thick layer of mulch helps protect tree roots from frost
Once enough snow has fallen, bury it to the trunk by forming a snowdrift. During the winter, it is advisable to renew it and break the hard crust of the infusion on the surface. Also remember to shake off snow from the branches.
Video: growing and caring for an apricot tree
Diseases and pests typical of the variety
Apricot Triumph North, with proper care, suffers from disease relatively rarely. Also, the hybrid successfully recovers after pest attacks. Therefore, special attention should be paid to prevention to minimize the risk of infection:
- regular weeding of the trunk circle;
- collection and destruction of dry leaves, broken branches, volunteers, other plant debris;
- deep loosening of the soil in the near-trunk circle every autumn and spring;
- immediate removal and burning of branches and fruits with suspicious symptoms;
- cleaning the tree from dead bark, annual whitewashing;
- using only sharply sharpened and disinfected pruning tools, washing "wounds" with a solution of copper sulfate and covering with garden varnish;
- planting onions, garlic, marigolds, nasturtiums, calendula, any spicy aromatic herbs around apricot trees (their pungent smell repels many pests).
Table: diseases and pests affecting the apricot Triumph North
|Disease or pest||How does it manifest||How to fight|
|Moniliosis||Brownish leaves, drying young shoots and dark brown spots on fruits. Then, white or light beige bumps appear in these areas, located in concentric circles.||
|Cytosporosis||Brownish "streaks" appear on the tops of the shoots, the bark becomes covered with reddish blurred spots, the leaves wither.||
|Verticilliasis||The leaves, starting from the lowest on each branch, fade, turn yellow and fall off. By the end of summer, only a bunch remains at the top of the shoot. On the branch cut, brown spots are visible, forming a ring.||
|Clasterosporium disease||Small beige spots with a bright crimson-red border on the leaves. Gradually, the tissues in these places die off, holes are formed. Leaves dry and fall off ahead of time. On the fruits - small depressed dark red spots, from which a yellowish viscous liquid oozes.||
|Fruit gray rot||On the fruits, brownish spots are blurred, which quickly become covered with grayish mold. The pulp softens. You can't eat such apricots.||
|Scab||Dark green spots on the leaves, gradually changing color to gray-brown. The fruits are covered with tough black-brown "plaques" and crack. The pulp becomes tough, the taste is almost lost.||
|Hawthorn caterpillars||Caterpillars eat the buds, feed on leaves, leaving small holes in them.||
|Aphid||Small insects stick around leaves, buds, tops of shoots. The sheet plate is deformed, twisted. In case of mass destruction, the leaves become sticky to the touch.||
Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants, so you also have to fight with them.
|Yellow plum sawfly||Adults lay eggs in flower buds. The hatched larvae eat from the inside of the ovary.||
|Weevil||Small bugs feed on leaves, females lay eggs in flowers and buds. The larvae then eat away the pulp and bone, gnaw through the stalk. The leaves are deformed and fall off in the middle of summer.||
|Fruit striped moth||Caterpillars eat away leaf and flower buds from the inside. They turn brown and fall without blossoming. Then the pests move on to young shoots, gnawing the tissue under the bark.||
|Leaf roll||Pests feed on leaves, then roll them into a tube, laying eggs inside. Cracks form on the bark, from which gum oozes.||
|Sapwood||The beetle feeds on the tissues of the tree, gnawing under the bark. Gum oozes profusely from the "wounds" left by him.||
Photo: diseases and pests that will have to be dealt with when growing apricot Triumph North
Shoots affected by moniliosis dry up, then the disease spreads to the fruits
Cutting off branches affected by cytosporosis, it is necessary to capture healthy tissue - most likely, the fungus has spread there too, it just has not yet manifested itself
None of the available drugs can cure a plant affected by verticillosis, so special attention must be paid to prevention
Clasterosporium is a dangerous disease that affects most fruit trees
Apricots infected with fruit gray rot cannot be eaten
Apricots affected by scab have almost no taste, their flesh is "wooden"
The hawthorn butterfly does no harm to apricots, it comes from caterpillars
Aphids are one of the most "universal" garden pests; they will not disdain apricots either
One yellow plum sawfly larva can destroy 5-6 fruits per season
The long proboscis of the female weevil is used to lay eggs in flower buds
Fruit striped moth not only destroys the crop, but also harms the tree itself
In a very short time, leafworm caterpillars can eat leaves on a tree almost completely, leaving only veins
The holes left by the sapwood in the bark are a gateway for all kinds of pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses
Harvesting and storage
The fruits of the Triumph North apricot ripen in the middle of summer or closer to the beginning of August. The variety is distinguished by its early maturity and productivity. Ripe fruits are easily separated from the stalk, spread a characteristic aroma, their flesh is dense, but not tough. There is no point in removing unripe apricots - they will not become softer and sweeter during storage.
Triumph North is notable for its yield
In addition to fresh consumption, the fruits are great for home canning. Jams, jams, marmalade, compotes are prepared from them. Jam from whole fruits with a stone is especially interesting - it acquires an unusual almond flavor.
Triumph Severny apricot blanks often get more rave reviews than fresh fruits themselves.
The fruits are harvested in warm, dry weather. If it's raining, it's best to wait a few days. Even fully ripe apricots stick tightly to the tree. Wait for the dew to dry or postpone the procedure for the evening. Wet fruits are stored for a very short time.
Remove apricots only by hand, being careful not to damage the skin with nails. Shaking the tree is strictly prohibited. In addition to the fact that this does not in the best way affect the quality of the fruit, the branches are easy to break.
The fruits are immediately sorted and placed in shallow wicker baskets, cardboard boxes or wooden crates. At a temperature of 0–2 ° C and an air humidity of 90–95%, they are stored for 10–15 days.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to keep fresh apricots for a long time.
The easiest way to preserve apricots for a long time is to dry them. Ready dried apricots are stored in the refrigerator in a tightly closed paper bag. The shelf life is 6–8 months. At room temperature, it quickly darkens and after 1.5–2 months it loses almost all its benefits.
The achievements of breeders allow the inhabitants of the Urals and Siberia to feast on apricots from the tree, and not only from the shelves. The winter-hardy variety Triumph Severny is rightfully considered one of the best for cultivation in these regions. A demanding culture needs to be given a lot of time, but all the efforts expended are more than paid off by the harvest.