Polana Raspberry Variety - Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Repaired raspberries of the Polana variety: Polka's unpretentious rival

Along with domestic ones, the best foreign varieties of remontant raspberries do not feel like uninvited guests in the gardens and industrial plantations of Russia. In particular, many gardeners opted for Polana's raspberries from the Polish selection. With good soil cultivation and abundant watering during flowering, it gives a large yield of excellent quality. The description of the variety says that up to 7 kg of high-quality berries can be harvested from one bush.

Content

• 1 Description of the Polana variety and photo of berries

  • 1.1 What is maintainability
  • 1.2 Polana's pedigree
  • 1.3 Table: comparative characteristics of the varieties Polana and Polka
  • 1.4 Video: the opinion of the gardener-practitioner about Polan
  • 1.5 Table: advantages and disadvantages of the variety

• 2 Landing features

  • 2.1 Site selection
  • 2.2 Soil for raspberries
  • 2.3 Landing dates
  • 2.4 Selection of seedlings

  • 2.5 Planting raspberries in autumn, step by step process

    2.5.1 Video: a variant of planting raspberries in a warm bed

• 3 Caring for remontant raspberries

  • 3.1 Top dressing

    3.1.1 Video: Wood Ash Application

  • 3.2 Watering and loosening

• 4 Pruning, sheltering, garter

  4.1 Video: pruning Polana annual shoots for the winter

• 5 Diseases and pests of the variety

  • 5.1 Table: Polana's diseases

    5.1.1 Photo gallery: diseases of the variety

  • 5.2 Table: variety pests

    • 5.2.1 Photo gallery: raspberry pests
    • 5.2.2 Video: mass destruction of plantings by raspberry gall midge
    • 5.2.3 Video: Raspberry Stem Fly
• 6 Harvesting and using the crop
• 7 Reviews of gardeners about Polana's raspberries

Description of the Polana variety and photo of berries

The popularity of remontant raspberries among owners of summer cottages and household plots is increasing every year. Gardeners are looking for the most productive, most delicious varieties and are proud when Polana appears in their garden, about whom good fame has long spread.

Polana's repairing raspberry has long acquired a good reputation from gardeners

What is remontability

A couple of decades ago, only a narrow circle of specialists knew that raspberries can be remontant in our country. Through the efforts of the outstanding breeder Professor I. V. Kazakov, remontant raspberries have won a ticket to life.

The reparability of raspberries is its ability to produce crops on the shoots of both the first and second years of growth. A number of varieties acquire new flowers immediately after the completion of the first wave of fruiting. This is due to the fact that in summer the berries ripen on last year's branches, and at the beginning of autumn the fruits begin to set already on the shoots that have formed in the current year.

Polana's pedigree

Malina Polana was bred in Poland by a team of breeders led by Jan Danek at the Institute of Horticulture and Floriculture in 1991.

Polana variety was bred in 1991 at the Polish Institute of Horticulture and Floriculture

Polana's parents were Zeva of Swiss selection and American Heritage. She inherited resistance to drought and frost from Zeva Polana, and Heritage awarded her with good consumer qualities of berries.

Two years later, Jan Danek created another high-quality raspberry variety - Polka (Polka), which has become a kind of European Union standard. But Polana does not give up positions and competes with her rival with dignity.

Jan Danek - breeder who created Polana and Polka

Table: comparative characteristics of the varieties Polana and Polka

Parameter	Characteristic
	Polana	Shelf
Bush	Low, with strong shoots. Height from 1.5 m to 1.8 m. Can be grown without trellises, but in this case it is necessary to tie the stems together.	The shoots are strong, medium-sized. Height from 1.5 m to 1.8 m. No tapestries required.
Thorns	Small, do not interfere with harvesting.	Shipless.
Berries	Large, conical and rounded, red, shiny, hard, sweet and sour, juicy.	Large, tapered, red, stable in size. The pulp is sweet and sour, with a strong aroma, dense.
Berry weight, g	5-7.	7-8.
Yield per bush, kg	4-5.	2 - 4.5.
Reproduction	7–8 replacement shoots.	up to 10 replacement shoots in a year or two after planting.
Fruiting	From mid-August to the onset of a temperature of -2 o C.	From late July until frost.
Transportability	High.	Good.
Drought resistance and heat tolerance	Drought and heat tolerance are average.	Drought resistance is average, heat tolerance is below average.
Frost resistance	High.	Average.
Diseases and pests	Resistant, except for shoot wilting and fruit rot.	Resistant except for root cancer.
Requirements for agricultural cultivation	Average.	High.
Growing areas	Southwest, Central Russia, southern regions of the Urals, Siberia. In areas where summer is short and cloudy, it is better not to grow Polan - the berries will be sour and small.	Southwest, Central Russia, southern regions of the Urals, Siberia.

It can be seen that Polana and Polka are very similar, but there are still two significant differences:

• The shelf surpasses Polana in the taste of berries and their appearance;
• Polana is less demanding on the quality of care.

Berries at Polana (left) are more rounded, at the Shelf they are very similar in shape to a thimble

Video: opinion of a practicing gardener about Polan

Table: advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Advantages	disadvantages
Unpretentious care.	There is a noticeable sourness in the taste of the berries.
High transportability and keeping quality of berries.	Relatively late fruiting, due to which no more than 70-80% of the crop ripens before frost.
Strong, undersized shoots can do without trellises.
A few thorns.	Tendency to wilting of shoots and fruit rot.
Optimal shoot-forming ability.	Young shoots can be damaged by spring frosts; after the snow melts, it is advisable to cover them.
Decorativeness of bushes.

Landing features

Polana's unpretentiousness does not mean that she does not care where and how you plant her.

Seat selection

It should be lit most of the day, partial shade is acceptable, but the berries become less sweet. Stable drafts are contraindicated in Polana. If raspberries are planted in the country, then there is no better place than a fence on the northern side of the site. You don't just need to plant it closer than one meter to it, then the chance of getting fungal diseases is minimal, and there will be no problems with caring for raspberries.

The fence will protect raspberries from many troubles

The bulk of Polana's roots are located at a depth of 10–30 cm. But some of them penetrate up to 50 cm, so groundwater should not be closer than 0.7–0.8 m to the soil surface.

Soil for raspberries

It is common knowledge that raspberries prefer light, breathable, fertile soil, the acidity of which is close to neutral, and Polana is no exception. Therefore, if you have to plant it in heavy clay places, then the soil must be improved. On the surface of the earth is uniformly poured compost or humus and sand, from two to four buckets per m ², depending on soil conditions. Take a closer look at what is growing in the place where you plan to plant raspberries. If there is plantain, horse sorrel, horsetail, oxalis, then the soil is acidic, and raspberries do not like this. Then, under digging, deoxidizers are additionally introduced: lime or dolomite flour up to 0.5 kg / m ². They can be successfully replaced by wood ash.

Organic matter is a mandatory attribute of improving the soil when arranging a raspberry tree

Further, the site is dug to a depth of 40 cm, the roots of weeds, especially perennial ones, are necessarily removed. So that weeds do not grow on the soil prepared in this way, "crush" them by planting green manure, followed by embedding the green mass into the ground. So the soil will be enriched with nitrogen, and its structure will become looser, and in addition, the acidity of the soil will decrease.

Green manure is also called green manure

Landing dates

In the southern regions, where autumn is long and warm, autumn planting is preferable. The best dates are the end of September - the first half of October. Saplings have time to root well before frost. With the onset of warmth, they immediately start growing.

Spring in the south is dry, hot and passes quickly. If the seedlings are planted at this time, they will enter the budding phase, not having time to take root. Due to insufficient moisture, seedlings do not take root well and die.

In the middle lane, raspberries can be planted both in autumn and spring. But experience shows that autumn planting still gives the best result: during this period the air is more humid than usual, and its temperature is quite suitable for the development of raspberries. If the seedlings are planted in the first half of October, then they have time to take root, get stronger by winter, and the snow that falls will protect them from freezing. But if the snow cover is formed late, then cases of plant death are possible.

Planting in early spring, before the onset of active vegetation, is also possible, but then you should not expect a full harvest this year. And, in general, Polana raspberries enter the period of maximum fruiting in a year or two after rooting. Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted throughout the growing season of raspberries.

Selection of seedlings

For a quarter of a century of cultivation on industrial plantations and summer cottages, the variety has acquired a good reputation and is widely offered for sale by nurseries. It is almost impossible to determine the variety of raspberries by the appearance of the seedling, therefore, armed with the knowledge gleaned from this publication, try the seller for the product he is selling. After making sure that you have chosen the right place of purchase, carefully consider the product.

Closed root seedlings:

• do not buy seedlings in containers without drainage holes - these may have problems with the root system;
• Their leaves in September should be green and elastic, and the stems should be smooth, without the slightest spots;
• the soil in the container must not be dry.

When buying seedlings with a closed root system, check for drainage holes in the containers

Planting material with an open root system:

• never purchase seedlings whose roots are not protected from drying out with a damp cloth and are not placed in a protective bag. If the seedling stays in the air with a bare root system for more than half an hour, then the small suction roots will die, and the chance of survival will become negligible. In this case, you must refuse to buy, even if the plant looks very good.
• the root system should be voluminous, often with the presence of a main root and many fibrous roots;
• the stem should be free of spots and cracks.

These raspberry seedlings have a complete root system

Planting raspberries in autumn, step by step process

1. Raspberries are planted by the bush or trench method. In the first case, a pit 50x50 cm and a depth of 40 cm is dug, in the second a trench 50 cm wide of the required length. The extracted top fertile soil layer is placed separately.

   

   Recently, when planting raspberries, the trench method is increasingly used.

2. Saplings are planted at a distance of 50 cm from each other, and if trenches are used, then the distance between them should be 1.5–2.0 m.

3. Small logs, branches, chips, dry foliage, shavings, sawdust are laid at the bottom of the planting pit or in a trench, all this is spilled with water. Next, two buckets of humus or compost are poured under each seedling, 5 tbsp. spoons of fertilizer Kemira-wagon, then the fertile soil extracted when digging a hole or trench is poured. All components are thoroughly mixed.

   

   Humus is an essential component of the soil mixture when planting Polan's raspberries.

4. After planting, the root collar of the seedling should be flush with the ground; for this, a mound of earth of the required height is formed in the center of the hole.

5. A seedling, if necessary, cut off areas with damaged roots, put it on an earthen elevation, straighten the roots and finally fill the hole with earth, slightly tamping it.

   

   The hole with the seedling installed in it is carefully covered with earth

6. From 5 to 10 liters of water is poured under the seedling.

7. Mulching with compost, humus or sawdust with a layer of 5–10 cm can be done immediately, or after the pre-winter trimming of the seedling.

   

   After planting, mulch the soil with humus, peat or sawdust

8. A month and a half after planting, the seedling is cut to ground level.

Comments on the step-by-step planting process:

• With good soil condition, the width of the trench (pit) can be limited to 30 cm. A larger size (50 cm) is needed so that the roots of raspberries, with mediocre soil, remain within the planting pit, and not creep in search of food.
• Whoever collected forest raspberries must have noticed that they love to grow in old fellings, near rotten stumps - she likes the decomposition products of wood and the heat generated at the same time. That is why it is proposed to supplement the content of the planting pit with branches, etc.

Video: option for planting raspberries in a warm garden

Caring for remontant raspberries

Gardeners who cultivate Polana note that it is very undemanding against the background of other varieties of remontant raspberries. But this does not mean that she does not need any care at all.

Top dressing

Polana, in contrast to Polka, does not require regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. You can limit yourself to the introduction of wood ash under bushes 100-150 g / m ², followed by light digging of the soil and mulching with humus or compost with a layer of 5-10 cm. Such top dressing should be done annually after harvesting and cutting out the fruit-bearing shoots.

Video: wood ash application

Watering and loosening

Polana is a drought-resistant raspberry variety, but you should not test its survival: in the absence of moisture, the berries are crushed and lose their density. In the absence of rain, water it weekly - one bucket under a bush, and during flowering and berry setting - up to two buckets. So that all the water gets to the raspberries, it is recommended to make earthen bumpers around the raspberries. The ideal watering time is evening, with water warmed up during the day.

A day after watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 5–7 cm with pruning of weeds. If the soil under the raspberries is mulched, it is enough to limit ourselves to weeding.

There should be no weeds under the raspberries

Pruning, sheltering, garter

The way Polana is pruned depends on how it is grown. If it is cultivated as an annual crop, then before winter all raspberry shoots are cut out at the root, and the berries are harvested only from annual branches that form in spring. Although this method does not allow for the maximum potential of this raspberry, it is the only one possible in regions with a temperate and northern climate.

The first wave of fruiting takes away a lot of vitality from the plants, so the subsequent flowering is delayed, the raspberry does not have time to give the second crop in the conditions of a short and cool summer. But the berries on the one-year remontant raspberry ripen just when the rest of the varieties have long been bearing fruit. After such a radical pruning, the raspberries are covered with mulch, which will supply the raspberries with nutrition, while protecting the root system from the cold. For a greater guarantee, you can throw more snowball over the mulch in winter.

In warm regions with long summers, it is optimal to grow Polana as a two-year crop. This makes it possible to harvest a very good raspberry harvest. In this case, pruning is carried out differently. If it is decided to get two crops per season, pruning is done twice. For the first time after the summer harvest, two-year-old shoots are cut. They differ from annuals in a lignified trunk, wilted and gradually drying leaves. The second pruning is done in late autumn. This time, only the tops of the shoots from which the berries were collected are trimmed. In the spring, selective pruning is done, removing frozen and damaged shoots.

Video: pruning Polana's annual shoots for the winter

In the spring, after the snow has left the raspberry grove, the authors of the variety recommend covering the raspberry planting site with light breathing agrofibre with a density of 19–23 g / m ². Young shoots of raspberries will grow faster and give earlier fruiting, which is especially valuable for the middle lane - a smaller part of the crop will fall under frosts that are fatal for Polana. And also agrofibre will protect young shoots from returnable spring frosts. When the shoots reach a height of 5–7 cm, the agrofibre is removed, choosing a cool, cloudy day for this.

Shelter with agrofibre speeds up the growing season of raspberries

In May and early June, it is necessary to choose 4–5 strongest replacement shoots on each bush, and cut the rest.

Also, all root suckers are removed in a timely manner, if the task of multiplying the variety is not worth it. The shoots of Polana branch well with the formation of numerous fruit branches, so the variety does not need to be pinched. Polish sources state that "the variety does not require support", but the practice of cultivating Polana shows that under the weight of the harvest, the shoots can strongly lean to the ground. Therefore, at least, if you do not organize trellises, you can offer tying a bush.

Such an expensive, but beautiful and convenient design does not allow raspberry shoots to lie on the ground

Diseases and pests of the variety

In addition to successful planting and care, raspberries also require prevention of lesions, since the possibility of getting sick for remontant varieties is lower than for ordinary ones. In addition to gray rot, to which Polana is predisposed when planting thickens, other diseases inherent in raspberries may appear.

Table: Polana's diseases

Disease	Manifestations	Prevention	Control measures
Gray rot	The berries are covered with a gray coating. Cold and rainy weather, thickening of plantings are factors contributing to the disease.	Purchase of raspberry seedlings in safe places. Competent care of raspberries: cutting out excess growth, moderate watering. When the size of the shoots is 30-50 cm, they must be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1% solution). Marigolds, calendula, nasturtium, mustard, planted near raspberries, help prevent disease.	Diseased shoots must be cut and burned. Rotten berries are also subject to burning. Before the period of active flowering with the formation of berries, Topsin-M, Fundazol, Hom, Nitrafen and colloidal sulfur can be used.
Anthracnose	On the shoots and leaves, gray spots appear, with a contrasting edging. The foliage dries up, shoots and laterals stop growing and wither.
Septoria (white spot)	The leaves are covered with small brown spots, then the center of the spot brightens and collapses. A similar picture is observed on the shoots. Excessive watering, moderately warm and rainy weather contribute to the disease.
Purple spot	Symptoms of the disease are similar to septoria, only the color of the spots is purple. It is characteristic that the stem often gets sick directly in the places where the leaves are attached. Leaves in places of spots crumble and wither.
Rust	The disease manifests itself on the upper, and after a short time on the lower sides of the leaves. Spores of the fungus are formed on them in the form of "pads" of yellow, orange or purple colors.

Photo gallery: diseases of the variety

Thickness of plantings contributes to the disease of gray rot

Gray spots on the stem indicate damage to the plant by anthracnose.

Septoria can be recognized by numerous light spots on the foliage

Purple spotting can take on a massive character, in this case diseased shoots must be cut out

Rust is easy to recognize by the characteristic "pads" on the leaves

If Polana is grown in a one-year cycle, then the risk of damage to its berries by a raspberry beetle is practically excluded; by the time they ripen, it is no longer active. But Polana is prone to wilting of the stems due to the shoot gall midge and the raspberry stem fly.

Table: variety pests

Insect	Insect description	Manifestation of his activity	Prevention	Control measures
Raspberry gall fly (raspberry gall midge)	Small mosquito. Females of gall fly lay in cracks in raspberry stems, and the larvae emerging from them penetrate deep into the stem.	In the zones of penetration of the larvae into the stem, swellings (galls) are usually formed no more than two centimeters, the stem in this place easily breaks.	The clutch of gall fly eggs is most likely on the lower part of the raspberry shoots, so they are sprayed at the beginning of summer near the ground with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid; it is useful to plant onions and garlic next to raspberries; do not overfeed raspberries with nitrogen, which may cause cracks on the stems.	Cutting and burning of stems damaged by larvae.
Raspberry stem fly	Gray insect about 5 mm long. It flies out of the ground in late May and lays eggs on young shoots.	The emerging larvae penetrate the center of the shoot, the tip of which bends. If you do not cut off the affected part of the shoot in a timely manner, then it will die.	Do not let the fly pupae go underground for wintering, for this, slightly loosen the soil in the fall; from folk remedies: you can spray with a solution of baking soda (dissolve 2 tablespoons in 10 liters of water) during the fly out.	Prompt removal of the upper zone of shoots with stem fly larvae; use of Actellik before raspberry blossom.
Weevil	Females make holes in the buds and lay eggs in them	The death of raspberry buds as a result of the activity of beetle larvae	Loosening the soil in the raspberry tree; burning cut shoots; planting next to raspberries marigolds, marigolds, nasturtium.	Use of the Iskra preparation before raspberry blossom.
Aphid	Small insect about two millimeters long. The color can be different, most often green.	Leaves curl and dry out. If you unfold them, then a cluster of aphids is found inside. Very often, the aphid invasion is facilitated by their natural allies - ants	Aphids love to settle at the ends of the shoots, so they need to be examined regularly; for prevention, you can use spraying the tops with infusions of calendula, garlic, onion husks, dandelion, as well as colloidal sulfur.	With a massive invasion of aphids, it is necessary to cut off the infected ends of the shoots and burn them; use against ants drugs Anteater, Delicia; use of drugs Intra-vir, Fitoverm, Funanon.

Photo gallery: raspberry pests

A harmless-looking insect, the raspberry fly can lead to the death of the plant

Raspberry fly larvae killed the raspberry shoot

Weevil is the worst enemy of raspberries

There will be no berries damaged by a weevil

The fight against aphids also means the destruction of ants

The small gall midge raspberry gall midge causes irreparable harm to raspberry plants

Video: mass destruction of plantings with raspberry gall midge

Video: raspberry stem fly

Harvesting and using the crop

If covering material was used in early spring, then Polana harvest can be planned for the second decade of August. If ripe berries are picked on time, the ripening process of the next wave of the harvest will accelerate. But in that case the yield potential is unlikely to exceed 80% - freezing over -2 ^to C stop ripening raspberries. The best time to harvest is the morning of a sunny day.

Ordinary basket - ideal container for raspberries

Polana's fruiting zone is about 2/3 of the stem starting from the crown, Polana's thorns are few and not hard, so picking berries is a pleasure. It tastes a little sour, you can't attribute it to dessert varieties (expert assessment 4.1 points out of 5), but even the most discerning gourmet will not refuse to eat fragrant raspberries in the middle of autumn. The shelf life of harvested raspberries is 4–5 days.

Polana has excellent transportability, she can easily endure even long-term transportation without losing the presentation. The zealous housewives will easily make preparations from berries for the winter: "live" raspberries, mashed with sugar, jam, compotes, tinctures. Polana perfectly tolerates freezing and, after defrosting, retains all the properties of a fresh berry.

For the winter, raspberries can be wiped with sugar or made into jam

Reviews of gardeners about Polana's raspberries

The variety is unpretentious and does not require excessive maintenance. Proper filling of the planting pit, regular moderate watering and mulching, cutting thickening shoots, small preventive measures against diseases and pests - that's all that is needed for Polana to give you an excellent harvest.