Raspberry Gusar: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Raspberry Gusar: how to grow a good harvest

Hussar is a vigorous variety with powerful shoots and large berries. A lot of space is required under the raspberry tree. Large bushes need abundant watering and feeding. A tangible advantage - thorns only in the lower part of the shoots.

Content

• 1 Repaired raspberry Gusar: variety description (with photo)

  1.1 Video: raspberries during fruiting

• 2 Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table

• 3 Planting berries

  • 3.1 Site selection, planting dates and soil preparation

    3.1.1 Video: Where to plant raspberries?

  • 3.2 Selection of seedlings and planting

    3.2.1 Video: Planting raspberries, what high-quality seedlings look like

• 4 Care for Gusar raspberries

  • 4.1 Watering

    4.1.1 Video: Watering berry crops, including raspberries

  • 4.2 Top dressing - table

  • 4.3 Pruning and shaping bushes

    4.3.1 Video: Double Crop Raspberry

  • 4.4 Preparing for winter

• 5 Diseases and pests

  • 5.1 Diseases and pests characteristic of Hussar, how to fight - table
  • 5.2 Photo gallery: Potential diseases and pests of Hussar
• 6 Harvesting
• 7 Reviews of gardeners about raspberry Gusar

Repaired raspberry Gusar: variety description (with photo)

Raspberries appeared in Russian gardens at the turn of two centuries, in 1999. Bred in Bryansk by breeder Kazakov. The variety is zoned for the Central and North Caucasus regions, however, it is grown in the south, due to its high drought resistance, and in the north, because it is not afraid of frost. The bush grows sprawling, powerful, 1.8–2.5 m high. Thorns are formed only in the lower part of the stem, but fruit branches cover its entire length. Little shoots are formed - 6–8 root suckers per season.

On the shoots of Hussar, in the part where the berries are formed, there are no thorns

Gusar's berries are large, the average weight is 4 g, but with good agricultural technology they can grow up to 10 g. The shape is elongated, conical with a rounded tip. The color of ripe raspberries is bright red with a ruby tint. The taste is bright, sweet, with a subtle sourness and a distinct aroma. Harvesting begins in mid-July and lasts almost a month. One bush yields 3.6–4 kg of berries. This is a common variety - not remontant, that is, it bears fruit only once per season.

Video: raspberries during fruiting

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table

Advantages	disadvantages
Large and tasty berries	Too tall shoots, you need to cut, tie up
Thorns do not interfere with harvesting	Little growth - not enough planting material for breeding
Little overgrowth	Strong bushes take up a lot of space on the site
Resistant to both drought and frost	Affected by the shoot gall midge, raspberry-strawberry weevil
Resists viral infections: curliness, mosaic, spotting

Planting berries

Site selection, planting dates and soil preparation

Raspberry in the forest

In the wild, raspberries grow on the banks of rivers, ravines, along the edges of swamps, in clearings, that is, in sunny places, sheltered from the winds by trees, on loose and moist, but not flooded soils. A similar plot should be found in your garden for breaking a raspberry tree. The bushes should be in full sun for most of the day. In the shade, Hussar will not bear fruit, or the berries will grow small and sour.

Favorable periods for planting: spring - in April and autumn - after September 15th. The root system of this culture is not as powerful as that of trees, therefore planting holes are not prepared in advance. It is enough to clear the area of debris, old plant residues, and to prevent diseases, treat the soil with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 l of water).

It is better to dig up clay and poor soil by adding 1m²:

• 1 bucket of compost or humus;
• 1 bucket of peat or 0.5 buckets of sand;
• 0.5 l of ash.

Video: Where to plant raspberries?

Selection of seedlings and planting

In a raspberry seedling, the most important part is the root, it is he who will give young shoots, on which flowers and berries will appear. The stem is needed only for ease of planting and as a marking.

Criteria for choosing a seedling of raspberry Gusar:

• only one stem about 30 cm high without signs of disease on the bark: purple, brown, black or white spots;
• the root is lush, fibrous with replacement buds or rudiments of young shoots;
• seedlings in containers will have to be assessed by the condition of the stem: live, not dried; when buying in the spring, ideal for shoots breaking through the soil.

The main thing in the seedling is the replacement buds on the roots, from which young fruiting shoots will grow

Planting stages:

1. Dip the seedlings into a solution of one of the stimulants: Kornevin (1 g per 1 liter of water), Zircon (4 drops per 1 liter), Heteroauxin (1 tablet per 2-3 liters of water).
2. While the Hussar is gaining strength, prepare pits 50 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. Carefully fold the removed soil in piles near the pits. Planting scheme for a vigorous variety: 80–100 cm in a row, 150 cm between rows.
3. Prepare a nutrient mixture from each mound of soil removed from the holes. Mix this soil with humus (0.5 buckets), ash (1 cup), superphosphate (1 tablespoon) and potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon). The rates are indicated for one bush! Lovers of organic farming can only do with humus and ash.
4. Place the seedlings in the holes. Expand or deepen each depending on the size and shape of the root system. Be sure to straighten the roots, you cannot bend them, twist, etc.
5. Fill the roots in the planting holes with the prepared soil mixture, tamp lightly, form depressions for watering.
6. Pour 1-2 buckets of water under each seedling, let it soak and cover with mulch. You can sprinkle with dry earth.

Video: Planting raspberries, what high-quality seedlings look like

Gusar raspberry care

Watering

In raspberries, the roots are superficial, the bulk is at a depth of 50 cm. This layer should be well moistened during the most important periods for culture:

• the beginning of the growth of ovaries;
• ripening of the first berries;
• 10 days after the previous one;
• immediately after picking the last berries;
• at the end of October - charging irrigation, if the autumn was dry.

During the season, raspberries are watered 4-5 times

Water consumption for each Husar bush is up to 40-50 liters. Sprinkling is not recommended, since it is irregular watering. In addition, this method often leads to fungal diseases, wateriness and rot of berries. Whether or not to water during the indicated periods is up to the circumstances. Dig up the ground, stepping back from the bush 30-40 cm, to a depth of 50 cm, if the entire layer is well moistened, the soil sticks together into a non-scattering lump, then you do not need to water. Also, be critical about watering rates. For example, if only the upper 25 cm is not sufficiently moistened, then halve the water consumption. Keep the soil in the raspberry patch under the mulch. A layer of sawdust or straw will retain moisture and free you from regular loosening.

Video: Watering berry crops, including raspberries

Top dressing - table

Terms of introduction	Fertilizers and dosage	Method of application
In early spring through melted snow	50 g of urea or ammonium nitrate per 1 m²	Spread over the remaining thin layer of snow or melt water (into puddles)
In the spring, when the earth dries up	1 bucket of compost, or 1 bucket of humus, or 6 kg of dry bird droppings per 1 m²	Spread before the first spring loosening and embed in the soil to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm
In the budding phase	Complex fertilizer for foliar feeding, for example, Kristalon Special (1 g / l) or Fitovert Energy Active (1% solution)	Spray, wetting all the leaves
After harvest	Infusion of herbs, mainly nettle (1:10), plus a glass of ash in a bucket of fertilizing	Water until the soil gets wet (1-2 buckets under the bush). It is impossible to burn the roots with such a solution.
In autumn, in October	60 g superphosphate and 40 potassium sulfate per 1 m²	Spread around the bushes and loosen

Do not use mineral fertilizers containing chlorine. Chlorosis can develop in raspberries. At the end of summer, sow siderates (rapeseed, mustard, phacelia) in the raspberry bed. In fall, cut and embed in soil or use instead of mulch.

Pruning and shaping bushes

Traditionally, gardeners use a method in which the bush consists of completely smooth (no side branches) and long stems. In this case, berries are formed only on the tops. The Sobolev double pruning technique is now gaining popularity. With this technology, berries cover the entire stem. And since Hussar produces so many side branches, it would be wise to use this technology to increase yields.

Double cropping according to Sobolev:

1. In June-July, when young green shoots grow up to 100–120 cm, shorten them by 10–15 cm (cut off the tops).
2. In August, immediately after harvest, cut the lignified stems that have borne on the ground. Then Hussar will direct all his forces to the growth and development of young shoots and the laying of buds of the future harvest.
3. By autumn, lateral branches will grow on the remaining annual stems, together with them the raspberries should overwinter.
4. In the spring, shorten the side branches by 7–10 cm, tie the formed shoots to the trellises.
5. In the summer, new young shoots grow, repeat the whole scheme from the first point.

Video: Double Pruning Raspberries

In addition to pruning, shrub formation and overgrowth removal are necessary. Hussar gives up to 10 shoots, but in the bush for better lighting, leave 5-7. You can cut out the excess (the weakest) in the fall, but better in the spring, because some shoots can freeze or break when you bend them to the ground for wintering.

Remove root suckers (shoots) as they appear. If they made their way at a distance of at least 25–30 cm from the bush, then dig them up with a shovel; if they grew closer, dig them to a depth of 5–7 cm and cut them off with a pruner. You cannot pull the growth out of the ground!

Preparing for winter

After the above-mentioned autumn activities (charging irrigation and phosphorus-potassium dressing), it remains to mulch the roots and bend the stems to the ground.

Cover the soil under the bushes within a radius of 30 cm with a thick layer of mulch (10-15 cm) made of straw, dry grass, sawdust, you can use spruce branches. It is important that this layer allows air to pass through, otherwise the roots will rot. Then it is necessary to bend the stems to the ground so that in winter they are completely under the snow. To do this, tilt the shoots of two neighboring bushes towards each other and tie them.

Raspberry bent to the ground in winter will be under the snow

Diseases and pests

A hussar, even among lazy gardeners, rarely gets sick, however, raspberries are never absolutely resistant to all fungi and viruses. And this variety can wither away with improper agricultural technology (chlorosis due to watering with cold water, excess chlorine and a lack of other substances) or from an unfavorable neighborhood (late blight of roots). Also, from a nearby strawberry plantation, a weevil passes to raspberries. According to the gardeners' reviews, Hussar also attracts the stem gall midge.

Diseases and pests characteristic of the Hussar, how to fight - table

Disease / pest	Description	Control methods
Chlorosis physiological	The leaves turn yellow, remaining green only at the veins. Shoots grow thin and short. Berries, if tied, are inedible: gnarled, small, dry.	Observe the rules for growing raspberries: water with water heated in the sun, do not fill, fertilize on time and at the rate. The plant can be restored by adding urea (50 g per bush) or feeding with bird droppings (1:20). If raspberries get sick while observing all the rules of agricultural technology, then chlorosis is viral.
Chlorosis viral		To combat sucking pests that carry the chlorosis virus. Sick shoots can no longer be cured, they need to be cut and removed from the site, it is better to burn them.
Late blight of roots	The disease often passes from a nearby potato field or enters an area with diseased seedlings. Different parts of the plant are affected at different stages of development. During flowering, the cores of the flowers dry up and turn black, and the petals remain white. The ovaries grow ugly with a dry nose. On ripe berries, light depressed spots are visible, similar to burns. Sick bushes become squat, lower leaves drop, turn yellow, side branches dry up. If you dig up such a bush, you can see that the thin fibrous roots have rotted away, the thick ones have become bald and pointed. In the cut, the core of such a root is colored red or brick in color.	Choose seedlings with healthy roots. Observe the crop rotation, do not plant in the area where old raspberries grew. Eliminate the neighborhood with potatoes and strawberries. It is imperative to add humus when planting and add it every year in the form of dressings. In the spring for prevention, spray with Fitosparin: 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of paste concentrate (1: 2 with water) per 10 liters of water. Remove diseased bushes and disinfect the raspberry plant with one of the following preparations: Ridomil (10 g per 4 L of water), Arcerid (30 g per 10 L), copper sulfate (50 g per 10 L). When 25% of raspberries are infected, dig out all the bushes, burn them, disinfect the soil, do not plant raspberries in this place for 4–5 years.
Raspberry and strawberry weevil	The black beetle 3-4 mm in size with a proboscis nose first feeds on strawberries and grows the first generation on them. To breed the second, it migrates to late strawberry varieties and to raspberries. This happens at the end of June. The female gnaws the buds and lays eggs in them. The larvae feed on the contents, the buds crumble without forming berries. The pest can destroy up to 90% of the crop.	Keep strawberries and raspberries away from each other. Collect and destroy hanging and fallen buds. Before and after flowering, spray with a solution of Fufanon-nova (11 g per 10 l of water). After harvesting, treat with Spark M (10 ml per 10 l).
Stem gall midge	The insect looks like a fly and a mosquito at the same time. Size - about 2 mm, body - black with a brown back, wings - transparent. During flowering, the female lays eggs on young shoots, at the base of the bud. The most obvious symptom is cones on the stem, up to 2–3 cm in diameter. Up to 11 larvae develop in each nest. Pests feed on the juices of the shoot, which leads to its death. Only one generation of gall midges grows per season.	Cut out damaged shoots and burn. When forming bushes, leave 1-2 extra shoots in such a case. Before flowering for prophylaxis and after harvesting, if gall is found, spray with karbofos (60 g per 10 l).

Photo gallery: Possible diseases and pests of Hussar

The most obvious sign of chlorosis is that the leaves turn yellow, retaining a green color near the veins.

Left root affected by late blight, right - healthy

The female raspberry-strawberry weevil gnaws at the base of the buds in which it has laid eggs

In the cones on the stems, the larvae of the stem gall midge live and feed

Stem gall midge looks like a fly

Harvesting

Gusar berries ripen in July. Of course, the first, the largest and most delicious, will be eaten fresh. The collection lasts until mid-August. During this time, you will have time to process the entire crop, turning it into medicinal jams, aromatic liqueurs and delicious jams. The most popular raspberry dessert is a fresh berry, ground with sugar and drenched in cream or milk.

Hussar's raspberries are the most common in consistency, crumple, do not store for a long time, it is problematic to transport them - they flow. The variety is created for home gardens, not for commercial cultivation.

Collect raspberries in a shallow container

Reviews of gardeners about raspberries Gusar

Raspberry Gusar attracts with its size. Powerful shoots, hung with large berries, look very impressive and delight the gardener. The variety is resistant to diseases, droughts and frosts, but reveals its full potential only with competent agricultural technology.