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The Location Of The Sockets In The Kitchen: Placement Height, How Many And Where Needed, Photos, Diagrams
The Location Of The Sockets In The Kitchen: Placement Height, How Many And Where Needed, Photos, Diagrams

Video: The Location Of The Sockets In The Kitchen: Placement Height, How Many And Where Needed, Photos, Diagrams

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The location of the sockets in the kitchen

The location of the sockets in the kitchen
The location of the sockets in the kitchen

The layout of the sockets in the kitchen is drawn up at the stage of designing a new building or renovation. The level of comfort and safety when using household appliances depends on how convenient and rationally placed power sources are. With the growing prosperity of people and the variety of household appliances, there is a need to increase the number of outlets. Extension cords and tees do not solve the problem, but only create. Cables appear in the kitchen, which interfere with walking and cleaning. Excessive stress on tee outlets creates a fire hazard. To avoid these troubles, let's figure out in detail how to correctly distribute the sockets.

Content

  • 1 Standards for the installation of sockets in the kitchen
  • 2 Types of sockets for the kitchen and their features
  • 3 Preparing to create an outlet layout

    • 3.1 Calculating the required number of sockets
    • 3.2 Determination of energy consumption: approximate power values ​​for kitchen appliances

      3.2.1 Table: Average Power Consumption of Household Kitchen Appliances

  • 4 Recommended locations for sockets and switches in the kitchen

    • 4.1 How to position the sockets for the hob, oven and hood
    • 4.2 At what height should the sockets for the refrigerator and dishwasher be placed
    • 4.3 How to arrange outlets for small appliances
    • 4.4 Recommendations for the placement of switches in the kitchen
    • 4.5 Examples of layouts of outlets in the kitchen
    • 4.6 Diagram of the wiring lines to the electrical distribution board
    • 4.7 Video: the correct location of the sockets in the kitchen
  • 5 Installation of electrical outlets

    5.1 Video: installation of sockets in the kitchen

Standards for installing sockets in the kitchen

Since electricity can pose a threat to human health and life, installation work is regulated by certain rules. Most of them are reflected in the regulatory documents, in accordance with which the development of projects for the electrification of residential and auxiliary premises is carried out:

  • SNiP 3.05.06 of 1985;
  • GOST 7397.0 and GOST 7396.1 of 1989;
  • GOST 8594 from 1980.

Here are the basic points to follow when planning electrical wiring:

  1. The distance from the outlet to the gas pipes should not be less than 0.5 m.
  2. The sockets are placed at a distance of at least 0.8 m from the water tap. Avoid steam or splashing water on the power source.
  3. For an electric stove or oven, it is necessary to use special plug connectors designed for a maximum current of 32–40 A. The power line is connected directly to the panel with a separate automatic fuse.

    Socket for electric stove
    Socket for electric stove

    The socket for units with high power consumption is made of plastic with increased heat resistance

  4. The sockets are not installed behind the device that they supply, but are carried out to the side - down or up. The distance from the power source to the device should not exceed 1 m.
  5. Wiring and, accordingly, all sockets installed in the kitchen must have a ground terminal.

    Grounding socket
    Grounding socket

    The copper leads on the socket housing are the grounding conductors

  6. Modern electrification standards provide for the installation of at least four sockets in the kitchen. A double socket design counts as two single socket outlets.
  7. Power distribution points for small appliances are installed at a height of 0.1 m from the work table (or approximately 1.15 - 1.4 m from the finished floor).
  8. Do not place sockets over a hob or dishwasher. They should be shifted to the right or left by at least 20-25 cm.
Retractable socket
Retractable socket

The column with sockets of sockets is removed from the body by lightly pressing with your fingers

The first five items are required. The rest are considered more advisory. In a private apartment or house, the owner has the right to dispose of power sources at his own discretion and in accordance with individual needs. As a rule, maximum ergonomics, practicality and convenience are the main guidelines in the placement of outlets.

Types of sockets for the kitchen and their features

In addition to the color variety, electrical outlets differ in the installation method. There are the following types of outlets:

  1. Hidden. This is the most common option for the kitchen, which is used for hidden wiring, when the power cables are embedded in the walls under the plaster. The advantage of such outlets is reliability, durability and safety. In addition, they practically do not stand out against the background of the wall, and with the appropriate selection of color they merge with its surface. The disadvantage is that holes must be drilled into the walls to install them.

    Hidden sockets in the kitchen
    Hidden sockets in the kitchen

    Hidden sockets can be selected so that they merge with the plane of the walls

  2. Overhead. These devices are used for outdoor wiring. The socket is installed directly on the wall surface, without preparatory procedures. Distinctive features - quick installation and availability when repair or replacement is required. The disadvantage is the appearance, many do not like that the outlet protrudes on the wall surface.

    Overhead socket
    Overhead socket

    Overhead sockets are used for outdoor wiring and as additional power sources

  3. Corner. A special type of sockets, the shape and design of which allows them to be installed in corners between walls or between a wall and a work table. In fact, it is a kind of surface-mounted power source, since installation does not require going deep into the wall. Like most modern outlets, corner models are made of durable high quality plastic with high dielectric values. Most often they are used in the form of modules with three to five plug connectors.

    Corner socket
    Corner socket

    Both horizontal and vertical corner rosettes are available with different number of sockets

  4. Retractable. This is a kind of hidden socket, but unlike the stationary version, the retractable socket is mounted not only in the wall, but also in furniture - tables, cabinets, etc. The device is a block of several slots, which, if necessary, is hidden in a special cavity. Depending on the design, retractable sockets are horizontal and vertical. Experts note their following advantages:

    • do not occupy a useful area and are not visible when closed;
    • various installation options are possible, including installation in the floor, which is very convenient for connecting some devices (for example, a vacuum cleaner);
    • the case is equipped with sockets of various configurations, they are used to recharge phones, tablets and other gadgets;
    • to the retractable outlet, you can connect not only power, but also low-current cables: TV antenna, Internet, telephone, etc.;
    • in the closed (folded) state, there is no access to the outlet, which is important in cases when small children or animals live in the house.

      Retractable socket on the table
      Retractable socket on the table

      Retractable sockets can be equipped not only with power supplies, but also with a USB connector, an antenna plug and a computer socket

Preparing to create an outlet layout

Since the kitchen is a special room in which household appliances are concentrated as much as possible (which, moreover, are often used at the same time), it is very important to calculate in advance the total load on the power grid. And in accordance with this, choose the right cables and other installation equipment.

Calculation of the required number of outlets

Of course, first of all, the outlet plan is tied to existing or proposed furniture. Depending on the location of large units, such as refrigerators, dishwashers or powerful ovens, their power sources are supplied. Therefore, before drawing up a project, it is necessary to think over the arrangement of all devices and cabinets. At the same time, one should not forget that progress does not stand still and all new household appliances appear to help housewives. Therefore, it is advisable to plan the number of outlets with a margin.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that today the kitchen can contain not only purely kitchen utensils, but also a TV, a computer and other office equipment. Therefore, when laying power, antennas and low-current cables are brought here.

Warm floors and additional lighting for wall cabinets are often installed in the kitchen. This also needs to be foreseen in advance and determine the location of the power sources.

Connecting underfloor heating in the kitchen
Connecting underfloor heating in the kitchen

The power supply and the heating regulator of the warm electric floor are displayed on the wall separately or together with light switches

To make the operation process comfortable, it is advisable to provide a separate outlet for each unit. This will allow you to use the technique without switching electrical plugs.

To prevent overloads, the installation and connection of the sockets is carried out according to the principle of parallel connection. In this case, a cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 and higher is used. To calculate the exact number of outlets, you need to make a list of all the household appliances located in the kitchen, and add two (or three) more that will remain free. They are intended to connect auxiliary devices that are not used constantly, but from time to time.

For example, if the kitchen has a refrigerator, freezer, dishwasher, electric kettle and microwave, the number of outlets needed will be five plus two, that is, seven.

Determination of energy consumption: approximate power indicators for kitchen appliances

In order to correctly assess the level of power consumption, you need to know the technical characteristics of each device separately. The total consumption is determined by summing the powers of all devices in order to provide for a situation when they are all turned on at the same time.

The table below shows approximate power values ​​for kitchen appliances. From it, you can roughly calculate the power consumption for each specific situation.

Table: Average power consumption of household kitchen appliances

Electrical appliances Approximate power of the device, kW Average duration of operation during the day
Toaster 0.8 10 min
Coffee maker: 0.8
brewing coffee 12 minutes
keeping hot 3 h
Dishwasher 2 2 loads daily, 24 minutes for each wash cycle
Deep fryer 1.5 17 minutes
Teapot 2 10 min
Oven 2 2 h
plate: 8
large heating element 1 h
small heating element 1 h
Fridge 0.2 (compressor + lamp) 7 h (including relay shutdown time)
Freezer 0.2 (compressor + lamp) 7 h (including relay shutdown time)
Microwave 0.85 10 min
Combined microwave oven 2.65 30 minutes
Roster 1.5 30 minutes
Instantaneous water heater 2 30 minutes
Washer 3 1.5 h
Dryer for clothes 3 30 minutes
Food processor 0,4 15 minutes
Exhaust (ventilation) 0.3 30 minutes

The table is very easy to use. It is necessary to make a list of the available household appliances and sum up the values ​​of the rated power. The resulting figure will reflect the load on the power supply system, in accordance with which the section of cables and circuit breakers on the switchboard is calculated.

As practice shows, the average power consumption in an urban kitchen is:

  • with a gas stove: 3-4 kW;
  • with an electric stove: 7.5–8 kW.

Recommended locations for outlets and switches in the kitchen

There are countless options for the location of the sockets. Everyone is free to settle down as they like. The main condition is not to forget about safety.

How to position the sockets for the hob, oven and hood

In order to provide convenient access to sockets, usually proceed as follows:

  1. A place for connecting an electric stove is arranged in an adjacent wall at a height of 0.6–0.7 m from the finished floor. Most often, the outlet is located in an adjacent cabinet, cutting out a part of the back wall for this. In this case, it will be available when you open the door of an adjacent cabinet; you do not need to move the furniture for this. The socket must be rated for 25 A and made of heat-resistant plastic.

    Connecting the hob in the kitchen
    Connecting the hob in the kitchen

    When the stove is connected correctly, the power wires are hidden inside the adjacent kitchen furniture

  2. The socket for the oven must have a rating of at least 16 A. But, unlike the hob, it is mounted at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor.

    Connecting the oven in the kitchen
    Connecting the oven in the kitchen

    The oven socket is installed at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor

  3. The socket for the built-in hood is placed on the wall under the adjacent cabinet. For laying the cable, you can make a groove in plaster, but you can also pull the wire through the side wall of the cabinet. The hole is drilled to the diameter of the power conductor - usually 5 to 8 mm. This must be done before installing the hood over the stove. If the top cover of the cabinet is flush with the hood, the practice is to place the outlet above it. But in order to get to it, you will need to stand on a stool or chair. Taking into account the fact that the hood is turned off very rarely, this is a perfectly acceptable option. If there are no closets nearby, the socket is placed on the wall according to the usual standards (with an offset of 20-25 cm).

    Hood connection in the kitchen
    Hood connection in the kitchen

    Since the need to disconnect the hood from the electrical network is very rare, it is convenient to place the socket under it above the wall cabinets

At what height should the sockets for the refrigerator and dishwasher be placed

There are several ways to connect the refrigerator. Since the power cable is usually no more than a meter in length, the socket is installed within its reach. Taking into account that the refrigerating machine must undergo a defrosting procedure every few months, the socket must be easily accessible.

Often, if the height of the refrigerator permits, it is placed above the unit. But you can also bring power to the lower part of the wall at a distance of 0.1 to 0.3 m from the floor.

Fridge outlet location
Fridge outlet location

If space permits, the socket under the refrigerator can be placed on the side wall at a height of 0.1–0.3 m from the floor; for built-in models, power can be supplied under the furniture facade

The dishwasher differs from the rest of the equipment in that, in addition to the power supply, water supply and drain hoses are supplied to it. The best option is when the electric wires do not intersect with water pipes. In this case, if a leak occurs, water will not get on the wire and will not cause a short circuit. But if this is not possible, the power source is installed on the wall as high as possible - at a distance of 0.5–0.6 m above the floor level (with an offset).

Dishwasher connection
Dishwasher connection

The socket for the dishwasher must be above the level of the outlet of the water pipes

How to arrange outlets for small appliances

For small appliances such as a microwave oven, kettle, coffee machine or blender, the socket strip is located above the worktable in one module. As a rule, it includes nests with different configurations for all occasions. Most often, the unit combines from four to seven sockets, this is enough for regular consumers plus one or two free (spare) sockets. The block is placed at a height of 10 cm from the table surface (or 90–120 cm from the floor). If the work plane is in contact with the wall, it is advisable to use an angular model with a large number of nests. The corner socket is installed not only between the wall and the table, but also between the wall and the bottom wall of the wall cabinet.

Corner sockets in the kitchen
Corner sockets in the kitchen

Corner sockets can be placed not only at the intersection of the walls, but also between the tabletop and the apron

Tips for placing switches in the kitchen

Switches, like sockets, play an important role in creating comfort in the kitchen. The convenience of using lighting devices depends on their location. Therefore, their placement is thought out in advance when drawing up a general scheme for electrifying a room.

Most often, the main lighting switch is located at the entrance, and this is logical. Control of additional lamps and lighting, as a rule, is carried out from the place where it is installed, that is, locally. So, the interior lighting of the cabinets is tied to the opening of the doors. A limit switch is mounted on the sash; when the cabinet is pushed open, a lamp or diode tape lights up. The lighting for the desktop is built into wall cabinets, and the switch is located on the side or bottom surface.

If there are sconces or floor lamps in the kitchen, then their switches are located in the regular places determined by the manufacturer.

The installation height of the input breaker can vary from 0.8 to 1.5 meters. If children live in the house, for their convenience the toggle switch is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor.

A switch may be required not only to control the light, but also to turn on some household appliances, for example, a food waste disposer in a sink. It is usually mounted directly into the sink, within the reach of the hand.

Switch for food waste disposer
Switch for food waste disposer

The switch for the food waste disposer is built into the sink in a convenient place for pressing by hand

Examples of layouts of outlets in the kitchen

Let's consider several typical examples of the location of outlets in the kitchen.

Typical arrangement of sockets in the kitchen
Typical arrangement of sockets in the kitchen

The compact arrangement of household appliances in a small kitchen leads to the need to make many outlets nearby

From the point of view of a professional electrician, there is one vulnerability in a typical circuit. It concerns the location of the sockets for the microwave oven. There are two of them - one above the cabinets, the other at the floor. But the length of the microwave cable usually does not exceed half a meter. This means that the author of the drawing assumes a connection using an extension cord, which is not very good. It is much more convenient to lower (or raise) the mentioned sockets inside the wall cabinets. If you cut a small hole in the back wall, which is usually made of thin fiberboard, then the connection will be much more convenient and aesthetic. The user does not need to bend down deeply or stand on a stool to reach the microwave oven connection point.

The same applies to the outlet for connecting the hood. The diagram assumes the connection of an air cleaner with a large casing for the air duct. Why not use it as a cover for an outlet? The case of such devices is easily removable, so it will be possible to reach the outlet at any time without the use of additional devices.

Diagram of an electrician device without a switch for a chopper
Diagram of an electrician device without a switch for a chopper

When equipping the kitchen with a waste shredder, it is necessary to provide wiring under its switch

There are several errors in this diagram as well. First, there is no switch for the food waste disposer, although a socket is provided for it. In such a situation, at the end of the work, additional wiring will have to be carried out to control the shredder. And this is fraught with a whole complex of troubles - peeling off ceramic tiles, chipping, etc. The second mistake - as in the first case, the socket for the microwave oven is too far away - the cable will obviously not reach it without an extension cord.

I would like to say a few words about installing a washing machine in the kitchen. Now for some reason it has become commonplace. Although it was forbidden to do so 20 years ago. Rather, it was not prohibited, but not recommended. Because the synthetic detergents used for washing are poisonous. If ingested, they can cause poisoning and severe allergic reactions. Why risk your health so much? Is there really no way to put a "washing machine" in the bathroom? After all, even the fumes coming from the machine during the washing process are considered harmful to breathing. Not to mention the water, which is drained through the same sewer pipe as from the sink.

When developing a connection diagram for household appliances in the kitchen, it is advisable to take into account all the smallest nuances. Because redoing is always more expensive than doing it right once. A well-thought-out project saves not only money, but also time.

Diagram of connections of electrical wiring lines to the electrical distribution board

For self-installation of power supplies in the kitchen, you need to know the basic rules for conducting electrical work.

  1. With the help of transfer boxes, two independent power supply lines are formed (each with a separate automatic machine on the switchboard):

    • current supply and lighting control;
    • power outlets.

      Power circuits for lighting and outlets
      Power circuits for lighting and outlets

      Correct distribution of the load on the power grid implies dedicated lines for individual units

  2. For appliances with high power consumption (such as a hob or oven), a dedicated line is laid and a separate circuit breaker of the corresponding rating (16-25 A) is installed.
  3. For sockets, a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 and higher is used. A 3x4 mm 2 cable is usually laid under the oven, 3x6 mm 2 under the electric stove.
  4. For lighting devices, a copper cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is sufficient.
  5. If a washing machine and a dishwasher are used in the kitchen, it is recommended to install an alarm system and eliminate water leakage "Neptune". In the event of an emergency, the system cuts off the water and electricity supply. To install "Neptune", a separate line is brought out to the meter and an additional machine is installed.

    System "Neptune"
    System "Neptune"

    The Neptune universal leakage protection device consists of moisture sensors and electrical equipment

  6. All grounding terminals located on single-phase outlets in the kitchen lead to a common ground bus in the switchboard. This precaution is intended to improve the safety of electrical appliances. In the event of a wire break or short circuit, the electric discharge goes into the "ground", eliminating the possibility of fire or an electric shock by a person.

    Grounding bar in the switchboard
    Grounding bar in the switchboard

    For grounding, use wires with a yellow-green color

  7. An RCD device (residual current device) with a rating of at least 40 A (and a leakage current of 100 mA) is installed on the switchboard. This applies not only to the kitchen, but to the entire apartment as a whole.

    RCD device
    RCD device

    To ensure the safety of using kitchen appliances, a residual current device with a rated leakage current of at least 100 mA is installed in the switchboard.

Compliance with these conditions will ensure the reliable and long-term operation of kitchen outlets and save users from unpleasant surprises associated with overloading the power supply.

Video: the correct location of the sockets in the kitchen

Installation of electrical outlets

It is best if a specialist is involved in installing electrical power points. This is a responsible business and requires certain knowledge. But if necessary, every adult can mount the outlet. To do this, it is necessary to clearly represent the connection diagram, which means that you need to draw a diagram on a sheet of paper with reference to the main dimensions of the room.

Before starting the installation work, marking is done. The locations of the power supplies are marked on the walls. In practice, there are three main levels of outlet location in the kitchen:

  • the lower level for "heavy equipment" (refrigerators, ovens, dishwashers, etc.) - a height of 10–30 cm from the level of the clean floor;
  • the average level for small household appliances (teapots, toasters, multicooker, etc.) - 10-29 cm from the surface of the desktop;
  • the upper level for hoods, lighting and other things - a height of about 2 m from the floor.

Depending on what wiring is planned, the installation sites are prepared. When organizing hidden wiring, the following actions are performed:

  1. A recess is made in the wall in such a way that the body of the outlet is completely immersed in it, and its upper bar is in the same plane with the wall.
  2. Cables are supplied to the seat, which also need to be deepened into the plaster and subsequently putty. Wiring is carried out using a puncher or wall chaser. The depth of the groove depends on the diameter of the cable and the number of wires laid in it. On average, they deepen by 50–250 mm.

    Installation procedure for hidden wiring
    Installation procedure for hidden wiring

    Before installing the socket, the socket is fixed in the wall and the channels for laying the cable are grooved

  3. The socket is fixed to the socket under the socket on alabaster. After the gypsum is completely dry, insert the socket itself, which is attached using a spacer mechanism.

    Socket spacer mechanism
    Socket spacer mechanism

    The socket is fixed by means of clamping lugs, which are spread by tightening the corresponding bolts

  4. The cable is connected to the terminals of the base / plinth. Then the plinth is fixed and closed with a lid. After that, depending on the design of the socket, the external decorative strip is fastened with latches or screws.

    Installing the decorative strip
    Installing the decorative strip

    Depending on the socket model, the outer trim strip can be screwed or latched.

Overhead sockets are much easier to install:

  1. Prepare a seat - a dielectric lining made of wood or plastic is attached to the wall.
  2. A power cable is fed in a cable duct or corrugation.
  3. The socket housing is mounted on the lining and the terminals are connected.

    Connecting the cable to the outlet
    Connecting the cable to the outlet

    The connected cable is connected to the socket terminals

  4. Install the top cover.

    Installation of an external socket
    Installation of an external socket

    The socket cover is fixed after the terminals are tested for current

When carrying out installation, it is necessary to completely disconnect the wires from the electric current. To do this, turn off the machines on the switchboard. If the meter is located in a common corridor, a sign must be displayed: “Do not turn on. Electrical work is underway."

Video: installation of sockets in the kitchen

When designing outlets in the kitchen, do not neglect safety standards. When self-assembly, use personal protective equipment - rubber gloves and mats. These simple measures sometimes save a person's life. If there is no firm self-confidence, it is better to turn to professionals. For little money, they will help you quickly and efficiently install power supplies in the kitchen.

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