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Garden Strawberry Variety Tsaritsa - Features, Care And Other Important Aspects + Photo
Garden Strawberry Variety Tsaritsa - Features, Care And Other Important Aspects + Photo

Video: Garden Strawberry Variety Tsaritsa - Features, Care And Other Important Aspects + Photo

Video: How To Choose A Strawberry Variety For The Garden 2022, December
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Garden strawberry Tsarina - mistress of berry beds

Garden strawberry
Garden strawberry

Large-fruited and high-yielding garden strawberries of the Tsaritsa variety will certainly take a priority place among the garden's berry crops and dessert dishes on the table. Anyone who tries the fragrant and healthy berries of garden strawberries will be happy to breed this undemanding plant to external conditions.

Content

  • 1 Differences between garden strawberries and strawberries

    1.1 Table: differences between strawberries and garden strawberries

  • 2 A brief history of the Tsaritsa variety
  • 3 Variety description

    • 3.1 Table: characteristics of berries
    • 3.2 Table: advantages and disadvantages of Tsaritsa garden strawberries
  • 4 Planting and care

    • 4.1 Site selection and soil preparation
    • 4.2 Boarding time
    • 4.3 Strawberry planting scheme

      4.3.1 Video: planting garden strawberries

    • 4.4 Watering
    • 4.5 Protection of ripening berries
    • 4.6 Application of dressings

      4.6.1 Table: Fertilization schedule

    • 4.7 Reproduction of garden strawberries

      • 4.7.1 Antennae
      • 4.7.2 Seeds
      • 4.7.3 Transplanting bushes
    • 4.8 Preparing the strawberry bed for the winter period

      4.8.1 Video: caring for strawberries

  • 5 Diseases of garden strawberry varieties Tsaritsa

    • 5.1 Table: main diseases and how to deal with them

      5.1.1 Possible diseases of the garden strawberry variety Tsaritsa in the photo

  • 6 Pests of the Tsaritsa variety

    • 6.1 Table: Insect pests of garden strawberries and how to control them

      6.1.1 Photo gallery: pests of garden strawberries of the Tsaritsa variety

  • 7 Harvesting

    7.1 Storage of crops

  • 8 Reviews of gardeners about the variety of garden strawberries Tsaritsa

Differences between garden strawberries and strawberries

Strawberries are a wild berry, but already in the 17th century the first "overseas plants" of cultivated wild berries came to Europe. Having taken root in European gardens, garden strawberries began to spread throughout the Eurasian continent.

Table: differences between strawberries and garden strawberries

Options Strawberry Garden strawberry
Plant characteristic A dioecious plant. To obtain a crop, an alternation of male and female plants is required according to the 5x1 scheme. Tall and powerful shrub with fleshy stems. Monoecious plant. Squat shrub with thin stems.
Characteristics of berries Small, uniform, rounded, often irregularly shaped berries. Medium to large berries of almost regular conical shape, slightly pointed and fibrous.
Berry taste and aroma Sweet. The aroma is pronounced. Sweet and sour. Faint but subtle aroma.
Yield Low. 2-4 times higher.
Growing conditions, general stability, lighting.
  1. High frost resistance.
  2. Demanding for regular watering.
  3. Ripening of berries stops with a lack of sunlight.
  1. Low frost resistance.
  2. Drought resistance.
  3. With a lack of sunlight, the berries become smaller.
Reproduction Natural reproduction occurs at the expense of male barren plants. The expansion of the plantation requires special measures. Rapid reproduction by whiskers, which will develop into full-fledged and fruitful plants next year.
Strawberries
Strawberries

Berries of strawberries are much smaller than those of garden strawberries

A brief history of the Tsaritsa variety

The variety was created on the basis of the Kokinsky reference point in the Bryansk region of the Russian Federation. Professor of the Bryansk Agricultural Academy, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences S. D. Aitzhanova, who created the Tsaritsa variety of garden strawberries, has almost 150 names of hybrid strawberries in her track record. The initial varieties for creating a hybrid were the garden strawberry varieties Venta and Red Gauntlet.

Description of the variety

In years with favorable weather conditions, with proper and regular care of the beds of garden strawberries, 500-600 g of juicy berries can be harvested from one bush. With age and under unfavorable conditions (high humidity, few sunny days), the yield decreases to 200–400 g per bush.

Garden strawberry Tsarina
Garden strawberry Tsarina

The Queen's berries have a deep red color and a shiny smooth surface.

A perennial squat plant forms a semi-sprawling bush with few leaves. Three-lobed leaves of dark green saturated color, shiny. The leaves are arranged on flexible thin petioles up to 20-25 cm long. Large flowers contain 5 rounded white petals. Flowers are collected in a scutellum inflorescence. The inflorescences are at the level of the lower leaves. Garden strawberries bloom in early June, and berries begin to form in the middle of the month.

Table: characteristics of berries

Options Characteristic
Weight (1 berry) Up to 45-50 g.
The form Conical, with a pointed tip and a wide base.
Colour Light red or dark red, shiny.
Pulp texture Dense, juicy.
Taste Sweet and sour, with a delicate aroma. Tasting score - 4.3 points out of 5.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of Tsaritsa garden strawberries

Benefits disadvantages
  • drought resistance;
  • resistance to fungal diseases;
  • high productivity;
  • long fruiting period (up to 5 years);
  • high transportability of the crop.
Average winter hardiness (up to –10–15 ° С).

Planting and leaving

Planting material is recommended to be purchased at breeding points or in gardening nurseries. Professional biotechnologists involved in strawberry propagation monitor the quality of seedlings. Seedlings with a closed root system (in plastic containers) are guaranteed to take root on the site.

Site selection and soil preparation

To book a strawberry bed, choose an even place, constantly illuminated by the sun and blown by the wind, a place. There should be no tall bushes or plants, buildings or a continuous row of trees at a distance of 5-10 meters from the strawberry bed.

Garden strawberry Tsarina prefers light and fertile loamy soils. Heavy and dense clay soils need to be drained. During the preparation and digging of the beds, coarse sand or fine gravel is introduced into the ground. Sandy and low-fertile soils are ennobled by introducing 2 buckets of rotted manure (mullein), 1 tablespoon of wood ash and 50 g of urea per 1 square meter for the autumn digging. m beds.

Boarding time

Purchased strawberry seedlings are planted in spring (April) or autumn (September - early October). Spring planting is preferable, as the strawberries take root faster and immediately grow, obeying the natural laws of development. This is facilitated by the lengthening of daylight hours and the activation of the activity of soil microorganisms.

Seedling of garden strawberries
Seedling of garden strawberries

A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves and well-spread roots about 10 cm in length

But autumn planting, even in regions with a favorable climate, is not always successful. In the southern regions, where warm nights are until mid-November, the plant can grow without having time to root well. In this case, it will not survive the winter. In the central and northern regions, the first frosts on the ground may come as early as mid - late September, and the strawberries will not have enough time to take root.

Strawberry planting scheme

  1. They break through a groove (hole) 10-15 cm deep and 30-40 cm wide.
  2. Seedling bushes are placed at a distance of 18–20 cm from each other.
  3. Lowering the seedlings into the hole, the root system is completely spread over the entire volume of the hole.
  4. When sprinkling a bush, they make sure that the central bud (at the base of the aerial part of the plant) rises above the ground. Otherwise, the strawberries can rot.
  5. Water each bush with 1-3 liters of water.
  6. Mulch wet soil with sawdust, straw or dry grass with a layer of 5-10 cm.
Planting garden strawberries
Planting garden strawberries

When planting, make sure that the growing point is not too deep or too raised above the soil

Video: planting garden strawberries

Watering

Garden strawberry Tsarina is a drought-resistant plant. In years with a normal climate, when periods of moderate heat alternate with periods of rain, or in areas with constantly high humidity, the plant does not need additional watering. Moistening the earth in such conditions will lead to waterlogging of the soil and the active spread of fungal infection.

In the central and southern regions, when the heat periods last more than 2–3 weeks, garden strawberries need abundant watering (30 liters of water per bush) at intervals of 7–10 days:

  • during the flowering of the plant;
  • during the setting and formation of berries;
  • during ripening and pouring of berries.

The indicated volumes of water are enough to saturate the soil and maintain the required moisture level in the area where the root system is located (up to 25 cm in depth).

The rest of the time, even in an arid climate, you can limit yourself to infrequent (once every 2-3 weeks) drip irrigation. Modern drip irrigation systems can cut water consumption in half - up to 10-15 liters per bush.

Drip irrigation of garden strawberries
Drip irrigation of garden strawberries

Drip irrigation supplies water directly to the plant's root system, preventing the soil from becoming too wet

Protection of ripening berries

Contact with damp soil during watering or during periods of rainy weather can significantly reduce the appearance and quality of the crop. The berries get dirty, the porous surface quickly absorbs dirt, as a result it will be difficult to wash it off even under running water. In addition, moist soil creates ideal conditions for the development and spread of fungal infections. There is a great risk that the berries will be spoiled by gray rot.

To preserve the presentation and the volume of the harvest, some gardeners completely cover the strawberry bed with dark dense agrofibre (agrotechnical, geotextile). Such a covering will simultaneously prevent the growth of weeds, mulch the ground after watering and warm the soil, which will help protect the strawberries from ticks.

Top dressing

For normal growth, development and fruiting of strawberries, regular and timely fertilization is necessary. Mineral dressings strengthen the defenses of the plant, increase its resistance to negative external factors (fungal infections, pests) and improve the quality of berries.

If the soil under the strawberry bed was pre-filled with fertilizers, the first two years (with normal development and fruiting of strawberries), fertilization is not necessary. From the third year of life, fertilizers are applied regularly.

Liquid feeding of garden strawberries
Liquid feeding of garden strawberries

If there is not enough fertilizer, strawberries begin to shrink, become less sweet, the leaves change from green to pale or red

Table: fertilization schedule

Fertilization period Required fertilizers and doses (per 1 sq. M)
In the spring with the beginning of the growth of strawberries Root feeding: 1 tbsp. a spoon of nitroammophoska for 10 liters of water or 6-10 g of dry ammonium nitrate scatter in the aisle.

Spraying: 0.5 tablespoons of urea in 2 liters of water.

End of May - beginning of June (with insufficient growth of strawberries) Root feeding: 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water. Consumption - 0.5-1 l per plant.
Early June (during the setting and forming of berries) Root dressing: potassium nitrate (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or 2 tablespoons of wood ash, insist for a day in 1 liter of water (under one bush).
Mid - end of September Root dressing: for 10 liters of water, 1 glass of wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska, 30 g of potassium sulfate.

Cover the bushes with briquettes of rotted manure or compost.

Reproduction of garden strawberries

Mustache

The mustache propagation method is suitable for those who are confident in the health and vitality of their plants.

  1. The branches (whiskers) on which new plants will develop can only be released by a strong and well-formed annual or biennial plant.
  2. The rooted section of the appendix is ​​watered, the earth is loosened around it and mulched.
  3. After the formation of 3-4 rosettes of leaves and a central bud, cut the mustache connecting the young plant with the mother bush.
  4. A young plant is planted in a new place in the garden.
  5. The old mustache either dries out or is completely cut off with garden shears.
Reproduction of garden strawberries with a mustache
Reproduction of garden strawberries with a mustache

Growing garden strawberry seedlings from the whiskers of selected mother plants allows you to preserve the best qualities of the variety and yield

Seeds

Breeding large-fruited garden strawberries of the Tsaritsa variety using seeds is ineffective and impractical. In the offspring, valuable qualities of parent plants are split and lost (large-fruited, taste, drought resistance).

Transplanting bushes

The method of replanting bushes will appeal to gardeners who want to preserve, rejuvenate and propagate the most productive, strong and resistant plants.

  1. Choose a perennial strawberry bush.
  2. Carefully divide the plant together with the root system into several parts.
  3. Each part should contain several rosettes of leaves and a central bud located at the roots.
  4. Parts of the plant are transplanted into separate holes.
  5. Water the seedlings (0.4-0.5 liters of water under one bush).
  6. Mulch moist soil with dry grass or dry soil.

Preparing a strawberry bed for the winter period

In steppe regions or in regions with little snowy winters, strawberry plantations need additional protection in winter. In late October - early November, strawberry beds are covered with spruce branches, straw, sawdust, reeds, wrapping paper or newspapers with a layer of 10-15 cm. If necessary, protective materials are fixed along the edges of the beds.

Strawberry shelter for the winter
Strawberry shelter for the winter

Before sheltering the strawberries for the winter, it is recommended to remove old leaves and cut off all antennae

Briquettes of manure, peat or compost can be placed under protective materials. These organic materials will also protect the plant during cold weather, while nourishing its root system. It is necessary to use only rotted manure or aged peat, since fresh organic matter can burn strawberries.

Video: caring for strawberries

Diseases of garden strawberry varieties Tsaritsa

The hybrid has a complex resistance to fungal diseases affecting the plants of this culture. Until late autumn, strawberry beds delight the owners with bright greens of large leaves, devoid of spots and signs of infection with gray rot.

Table: main diseases and how to deal with them

Disease Description of the disease Signs of damage in a plant Processing methods Processing period and regularity Preventive measures
Powdery mildew Fungal disease. Active reproduction and infection of the bush begins after the onset of warm summer days. Spread by wind, precipitation, or carried around the garden when watering. Mushroom mycelium feeds on plant juices, weakening its winter hardiness, reducing the quality of the crop. The yield may be reduced by 50%. Strawberry infection begins from the lower leaves - a white loose bloom appears on them. Affected leaves curl at the edges. By the end of the summer season, the back of the leaves takes on a bronze tint. Infected fruits lose their elasticity, become lethargic, acquire a pronounced smell of dampness. Spraying the bushes with Bayleton fungicide (10 g per 10 l of water). Consumption - 100 g per 1 sq. m.

During the growing season. Single treatment 3-5 days after signs of infection appear. No more than four sprays per season are allowed.

  • during autumn work in the garden, it is necessary to clear the strawberry bed of leaves and weeds, slightly loosen the soil;
  • the right choice of place to create a garden;
  • timely fertilization.
Spraying with Skor (2 ml per 10 l of water; consumption - 0.8–1 l per plant) or

Topaz (2 ml per 10 l of water; consumption - 0.8–1 l per plant).

With an interval of 10-12 days, two treatments are carried out before flowering strawberries and two - after flowering, but no later than 20 days before picking berries.
Spraying:

  1. Dilute 4 g of soda and 4 g of laundry soap in 1 liter of water. Consumption - 1 liter per bush.
  2. Add ½ bucket of weeds with boiling water to 10 liters, stir and leave for 2–4 days, drain. Consumption - 1 liter per one bush.
During the growing season. Carry out processing in the evening in calm dry weather.

Carry out two treatments with an interval of 10-12 days, but no later than 20 days before harvest.

Gray rot Fungal disease. Infection occurs when the plant is damaged during caring for it (weeding, harvesting), small dry spores can be spread by wind, precipitation or watering. The fungus is especially active in humid climates. On the leaves, rapidly growing brown spots appear and spreading to the shoots; on the fruits, pads of a gray fluffy bloom are formed. Spraying with Skor (4 ml per 10 l of water). Consumption - 0.8-1 l per one bush.

With an interval of 10–12 days, two treatments are carried out before flowering and two after flowering, but no later than 20 days before picking berries and no more than 4 treatments per season.

  • take a sunny, well-ventilated place under the strawberry bed;
  • it is necessary to dosed nitrogenous fertilizers that weaken the cell walls;
  • with a sharp knife, you need to cut off the affected shoots near the ground;
  • you should carefully care for the strawberries, be more careful when harvesting.
Spraying with Bayleton (10 g per 10 l of water). Consumption - 100 g per 1 sq. m. After the appearance of signs of the disease (after 3-5 days), a single treatment of plants is carried out.
White leaf spot A fungal disease that weakens the plant and makes it an easy target for infection with other fungal diseases. Spores overwinter near the ground, in fallen leaves and debris. Numerous spots of various sizes and shapes appear on the leaves, black or brown-brown in color with a white center. Spraying with Skor (5 ml per 10 l of water). The total consumption is 0.8–1 liters per bush. Carry out four treatments of strawberries per season: process twice before flowering and twice after flowering, maintaining intervals of 10-12 days.

During autumn work in the garden, it is necessary to completely clear the bed of fallen leaves, weeds and other plant debris, and loosen the soil on the strawberry bed.

Possible diseases of the garden strawberry variety Tsaritsa in the photo

Gray rot
Gray rot

Most of all, the disease of gray rot is exposed to thickened plantings, which are placed in poorly ventilated, low places

Powdery mildew
Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew causes general oppression and weakening of plants, while the yield is sharply reduced and the period of fruiting is shortened

White leaf spot
White leaf spot

White leaf spot affects leaves, petioles, stalks and berries

Pests of the Tsaritsa variety

Unverified planting material purchased from friends or individuals may contain eggs or pupae of harmful insects.

Table: insect pests of garden strawberries and how to control them

Pest Insect description Signs of damage in a plant Control measures (methods, preparations) Processing period Preventive measures
Strawberry mite The insect is pale yellow, 0.25 mm long. Females lay eggs in early spring at a temperature of + 13 ° C. During the summer season, 4–5 generations of ticks appear. The larvae overwinter in the surface layers of the soil. The pest is especially active in wet weather, it is afraid of sunlight. It is brought into the garden together with low-quality seedlings. Yellowing, wilting, drying out and dropping of leaves during the growing season. Drying of berries. The back of the leaves turns white. Dip the seedling bushes in hot water for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with cool water.

After acquiring seedlings, immediately before planting in the ground.

  1. Purchase of quality and proven planting material in specialized centers or nurseries.
  2. The choice of a sunny, well-heated and constantly ventilated site for laying a strawberry bed.
  3. Dosed watering and timely application of mineral fertilizers.
  4. Prevention of waterlogging of the soil.
  5. Complete cleaning of the beds from fallen leaves and weeds in autumn, loosening the earth.
  6. Compliance with crop rotation. It is advisable to change the area for the strawberry bed every four years.
Warm up the soil in the garden with a gas burner (all leaves must be cut off before heating).

After harvesting strawberries.

Sprinkle finely chopped onion or garlic with water. 200 g of raw materials per 10 liters of water. Insist 8 hours, drain. Consumption - 1-2 liters per one bush. After processing, cover with foil for 2 hours and leave to warm up.

If necessary during the growing season and mass destruction of strawberry plantations.

Spraying with colloidal sulfur (50 g per 10 l of water). Consumption - 1-2 liters per 10 sq. m.

In early spring, after the appearance of the first leaves (temperatures above + 10 ° С.

Spraying with Neoron acaricide (5 ml per 5 l of water). Consumption - 1 liter per 10 sq. m. 10 days before the flowering of strawberries.
Strawberry nematode A transparent white worm up to 1 mm long that lives and reproduces in plant tissues. During the season, it gives several generations. It is brought to the site along with low-quality seedlings. It hibernates in plant tissues or on the roots of culled seedlings. It can spread to and parasitize weeds. Curliness and spring dwarfism of the plant, slowing down of growth and development of leaves, change of green color of the above-ground part of garden strawberries to red-brown, thinning and pale foliage, weight loss and deterioration of the quality of berries. Soak the seedlings for 10-15 minutes in hot water (temperature + 40-45 degrees), then rinse with cold water.

After purchasing the planting material, just before planting.

  1. Purchase of planting material only in orchard and berry nurseries.
  2. Compliance with crop rotation. Change the place for the strawberry bed every four years.
  3. Culling plants, as well as leaves and weeds from strawberry beds should be destroyed in a timely manner.
  4. The area where the infected bushes grew is sprayed with an aqueous solution of 1% nitrafen or 5% ferrous sulfate (consumption - 1-2 liters per 10 square meters. M).
Regular destruction of weeds in the beds, cutting with a sharp knife and destruction of the affected parts of the plant, uprooting of diseased bushes.

With a total defeat of the bushes, you can try to cut off all the leaves in the garden, cover it with a film and warm it up in the sun.

During the summer season.
Strawberry raspberry weevil Gray-black beetle up to 3 mm long with a long proboscis. In spring, the female lays about 50 eggs in buds, in June-July larvae appear, wintering in fallen leaves and in the surface layers of the earth. Gnawed pedicels, buds literally hang on a thin green vein, gnawed leaves in June-July. Spraying with an aqueous solution of wood ash (3 kg of ash per 10 liters of water, add 40 g of coarsely grated laundry soap, leave for 10-12 days). Consumption - 1 liter per one bush. During the growing season as needed. Carry out processing in the evening in calm dry weather. Clearing strawberry beds in autumn from fallen leaves and weeds, loosening the soil.

Photo gallery: pests of garden strawberries of the Tsaritsa variety

Bush damaged by strawberry nematode
Bush damaged by strawberry nematode

Plants damaged by a nematode become squat, dwarf, their buds and peduncles thicken, shorten, become powerful, fleshy

A bush damaged by a strawberry mite
A bush damaged by a strawberry mite

Leaves damaged by a strawberry mite wrinkle, turn yellow and die off

Strawberry raspberry weevil
Strawberry raspberry weevil

The raspberry-strawberry weevil inflicts maximum harm by destroying flower buds

Harvesting

This variety is mid-season - already at the end of June you can enjoy the first berries. Garden strawberries are usually harvested in the early morning after the dew has dried. The berries are picked together with the sepal and stalk. For collection, use a wooden basket or a plastic tray with a capacity of up to 2 kg. All ripe berries are plucked, because overripe strawberries quickly become infected with gray rot and spread the disease to unripe berries.

Garden strawberries of the Tsaritsa variety do not ripen at the same time. Fresh berries can be enjoyed for 20-25 days. During this time, 50-60 berries ripen on one young and healthy bush.

Garden strawberry Tsarina
Garden strawberry Tsarina

Productivity from 1 sq. m is almost 1 kg

Harvest storage

Freshly picked garden strawberries can be stored in the refrigerator at 0-2 ° C for 5 days, but their quality will deteriorate - like most berries, it is a perishable product. It is better to use fresh garden strawberries immediately on the farm (use fresh, make juice or homemade preparations) or sell (dense berries are transported in refrigerators under specially created temperature conditions).

Reviews of gardeners about the variety of garden strawberries Tsaritsa

Anyuta

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889

Yulia26

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889

Selena

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889&page=2

Oleg Saveiko

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889&page=2

Evgeniya Yurievna

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889&page=2

Victor IS

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889&page=3

Petrov Vladimir

http://forum.vinograd.info/showthread.php?t=2889&page=5

An unpretentious plant of garden strawberries of the Tsaritsa variety will pamper your family and guests with juicy, fragrant berries for a month. A mid-season hybrid strawberry variety adapted to the conditions of the western and central regions of the country.

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