Cucumber Varieties Marinda F1 - Cultivation, Rules Of Care And Other Important Nuances

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Cucumbers Marinda F1: all about growing a popular variety

Cucumbers are an extremely popular vegetable among Russians. It is difficult to find a garden plot where at least a few shrubs of this plant do not grow. Marinda F1 is a Dutch variety that quickly gained popularity among gardeners due to its excellent taste and abundant fruiting.

Content

• 1 Marinda cucumber: description and varietal features

  1.1 Table: advantages and disadvantages of a hybrid

• 2 Planting procedure

  • 2.1 Site selection

  • 2.2 Soil preparation

    2.2.1 Video: preparing a cucumber garden

  • 2.3 Growing and planting seedlings

    1 Preparing seedlings: step by step process

  • 2.4 Seed cucumbers

• 3 Care

  • 3.1 Weeding and loosening
  • 3.2 Watering
  • 3.3 Fertilization

  • 3.4 Bush formation

    3.4.1 Video: the correct formation of a cucumber bush

• 4 Diseases and pests

  • 4.1 Table: diseases and pests affecting the Marinda cucumber variety

    4.1.1 Photo gallery: what diseases and pests will have to be dealt with when growing Marinda cucumbers

• 5 When to harvest and where to store the crop
• 6 Reviews of gardeners

Cucumber Marinda: description and varietal features

Marinda is an early maturing variety of Dutch cucumbers. Originator - Monsanto Holland BV. It takes 6-7 weeks from germination to the first harvest. Self-pollinated hybrid, intended for cultivation in greenhouses or in the open field.

In each node of the bush 5-7 fruits ripen

Marinda's bushes are quite powerful, but not thick, they consist of several lashes. In each node 5–7 fruits ripen. Cucumbers are small, regular cylindrical in shape. The average fruit length is 8-10 cm, weight is 65-70 g.

The skin of cucumbers is thin, rich green, covered with large sparse tubercles. The pulp is dense, without voids, crispy, without bitterness. The seeds are small.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a hybrid

pros	Minuses
High rates of seed germination (at least 8 germinate out of 10).	Plants are strongly affected by angular spotting.
Self-pollination (fruits are set without the help of bees).
The ability to grow in beds and greenhouses.
Successful adaptation to different climatic conditions.
Abundant long-term fruiting.
A small number of lashes in the bush, so Marinda needs almost no formation.	Fruits outgrow quickly. The crop must be harvested regularly, at least once every 3-4 days.
Early ripeness.
Excellent taste and attractive appearance.
Versatility of use.
Resistance to many common diseases typical of the culture (not affected by cladosporiosis, viral mosaic, scab, almost does not suffer from powdery mildew, peronosporiosis and anthracnose).

The beautiful appearance of Marinda cucumbers is one of the advantages of the hybrid

Landing procedure

Marinda cucumbers can be grown both by seeds and seedlings. To get the highest possible yield, you need to choose the right planting site and prepare the garden bed.

Seat selection

Marinda, like other cucumbers, prefers fertile soil with good aeration. Low nitrogen content in the soil is desirable. Place the beds where they will be well warmed up by the sun, provide protection from cold drafts.

Cucumbers prefer warm, sunny places

Places where groundwater approaches the surface closer than 1.5–2 m will not work.

Soil preparation

The cucumber garden is prepared in the fall. At ground level or at a depth of 10–15 cm, a "pillow" is formed of fallen leaves, broken branches, sawdust of coniferous trees, finely chopped straw, compost.

The correct cucumber bed is a rather complex design

In the process of digging, fertilizers are applied - 100 l of rotted manure, 400 g of simple superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate per 10 m². If the substrate is acidic, you will also need dolomite flour (300–400 g / m²). In the spring, 2-3 days before planting, the soil is watered with a solution of any nitrogen-containing fertilizer (ammonium nitrate, carbamide, ammonium sulfate) - 20-25 g per 10 l of water.

Spray the finished bed with a solution of copper sulfate (25-30 ml per 10 liters). Then smooth and sprinkle with hot (55-60 ° C) water with the addition of potassium permanganate (pale pink solution). Until spring, it is covered with plastic wrap.

Video: preparing a cucumber garden

Growing and planting seedlings

Seedling cucumbers are most often grown in areas with a temperate climate, in the so-called zones of risky farming. It is advisable to pre-discard the seeds by placing them in a salt solution (50 g per 200 ml of water). Those that emerge will definitely not sprout.

Cucumber seedlings will allow for an earlier harvest

Seedling preparation: a step-by-step process

1. Wrap the seeds in cheesecloth, moistening it with water or a weak (2-3 ml per 1 liter) solution of a biostimulator (Epin, potassium humate). Maintain a temperature around 30 ° C. Leave it on for 2-3 days.
2. Fill small pots with all-purpose seedling soil or a mixture of peat chips and sawdust (2: 1). Water the substrate liberally.
3. Plant the seeds, deepening them 1.5–2 cm. Cover the containers with foil or glass. Maintain humidity 85–90%, constant temperature about 25 ° C.
4. As soon as shoots appear (after 4–7 days), lower the temperature to 18–20 ° C during the day and 14–16 ° C at night. Moisten the soil as it dries.
5. After about a month, the seedlings are ready for planting. 7-10 days before that, you need to start hardening it, taking the pots out into the open air for 2-3 hours every day.
6. When planting, follow the pattern, leaving about 50 cm between plants and 35-40 cm between rows. Pour 1 liter of warm water over each well and add some rotted manure, compost or humus to the bottom.
7. Remove the seedlings from the pot along with the earthy clod, place them in the hole and gently tamp the soil. If the pot is peaty, plant it right with it.

Seed cucumbers

In warm southern regions, cucumbers are planted by seed in open ground. Also, this method is suitable for greenhouses and greenhouses. The soil should warm up well - at least 15 ° C at a depth of 8-10 cm. The outside temperature during planting should not be lower than 15-17 ° C.

In warm southern regions, cucumbers are planted with seeds directly into open ground

Planting seeds in the ground is as follows:

1. Soak the seeds for 2-3 days in water with the addition of activated carbon and succinic acid (one tablet per 200 ml of water).
2. Bury the seeds 3–4 cm in the ground, following the same pattern as when planting seedlings.
3. Protect plantings from the cold by covering with plastic wrap. Leave it on for 2-3 days, then moisten the substrate well.
4. Water the cucumbers regularly, keeping the soil slightly damp at all times.

Put 2-3 seeds in the hole

Care

Marinda cucumbers are unpretentious. But getting the maximum possible harvest is impossible without proper care.

Weeding and loosening

The cucumber patch should be weeded and loosened at least once a week. It is best to do this after the next watering - weed roots come out more easily from wet soil. Mulching the soil will help save time on loosening and weeding.

Mulch in the garden will retain moisture and prevent weeds from germinating

Watering

Cucumbers are a moisture-loving plant. It is especially important to water it correctly during the formation of the fruit. If it is cool outside, one irrigation every 6-8 days is enough before flowering, and after 3-4 days. In the heat, you will have to switch to daily watering. The norm is 15–20 l / m². To moisten the soil deeper, you can first make several punctures with a pitchfork.

Use a spray can (those with a narrow spout flush out the soil, exposing the roots). You can also pour water into the furrows between the plants. The best option is drip irrigation.

Drip irrigation is ideal for cucumber bushes

Fertilization

Cucumbers with an early ripening period, which include Marinda, need 4 additional dressings per season, on average once every 12-15 days.

The plant itself signals what exactly it lacks:

• nitrogen: leaves shrink and turn pale;
• potassium: light yellow border on the leaves, rotting fruit ovaries;
• phosphorus: small deformed flowers, leaves with a grayish tint;
• calcium: small dark leaves, short internodes;
• boron: crocheted cucumbers with a thickening at the bottom.

The first feeding is carried out 12-15 days after the seedlings are planted in the ground or after 2-3 pairs of leaves appear in the seedlings. During this period, plants need nitrogen. It is found in carbamide, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate. Dissolve 15–20 g of the preparation in 10 l of water and water the plants. A natural alternative is an infusion of fresh cow dung or poultry manure. The raw material should be allowed to ferment for 3-4 days, then the solution should be mixed and diluted with water, respectively, 1: 8 or 1:20.

Infusion of cow dung is a popular, affordable and completely natural fertilizer

Blooming cucumbers need potassium. They are watered with a solution of potassium nitrate or potassium magnesium (10-15 g per 10 liters of water). After another 12-15 days, apply foliar feeding. You can spray the leaves with an infusion of fresh or powdered yeast, brown bread crumb, nettle or dandelion greens.

In the last top dressing, a complex fertilizer is used to prolong the fruiting period. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be present in approximately equal proportions. Suitable, for example, Nitroammofoska, Azofoska, Spring, Agricola, Solution.

Correctly carried out top dressing allows you to maximize the fruiting period of cucumbers

Bush formation

The bushes of Marinda do not differ in their strong spreading. Therefore, the formation will take a minimum of time and effort from the gardener. Near the plants, you need to pull the threads tied to the ceiling of the greenhouse. In the open ground, you will have to build special trellises with a height of 1.5–2 m.

Tie the plants to a support 12-15 days after planting.

The female flowers, from which the ovaries are formed, are located mainly on the lateral shoots. After 4-5 true leaves appear, pinch the top of the plant (do not break it off). Pinch all lateral lashes after the second or fourth leaf, stimulating more branching.

Video: the correct formation of a cucumber bush

Diseases and pests

Cucumbers, which are regularly looked after, suffer from diseases much less often than abandoned plantings. Simple preventive measures will help to minimize the risk of infection:

• growing cucumbers in one place for no more than 3-5 years;
• pre-plant disinfection of seeds;
• correct (without thickening) planting scheme;
• regular weeding of the beds;
• inspection of plantings at least once every 3-5 days and immediate removal of diseased fruits, whips, and if the infection has gone far - whole bushes;
• using only sharply sharpened disinfected instruments;
• watering only with warm water;
• cleaning the garden from plant debris after the end of fruiting;
• deep digging of the soil.

Table: diseases and pests affecting the Marinda cucumber variety

Disease or pest	External manifestations	Control measures
Powdery mildew	A whitish coating, like flour, on the upper side of the leaves. Then these rounded spots turn yellow and brown.	Spray the cucumbers weekly with Ampelomycin solution (20 ml per 5 l of water). At the first sign - dust the leaves with colloidal sulfur or spray with a solution of baking soda (50 g per 10 l). In severe cases, use fungicides (Topaz, Skor, Abiga-Peak). Repeat the treatment 3-4 times with an interval of 5-7 days.
Peronosporosis (downy mildew)	Small numerous pale yellow spots on the leaves. After about a week, they turn brown and begin to dry out.	Stop watering and feeding. Spray the plants with HOM solution or Bordeaux liquid (40 g per 10 L of water). After 2-3 days, treat the bushes with Ordan, Ridomil. For a week, ensure the temperature is not lower than 25 ° C.
White rot (sclerotinia)	The roots and bases of the stems are covered with a dense layer of fluffy white bloom with black dots. The tissues under it "get wet" and become slimy.	Remove the lower leaves by sprinkling the slices with crushed chalk and activated carbon. Wipe off the plaque with a cotton swab dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (2-3 g per 1 liter of water). Drizzle the cucumbers with potassium permanganate solution (0.3 g / l). To feed the plants - 1 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate and 10 g of carbamide per 10 liters of water (the norm per bush is 1–1.5 liters).
Gray rot	Slimy spots on fruits, gradually covered with a layer of gray fluffy bloom.	Remove all fruits with traces of damage, even minimal ones. Treat plants with Rovral, Bayleton, Previkur. For a month, water with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate instead of ordinary water.
Anthracnose	Yellow-brown, rapidly growing spots on the leaves, pinkish, gradually blackening "pads" on the fruits. Cucumbers shrivel and rot.	At the first sign, treat the plantings with Bordeaux liquid or HOM (4 g / l). Repeat three times with an interval of 7-10 days. In the absence of effect, apply Polycarbacin, Fundazol (2-3 g / l). 3-4 treatments are allowed, the last one - at least 15-20 days before harvest. At the end of fruiting, wipe the frames and glass of the greenhouse with a solution of bleach (20 g / l).
Angular spot (bacteriosis)	Angular oily spots on the leaves. Gradually these places turn brown and dry, holes are formed. On the fruits - ulcers and drops of a sticky cloudy liquid. Cucumbers become "wooden", unsuitable for food.	Pickle the seeds before planting for 24 hours in a solution of zinc sulfate (1 g per 5 l of water). At the first sign, spray the plants with mustard powder infusion or Bordeaux liquid once every 2 weeks (the last time - 12-15 days before fruiting). Treat plants with HOM (4 g / l), maximum 3 times per season.
Spider mite	The leaf petioles are braided with thin translucent threads, on the leaf plates there are light "marble" streaks.	In the early stages - spray the leaves with a solution of hydrogen peroxide or ammonia (3-5 ml / l). Powder them with tobacco dust. In severe cases, apply acaricides (Akarin, Agravertin, Kleschevit, Fitoverm). It will take 3-4 treatments with an interval of 5-12 days. It is advisable to change the drugs. Experienced gardeners for the prevention of spider mite attacks recommend planting cucumbers, alternating them with tomatoes and cabbage.
Gall nematode	Small spherical swellings on the roots. The growth rate of the bushes and the yield are greatly reduced.	Replace the top 15–20 cm of soil. Add Nemabakt to the new soil. Pour hot (40–45 ° C) water over the cucumbers. After harvesting, steam or spray with Carbation.
Melon aphid	Pests of lime or black-brown color settle in whole colonies on the wrong side of young leaves, stick around the tops of shoots and buds.	Before planting, spill the soil with a solution of Karbofos, Decis. Remove the most damaged leaves and shoots. Spray cucumbers 3-4 times a day with infusion of onions, garlic, tobacco crumbs, any pungent-smelling herbs. If there is no effect, apply Kinmix, Marshal, Arrivo, Biotlin (according to the instructions).
Aleurodida (whitefly)	Whitish moth-like butterflies rise from the bush at the lightest touch. As a result of their activity, the leaves curl and wither.	Wipe the leaves with lather of laundry soap, then rinse with water. Hang sticky fly tape or homemade traps next to the bushes. Vacuum the visible butterflies early in the morning. Spray the leaves daily with infusion of dandelion greens, tobacco, garlic. In the absence of effect, apply Actellik, Confidor, Lepidocid.
Slugs	Stripes of shiny sticky coating on the skin and through holes in the fruit.	Surround bushes with barriers of sawdust, coarse sand, needles of conifers, wood ash, crushed eggshells. Build traps - containers dug into the ground with potato peels, cabbage leaves, sugar syrup, beer. Once every 2-3 days, spray the plants with a solution of ammonia, vinegar (3-5 ml / l), soda ash (5-7 g / l). Use specialized drugs - Barrier, Meta, Slug-eater.
Cucumber gnat	Females lay eggs in the cracks of the shoots or on the ground, the larvae eat the shoots and roots from the inside.	Spray the soil with Aktellik, Iskra-Bio solution. Treat plants with Chlorophos or Thiophos. To enhance the effect, you can add urea (10-15 g per 10 liters of water).

Photo gallery: what diseases and pests will have to be dealt with when growing Marinda cucumbers

Powdery mildew seems to be a harmless bloom that can be easily erased, but it is a dangerous disease.

Leaves infected with downy mildew quickly turn brown and dry

Cucumbers affected by white rot should not be eaten

The development of gray rot provokes high humidity in combination with a low temperature

Dents on cucumber fruits - clusters of fungal spores

Angular spotting is one of the most dangerous diseases characteristic of Marinda cucumbers.

You can only verify the presence of a root knot nematode by removing the plant from the soil.

Aphids are one of the omnivorous garden pests

Whitefly is easy to spot but hard to get rid of

Slugs leave a sticky mark on the plant

The main harm to cucumbers is caused by the larvae of the cucumber mosquito

When to harvest and where to store crops

The first fruits of Marinda ripen in 40-50 days after the emergence of seedlings from seeds, approximately at the end of June. 25–30 kg of cucumbers are removed from 1 m². You need to collect them every 2-3 days after reaching the normal length for the variety (8-10 cm). This has a positive effect on productivity and does not allow the fruits to outgrow and turn yellow.

The best time to harvest is early morning or evening after sunset. The cucumbers are cut with a sharp knife or scissors. The stalk must remain on the plant. Do not tug or twist the lashes.

Marinda cucumbers surprise with high yield

At a temperature of 5-8 ° C and high humidity (85-90%) in an open plastic bag covered with a damp cloth, cucumbers will lie for 15-20 days. You do not need to wash them before this. Move fruits as far away from other vegetables and fruits as possible - many of them release ethylene, which promotes the ripening of cucumbers. Those for home canning should be recycled as soon as possible.

Marinda is a versatile variety, cucumbers can be eaten fresh or homemade canned food

There are some tricks you can use to extend the shelf life of your cucumbers:

• fill a saucepan or bowl with 2–3 cm water, dip the cucumbers into it vertically, with the stalks down. The fluid should be changed every 2–3 days. Shelf life at room temperature - 10-12 days;
• thickly coat clean dry fruits with whipped egg white. Let the foam dry. Store at room temperature for 3-4 months;
• cut into large pieces, put in sterilized jars, sprinkle with salt. Roll up the lids. Soak for 2-3 hours before use. Banks should be removed to a cool, dark place. Shelf life - at least 3-4 months;
• place in the freezer. After defrosting, the appearance is not the most presentable, but the useful properties are preserved;
• pour a thin layer of acetic acid onto the bottom of the pan. Put a wire rack on top, spread the cucumbers on it so that they do not touch the liquid. Close container tightly, store in a cool, dark place for 2-3 months.

Gardeners reviews

Marinda is a popular cucumber variety suitable for both outdoor and greenhouse cultivation. Plants do not require special attention from the gardener; they are rarely affected by diseases and pests with proper care. The yield is consistently high, even if the summer is cool and rainy.