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Erection Of The Walls Of A Bath From A Bar, Step-by-step Recommendations With Video
Erection Of The Walls Of A Bath From A Bar, Step-by-step Recommendations With Video

We build our bath ourselves: how to properly build a bath building from a bar

general view of the structure of the walls of a bath from a bar
general view of the structure of the walls of a bath from a bar

So, you have already erected the foundation for your bath, and you have chosen timber as the material for the walls. An excellent option, quite durable, environmentally friendly and easy to use! If you are new to construction, then timber is the best choice.

Nevertheless, even such a simple and versatile material requires some knowledge and skills that are necessary when building walls. Especially for such a structure as a bathhouse, for the arrangement of which certain additional actions are needed.

Before you start building a bath from a material such as a bar, you should calculate the correct size of lumber for the walls, find out how to connect the bars and splicate them along the length, choose a heater for laying between the crowns, and much more. Let's consider these questions in sequence.


  • 1 Initial information about the construction of a bathhouse
  • 2 Laying the first crown of a log house
  • 3 Choosing a bar for the first crown correctly
  • 4 Ways of interlocking beams in a log house
  • 5 Insulation used for laying between the crowns
  • 6 Dowel for timber
  • 7 Related Videos
  • 8 Completion of work on the construction of walls from a bar

Initial information on the construction of a bathhouse

Building a bath, especially walls for it, can be quite costly. The modern construction market offers a huge range of materials, both traditional and modern, which are widely used in the construction of buildings for a specific purpose. But wood for a bath is the most popular commodity for many reasons. This is a long tradition in construction, and widespread, relatively low price, environmental friendliness and ease of use.

The timber in this case is a much simpler material to work with, moreover, it does not require additional processing, if you buy it, and do not make it yourself.

profiled timber for bath walls
profiled timber for bath walls

In order not to incur additional costs for insulation for the walls, it is worth taking a bar with a section of 150 x 150 mm. This thickness of wood walls is optimal, and will allow you to use the bath all year round. In order for the connection between the beams to be more dense, and the appearance of the finished wall to be aesthetic and pleasant, each beam must be properly trimmed.

One of the main positive qualities of the timber is that the walls of this material do not require additional external finishing; they look self-sufficient, you just need to carefully process the bars. If you plan to decorate the outer sides of the walls, then it will be enough to plan the material only from the side oriented towards the inner space of the bath room.

The first step in the construction of a bath from a bar is to install a strapping ring on a prepared foundation. The optimal choice of timber for the strapping crown is hard ash, oak and larch. Be sure to treat the building material with antiseptic agents.

Laying the first crown of a log house

The quality and stability of the entire log-house of a bath from a bar depends on how well you will lay the first crown. And you should prepare for this work thoroughly, calculating each step in advance.

Before laying the first, initial strapping crown, a layer of waterproofing should be laid on top of the bath foundation. Before that, check the surface of the foundation with a level: it must be exactly horizontal. In case of a difference of more than 1 centimeter, level it with a concrete solution.

After that, place the roofing material evenly in several layers, smeared with each other with mastic. Experts call the following laying technology optimal: 2 layers of roofing material, a laying board, another layer of roofing material. Connect the bars of the first crown to each other in half a tree, and in order to prevent possible later shifts of the bars, arrange a secret spike.

the first crown of a log house above the foundation
the first crown of a log house above the foundation

Then, using steel brackets, fasten the cap. The staples are hammered from the outside of the timber, and after the construction of the bathhouse is completed, they can be removed.

The next step is to insulate the cap. For this, a layer of flax fiber laid on top of the timber is optimal. The next crown is laid on the layer of insulation, and so on, alternating between the timber and thermal insulation. This will help to avoid blow-through in possible crevices, as well as play an important role in the subsequent hydro and vapor barrier of the bath from the inside.

Choosing a bar for the first crown correctly

The timber should be selected and prepared in advance so as not to be distracted by trifles and shortcomings during the construction process. To install the first crown, you should choose a high-quality material, since the integrity of the structure during operation depends on it:

  • the timber should be perfectly flat;
  • there should be no knots and chips on the surface;
  • the main condition is the maximum density of the rings of the bar; for the manufacture of such material, the middle part of the tree is taken;
  • a bar with traces of blue on the surface of the wood is categorically unacceptable not only for the first crown, but also for the entire log house.

The finished timber produced at the factory is usually already processed and is completely ready for use, but additional processing will not hurt, especially for the construction of a bath. Thoroughly coat the bar with mastic, which is pre-mixed with working off. An impregnation based on such a composition is perfectly absorbed into the wood. The ends of the timber do not need to be processed, they must remain bare and release moisture from themselves when the structure dries and shrinks.

timber wall
timber wall

It depends on how carefully you process the timber, how long the lower crown will serve with faith and truth, and therefore all the walls of your bath.

Methods of locking joints of beams in a log house

There are several ways to connect the timber in the walls of the bath, which will avoid the impact of wind and cold temperature on the room from the outside. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Method one: butt joint. With it, the bars are attached with their ends to each other, while each connecting seam from above is overlapped by the next. In order for the butt joint to be reliable and not to lose its qualities over time, watch the ends of the beams: they must be absolutely even. The cut makes an angle of 90 degrees.

However, a butt joint, even a very tight one, does not exclude rather high heat losses through such bath corners. Well, since the bath should be warm and cozy, it is worth considering such a method as a "warm corner", which is a connection of the bars into a root spike.

For such a connection, a special groove is sampled in the end part of one of the bars, and a vertical spike is made in the other bar, at the end. In some cases, knitting is done according to the principle of a double or triple slotted thorn, that is, several vertical thorns are made on the bar, respectively.

Whichever type of joining of the timber you choose for the walls of your bath, the most important thing - do not forget to make a bookmark between the beams between the beams. This will simultaneously increase the density of the joining of building materials and serve as excellent thermal insulation for the entire log house.

Sometimes during construction it may be necessary to splice the beams along the length. In this case, the butt splice method is not recommended for use. For such work, there are types of splices that have been used for a long time:

  • oblique cut at the ends, or oblique butt;
  • end butt with ridge preventing the formation of cracks;
  • method of straight overlap, in which the felling in length is twice the thickness of the timber;

A relatively new and more practical method of bevel and bevel cut to resist lateral loads

splicing of beams along the length
splicing of beams along the length

Insulation used for laying between crowns

As mentioned above, linen-jute linen is the most optimal material to provide insulation between the crowns. Now you can buy it in any building supermarket. Such insulation is produced in rolls of different widths, depending on the size of the selected log or bar, which greatly simplifies the choice, and besides, it is very easy to cut it into strips according to the selected length. This material is made from natural natural fibers of jute and flax, the composition is kept in strict proportions.

During the production process, a fabric of high density and uniform thickness is obtained, in which the fibers are fastened together using special needles with notches.

flax-jute fiber, laying on a bar
flax-jute fiber, laying on a bar

By laying a linen-jute canvas between the beams as a heater in the process of erecting walls, you will save yourself the need for additional caulking, and after the shrinkage of the timber is over, the walls will take the form of a solid monolith. Such a canvas will not creep due to the loads applied by the crowns, will provide uniform insulation along the length of the seam, resistant to moisture, wind and dust, temperature changes and other climatic troubles.

Dowel for timber

The crowns of the log house should be connected to each other along the entire perimeter, as well as at the corners of the castle joints using dowels, or wooden round dowels. Such pins should be made from hardwood, that is, larch, oak or ash. The process of making the nail itself is as follows: take an inch board, cut square slats from it. Then cut them to the required length. Give the battens a rounded shape by cutting and chipping the sides.

There is a much simpler and inexpensive, "lazy" way to make a dowel. Buy ready-made shovel and rake cuttings from the store and cut them to size. This can significantly save both money and especially time.

dowel, punching technique
dowel, punching technique

The installation of dowels in the timber is done at a distance of a meter and a half from each other, and without fail on each side of the log house in the corners. It is necessary to fasten the timber on those sections of the wall where the windows and doors will be located, and fastening should be done 15-20 centimeters before the cutout for the box. This will exclude subsequently the unscrewing of the timber from the solid masonry during the drying of the wood and in the process of shrinking the bathhouse.

In order to install the dowel, holes are drilled in the beam from above so that the two upper beams are stitched through, and in the third a groove is obtained with a depth of 5 to 7 cm, no more. Strictly observe the diameter of the pin: it should be about 2 mm smaller than the diameter of the hole. If you do not follow this rule, then during the shrinkage of the log house, the walls can "spree", which will lead to their significant distortion and affect the boxes for windows and doors. The dowel should easily enter the hole when hammered and recessed into the upper beam by 5 centimeters.

This method of installing dowels is one of the most common, but far from the only one. Many masters have found their own method that has become familiar. After all, the most important function of the dowel is to exclude the displacement of the timber inside the masonry and to ensure the correct shrinkage of the frame during drying, during which the wood will freely move along the surface of the dowel.

wooden dowel in a bar
wooden dowel in a bar

The technology considered above will make it easy, without special professional skills, to erect walls of the required height, while taking into account the natural drying out of the wood, and, accordingly, the shrinkage along the height of the structure's frame by about 7-8 percent.

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Completion of work on the construction of walls from a bar

After the construction of walls from a bar for your bath is over, without wasting time, you should start installing ceiling beams and erecting a roof. It is not worth delaying with this, since the open inner space of the bath is susceptible to the harmful effects of precipitation and wood pests, as well as decay of used wood.

When the roof is installed, you can safely get to work on waterproofing the walls from the inside and decorative finishing on the outside. But this is a completely different story, you still have a lot to do in order for the bathhouse to please you, your family and guests. And we will look at each step in the following articles.

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