How To Fix An Electric Kettle: How To Seal It, How To Repair It, If It Does Not Turn On, Etc. + Photos And Videos

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

How to fix an electric kettle at home

The electric kettle was invented in 1900 by the American engineer Whitcomb, when electricity was still far from everywhere. Contemporaries did not take the invention seriously, considering it an eccentricity. However, over 100 years, the electric kettle has turned from eccentricity into an irreplaceable attribute of any kitchen. Even if the house has gas, they still use the electric kettle. It boils water much faster, there is no need to be on duty around it, waiting for the moment when it needs to be turned off. In terms of energy savings, it also looks much more progressive than its "copper" ancestor. Not a single kilocalorie created by a heating device is wasted, which cannot be said about a gas burner, which simultaneously with boiling water heats the surrounding air by 40%. But sometimes it becomes necessary to repair this miracle of technology.

Content

• 1 The device and principle of operation of the electric kettle

  1.1 Types of cases in the photo

• 2 With what breakdowns can the kettle be returned to the seller
• 3 Diagnosis of electrical device malfunctions

• 4 How to fix an electric kettle with your own hands: step by step instructions

  • 4.1 If leaks

    4.1.1 How to fix a leak and clean the gasket at home: video

  • 4.2 Kogad does not turn off when boiling

  • 4.3 Disconnects ahead of time

    4.3.1 How to replace thermal paste (video)

  • 4.4 Does not turn on
  • 4.5 Does not heat the water, although the light is on

  • 4.6 The kettle button is not fixed

    4.6.1 Stages of repair in the photo

  • 4.7 Teapot spiral bursts when heated

• 5 Replacing the disc and coil heater

  • 5.1 Step-by-step instructions for replacing the heating element: video
  • 5.2 Repairing a Disc Heater Device (video)
• 6 What to connect the electric kettle directly to the network

The device and principle of operation of the electric kettle

The schematic diagram of an electric kettle is quite simple. It is a sealed container, inside which a heating device is mounted - a heating element (thermal electric heater). Inside the heating element there is a tungsten coil, which heats up when it is connected to the mains.

For ease of use, the kettle is equipped with:

• manual switch button located on the body
• automatic power switch

With the help of the manual button, the kettle is started up, with the help of the automatic switch, its operation is stopped (although it is possible to do this also manually).

Example of a device with a spiral heating element

The power button is a conventional toggle switch that switches the contact pair from one mode to another.

The operation of the circuit breaker is to de-energize the device when the water reaches the boiling point. This is achieved by installing a thermocouple on the water vapor path, which drives the rod that controls the power supply from the network. The thermostat is a bimetallic plate that, when heated in a certain way, changes its geometric shape.

Most modern electric kettles are equipped with additional "conveniences" - illumination of the power button (additional signaling of the device operation), illumination of water inside the flask (scale is clearly visible, allows it to be removed in a timely manner). Some have timers, thanks to which you can regulate the degree of heating the water without bringing it to a boil. And also set the time when the kettle is turned on.

The body of an electric kettle is made of various materials: glass, plastic, metal. There are exotic models in which the flask is made of rock crystal and the heating disc is silver.

Types of cases in the photo

Plastic housing

Glass body

Metal case

Glass is used thin-walled, of increased strength and heat resistance. However, testing it for strength and dropping it on the floor is not recommended.

Plastic cases are made of food grade plastic, the vast majority of inexpensive teapots are made of plastic. However, this material has a number of drawbacks that negatively affect its reputation. For example, the ability to emit unpleasant odors during heating or melt if the thermostat suddenly fails.

The most practical are electric kettles, which are made of metal. As practice has shown, it is metal cases that best stand the test of time.

There are also combination models where plastic, glass and metal are combined.

Depending on the design features, breakdowns of electric kettles can be divided into two unequal segments

In the first, the most numerous, there will be problems in the electrical part of this popular household appliance.

In the second, relatively small, mechanical damage will remain, which occurs mostly through negligence or during improper operation.

The mechanics of the kettle are simple, in fact, they consist of a lid that is fixed on the upper part of the body and a locking mechanism that keeps the lid closed.

Sometimes the lid is capricious and does not want to properly close or open. Then you need to treat it with attention - examine it, identify the cause of this behavior and eliminate it.

As a rule, the involvement of specialists in such a situation is not required. You can solve the problem yourself.

The situation is completely different with the electric part of the kettle. After all, it is she who does all the main work, and the main load lies on the heating element and the thermostat.

The heating device is of two types - disk and spiral. The first is mounted in the bottom of the flask with water, the second is fixed to one of the walls of the body. Judging by the supply of electric kettles on store shelves, the disk heating element is gradually replacing the spiral one. This is due to the higher efficiency of disc heating elements, as well as to the advantages in operation.

For example, it is very difficult to wash and descale the inside of a kettle equipped with a spiral heater.

The thermostat, in principle, is an eternal part, nothing can break in it, since it is a plate pressed from two different metals. However, sometimes it fails. More precisely, the mechanical drive breaks down, by means of which it controls the kettle off button.

Thermostat block

What breakdowns can the kettle be returned to the seller

If the purchased product does not correspond to the declared quality or in the process of operation there are malfunctions in its mechanisms, according to the Law on the Protection of Consumer Rights, the product can be returned to the seller and the money returned. For this, certain conditions must be met.

• - the kettle was not in use, the appearance, factory seals and labels, as well as the presentation remained intact
• - the presence of a sales receipt or other document proving the purchase (in the absence of such documents, it is possible to refer to the testimony of witnesses)
• - on the day of circulation, there is no similar product on sale for replacement
• - the satisfaction of the claim for the return of money must occur no later than 10 days from the date of presentation
• - You must have a civil passport with you to draw up an act of returning the kettle.

If the purchased kettle is under warranty, its repair can be carried out only in the warranty workshops, the list of which is given in the warranty card. Self-disassembly of the device and an attempt to eliminate the malfunction, entails the termination of the manufacturer's warranty obligations.

A simple conclusion follows from this. It's wiser to use the warranty than trying to fix the kettle yourself. It is not worth hoping that the workshop will not "notice" the autopsy marks. A professional who is engaged in the repair of household appliances every day and for many years, just one glance is enough to determine whether the kettle was disassembled or not. In addition, there are various tricks on the part of the manufacturer, which are aimed at avoiding such situations. They are not visible to the eye, but clear enough to use them to determine (and prove) the fact of unauthorized disassembly.

All defective goods are subject to return or exchange, at the request of the buyer. The only exception can be complex technical goods that are subject to examination for factory or warehouse defects. The kettle, of course, does not fall into this category.

If any disputes arise, the seller is obliged to conduct an expert examination of the goods at his own expense. The buyer has the right to be present during the examination. If, as a result of the survey, it is proved that the marriage of the kettle (or other product) was formed through the fault of the buyer, then he will be obliged to reimburse all the costs of the examination.

Diagnosis of electrical device malfunctions

In order to diagnose the electric circuit of the kettle, you must use a multimeter (or tester).

Inspection, as a rule, starts from the place where the power cable is plugged into the outlet and ends at the thermostat. In order to consistently take measurements at all sections of the chain, it is necessary to disassemble the kettle body.

But first you need to make sure that the power cord and the outlet to which it is connected are working. And also check the presence of voltage on the kettle stand, through which the current is transmitted to the heating element.

If no open circuit is detected, unscrew the three screws at the bottom of the kettle and remove the protective cover. Often, in addition to screws, the cover is additionally secured with plastic latches, like on a mobile phone. Therefore, it is advisable to have a thin and flat screwdriver in order to disengage the plastic locks. Sometimes the screws are closed on top with decorative plugs, which must be carefully removed with a thin screwdriver.

Removing the bottom cover

Disassembling the handle

If the screws do not unscrew from the plastic case, the most effective way to solve this problem is to touch them with a heated soldering iron. The plastic will soften slightly and loosen the jammed screw.

After removing the cover, a visual inspection of the disk heater, as well as the contacts that supply electric current to it, is carried out. The contact surface must not be melted or covered with metal scales. A properly working contact looks monotonous, without purple spots, which indicate its overheating.

If there are no obvious signs of damage to the circuit, the contact group and the heating device are tested with a multimeter. The resistance of a serviceable heating element is approximately 30–40 ohms. Readings taken from a damaged heater (no resistance, the tester shows an “infinity” symbol) will indicate an open circuit. In this case, it must be replaced.

Checking Heater Operation

It is also worth checking the operation of the resistance coupled to the LEDs. Their working range is 13-15 ohms. If the ohmmeter gives different readings, the resistor should be replaced.

For further testing of the kettle's power supply circuit, you need to dismantle the handle, which contains the temperature sensor (or temperature sensors), the manual start button and the automatic shutdown unit.

The handle cover is secured either with screws or plastic latches. Vapors from boiling water constantly circulate inside the handle, and this creates favorable conditions for metal corrosion.

After a thorough inspection, all elements are additionally tested with a multimeter. The terminals are cleaned with sandpaper or a file. The wire break is restored.

Damaged parts are usually simply replaced. There is a large assortment of spare parts for electric kettles on sale, their prices are completely affordable. The main thing is to accurately observe their compliance with the model of the repaired apparatus.

How to fix an electric kettle with your own hands: step by step instructions

Let's consider solutions to the following problems, which are most often encountered in practice.

If leaks

There are two possible reasons. One - there was a mechanical damage to the case. Second, the rubber gasket between the body and the heating element worked. In the first case, the kettle's bulb is repaired, if possible. In the second, the gasket changes.

Sometimes, to eliminate the leak, it is enough to tighten the screws that secure the coil heater to seal the rubber gasket. But if not, then the spiral is disconnected, the old gasket is removed and a new one is installed.

To replace it is necessary to disconnect the heating element

Pay attention to the condition of the old gasket. If the reason for its failure is a thick layer of scale, then henceforth it is necessary to more often clean the inner space of the container from the formation of water stone. Otherwise, the same fate awaits the new gum.

The most famous way to descale your kettle is citric acid. A bag of citric acid is poured onto half a liter of water and boiled with the lid open. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated several times, alternating with pauses for the teapot to cool down (about half an hour).

But there are other ways too. Instead of citric acid, you can use vinegar (200 grams per 100 grams of water), as well as Coca-Cola and even potato peelings.

You should not get carried away with synthetic detergents. If even milligrams of these substances remain on the walls of the kettle, then once inside the body, they will harm the well-being and health in general.

In kettles with disc heaters, the leak is eliminated in the same way.

If the model of the teapot is collapsible (which is not always the case), as a means of preventing leaks, you can use the cleaning of the silicone gasket from scale. Having disconnected the case from the heater, you can remove the gasket and rinse it with plain clean water, clean it with a soft brush from fine sand, which, in fact, breaks the tightness. It is also recommended to thoroughly clean the heater itself, as well as the inner surface of the kettle body. After that, the gasket is installed in its place and the device is assembled to its original state.

A clean and elastic pad can last a long time if it is properly monitored and fossils are not allowed on the surface.

How to fix a leak and clean a gasket at home: video

Kogad does not turn off when boiling

Failure of the thermostat. Disassemble the housing handle and replace the regulator. It makes no sense to repair such parts, because it will take a lot of time, and how long it will last as a result is not known.

Not repaired at home

When disassembling, you need to inspect the drive rod of the thermostat, which sometimes breaks. And a spring supporting a bimetallic thermocouple. If the point is in them, then you can temporarily replace them from the material at hand.

Disconnects ahead of time

A similar situation is a malfunction of the thermostat. The cover of the kettle handle is removed, the damaged thermostat is removed. A new one is installed in its place, the circuit contacts are connected. Before final assembly, it is tested again with a multimeter.

One of the reasons for the malfunction of the thermostat may be premature drying of the thermal paste at the point of contact of the temperature sensor with the heater. This can be determined visually and tactilely. If the thermal paste has become dry, brittle, has lost its elasticity, then it's time to change it. This usually happens no earlier than after 2 years of operation. Replacing thermal paste is not a complicated procedure (remove the old one with a napkin and apply a new one). It serves to improve thermal conductivity and eliminate air space between the heating disc of the kettle and the temperature sensor. You can buy it in stores selling computer accessories.

How to replace thermal paste (video)

Does not turn on

Consistently, as described above, diagnose the electrical circuit of the entire apparatus. If a break in the power supply is detected, replace the damaged part, clean the terminals with emery.

Does not heat the water, although the light is on

The most likely is the failure of the electric heating device. Or oxidation of the contacts responsible for its nutrition. To solve the problem, it is necessary to remove the lower cover of the kettle, carry out diagnostics and, based on the results, eliminate the cause of the malfunction.

The kettle button is not fixed

Quite a common phenomenon. Usually due to the fact that during long-term operation, the steel spring that fixes the switch position bursts or falls out of the seat. In order to repair the button, you have to first remove the handle cover and gain access to the button mechanism. Then, the button housing assembly is detached. If the spring is intact and just needs to be inserted into the socket, then replacement may not be needed. Perhaps, to restore performance, it will be enough to slightly stretch it in order to restore its former elasticity.

Repair stages in the photo

Removing the protective cover

Dismantled after removing the handle cover

Spring holding the button

Teapot spiral bursts when heated

A clear sign that the level of scale on the spiral is approaching a critical state. If the formation of water stone is allowed to flow, it is highly likely that the spiral will quickly fail and will have to be replaced.

As soon as the first signs of crackling appear, even the smallest ones, it is urgent to take measures to remove scale on the walls of the kettle and, especially, on the heating element.

Replacing the disc and coil heater

If the diagnostics of the kettle showed that the heating element is out of order, it must be replaced, since it cannot be repaired.

The coil heater is usually held in the housing by 3 screws that need to be unscrewed. Further, the spiral is freed from the terminals connected to it and carefully removed from the case. Together with the heater, it is advisable to change the rubber gasket, which prevents water from flowing out of the flask. Assembly is carried out upside-down.

Fastened with ordinary screws through a rubber gasket

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the heating element: video

The situation is not so simple with kettles equipped with disc heaters. Disassembly and replacement of the heating element in such devices is not provided by the manufacturer. The heater disk itself is soldered into the housing and is an indivisible whole with it. In addition, even if you remove it from the kettle, it is practically impossible to buy a replacement for it. They are not available for sale.

Repairing a Disc Heater Device (video)

Such kettles require more careful personal care. Because in the event of a heater breakdown, it has one way - to a landfill or, at best, to spare parts. It is especially necessary to carefully monitor the formation of scale and clean it in a timely manner.

To do this, you should follow simple rules.

do not pour water out of the kettle as soon as it boils

The heater disk is hotter than the boiling point of water. If water is poured out immediately, microcracks from overheating may form on the disc. Over time, this leads to the destruction of the heating element material.

monitor the formation of scale

It is scale, like stalactites, that grows inside the teapot and destroys the silicone gasket between the teapot body and the heater, and breaks the tightness of their connection.

use purified water

The cause of scale formation is the high salt content in the water. If the water is filtered and cleaned, there will be much less scale formation.

What to connect an electric kettle directly to the network

There are situations when there is no time to repair or replace a particular part. As a temporary measure, you can apply the connection of the kettle to the network directly. To do this, open the bottom cover of the case and connect the power cord directly to the heater terminals. Thus, the kettle will operate completely manually, bypassing all circuit breakers.

The power cord connects directly to the heating element

By plugging it into the socket, it will start, and by turning it off, it will stop working. It is necessary to be not far from such a device in order to disconnect it in time when the water boils.

Additional video on the topic:

During assembly, disassembly and testing of the kettle, personal safety measures must be observed. The mains supply must be disconnected. The flask must be dry, without water residues.