Repaired Raspberry Monomakh's Hat: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos, Videos And Reviews

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Raspberry Monomakh Hat: a remontant berry in your garden

New remontant varieties of raspberries are quickly conquering the hearts of gardeners and lovers of delicious berries. This is also the raspberry Hat of Monomakh. Among the advantages of this variety are good taste and high yield.

Content

• 1 Description of the remontant raspberry variety Hat Monomakh

  • 1.1 Video: features of remontant raspberries
  • 1.2 Table: characteristics of the variety

• 2 Landing

  2.1 Step by step instructions

• 3 Reproduction

  3.1 Video: reproduction of remontant raspberries by cuttings

• 4 Care

  • 4.1 Cropping
  • 4.2 Top dressing
  • 4.3 Watering
  • 4.4 Weeding, mulching and loosening

• 5 Diseases and pests

  • 5.1 Table: common diseases of the Shapka Monomakh variety
  • 5.2 Photo gallery: raspberry diseases Monomakh hat
  • 5.3 Table: how to deal with raspberry pests
  • 5.4 Photo Gallery: Raspberry Pests Monomakh Hat
• 6 Harvesting and storage of crops
• 7 Reviews

Description of the remontant raspberry variety Cap Monomakh

Raspberry Monomakh's hat looks more like a small tree than a shrub. Strong and powerful branches grow up to 1.5 m in height. There are practically no thorns on the shoots.

Deep red berries, elongated. Fruit weight - from 6 to 20 g. The stem is easily separated from the pulp. Raspberry berries Monomakh's Hat are sweet, with a subtle hint of sourness.

Raspberry Monomakh's hat gives a bountiful harvest - up to 8 kg per bush

Monomakh's cap belongs to the remontant varieties, i.e. fruiting is possible on both annual and biennial shoots.

Video: features of remontant raspberries

Table: variety characteristics

pros	Minuses
Good taste.	With an excess of water, the berries lose their taste and become watery.
High productivity.	Raspberries are easily susceptible to various viruses, and also often get sick with the so-called looseness: the berries break down into individual grains.
Good transportability due to the dense structure of the berry.	Dislikes acidic soil.
Frost resistance (-25 to C).

Landing

Recommendations for planting raspberries:

• plant raspberries in the southern part of the site, where the north side is protected by some buildings;
• it is better to "dilute" heavy soil with peat or sand;
• digging up the ground for planting, add 50 g of superphosphate to it, as well as peat, ash and humus;
• make sure the raspberry patch is well lit by the sun all day;
• so that the root system of the bushes does not suffer, groundwater should be located deeper than 1.5 m from the surface layer of the soil;
• too tall bushes when planting need to be cut to 40 cm;
• put the purchased seedling in a container with water for 5–6 hours and tear off all the leaves from it;
• the planting pit should be approximately 35–40 cm deep, the distance between seedlings should be 1.2–1.5 m; in row spacing - 80–90 cm;
• for convenience, you can plant young raspberries in trenches;
• when digging a hole, pour the earth into the buckets, so that later it will be convenient to pour it back;
• compact the soil well around the seedling after planting.

It is convenient to plant raspberries in trenches, not holes

The best time for planting remontant raspberries in central Russia is early October, and in the southern regions - early November. If you decide to plant a crop in the spring, then do it in March, when the buds have not yet filled.

Step-by-step instruction

1. If the seedling was dug right before planting, then you do not need to pick off the leaves.

   

   A raspberry seedling must be free of disease signs

2. Having measured the distance between the seedlings, check the box for convenience.

   

   The distance between seedlings should be 70-80 cm

3. Dig a hole that is large enough.

   

   The depth of the pit for planting raspberries is at least 40 cm

4. Pour humus and 0.5 liters of ash at the bottom of the hole. Put 50 g of superphosphate on top.

   

   Fertilizers when planting raspberries will provide nutrients for good growth

5. All "ingredients" in the pit should be mixed.

6. Pour out a bucket of water with the addition of potassium permanganate and wait until the liquid is absorbed.

   

   A solution of potassium permanganate will help disinfect the soil

7. Place the seedling in the prepared recess.

   

   The correct placement of the seedling when planting will help to avoid growth problems

8. Cover raspberries with earth and tamp them.

   

   At the final stage of planting raspberries, the soil around the young plant should be well tamped.

9. Pour a bucket of water on top.

   

   Abundant watering is essential for raspberries for good growth.

10. Lay the soil around the seedling with hay or straw.

    

    Mulch will help retain moisture in the soil for a long time

Reproduction

There are several ways to breed raspberries:

1. Green shoots. This is the most popular method, which is used the next year after planting the seedling. As soon as the green shoots grow to 15–20 cm, they are transplanted to a new site.
2. Root cuttings. Raspberry Monomakh's cap gives all its energy to its large berries and therefore, as a rule, it has few shoots around the bush. Propagation by root cuttings is the most suitable way out. After harvesting the autumn harvest, strong roots with a diameter of about 0.8 cm and a length of 10-15 cm are cut out from under the raspberry queen. They are stored in a dark room, covered with dry sand. In spring, cuttings are laid horizontally in small trenches, buried and watered regularly.
3. Seeds. The varietal qualities of raspberries are often not preserved, and gardeners rarely use this technique. The scheme is as follows: grind raspberries, add water, discard the floating seeds. The rest should be planted in trays, in light soil, to a depth of 4–5 mm. Wrap the pots with cellophane for a couple of weeks and water them regularly. When two leaves appear on the processes, you can transplant them into pots.
4. By dividing the bush. In early spring or late autumn, a raspberry bush is dug up and divided into parts, then each is planted in a new hole.
5. Cuttings. A good green shoot is simply cut off from a raspberry bush, which is then divided into pieces of 7–10 cm. The cuttings are buried at an angle of 40–50 ^o. When they take root, they can be transplanted to a new location.

Video: reproduction of remontant raspberries by cuttings

Care

Basic requirements for caring for this variety of raspberries:

• the soil must be fertilized with peat and humus;
• the soil should not be allowed to dry out - regular watering is required;
• all shoots after the autumn harvest must be cut off;
• after pruning, the soil around the bushes must be sprinkled with humus and ash.

The raspberry variety Monomakh's Hat is most profitable to grow in a one-year cycle. Leaving annual shoots for the winter, the gardener risks getting a meager autumn harvest.

Repaired raspberry varieties are more profitable to grow in a one-year cycle

Pruning

Growing raspberries in a one-year cycle removes the problem of their wintering: if the aboveground part of the bush is cut off for the winter, then there is nothing to freeze in frosts.

Shoots should be cut so that there are almost no hemp left. For the winter, the soil around the raspberry tree is mulched with dry peat, compost, and straw. In the spring and summer, pruning is also carried out: for sanitary purposes, broken, dried and diseased branches are removed. It is optimal to leave 4 shoots per 1 m ², the rest must be dug out. This is important for good ventilation and illumination.

After harvest, raspberry shoots are cut at the root

Top dressing

Raspberries need to be fed with organic matter regularly. Mullein (diluted with water at a ratio of 1:10) or chicken droppings (1:20) are ideal for this.

The first time you need to feed the raspberries at the end of May, the second and third - at the end of June and July. Each bush requires approximately 4 liters of organic fertilizer. Top dressing is carried out after watering or rain.

In the third year after planting, raspberries need to be fed with mineral fertilizers with potassium, phosphorus and other microelements useful for it. Such fertilizers are applied at the end of August (the doses are indicated on the packages).

Mineral fertilizer for raspberries can be purchased at a specialized store

Watering

The number of raspberries harvested Monomakh's hat depends on the correct watering. This culture is very hygrophilous and gives small fruits with a lack of moisture.

It is important to water the raspberries in late spring and summer when they are actively blooming. Experienced gardeners advise to do 7 waterings: the first in May, then in the first and second months of summer, two waterings, and one each in August and October. The condition of the leaves should be monitored: if they droop, it means that the plant does not have enough water.

Watering methods:

1. Drip irrigation. It is considered the most effective.

   

   With drip irrigation, water is dosed to each bush

2. Furrow irrigation. On both sides of the bushes, at a distance of 40 cm, grooves are made 10 cm deep, into which water is poured. After watering, they are buried.

3. Sprinkling. Putting a divider on the hose, you can achieve a "rain effect" and water not only the roots, but also the leaves of the plant.

   

   Sprinkling is used in cloudy weather, as well as in the morning or evening

4. Bucket watering. Having previously loosened the ground around the bush, water is simply poured onto the soil.

Weeding, mulching and loosening

Loosening, weeding and mulching can be combined. In row spacings, the soil can be loosened 10–15 cm deep, and in rows - by 5–8 cm. At the same time, you do not need to pull out small weeds - they will act as a mulching agent. Do not forget to add some peat and compost under the raspberry tree once a month, mixing them with the top layer of soil.

Diseases and pests

Raspberry Monomakh's hat is considered a variety that is not particularly resistant to various types of diseases.

Table: common diseases of the Monomakh Hat variety

Diseases	Symptoms	How to treat	Prevention
Bushy dwarfism	The leaves turn yellow, fall off. The size of fruits and branches decreases, the berries fall off.	The bush should be dug up and destroyed, it cannot be treated.	Purchase of healthy seedlings from specialized nurseries.
Purple spot	The branches begin to grow weakly, and the leaves are covered with purple spots, which increase in size and darken every day.	Before new shoots appear, you need to use 3% Bordeaux liquid (300 g of copper sulfate, 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water). Apply during the budding period and after picking berries 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of lime, diluted in 10 liters of water).	Spring and autumn digging of soil. Planting raspberry seedlings at a sufficiently large distance from each other. Timely pruning.
White spot	Light brown spots form on the leaves, the middle of which turns white over time. The bark cracks and becomes covered with light spots, which have black dots.
Rust	Leaves are covered with light yellow "balls" outside. In summer, these seals turn orange and black. Shoot development slows down, foliage dries and falls off.
Anthracnose	The stems are covered with round purple spots with a depression in the middle. Over time, these spots will become gray circles with a red border.

Photo gallery: raspberry diseases Monomakh hat

With raspberry white spot, spots with a diameter of about 3 mm appear

Raspberry rust produces stains that really look like rust

Raspberry anthracnose develops from high humidity

Bushy raspberry dwarfism is transmitted with pollen

The causative agent of raspberry purple spot is a fungus

Table: how to deal with raspberry pests

Pests	Signs	Fight	Prevention
Weevil	Dried buds fall, in which the pest has laid eggs.	Before flowering, treat with Iskra-M solution (1 ml per 10 l of water), after harvest - with Karbofos (60 g per 10 l).	Digging the soil in the fall. Weeding and weed control.
Raspberry beetle	The berries become small and dry up.	During the beginning of budding, shake off pests into a container and destroy. Treat the bushes with a 10% solution of Karbofos (75 g per 10 l).
Spider mite	A cobweb and light dots form on the leaves, which darken over time. The sheet dries. The yield is decreasing.	As soon as the pest is noticed, spray with Fitoverm solution (2 ml per 1 liter, consumption of 1 liter per bush). After harvest, process with Karbofos (60 g per 10 l).
Raspberry aphid	The stems are bent, the leaves are curled.	Use Karbofos before bud break.

Photo gallery: raspberry pests Monomakh hat

Weevil lays eggs in fruits

Raspberry aphid, light green, 2.5–3 mm in size

The raspberry beetle has an oval body measuring from 3.8 to 4.3 mm

Spider mite entangles leaves with cobwebs

Harvesting and storage

The berries of the remontant raspberry Monomakh's Cap ripen at the end of August, fruiting continues until frost. Harvest in dry weather to increase shelf life. Having separated the berries from the stalk, they are put in low baskets or in rigid boxes. Fresh raspberries will be stored in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. If you leave it in a warm room, then this period is reduced to 8-9 hours, then the berries need to be frozen or processed.

Fresh raspberries will be stored in the refrigerator for 3-4 days

It is recommended to wash raspberries just before use. Delicious jams, compotes and preserves are made from it, famous for their medicinal properties. Frozen raspberries are used to make dumplings, pies, yoghurts.

Reviews

The type of remontant raspberry Cap Monomakh depends on watering and weather. But with proper adherence to the rules of care, you can harvest a huge harvest of berries, some of which are simply amazing in their size.