What To Make A Fence From: Which Is Better For A Summer Cottage, Principles And Tips For Choosing, Their Pros And Cons, Types, Purpose

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Which fence is better: what can you make

The fence, visible to everyone, unlike the interior of the house and the site, is in every sense the face of the owner. But this is an external fence. And there are also fences and fences that divide the site into parts, enclose aviaries and chicken coops, flower beds and paths. The correct choice of the type of fence, suitable material for it, its quantity and cost is a whole science. Let's figure out which fence is better to put on a summer cottage and what it can be made of.

Content

• 1 Types of fences: which is better to put on a summer cottage

  • 1.1 By appointment
  • 1.2 By material
  • 1.3 Photo gallery: options for fences for different purposes, from different materials and their combinations

• 2 Selection criteria

  2.1 A few simple rules to choose from:

• 3 What to do: choose a mesh for the fence

  • 3.1 Grid chain
  • 3.2 Welded Galvanized Wire Mesh
  • 3.3 Complex corrugated mesh, the so-called canned mesh
  • 3.4 "Cossack"

• 4 Installation of the mesh fence

  4.1 Video: installing a fence from a chain-link

Types of fences: which is better to put on a summer cottage

By appointment

1. Fence enclosing the territory. It should represent an inaccessible barrier, at least for other people's dogs and pets. Height and material are very different.

   

   Impenetrable fence made of pieces of granite

2. A fence that encloses the area where your pets are located. It is often made from a chain-link mesh that does not obstruct the view. But options are also possible here.

   

   Chain-link fence around the chicken coop

   Aviary for a dog.

   

   Chain-link dog aviary

3. A fence that encloses different parts of the territory. For example, a utility yard from a garden, a barbecue area from an area where dogs are allowed to run. If possible, this fence should be beautiful and should not obstruct the view.

   

   Fence for the barbecue area in the garden

4. Small fences for enclosing flower beds and beds. They are often placed if there are dogs on the site: so that they do not dig, gnaw, do not go to the toilet for your precious cucumbers. Often made from ready-made lightweight sections that are dug in and connected to each other.

   

   Fencing a flower bed in the form of a wattle fence made of twigs and racks

By material

1. Brick fence. The most traditional. Does not need a roof for the fence. The top is made of the same brick, sometimes laid out in a special way. Pros: durable, beautiful, easy to build. Cons: very expensive, requires pouring a cement foundation - the higher the brick fence, the deeper and more expensive the foundation.

   

   Brick fence with metal drip

2. Fence made of expanded clay blocks (cinder blocks) or foam blocks. It is placed in the same way as brick. Pros: durable, even easier to build than brick, the foundation can be made of the blocks themselves, buried in several rows into the pit. Cons: Less beautiful than brick, rather expensive.

   

   Fence made of expanded clay blocks

3. Fence made of concrete panels. Pros: eternal, requires absolutely no maintenance. Cons: for installation you need a crane, for installation - deep

   

   Concrete panel fence

   side capital foundation. Ugly, looks like a fence in an industrial area.

4. Stone fence. There are a lot of varieties: river stone, sandstone, granite, and even pebbles in a wire mesh frame. Pros: beautiful, durable. Cons: very expensive, heavy, requires a foundation.

   

   Decorative stone fence Magicret

5. Forged metal fence. Pros: perhaps the most beautiful; does not require a roof. Cons: perhaps the most expensive; does not protect from looks; requires brick or stone pillars, which, in turn, require foundation pouring.

   

   Wrought iron fence and gates on stone pillars

6. Cast metal fence, imitation forging. Pros: the same, but much cheaper than the previous one. The cons are the same.

   

   Fence from imitation forging

7. A metal fence made of the so-called corrugated board. The corrugated board can be mounted on metal I-beams, channels or corners embedded in the ground or embedded in the ground, or maybe on brick, block or stone pillars. With good coloring and treatment of the roof (the so-called drip) does not require, but it is better to put it all the same so that nothing rusted. Pros: durable, inexpensive, lightweight, even looks good with a good frame and color. There are practically no downsides.

   

   Metal fence made of corrugated board on brick pillars

8. Plastic fence made of hardboard or any other plastic boards, or ready-made modules. In everything it is similar to a fence made of corrugated board, but cheaper and lighter. Depending on the type of plastic, it can be opaque or translucent.

   

   Fence made of plastic modules

9. Metal mesh fence. This can be a reinforcing mesh for concrete pouring (a rod cross-section of about 8 millimeters, a cell size of about 10 centimeters), or a metal open-air flat mesh with different mesh sizes, or the so-called elastic mesh netting. Pros: minimal cost and ease of installation - you can do without foundation and capital supports. Cons: complete transparency and easy overcoming.

   

   Mesh fence

10. Solid wood fence. It is mounted similarly to a fence made of corrugated board, but wooden logs are added to the pole options. Pros: inexpensive, lightweight, beautiful. Cons: Requires a drip tip and special treatment against decay and deformation for protection from rain.

    

    Wooden fence made of ready-made panels on wooden posts

11. Wooden fence made of openwork shields. Similar to the previous one, but does not interfere with the look. The pros and cons are the same.

    

    Wooden fence made of openwork shields

12. Wooden fence made of boards. The difference with the previous one is that the fence is assembled from individual boards, not shields. The pluses are the same. The cons are the same, but manufacturing is a little more time consuming than the previous one.

    

    Deaf fence made of boards

13. Wooden fence made of horizontal logs, imitating a frame. Pros: beautiful, durable. Cons: expensive, requires posts and foundations.

    

    A fence that imitates a blockhouse made of logs

14. A wooden fence made of pillars dug into the ground (palisade), or its imitation. Pros: looks very stylish and beautiful. Cons: Difficulty in assembly, the cost is higher than that of other wooden fences.

    

    Palisade

15. A wooden fence made of a flexible rod on supports (wicker). Pros: incredibly stylish, cheap, easy to perform, you can buy ready-made wicker shields. Cons: strictly speaking, this is generally a symbolic semblance of a fence. Although psychologically it separates the territory well.

    

    Wattle

16. Wooden picket fence. You can buy ready-made modules from slats, you can assemble the fence yourself. Pros: Very cheap, requires little wood, easy to build. Cons: low, transparent, requires processing from decay and deformation. Basically, it is protection from pets and dogs.

    

    Picket fence with wicket

17. Plastic fence made of plastic picket fence. Pros: cheap, easy to buy any profile, not subject to any decay, does not require protection from rain and snow. The disadvantages are the same as for a wooden picket fence.

    

    Plastic picket fence

18. Reed wicker fence. In Russia, it practically does not occur. Although beautiful and very durable for its material. Pros: easy to install, lightweight, tall, opaque, fairly durable. Cons: It is very difficult to find reed shields in Russia.

    

    Reed fence

19. Fence from plastic bottles. This, of course, is completely exotic - but it is loved by summer residents and is often found.

    

    Fence from plastic bottles

20. Fences that are a combination of all of the above options.

21. A hedge made of boxwood, thuja, spruce. It may well replace a full-fledged fence. In the climate near Moscow, growing it is quite problematic, but possible.

    

    Thuja hedge in Stary Oskol

Photo gallery: options for fences for different purposes, from different materials and their combinations

Chain-link fence

House wall made of plastic bottles

Combined fence: openwork wooden panels, stone base

Wicker fence - pipes, reeds

Plastic shield for fence construction

Palisade painted with pencils

Pebble fence in wire frame

Fence from horizontal logs

Picket fence

Designer fence made of sawn boards

Scheme of concreting supports for many types of fences

The strip foundation scheme for many types of fences

Criterias of choice

There are not many of them. You bought or acquired a property. The first thing that any owner does, even before the construction of a house, is to build at least a symbolic, and more often a capital and high fence to mark the territory and hide from prying eyes. It is good if your plot or house is in a village where good-neighborly relations are still preserved. And if you have settled in a new suburban village, where no one knows anyone yet and there are a lot of work teams of unknown origin around, then a high fence is the only guarantee of your safety. But in this case, its cost can well be compared with the cost of the house itself.

The dacha village can be of a high level, with security and electronic security systems. Then a high fence is completely unnecessary to protect against intruders. It just acts as a screen from prying eyes.

But there is another theory: that the fence is the expression of the character of its owner. An open wattle fence is as different from a three-meter brick bastion, as a gullible extrovert is from a pragmatic unsociable.

There is a third point: the attitude to the owner that has developed over the centuries according to the height of his fence. If the fence is high and impenetrable, then either you are a good zealous owner, or you have something to hide.

A few simple rules to choose from:

• Fences are part of the landscape or landscape that surrounds your home. They should be in harmony with the house, flowers, trees, garden furniture, and the design of reservoirs. If you have a design house, then the main fence and small house fences should have the same design solution.
• It is believed that the color scheme of both the house and the fence should not contain more than three colors.
• Tall, opaque fences are good if the house is in a crowded place or by the road. The height should be such that only the first floor of your house is not visible.
• There should be a single style solution at the roof of your house - and at the visor of the gate and the drip of the fence.
• The wicket and gate are a very important accent in the fence. They should also fit into a single style solution of the estate.
• The greenery planted inside and outside the fence will decorate it, visually facilitate the structure. Ivy or tall plants are good for stone fences. For openwork wooden - curly roses or rose hips.
• Inside, along the perimeter of the site, it is good to design a walking path along the fence, planting it with flowers and bushes.

• If the site is large and the path is long, it is good to place gazebos or benches there.

  

  Living pine fence and bench

In the end, it all depends on your character, preferences and taste, on how much you are willing to spend on the purchase and installation or construction of a fence, and on the functions that are required from this particular fence. You may well rely on the classification of fences given above.

But the very first, simple and cheap option for a country fence is a grid. It can be different.

What to do: choose a mesh for the fence

The mesh as a fence is good for many reasons: low price, ease of installation - even a teenager can easily do it, permeability to the sun and air, and because of this, the mesh does not visually reduce or divide the area, although it performs its functions of defining it … Due to its plasticity, it can be installed on the terrain of any relief.

Rabitz

This familiar name comes from the name of the German engineer Karl Rabitz, who invented it. The chain-link is of three types.

1. A chain-link made of ordinary metal wire without coating. The cheapest. But due to corrosion, its service life is short, and even earlier it acquires an untidy rusty appearance. It is problematic and unprofitable to process or paint it. It's easier to buy galvanized and plastic-coated mesh.

   

   Normal metal chain-link

2. Galvanized chain-link. The leader of sales, has a harmonious ratio of price and durability. Looks great, lasts a long time.

   

   Galvanized chain-link

3. A chain-link with a polymer coating. The most durable, can be very beautiful - if the coating is bright. But the most expensive one.

   

   Polymer coated chain-link

Welded Galvanized Wire Mesh

This is a relatively recent invention. Sold in rolls, it has a much more presentable appearance than a loose chain-link. Serves just as long. It is mounted in much the same way, but needs less upper frame.

Welded Galvanized Wire Mesh

Complex corrugated mesh, the so-called canned

It consists of an intertwining corrugated rod with a cross section of 4-5 millimeters, cells can be square or rectangular. The most durable and beautiful of all types of mesh.

Fluted corrugated mesh

Kazachka

The cheapest, budgetary type of galvanized mesh. In fact, this is a lightly intertwined wire that serves to fencing gardens and fields from animals. It differs in different sizes of cells: at the ground they are smaller, as they move to the top they increase.

Net "Kazachka"

Installation of a mesh fence

Its principles for all types are similar, and for example we will consider the installation of a chain-link: there are nuances that do not exist for other types of nets. The mesh belongs to the so-called tension structures.

1. We decide on the length of the fence.
2. We decide on our purchasing power. The type of chain-link depends on this.
3. Different types of chain-link have different roll lengths. Having chosen a chain-link, we calculate the number of mesh rolls.
4. We decide on the type of supports. In the most rigid or temporary version, you can hang the chain-link on wooden poles or even poles. But for an expensive chain-link it would be much better to install supports made of metal pipes with a diameter of 50-70 millimeters and a height equal to the width of the chain-link plus 10 centimeters plus the length of the support depth. Usually it is equal to 80-100 centimeters, but in places with little windage - that is, where strong winds do not blow, you can limit yourself to half a meter.
5. We decide on the technology for installing the supports. It is of four types: direct driving into the ground; combined - hammering followed by cementing with pouring a stone into the upper part of the hole by about half of its depth; "Bucking" - first, a hole with a diameter larger than the support is dug, a support is placed, strengthened by pouring pebbles and tamping; and complete cementing of the dug hole with the support installed in it.
6. We mark with the help of twine and pegs the places for the supports. There should be about 2.5–3 meters between them.
7. We dig holes. Better to do this with a garden drill.
8. We install and strengthen the supports in one of four ways.
9. The top of the supports, so that moisture does not get there, must be plugged with special plastic plugs that are sold in stores.
10. Having installed the supports, at a height of about 5 centimeters from the ground, we mount metal strips of about 8x20 millimeters or a corresponding corner between them. Ideally, it is better to weld them, but you can also fix them with self-tapping screws. You can use wire rod, which is threaded into holes pre-drilled in the pipes of the supports and fixed with one turn around the pipe. If the support is wooden, the wire is also wrapped around it, but it is fixed with nails.
11. We begin to unfold and stretch the mesh, immediately tying it as often as possible to the supports and the crossbar with a steel wire with a cross section of 1.5-2 mm.

12. After installing the mesh through its upper edge, we pass (or simply pull, then it must be tied to the mesh) another wire rod. After broaching for a certain length, it must be twisted each time in such a way that it is extremely tightly stretched.

    

    Chain-link fence scheme

13. The fence is ready.

Video: installing a fence from a chain-link

A fence for a summer residence is an unusually interesting topic. The very process of choosing a fence, and in some cases, its construction, will give you a lot of pleasure.