Do-it-yourself Installation Of Metal Doors, As Well As How To Properly Dismantle

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 12:53

Installation of a metal door

Metal doors are a symbol of the safety and security of property. But no matter how good the door is, if the installation is done incorrectly, attackers can easily overcome this obstacle. And hacking is not the worst thing. It often happens that the tenants themselves cannot get inside the apartment due to the fact that the door does not open: the lock fails, the door leaf does not open, etc. Upon closer inspection, it turns out that the main reason is hidden in errors during door installation, violation of the rules for installing the door block.

Content

• 1 Rules for installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

  1.1 What you need to install an entrance metal door

• 2 How to install an entrance metal door

  • 2.1 Preparatory phase
  • 2.2 Installing the frame
  • 2.3 Installing the door leaf
  • 2.4 Fitting fittings
  • 2.5 Finishing

  • 2.6 Features of installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

    2.6.1 Video: installing an entrance metal door in an apartment

  • 2.7 Features of installing an entrance metal door in a wooden house

    2.7.1 Video: installation of a metal door in a wooden house

  • 2.8 Features of installing an entrance metal door in aerated concrete

    2.8.1 Video: installing an iron door in aerated concrete

• 3 Installation of accessories to the entrance metal door

  • 3.1 Installation of locks in an iron door

    • 3.1.1 Installing the mortise lock
    • 3.1.2 Video: how to properly embed a lock into a metal door
    • 3.1.3 Installing a patch lock
    • 3.1.4 Video: installing a patch lock on a metal door

  • 3.2 How to properly install the closer on a metal door

    3.2.1 Video: instructions for installing a door closer

  • 3.3 How to install a handle on a metal entrance door

  • 3.4 How to repair slopes after installing a metal door

    3.4.1 Video: DIY door slopes

  • 3.5 How to attach extensions to an entrance metal door

• 4 Dismantling the entrance metal door

  4.1 Video: dismantling the old front door and installing a new one in 30 minutes

Rules for installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

Gone are the days when, to install a metal door, it was enough to invite a familiar welder and build an iron structure in a free style at the entrance to the apartment. Since the fashion for iron doors took root among the urban population, standards and rules have been developed and approved, the violation of which is punishable by law.

A metal door installed in an apartment must comply with regulatory documents

On the territory of the Russian Federation, there are several regulatory documents governing the procedure for the manufacture and installation of metal doors in residential buildings.

• GOST 31173-2003 regulates the technical conditions for the installation and operation of door steel blocks;
• PPB (fire safety rules) describe the procedure for installing a metal door in residential and commercial buildings;
• SNiP 21.01.97 and SP 1.13130.2009 determine the dimensions of the door block, the direction of opening the door leaf, the height of the threshold and other technical indicators.

Doors can be of standard sizes or made according to a special project. There are the following standard sizes of metal door blocks (height x width according to the size of the door leaf):

• 2070 x 710 mm;
• 2070 x 810 mm;
• 2070 x 910 mm;
• 2070 x 1010 mm;
• 2070 x 1210 mm;
• 2070 x 1310 mm;
• 2370 x 1510 mm;

• 2370 x 1910 mm.

  

  Manufacturers produce metal doors not only of standard sizes, but also non-standard configurations to order

The size of the door frame, in accordance with GOST and the intended purpose of the product, is tied to the dimensions of the door leaf.

Installation should be carried out by a specialized organization, it is better to give preference to a team of assemblers from the manufacturer of metal doors. Personnel who have completed a training course and are equipped with the necessary tools and materials are allowed for installation work.

The main requirements, according to the documents, are to use reliable fastening material. So, anchor dowels and threaded connections with a diameter of at least 10 mm are used. The distance between them should not exceed 0.7 m. Anchor plates and steel pins are used as additional fasteners. The gaps are filled with materials with a low shrinkage coefficient and high thermal insulation properties:

• sealing compression (pre-compressed) tapes PSUL;
• mineral or basalt wool;
• silicone or acrylic sealant;
• polyurethane foam;
• polyurethane cords.

Painting and impregnating the joints with primers or other binders is not recommended

The rules require the door to be vertical in all planes, regardless of the position of the adjacent walls.

In residential areas, the minimum size allowed for a steel door is 1.9 m in height and 0.8 m in width. In commercial buildings, the minimum width is set at 1.2 m, which is explained by the increased flow of people (with the likelihood of evacuation in an emergency).

In administrative and commercial buildings, the entrance door must be at least 1.2 m wide, counting on a large flow of people during evacuation

The mounting gaps between the door frame and the sash, set by SNiP, are 25–40 mm. The distance between the border of the doorway and the metal frame should be from 2 to 3 cm, while at the end of the assembly they are carefully filled with cement mortar (in wooden houses, an adjusting bar is used - a lute, which is cut out taking into account the existing dimensions of the door frame).

An important point when agreeing on the installation of steel doors is compliance with fire safety rules. There are prerequisites that must be taken into account during installation.

1. The door opens outward, in the direction of the escape route.
2. The open sash does not impede access to adjacent rooms.
3. The door opening width is at least 0.8 m.
4. The door does not block the opening of adjacent doors.
5. There is a free space of at least 1 m between the wall and the door.

At the end of the installation work, a standard document is drawn up - the acceptance certificate, which confirms the installation in full and stipulates the warranty obligations.

What is needed to install an entrance metal door

The main instruction on which to rely during the assembly of a metal door is the technical data sheet. It contains the installation diagram and the specification of the attachment points. There are a great variety of types and models of steel doors, each has its own design and installation features. Since the main purpose of the iron door block is protection against burglary and penetration, manufacturers are constantly improving the internal structure of the locking mechanism, complementing it with the latest developments and technologies.

Nevertheless, there is an established procedure for installing doors. For a successful installation, the following tools must be prepared:

• a hammer drill with a set of drills for concrete (with victorious soldering);
• electric drill or screwdriver with attachments for tightening screws and bolts;
• a set of plumbing tools, including a hammer, pry bar, pliers, files, foam and sealant gun;

• measuring tool: tape measure, hydraulic level (or construction laser), pencil, marker.

  

  To install a metal door, you need a hammer drill, a screwdriver and a standard set of tools for plumbing.

In addition, for the installation of slopes, you will need a dry concrete mixture, a container for mixing a solution (a bucket or a trough), a trowel and spatulas. Rubber seals are usually included in the delivery. But you need to purchase polyurethane foam yourself. The bucket is also useful for cleaning up the debris that forms when preparing the wall opening for the installation of doors.

To work with professional polyurethane foam, you need a special gun

In the event that the door is installed in a wooden frame, instead of a hammer drill, you need a chain saw and a set of chisels.

How to install an entrance metal door

Self-installation of the door unit is justified in terms of economy. But if gross mistakes are made, then the whole effect will be covered by the cost of repairs, which will be required very soon. Therefore, you need to soberly weigh your strengths and abilities, carefully study the installation manual and only after that make a responsible decision.

Preparatory stage

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare the work site, level the wall opening, remove debris and transport the door unit to the installation site. The plaster is removed from the inner surface of the doorway, the remnants of the foam and dust are removed (it is recommended to treat the walls with a primer like "Betonkontakt").

The primer neutralizes construction dust and strengthens the material of the treated surface

Most often, doors are transported assembled, in wooden or cardboard packaging.

There should be no furniture or foreign objects in the installation area. The door leaf must not encounter any obstacles during opening.

Frame installation

Before installing the door frame, it is necessary to separate the leaf from it. This is achieved by detaching the hinges - by removing or unscrewing, depending on the type of awnings. Further actions are performed in the following order.

1. The frame is installed in the doorway and preliminary alignment is carried out. The threshold is firmly placed on the floor, and vertical posts are located along the wall. Depending on the project, the frame is aligned to one of the planes of the doorway. To save internal space, apartment metal doors are usually mounted on the outer plane of the opening (opening outward). But it is not forbidden to install it in the middle of the wall, when the distance from the frame to the edges is approximately the same.

   

   The location of the door frame is selected according to the specific conditions on site

2. The frame is fixed in position using wooden or plastic wedges. The threshold is set strictly horizontally, according to the level of the finished floor, the side posts - in two vertical axes: in the plane of the door (along the leaf) and in the direction perpendicular to it.

3. Anchors are installed - without a full tightening, only a strap. Then the door leaf is suspended and the final alignment of the frame is carried out. In this case, you should pay attention to the width of the gaps between the canvas and the edges of the frame. If installed correctly, the slots will be the same size everywhere. A sign of a good installation is the stable position of the door leaf when opening. The door does not swing open or close on its own, but easily moves under the control of a human hand.

   

   If there are no mounting holes in the door frame, drill them yourself

4. Having finally set the position of the door frame, the canvas is removed and the frame is fixed thoroughly. It is important at this stage not to overtighten the threaded connections. Some installers, out of inexperience, tighten the nuts with all their might, while deforming the sidewalls, which will adversely affect the operation of the door later. In order not to be mistaken, you need to measure the tightening force with changes in the verticality and straightness of the rack. Experienced craftsmen break the operation into two circles, the first time tightening the bolts half-heartedly, and the second time with maximum effort. Let us remind you once again that the diameter of the mount must be at least 10 mm, the length must be at least 15 cm. The procedure for tightening the mount is as follows:

   • the middle anchors of the posts are tightened;
   • the upper and lower anchors of the sidewalls are twisted;
   • two bolts are fixed on the threshold;
   • the fasteners on the upper crossbar are tightened.

5. The gap between the frame and the wall is filled with foam, mineral wool or other filler. Complete drying of the foam occurs after 24 hours, but installation can be continued after the surface layer has set (30–40 minutes). To improve adhesion and speed up drying, the gap is moistened with water before pouring the foam.

   

   Wall and frame surfaces can be moistened with water before foam application to improve adhesion

Door leaf installation

The installation of the door leaf must be carried out by two people, since this is the heaviest structural element. If the hinges are hinged, the canvas in the open 90 ^° position in relation to the frame is raised above the canopies and put on from above. If the hinges are internal, the door is connected in accordance with the installation diagram. For convenience, one or more boards are placed under the lower edge of the canvas as a support.

After mounting the door frame, a metal sheet is hung on the hinges

Installation of fittings

The last stage before finishing is the installation of control hardware: door lock, handle, peephole and door closer. If all these elements are present in the kit, then the instruction manual will necessarily contain a detailed diagram and installation instructions.

The set of factory-made doors has all the necessary accessories

Finishing

Finishing work consists of installation of platbands and installation of slopes. Platbands hide all unsightly areas and decorate the exterior of the door. Slopes serve the same purpose, but have a different structure, since they are installed in the recess of the doorway. In addition, the slopes significantly increase the strength of the entire structure if they are made of cement mortar. On the inside, ready-made plastic panels or drywall sheets are often used as slopes. This solution facilitates installation, but in the interests of strength, it is better to give preference to full-bodied slopes, consisting of solidified cement with sand. To strengthen the slopes, reinforcing mesh made of metal or synthetic fiber is used.

The rest of the depth of the doorway is closed with additional elements, and platbands are installed on the front side

Features of installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

Modern apartment buildings are made of bricks or prefabricated reinforced concrete blocks. There are also combined standard projects. But in any case, when installing a metal door in such houses, you have to deal with stone walls. All the information given above applies to just such apartments.

The only important reservation that needs to be made concerns the preparation of the doorway in panel houses. The fact is that the walls, consisting of cast reinforced concrete, are strictly forbidden to groove, cut or split. This leads to disturbances in the distribution of the static load of the entire building as a whole and can have unexpected consequences. For example, there were cases when floor slabs were displaced as a result of slotting of block walls, and the building was transferred to the category of emergency. Excessive vibration while working with a puncher spreads throughout the house and sometimes leads to cracking of glass on the windows and other unpleasant consequences.

For these reasons, when preparing a doorway in a panel house, it is strictly forbidden to expand the dimensions of the hole in the wall. If it is not possible to select the required standard size of the door for the existing opening, the only correct solution would be to manufacture the door block according to an individual project. However, if the opening is large, and the door is planned to be smaller, you can narrow down the dimensions using brick or block masonry.

Reducing the size of the doorway can be done using brickwork

Video: installing an entrance metal door in an apartment

Features of installing an entrance metal door in a wooden house

A wooden house differs from a stone one in that in the first few years after construction, it gives significant shrinkage. The wood gradually dries up and shrinks in size. This leads to a reduction in the size of the building as a whole by 3-5%. Ideally, in order to install an iron door in a log house without any problems, you need to wait several years. But in our time, such a period is an excessive luxury. Therefore, an original technology was invented for plastic windows and metal doors.

Within several years after construction, the wooden elements of the house dry out and decrease in size, as a result of which the door and window openings change their geometry

The bottom line is that a free space is left in place of the upper plank, which will gradually be filled with drying wood. To compensate for vertical deformation, the metal frame is joined with the wooden partition of the log house through a special bar - a carriage.

The procedure will be as follows.

1. Carriages are cut to the height of the doors. Grooves 5–7 cm deep are cut along the middle of each bar. A bar of 150x100 mm is used for cutting.
2. With the help of a chain saw, thorns (about 5–6 cm wide) are cut out on the side surfaces of the doorway of the log house. The final finishing is carried out with chisels, with their help the shape and size are adjusted.
3. Tow or any other synthetic sealant is attached to the spikes with metal brackets.
4. Pre-prepared carriages are installed on top of the tow. The tenon slides easily inside the groove.
5. A metal door is attached to the carriages according to the standard technology. In this case, you must leave a gap of 1 cm on the sides and 8-12 cm on top. The fixation is done vertically and on the threshold.

6. All the remaining gaps are filled with a sealant (tape tow), after which the finishing is done - platbands and fittings are mounted.

   

   For fastening the doors, carriages are used that move during the drying of the wood

After 3-4 years, when the structure settles, the gaps are cleaned of tow and filled with polyurethane foam.

Video: installation of a metal door in a wooden house

Features of installing an entrance metal door in aerated concrete

Foam and aerated concrete blocks are widely used in the construction of low-rise buildings. Light weight, low cost and excellent heat-insulating properties contribute to the popularity of this material among developers. However, everyone knows the weak point of blocks - their porous structure. A nail hammered into a wall of aerated concrete is pulled out by hand without much effort. How to fix a metal door in such conditions?

The way out is quite simple and logical. If the binding to the wall is not reliable enough, then you need to strengthen the frame. In the case of foam concrete, it is customary to design a double frame for an iron door. Moreover, the distance between the outer perimeter of the frame and the inner one is equal to the thickness of the wall made of foam blocks.

The double frame covers the entire aerated concrete wall and strengthens its structure

Thus, the door frame is held in the opening not only due to special anchors, which increase in size when the screw is screwed in, but also due to the structure covering the entire thickness of the wall.

When screwing in the screw, the lower part increases in volume and expands the anchor inside the wall

Additional decorative elements are used to refine the interior space of such a frame. Rough parts of the frame - metal corners - are faced with wood or MDF panels, while the appearance of the doorway takes on quite presentable outlines. The air space under the extrusions serves as an additional obstacle to freezing and noise penetration.

Video: installing an iron door in aerated concrete

Installation of accessories to the entrance metal door

Accessories play an important role in the correct operation of the door. The ease of use and service time of the door depends on how the locks, handles and closers are mounted.

Installation of locks in an iron door

The locking device is a major obstacle to violent burglary. Therefore, special attention is paid to it. The following tools are required to install the lock:

• screwdriver;
• drill with a set of drills for metal;
• screwdriver with replaceable heads for various slots;
• screws and self-tapping screws;
• a set of files and files;
• core, taps for threading;
• LBM (Bulgarian) with a disc for metal.

Of the whole variety of locks for metal doors, only three types are used.

1. Built-in. They are mounted inside the frame of the door leaf, they are installed during industrial assembly under the skin. Self-installation is not practiced.

   

   To install a built-in lock, you need to have access to the inner space of the door

2. Overhead. As the name suggests, this is an external type of lock, the mechanism of which is fixed on the door leaf (on the inside of the door).

   

   Surface lock is mounted on the surface of the door leaf

3. Mortise. Locks located inside the canvas, from which the material is partially removed.

By the type of locking mechanism and the level of secrecy, the following lock systems are distinguished:

• disk;
• crossbar;
• levers;
• electronic;
• magnetic;
• cylinder.

For self-installation, cylinder and lever locks are considered the most suitable. Magnetic and electronic locks require special equipment for debugging and alignment.

Installing a mortise lock

Consider the procedure for installing a mortise lock.

1. The position and location of the lock is determined. The recommended height is 90–140 cm from the floor.
2. The core marks the boundary of the excavation. With the help of a grinder, the inner part of the hole at the end of the door leaf is cut out. The edges are processed with a file, burrs and sharp edges of the saw cut are removed.
3. The lock is inserted into the hole, the attachment points are marked with a marker. Holes are drilled in the marked places (usually from two to four). Threads are cut with taps. The selection of the thread pitch is carried out depending on the screws available.

4. The location of the keyhole exit and the handle drive from both sides of the canvas is determined. The lock is applied to the door leaf, the required points are marked with a marker.

   

   The holes for fastening the lock are drilled with an electric drill

5. The holes are drilled with a margin of a few millimeters, the sharp edges are rounded off with a small file to avoid cuts and abrasions on the hands.

6. Installation and fixation of the lock in the door is carried out. The operation of the mechanism is checked.

   

   After installing the lock, its mechanism is fixed with a bolt included in the delivery

7. The mating part is cut out on the frame. To do this, mark the exit point of the lock bolts and make a corresponding hole on the side post of the door frame.

8. After checking the operation, the lock is lubricated, and a counter plate is attached to the frame.

   

   The counter plate is designed to hold the locking elements inside the door frame

Video: how to properly embed a lock into a metal door

Installing a patch lock

For those who intend to install the lock on their own, information on installing a patch lock will be useful. The procedure is somewhat different from the previous one.

1. Overhead locks are placed slightly higher than mortise locks - the distance from the floor is about 140–160 cm. The lock case is applied to the door leaf at the installation site and its boundaries are outlined.
2. Mark the locations of the mounting holes. Marking is done with a marker or a sharp screw.
3. Pins are installed on the canvas for fastening the lock.
4. A through hole is drilled to exit the well from the outside. The hole size is taken with a margin of a few millimeters. The edges are rounded off with a file.
5. The case is removed from the lock, the mechanism is installed in the selected place and fixed. At this stage, you need to check the operation of the lock. If there is no difficulty, the mechanism is lubricated and the body is mounted.
6. On the outside of the canvas, a protective decorative strip is installed (on screws or screws).
7. On the rack of the door frame, the location of the mating block is marked. The crossbars must fit exactly into the holes, so extreme care must be taken when measuring and marking.

8. Holes are drilled in the frame, in which the threads are cut for the installation of the mating block. After preliminary fitting, the block is firmly fixed with screws.

   

   The surface lock is installed at a height of 140-160 cm from the floor and is fixed on pins or on a bolted connection

Video: installing a patch lock on a metal door

How to properly install a door closer on a metal door

When choosing a closer, they use a classification according to the width of the doors and the power of the power unit (spring or hydraulic mechanism). The correct choice plays an important role in the subsequent operation of the door. There are seven types of door closers:

• 75 cm - 20 kg;
• 85 cm - 40 kg;
• 95 cm - 60 kg;
• 110 cm - 80 kg;
• 125 cm - 100 kg;
• 140 cm - 120 kg;
• 160 cm - 160 kg.

The first number indicates the width of the door leaf, the second - the weight of the door leaf. In addition, door closers are divided according to the drive fixation point (inside or outside the door).

1. Concealed design. The spring is located inside the hinges.
2. Bottom fixation. It is rarely used, since the operation of such devices is difficult.
3. Top fixation is the most common type. The mechanism is visible, easy to maintain and adjust.

Installation of a door closer is a simple matter, especially since its kit necessarily includes installation instructions. All fastening materials are included, as well as templates in 1: 1 scale, with which the marking is made.

Here is a typical step-by-step instruction for installing a door closer (for example, NOTEDO DC-100).

1. The template is attached with tape to the surface of the door and marking is made on it.

   

   The holes for the door closer are drilled according to the template that is included in the delivery

2. Holes are drilled with a drill of the required diameter.

3. The closer is dismantled - the lever is split into two parts.

   

   The door closer is fastened to the door with standard screws

4. The power unit ("shoe") is installed on the door leaf along the prepared holes. The other part of the arm is attached to the frame.

5. The arm length is adjusted according to the attached instructions. When the door is closed, the door closer lever should be perpendicular to the leaf.

   

   In the closed position, the closer lever should be located perpendicular to the door leaf

Video: instructions for installing a door closer

How to install a handle on a metal entrance door

The way the handle is mounted depends primarily on its type and design. Today, the variety of products in this category of goods is simply immense. Handles are stationary and rotary. The former are fixed with countersunk screws so that the handle cannot be twisted from the outside. To install the rotary handle, you must make a through hole through the door leaf. The sequence of actions is as follows.

1. The installation point is measured. The handles are fixed at a height of 1–1.1 m from the floor and 10–15 cm from the edge of the canvas.
2. Depending on the design of the device, holes of the required diameter are marked and drilled for fastening.
3. The swing handle mechanism is installed, the outer and inner levers are connected.
4. Before installing the decorative overlays, the operation of the handle is fully checked, the moving parts are lubricated.
5. Installation is completed by tightening the fixing screws from the inside of the door.

The installation sequence of the rotary handle of a metal door is described in detail in the instructions for its installation.

As you can see from the instructions above, simple locksmith tools and an electric drill with a set of drills are needed to install the handles. Additionally, you will need screwdrivers for screws with different slots (flat and cross-shaped). Each door handle model comes with a detailed description and installation diagram. Before starting installation, it is advisable to study them carefully.

How to repair slopes after installing a metal door

The appearance of the opening after installing the front door can hardly be called attractive. To hide the traces of installation work, facing work is carried out on the inside and outside.

Decorative slopes hide unsightly sections of the wall after installation work

Where it is impossible (or not enough) to install platbands, slopes are mounted.

Slopes can be made of the following materials:

• plastic panels;
• MDF;
• drywall;
• a layer of plaster;
• decorative stone or tiles.

To make slopes from cement mortar, you need to purchase a ready-made dry sand-concrete mixture. All information on the method of preparation of the solution is contained on the package. The time and sequence of preparation of the mixture are detailed on the bag.

The order of work will be as follows.

1. Beacons are installed along the perimeter of the door. You can use ready-made products or adapt wooden slats for this. The convenience of metal beacons lies in the fact that after the plaster hardens, they can be left inside the slope.

   

   Beacons and corners are attached with a quick-hardening solution of alabaster

2. Painting corners are attached to nails, staples or alabaster solution along the outer perimeter. The fixation must be reliable, since a rule or a spatula will stretch along the corner.
3. The cement slurry is kneaded until a thick consistency is achieved. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed with an electric mixer so that there are no dry lumps in it.
4. The surface of the wall is treated with a primer. It is preferable to use formulations of deep penetration, this will further increase adhesion.

5. After the primer has dried, a mortar is poured onto the walls with a trowel, gradually filling the space between the beacons. When the solution becomes enough, the excess is pulled together along the beacons with a spatula or a short rule.

   

   A layer of plaster is covered with a fine-dispersion putty

6. The operation can be broken down into several stages. This is allowed when the internal volume of the slopes is large. If the break in time lasted more than a day, before applying a new layer, the previous one is abundantly wetted with water. The side planes are filled first, and the upper part is plastered last.
7. After the plaster has dried, a thin layer of putty is applied on top, which removes minor defects and levels the surface of the slopes to an ideal shape.

8. The last stage is painting or tiling. All types of ceramic tiles, natural stone or tiles fit perfectly on the leveled slope.

   

   After plastering, the slopes can be tiled

Video: do-it-yourself door slopes

How to attach extensions to a metal entrance door

A very practical way of facing the inner surface of the doorway after installing the doors is the method of decorating with extensions. Decorative panels can be of any color and texture, so this finish can harmoniously fit into any interior. There are various types of accessories created from natural and synthetic materials:

• metal;
• MDF;
• PVC;
• wood.

The most widespread are products from MDF, since their price is low, and the assortment is huge. On sale there are addons for all occasions. But having at your disposal ordinary planed boards in the required quantity, you can make extras yourself.

With the help of extensions, you can quickly and efficiently design a doorway

The cladding material is fastened in different ways:

• on liquid nails;
• using a groove connection;

• onto the support frame.

  

  Simple door fittings are fastened with groove joints and glue

Whatever the fastening, the procedure for facing work is the same.

1. Side planes are cut out. As a rule, their sizes are the same, but the shape is different (mirror-symmetrical).
2. The sides are fixed on the slopes.
3. The upper part of the extrusion is being made.
4. The top end is mounted between the sidewalls. It attaches both to the upper slope and to the sides.

5. The corners are treated with a sealant to match the material.

   

   In the extended opening, the extensions are assembled using glue, screws and an additional frame

If there is an opportunity (or a need), insulation is laid under the extras. This will create an additional obstacle to freezing the door during the cold season. Mineral wool or foam rubber is used as insulation.

MDF docks can be easily and quickly mounted on a pre-installed frame

Dismantling an entrance metal door

The need to dismantle a metal door arises when rebuilding or renovating old buildings. The procedure for removing a door from metal is similar to dismantling any door. However, a metal door is a structure of increased strength, so you need to approach its disassembly wisely.

1. The door leaf is removed from the hinges. If a door closer is installed on the doors, it must be disconnected. First, the lever is dismantled (the screw connecting the drive rods is unscrewed), then the sash is removed from the hinges. If the hinges have an internal structure, they are unscrewed, if hinged, the canvas must be raised to the height of the hinge. To do this, the door leaf is open at 90 ^on and, resting his arm on the floor, lift.

   

   A lifting lever is used to remove the door leaf mounted on hinged hinges

2. After removing the canvas, they begin to dismantle the door frame. Unscrew all screw connections and release the fasteners. The best helpers in this procedure are a hammer drill and a grinder. It is customary to disassemble from the bottom up:

   • the sill mounts are released. They are twisted or cut off with a grinder, depending on the condition. If the doors are no longer in use, the threshold can be cut at the junctions with the side posts. This will weaken the rigidity of the structure and make it possible to loosen the vertical parts of the frame;
   • using a crowbar or a hammer drill, the side posts are alternately bent away from the wall. At the same time, all the pins that hold the door in the opening become clearly visible. The metal fasteners are cut with a grinder. After that, you can cut the sidewalls themselves, if this makes the dismantling process easier;
   • the upper crossbar is dismantled. If the installation was carried out according to the rules, then the upper part of the frame is supported by at least two anchors (but there may be more). For the convenience and safety of the work, a ladder or goats is mandatory. It is forbidden to remove the metal elements of the door while standing under them.

Most often, when disassembling metal doors, difficulties arise with slopes. If they are made of high-quality concrete mortar, then during dismantling work you will have to sweat a little and swallow dust. It is possible to destroy such slopes only with a powerful hammer drill with a sharp chisel at the end. During work it is necessary to use a respirator, goggles and gloves. Breaking the slopes at the top is done with extreme care, from a stable ladder or trestle.

Video: dismantling the old front door and installing a new one in 30 minutes

No matter how tempting the saving of money when installing metal doors on your own, do not forget about the services of experienced specialists. The craftsmen doing this work every day are fluent in assembly technology and know all the pitfalls and installation features. In addition, even the most perfect self-installed door is not covered by the warranty.