How To Make A Cesspool For A Private House With Your Own Hands

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Arrangement of the sewerage system of a country house: do-it-yourself cesspool

The work of the water supply system, bathroom and toilet of a country house requires the arrangement of a competent system for collecting and discharging wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewage system, it is enough to obtain a permit and make a tie-in into the communal system, then in the absence of the benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of waste disposal will have to be dealt with independently. There are currently options for addressing this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the easiest option is still a cesspool, a structure that has been tested by more than one generation of homeowners. A waste tank of this type is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Content

• 1 Design features

• 2 The choice of material for construction

  • 2.1 Brick
  • 2.2 From car tires
  • 2.3 From monolithic reinforced concrete
  • 2.4 From concrete rings
  • 2.5 From metal and plastic containers

• 3 Project for a summer cottage

  • 3.1 Size of the sewage system
  • 3.2 Choosing a site for construction
  • 3.3 Drawings. Photo gallery

• 4 Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

  • 4.1 Required tools and materials

  • 4.2 Brick construction for a private house

    4.2.1 Video: Secrets of Building a Brick Pit

  • 4.3 Sewer from reinforced concrete rings

    4.3.1 Video: Concrete Ring Construction

  • 4.4 Concrete pit made of monolithic reinforced concrete

    4.4.1 Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

  • 4.5 Do-it-yourself cesspool of tires from vehicles

    4.5.1 Video: a pit of tires in a country house

• 5 Decorating the installation sites of cesspools. Photo gallery

Design features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be attributed to filtration (absorbing) drain structures or sealed sewer tanks. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where it is decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of household wastewater from the site.

The costs of arranging a cesspool will pay off a hundredfold: this construction will give an urban level of comfort even at a distance from civilization

Many sources on the network claim that the choice of a particular design depends on the daily amount of waste discharged. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools with a volume of more than one cubic meter per day. We consider this statement to be true only partially. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewer truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m goes into the deepening of the sewer main. This leaves about 3 m of usable height. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5–6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration structure will increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out does not differ at all from servicing a sealed container. The only thing,what can restrain from the construction of absorbing waste pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of waste can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow building a pit of any type, then the filtration system will be beyond competition.

A feature of absorbent sewers is the presence of a drainage layer

For sewage pits without pumping, the presence of side walls and a floor slab is characteristic, while instead of a bottom, a crushed stone pillow is arranged in the structure. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the soil. Quite often the walls of absorbent structures are perforated, which increases the absorbency of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewer in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. In the upper part of the structure, a hatch is built through which the level of the drains is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering waste pits

The advantages of absorbing containers are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operating interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses is significantly increased. Nevertheless, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

• limited daily volume of wastewater;
• the impossibility of building a structure with a high level of groundwater;
• low degree of wastewater treatment;
• decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
• unpleasant odors around the structure.

Despite these disadvantages, leaky cesspools attract with their simplicity and the ability to use materials that often remain in the process of building a country house.

Factory plastic container is one of the most durable and simple ways of arranging a sewage system

Sealed sewer pits are devoid of the drawbacks of absorbing structures, but they require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the tanks are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for sealed structures, the norms are more democratic, although they require to think over the ways of the entrance and the arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The choice of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, capacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires are used. In a word, any suitable materials will do for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, you can build a pit in the traditional way - from bricks or reinforced concrete rings, concreting its bottom, and ensuring the walls are watertight.

Brick

Absorbing type brick waste pit

A brick-built waste tank is one of the most inexpensive and simple options, especially when you need to build a pit without pumping out. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps, which increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Not devoid of brick absorbent wells and disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative impact on the environment. In addition, brickwork quickly collapses under aggressive operating conditions, which leads to a short service life of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn truck tires provide a cheap and durable material for a waste tank without pumping out

It is possible to build a drainage system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house at minimal cost by using car tires as a building material for an absorbent cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and equip a filtering layer of rubble at its bottom. Mounted on top of one another, the tires form a durable structure that prevents the walls of the structure from crumbling.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of environmental pollution by wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid siltation and a decrease in the efficiency of the system.

From monolithic reinforced concrete

A concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures

A cesspool of this type is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, built by pouring concrete mixture into the installed crate. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow calling this design the best. Currently, such a construction method is being squeezed out by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

Of concrete rings

Concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls depending on the tightness requirements

The arrangement of a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partially attributed to inexpensive options. This is due to the fact that building materials will have to not only buy, but also hire equipment for loading and transportation to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy reinforced concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms (below we will tell you how, if you want and have free time, you can do with just a shovel). Nevertheless, it is this option that is the simplest and most durable way of arranging both absorbent-type cesspools and sealed structures. Currently, reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are produced, which are ideal for the construction of sewage collectors without pumping out.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel, you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the operability of the sewerage of a country house

The easiest way to make a cesspool is to bury a plastic or metal container of a suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to obtain both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first is the absence of a tank bottom and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filter cushion.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. In order for the operation of the sewer system to take place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and think over its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

The size of the sewage system

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), operating mode (regular or periodic use), type of soil and other factors.

To calculate the sewer capacity without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

• the volume of wastewater per family member when using a bathroom, toilet and washing machine is taken equal to 200 liters. Depending on the specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 liters;
• the calculation is based on the maximum daily consumption of wastewater;
• when determining the size of the cesspool, its volume must contain at least three times the daily amount of wastewater. That is, for a family of three, the container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, given that the depth should be read from the point of entry into it of the sewer main. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the effluent is purified by anaerobic bacteria and goes into the ground, the size of the absorption system will be sufficient for efficient operation.

For the construction of a storage sewage tank, they use the same averaged data on drainage as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping out in days. For example, if you plan to pump out a hole every two weeks, then for a family of three, its volume should be 150x3x14 = 6.3 cubic meters.

Most of the sewage trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-volume waste tank is required

Before making a final conclusion about the size of the sewage system, be sure to consult with utilities or individuals who pump out the sewage system. The fact is that the volume of most sewage trucks is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5–8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer collector with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to lay in an additional volume if the arrival of the service vehicle may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a place for construction

When choosing a place for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you get a rather long list. Nevertheless, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since failure to comply with them is fraught with both ineffective work and inconvenience in maintaining the sewage system, and administrative liability under the current Administrative Code.

Restrictions on the choice of location for the cesspool

1. It is not necessary to place a cesspool at the very bottom of the site in order to avoid flooding it with flood or rainwater.
2. It is forbidden to equip filtration structures if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.

3. The pit should be removed:

   from the foundations of buildings - at least 10 m;

   from fences - more than 1 m;

   from roads and trees - 4 m.

4. The distance from sources of drinking water should be:

   for clay soils - at least 20 m;

   for loams - at least 30 m;

   for sands and sandy loams - from 50 m.

5. When choosing a place for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of a cesspool machine entrance.

Note that most of the recommendations concern filtration type cesspools. As for sealed containers, then when choosing a place for their installation, one must be guided for the most part by common sense.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of the design of the sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up, indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of the sewer mains and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure so elementary that its design does not require "unnecessary body movements", we recommend making at least a simple sketch. Believe me, it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapting to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration wastewater treatment plant

Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings

Sewage pit drawing with overflow

Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

Having decided on the location of the drainage pit and having made the necessary calculations, they begin excavation work. If the sewage system is equipped with a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. It is dug by hand or using earthmoving equipment.

The excavator will save time and effort in preparing the pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earth-moving equipment.

For the construction of a sewer, it is also easiest to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on the site is impossible due to a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines interfere, etc. In this case, they use the old method that our grandfathers used. One of the rings is set in place, climbed inside and using a shovel with a short handle, they extract the soil, gradually removing the earth from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is level with the site, the next ring is installed and the soil continues to be removed until the desired depth is reached.

Required tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, before starting construction, prepare bricks, concrete rings or prefabricated reinforced concrete structures with a cover, tires from trucks, formwork boards, etc. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

• cement and sand for mortar preparation;
• fine rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
• metal bar or reinforcement for making a concrete cover;
• a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
• waterproofing;
• buckets and container for solution preparation;
• trowel, mason's hammer;
• bubble level, cord and plumb line;
• shovel and bayonet shovels.

If a large amount of concrete work is planned, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which can be borrowed from friends or rented.

Brick construction for a private house

For the construction of a sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burned-out material, which is considered a marriage in production. Silicate products are not recommended for use due to their low resistance in humid environments.

The order of work is as follows:

1. After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-cm layer of rubble or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The last option is performed with the arrangement of an armored belt that strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.

   

   Arrangement of the filtration layer

2. Wall masonry is performed. Depending on the project, the structure can be round, square or rectangular. The masonry of a sealed container is made continuous, with thorough filling of all joints with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping out, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.

   

   It looks like the masonry of an absorbing type sewer pit

3. Around the sewer pipeline, it is better to make a window with side and upper clearance between the pipe and the masonry from 5 to 10 cm. This solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.

4. The walls are laid out to a height below 20-30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the floor. To do this, a sealed crate with a hole for the hatch is installed on the pit, an armored belt is built and the slab is poured with concrete. The frame and manhole cover can be bought or made from scrap materials: pieces of metal corners, shaped pipes and steel sheet.

   

   Overlapping of a sewer tank with a hatch for pumping out drains

5. The slab is covered with a layer of soil and tamped.

   In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the slab to the zero mark of the site is increased to 50-60 cm. This allows you to fill the hole with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewer from freezing in winter.

Video: the secrets of building a brick pit

Reinforced concrete ring sewer

Today, manufacturers offer a wide range of rings. It must be understood that for a diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, lifting equipment will have to be used, therefore, the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands is products with a size of Ø1 × 0.89 m. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and a cover. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table of standard sizes of reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Workflow instructions:

1. By analogy with a brick structure, a filtering crushed stone layer is erected at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured, or a factory-made reinforced concrete base plate is installed (in the case of using an excavator). At the same time, they must control the correctness of the work at the building level.

2. 3-4 rings are placed on top of each other, reaching the upper level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.

   

   When installing rings of large diameter, lifting equipment is indispensable

3. With the help of a perforator, holes are made in the concrete wall for the sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.

4. If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a solution, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed with bitumen and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner surface is plastered.

   

   The design of imported rings will provide the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation

5. Install or make their own floor slab.

   

   When buying concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs

6. The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction from concrete rings

Monolithic reinforced concrete pit

A cesspool made of in-situ concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable structures. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow installing the batten on one side only and will reduce the consumption of concrete. Construction work is carried out in stages.

1. The bottom of the pit is leveled and tamped, after which a concrete screed is made with a thickness of at least 10 cm with internal reinforcement.

2. After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered with a waterproofing material. This will avoid soil crumbling during concrete work.

   

   Installing the armopoyas and pouring the base

3. At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical armored belt is mounted and the formwork is installed. It should be said that the wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be enough for a pit of any size.

   If there are not enough boards for the manufacture of the lathing, you can use the sliding type formwork.

   

   Movable (sliding formwork) construction

4. Install mortgages in order to get openings for the installation of sewer pipes.

5. When pouring concrete, be sure to bayonet or tamp it. This will remove air bubbles from the mix and increase structural strength.

   

   It is convenient to pour concrete into the formwork with an ordinary bucket

6. When the walls are ready, they begin to make the floor. This process has already been described above and does not require clarification.

   

   A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, but will require the use of double-sided formwork

7. Sewer pipes are brought into the inlets and ventilation is installed.

8. Cover the top plate with soil and install a hatch.

   

   Overlapping the cesspool. Pay attention to the outlet of the ventilation riser - for sealed drainage systems this is a necessity

Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

Do-it-yourself cesspool of tires from vehicles

For the manufacture of a waste pit, tires from heavy vehicles and buses are used. Given the width of the wheels, at least 8-10 tires are required. The pit can be dug both manually and with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the outer dimensions of the tires. This will facilitate their installation and provide an opportunity to increase the throughput of the absorbent system. In some sources, you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of the tires to increase the internal volume of the pit. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since this will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is not difficult to conclude about the priority of the area of contact between the liquid and the soil over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

In terms of the laying method, the tire version is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing between two adjacent tires 5-6 spacers, which can be used as a red brick. The slots between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purposes, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick debris, after which an overlap is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system.

Video: a pit of tires in a country house

Decorating the installation sites of cesspools. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil with which the overlap of the cesspool is covered, it is not difficult to hide it from the eyes. To do this, shrubs are planted over the sewer, they equip a flower bed or sow a lawn. Wooden and stone elements are used to decorate sewer hatches, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps you can get an interesting idea from our photo gallery or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden rack mounted on the pit cover

Lawn

Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles

Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn

Decoration with natural materials

Even a ventilation riser can be played gracefully and beautifully

Aerobatics - use the space and create a true masterpiece of landscape design

Installing a flowerpot of the original shape with flowers

Decorating with artificial stones

Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of cesspool designs allows you to build a sewage structure in full accordance with the needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary norms and rules, especially in the part that concerns the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what will go to our children and grandchildren.