British Shorthair Cat: Description Of The Breed, Possible Colors, Behavior And Care, The Choice Of A Kitten, What To Call A British

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 12:53

British shorthair cat - truly English nobility

The rise in popularity of British cats has been driven by cat food manufacturers showing fluffy, strong handsome men on TV. Rounded cheeks, thick fur and the impression of an ivy bear from childhood, a balanced and calm disposition - thanks to these qualities, 30% of Russian families choose a representative of this breed as their companions.

Content

• 1 Origin of the breed
• 2 Breed standards

• 3 Colors of British cats

  • 3.1 Solid colors (solid)
  • 3.2 Tabby
  • 3.3 Bicolor
  • 3.4 Tricolor
• 4 The nature of British cats
• 5 Diseases of British cats
• 6 Love affairs

• 7 How to choose a kitten

  • 7.1 8 rules for purchasing a kitten:
  • 7.2 Nicknames for the British
• 8 Caring for a Briton

• 9 Toilet training

  • 9.1 Fillers
  • 9.2 Location of litter box
• 10 Proper nutrition
• 11 Owner reviews

The origin of the breed

The history of British shorthair cats is inextricably linked with the name of Harrison Wyar, a London animal painter and founder of felinology. This remarkable man held the world's first cat show at the Crystal Palace on July 13, 1871. Of course, in those days they did not think about any breeds and pedigrees, the exhibition, by and large, was just a huge gathering of people who brought their pets in cages to show them to the same lovers. Skeptics predicted failure for Weir, but the event, on the contrary, was a resounding success.

Founder of the world's first show of cats and breed "British Shorthair"

In the same place, in the Crystal Palace, Weir introduced to the world his short-haired cat, the Old Lady, who, being at the age of 14, nevertheless became the winner in her class.

The first "British" pedigree appeared only 18 years later, in 1889, in a white cat. The breeders got down to business, enthusiastically selecting for breeding strong individuals with a dense coat, heavy bones, rounded full cheeks and a thick rounded tail. The breed was finally formed in the 20-30s of the XX century, however, during the Second World War, all achievements were practically lost. To restore the breed in the post-war period, animals from Europe, America, Russia were used, and in 1966 the British breed was formed with a familiar exterior.

Breed standards

The modern Briton is a large animal, with a dense short hair that is not adjacent to the body, rounded cheeks, widely spaced eyes and a large nose, small rounded ears, and a short tail thick at the base. In view of the wide-ranging selection work, cats of this breed are champions in the number of permissible colors.

The body is squat, cobby-type (from the English cobby - stocky), the back is straight, short. The chest, shoulders and hips are massive and broad. Sizes are medium to large. Height at the withers - about 33 cm.

Weight - a normal, not overfed British cat should weigh within 5–8 kg, a cat - 3-5 kg, in spayed individuals the weight can reach 7–10 kg (cats) and 5–8 kg (cats).

The head is round, with full cheeks, wide cheekbones and a short neck, one of the characteristic distinctive features of the breed. The nose is straight, wide, short, and passes into a wide, rounded forehead. The ears are small, rounded, set low.

The eyes are large, round, set wide apart. Blue British cats can only have golden-amber to copper-colored eyes, in this case blue and green colors are not allowed. For the rest of the British, the color of the eyes directly depends on the color of the coat: cats of white color have blue, green and copper eyes, and they are often heterochromic (different colors of the right and left eyes in combination with blue - copper). British chinchillas can have emerald green eyes, while color-point eyes are blue.

Feet are short, thick and strong. The tail is thick, of medium length, with a wide base, uniform thickness and a round end.

The coat is short, shiny, dense, with a thick undercoat.

Colors of British cats

The British Shorthair breed is distinguished by a rich variety of colors, more than 200 color variants have been registered.

Solid colors (solid)

The most popular color among British cats is "blue" - it comes to mind when this breed is called. Classic-colored kittens look very attractive and do not lose this quality even when they are growing up.

It is he who is associated with the name of the breed.

There is a black and chocolate version, but the latter, the heritage of Persian cats, is quite rare and difficult to breed.

This coat color is a legacy of the Persian lines in the pedigree.

Black kittens in adolescence may not look very pretty, the color of the coat is more like gray with a shade, gaining saturation and depth only in adulthood.

Looks very solid and effective

A variant of the chocolate color is the rare lilac.

This option is also gaining popularity

Tabby

The color is with spots and stripes spread throughout the body. This variant is considered to be the oldest typical for "wild" cats. Stripes, spots, including on the muzzle, outlined eyes and the letter "M" on the forehead are signs of this type.

It is also called the "kitten from advertising"

There are tabby mackerel ("tiger" thin parallel stripes on the sides), classic tabby or marble tabby (wide stripes on the sides, legs and tail - rings, belly and chest in spots, on the back there are stains), and spotted tabby (without stripes, whole body in rounded spots).

The main differences are the streaks on the sides and parallel stripes on the back

Among British cats, the most famous variant is the gray tabby and also the red tabby. Sometimes there is a tabby "cinnamon" (English cinnamon - cinnamon).

The color really resembles cinnamon

Bicolor

The color is characterized by the presence of a large dark zone (top, back, head, tail) and a smaller white zone (belly and legs).

Gray and white is the most common option

It should also be noted the variant of the color "tabby with white" - the back, head and tail in stripes and spots, belly and legs are white. Black and white bicolor

In the past, such color options have gained popularity Lilac with white bicolor

Tricolor

By analogy with the previous version, only in the dark zone spots of two colors alternate, for example, black and red.

Red, gray and white colors

The nature of British cats

Already in the very phrase, you can catch the main character traits of this breed - calmness, poise, aristocracy, strength and endurance - everything equally applies to cats and to the British themselves. The British are sociable, affectionate, patient, easily get along with other animals and children. They are affectionate, often meet the owners on the doorstep and follow them from room to room, waiting for the moment to settle on their knees. They have a pronounced sense of their own dignity, do not tolerate familiarity. Due to its light character, calmness and stable temperament, as well as the absence of special problems in grooming the coat, this breed can be called a “cat for a businessman”. Ideal for people who spend a lot of time at work.

British shorthairs are restrained in showing emotions, sometimes it takes a lot of time and tact for a cat to "open up" and start behaving openly.

Pros.

1. The easy-care wool saves time.
2. Calm and balanced character makes cats excellent companions.
3. Due to aristocracy, the British are extremely clean, they know the tray very well, do not use furniture for claw points.
4. They are moderately active, do not need constant games with the owners, they easily find something to do themselves.

disadvantages

1. Do not restrict the movement of the cat around the house, close doors and isolate the animal.
2. Not suitable as a "toy" for children, remembers offenses and does not allow himself to be impolite.
3. There is a fair amount of stubbornness in the character, it is simply impossible to force a Briton to do what the cat does not want. In the case of coercion, cats can, after a while, take revenge on the owner, refuse to eat, demonstrating offended dignity in every way.

My friend asked me to find new owners for a British kitten, which she had previously unsuccessfully given to a family where a child of 6 years old lived. Unfortunately, the kid perceived the cat as a new toy, and the parents did not regulate their relationship in any way. As a result, the cat returned to the hostess with severe psychological trauma and cannot stand children at all.

The balanced and calm nature of the British makes them almost ideal pets. They are easy to educate, almost from the first time they get used to the tray and the specific place of the bowl of food. Excessive tenderness is alien to this breed, cats do not like excessive affection, preferring to keep some distance between themselves and humans. Their affection for the owners is expressed in the constant following people around the house, willingness to support the game. However, these cats understand and maintain distance very well. The British do not choose favorites in the family, they treat all members equally equally. They are patient, they can play with children for a long time and willingly, but they will never allow themselves to play. They are not aggressive, rarely flirt and release their claws. The best way to interact with this breed is equal, partnership, without familiarity,excessive "lisping" and "squeezing". The British are indifferent to children, not singling out small family members and preferring the company of adults to them. They can play with pleasure, but they are not allowed to violate their own boundaries. When you try to pull out the mustache or drag the tail along the floor, the cat will most likely run away to a secluded place and sit there, and later will bypass the offender, without showing aggression.

For this they do not need your participation - they may well come up with a game for themselves

The British do not like to sit on their hands, preferring to be near. They are not ready to communicate with strangers, preferring to observe from the sidelines. They do not show aggression when a new person appears in the environment.

Due to their aristocratic nature, cats of this breed can patiently endure the presence of a dog in the house. The best relations between representatives of two species develop when a kitten and a puppy were taken into the house almost simultaneously, worse - if a dog's cub was brought to a family with an adult cat. In the latter version, the cat, of course, will take offense for a while, but an independent and calm disposition will take up, and the animals will quickly become friends. It is much more unpleasant when a kitten is brought to an adult dog. The dog initially perceives him as an object of hunting and will constantly violate the cat's personal space, which is unacceptable for the British. In this case, the owner must take upon himself all the burdens of resolving conflicts between four-legged pets. If the situation arises,when two adult animals fell into one family and are forced to put up with each other's presence, there is no need to wait for a special friendship. The Briton will simply tolerate an unpleasant neighbor, without showing aggression, but also without special disposition.

Diseases of British cats

All diseases can be divided into three types:

• genetic;
• specific;
• are common.

Genetic disorders are associated with the fact that cats of the British breed simultaneously have two blood groups - A and B. The disease manifests itself in kittens in the first days after birth, when a newborn, together with mother's milk, can receive antibodies to its own blood group. The disease is asymptomatic, cannot be cured, it develops in the first week. If the kitten after this period continues to feel good and eat, then it is genetically healthy.

Specific diseases of the British are associated mainly with the genitourinary system. The best prevention of violations is timely hygiene, quality litter for the tray and a balanced diet. If the owner noticed that the cat began to visit the litter box often or too rarely, and urination is accompanied by meowing, these are clear signs of urolithiasis.

Panleukopenia is feline distemper, a dangerous viral disease that a cat can pick up upon contact with a sick relative. The disease affects the gastrointestinal tract, reduces leukocytosis, and is accompanied by fever, fever, and dehydration. For humans, the disease is not dangerous, but the cat can be protected by vaccination.

British people often suffer from obesity and related gastrointestinal problems, but with a balanced diet that includes the necessary vitamins and minerals, overweight problems can be avoided.

Common diseases common to all breeds are tartar, worms, respiratory infections, nail fungus. They can be avoided with proper care, preventive vaccinations, deworming and bathing at least once every six months.

In general, the British are the owners of excellent health, with care and adherence to the diet, the stomach is on average 12-15 years old, castrated individuals - 3-4 years longer.

Love affairs

Puberty in the British reaches about the seventh month of life, this immediately affects the behavior - the cat begins to meow loudly, tries to mark the territory and even use soft toys to satisfy its own needs. When the cat is not planned for breeding - after the first spree, you can safely castrate it. If there is confidence in further breeding, at the first signs of concerts that have begun, you should not frantically look for a bride - loud cries are only an indicator that the cat has become sexually mature.

In cats, the first heat begins at 5-7 months and can last from 3 to 7 days. The cat becomes “unlike itself”, its behavior changes (either too affectionate, or unusually aggressive), it meows loudly, lifts its tailbone, rolls on the floor, and when stroking its back, its tail hangs sideways. At the first heat, the owner observes the cat and records its duration. It is not recommended to knit a cat at the first estrus, since her body has not yet matured, she will not be able to bear full kittens. The frequency of leaks depends solely on the hormonal background of the animal, the interval between estrus can be from 2 to 6 months. If the cat is intended for breeding, already during the first estrus it is worth thinking about choosing a suitable partner.

The owner of the cat deworms the animal in advance, cuts the claws on the front legs, and also prepares a "camping set" - bowls for food and water, a familiar carrier for the animal, a tray with the usual filler, food for 5-6 days. When a second heat occurs, the cat is brought to the cat and left for several days. Acquaintance can be accompanied by the aggressive behavior of the female, she makes sharp sounds and can hit the cat with her paw - that is why it is recommended to trim her claws so as not to injure her partner. As a rule, the cat's first nesting takes place at night, success can be judged by the morning behavior of the animals - they lie nearby, the cat can lick the cat, which has ceased to show active sexual interest in her friend. The most favorable period for mating is the middle of a cat's cycle, and regardless of whetherwhether conception took place or not, the cat's estrus will continue.

It is not possible at first to determine whether a cat has become pregnant when meeting a cat. The behavior of the British is very stable, and changes are noticeable only towards the end of the first month. The cat has enlarged nipples, which can be felt in the thick fur on the belly. Pregnancy lasts 65–70 days, by the end of this period the cat begins to eat intensively, becomes more sleepy, calm and relaxed.

Signs of close births are active movements of the kittens. If the owner noticed that, even when the cat is lying, its belly sways and shudders sharply, it means that 3-4 days are left before giving birth. British cats, due to their good health and physique, give birth safely on their own, they do not require the help of specialists. However, it is still worth having a veterinarian's phone number.

To make the fluffy pet feel comfortable, you need to prepare a “maternity hospital” for her - a box with an open top measuring about 50 * 70 cm, a set of disposable absorbent nappies that change as it gets dirty. The owner keeps on hand sharp scissors (treated with boiling water), paper towels, vaseline oil and a needleless syringe (used if the fetus is too large and difficult to travel through the birth canal).

After the end of childbirth, it is necessary to cover the box with a clean diaper, cover it halfway so that the cat does not interfere with light and extraneous sounds. The box should be placed in a secluded corner; it is important to ensure that no drafts reach the newborns.

How to choose a kitten

If you decide to purchase a British Shorthair kitten, look for a specialized cattery or a good breeder. Pedigree kittens cannot be bought from the metro, the poultry market or the pet store. Buying a kitten from reputable producers is a guarantee of a long life for the animal. The optimal age for a kitten is 3-4 months, at this time it can already feed on its own, is accustomed to a tray and a scratching post, has a stable psyche and can easily endure the stress of a change of residence. First you need to decide on the sex of the animal.

If you do not plan to give your pet for breeding, you only need it for the company - be sure to sterilize the animal. Sterilization is the only option to preserve the physical and mental health of the animal in the absence of sexual partners from time to time. Drops and tablets, which are sold in assortment in zoo pharmacies, harm the cat's health, negatively affect its hormonal background and are of low efficiency.

At this age, he can be safely taken away from his mother.

It should be borne in mind that sterilization operations for cats and cats are different, in this case cats undergo abdominal surgery and recover 10-12 days, while cats - 2-3 days. Operations also differ in cost - castration of cats costs in the range of 1000–2000 rubles, sterilization of cats - 2000–4000 rubles.

When choosing a pet, be sure to pay attention to the appearance. A healthy cub is playful, has a shiny coat, clear eyes, clean ears, and is not afraid of strangers. The quality of wool does not matter much - only in blue breeds, kittens almost from birth have a densely stuffed fur coat inherent in adults. Striped or marbled colors in childhood have separate guard hairs sticking out over the main fur, and only during adolescence does the wool acquire a texture characteristic of the British.

Before buying, you also need to decide on the class of the animal. There are three of them:

• Pet - cats for home keeping, not involved in breeding
• Breeding - animals for breeding
• Show - cats of the highest class for participation in exhibitions and shows.

If you do not plan to become a breeder and participate in exhibitions, a Pet-class kitten is quite suitable for you. They are the cheapest you can buy from breeders or nurseries. Show-class cats are much more expensive than the previous ones, they rarely appear on the free sale, usually breeders keep them for themselves in order to improve the breed.

When buying a kitten, be sure to look at the place where the cat family lives. The apartment must be clean, well-groomed, without foreign odors. Do not agree if the breeder insists on bringing the baby to your home - perhaps the animals were previously kept in poor conditions, and the risk of getting a sick or weakened kitten increases.

Healthy kittens are cheerful, easy to move, play with pleasure and are not afraid of strangers

The former owner must give a dowry to the kitten - the amount of the usual food for 4–5 days and the litter for the tray for the same time. The presence of an animal's passport indicating the vaccinations made is required. The pedigree includes four generations of ancestors with full names and an indication of the breed, for the British it is the letters "BRI" under each of the names. If the letter designation is different, then the kitten is not purebred. Even if you don't need the pedigree of your future furry friend, in any case, buy a kitten from trusted breeders, this is a guarantee that the baby will be healthy, and you can always get advice as needed.

A good breeder always gives the animal away with the condition of tracking further fate. If the seller did not take your contacts and did not mention a word about the opportunity to learn about the animal, this is a reason to be wary.

8 rules for purchasing a kitten:

1. The appearance demonstrates health, the coat is shiny, fluffy, the eyes and ears are clean, without traces of pus and inflammation, the gums are pink, the belly is not inflated.
2. Behavior - playful, without fear, free movement, the kitten is moderately active, not sleepy.
3. Age - not less than 3 months, not older than 6 months.
4. Always buy a kitten in person, coming to the place where the mother and cubs are kept. The apartment or room should be clean, without foreign smells, the parent should be healthy and calm.
5. Before buying, carefully study the breeder's data, read forums, specialized sites, reviews of friends or people who have already purchased the animal from this seller.
6. The kitten has a veterinary passport and primary vaccinations.
7. The fact of the purchase of the animal is confirmed by an agreement, one copy of which remains with the owner of the cat, the other with the buyer.
8. The breeder should give you some food and litter for the tray (for 4–5 days) so that the transition to the new diet is painless.
9. Ask the breeder for the telephone number of the veterinarian who is observing the feline family - such a “family doctor” who has been treating a mother cat for many years knows everything about the nature and diseases inherent in this particular line.

The cost of a kitten of this breed ranges from 2,000 to 30,000 rubles, depending on the class and pedigree

The price for a Briton can range from 2,000 to 10,000 rubles for a baby without a pedigree, and go up to 30,000 for a purebred exhibition specimen. The color of the baby greatly affects the price - blue, red and tabbies are cheaper than bicolors or rare color-points.

Nicknames for the British

Names should reflect their character, independence and English origin. Such a kitten "Barsik" does not dare to call the language. You must understand that a Briton will not respond to "kitty-kitty", he should be called only by his first name. Many owners of cats of this breed note that they often want to say "sir" or "lady" before the name.

Here are some examples of nicknames for cats: Alex, Aston, Arnie, Asher, Buggy, Velvet, Bump, Barton, Blue, Bert, Billy, Biu, Bloomax, Blake, Bradford, Bruno, Backs, Benji, Barney, Bucks, Batman, Gray, Jack, Dylan, Dixon, Dorian, Dave, Dammy, Dexter, Hermes, Irwin, Luis, Marcel, Martin, Marley, Max, Murphy, Norton, Onyx, Patrick, Pete, Smokey, Stanley, Stilton, Stitch, Sydney, Smokey, Theo, Thomas, Toby, Toffee, Tyler, Thomas, Harley, Felix, Flynn, Fray, Chester, Choco, Elvis, Eddie, Ashton.

Names for British women: Basti, Betty, Becky, Blackie, Brandy, Bunn, Darley, Dove, Daisy, Gemma, Diva, Dotty, Jess, Jade, Jasmine, Ivvy, Kyra, Kimmy, Crystal, Clover, Corrie, Candy, Kimmy, Kludy, Laura, Libby, Lizzie, Luna, Mini, Molly, Maddy, Midi, Mia, Mandy, Misha, Miranda, Paris, Patty, Piggy, Pipa, Pixie, Rozzie, Roxy, Splly, Sophie, Soda, Stella, Cybill, Smokey, Tabby, Tara, Tasha, Tiffanny, Tina, Fiji, Flory, Flossy, Frutti, Phoebe, Chloe, Holly, Cherry, Chelsea, Sheila, Sheila, Chanel, Shanti, Abby, Apple, Ella, Emmy, Yasmina.

Caring for a Briton

1. Bathing - once every 6 months with the use of cat shampoo. Cats are wary of water, so you need to teach the animal to swim gradually, calming it down in the process. Make sure that no water gets into your ears. When finished, wrap the animal in a warm terry towel to absorb excess moisture. It is not necessary to dry the coat with a hairdryer, but make sure that there are no drafts in the room where the cat was bought out, and the air is warm and dry.

2. Combing wool - once a week, except during shedding periods. For combing, use bristle brushes, single-row metal brushes or rubber-coated gloves. The main purpose of brushing is to remove dead guard hairs without damaging the undercoat. The British do not form tangles, so slickers or plastic combs are not used, they injure the animal's undercoat too much. It is necessary to accustom the kitten to the combing procedure as early as possible, accompanying the elements of the game. First, combing goes along the wool, then against it. At the end of the procedure, wet hands can be passed over the body of the animal to collect the separated lint. During moulting periods (spring and autumn), you will have to work with wool once every 2-3 days.

   

   It is necessary to train the kitten to this procedure very carefully.

3. Nail care. Clipping can be done at your veterinarian's or at home on your own using a pair of tweezers. It is important to carefully cut the tip of the claw without touching its pink part, otherwise bleeding will begin and the kitten will be hurt. Carefully examine the claws, the appearance of a white coating, stratification indicate a malnutrition or the appearance of a fungus.
4. The eyes are wiped once a week with a cotton pad dipped in warm boiled water, or with special napkins sold in pet stores. You can use drops like "Diamond Eyes" for disease prevention. The eye is rubbed from the inner edge outward, until the traces of discharge disappear.
5. The ears are cleaned as they become dirty, this is a purely individual process. Be sure to do this after the bath to remove any moisture that has got inside. For this, a cotton swab is used, which is inserted no deeper than 1 cm so as not to touch the eardrum. Check your animal's ears regularly for sores, dark patches, or sores. If you find plaque, it is recommended to clean the auricle with a cotton swab moistened with petroleum jelly or prophylactic ear drops. If everything is in order with the auricles, the cat does not show signs of anxiety, does not rub its head - nothing needs to be done, frequent hygiene procedures can disturb the microflora of the ear and cause irritation.

Toilet training

No matter how the breeder praises the kitten's intelligence, ingenuity and household skills, you should not expect that when he gets into the apartment, the baby will figure out where his toilet is. Breeders usually give the kitten's usual filler, but showing where the tray is, and even taking it there several times after eating is the concern of the new owners. It is necessary to take the kitten to the toilet immediately after eating, you will have to spend some time nearby to see if the pet has done all its business where it should be. If it doesn't work the first time, it doesn't matter, the situation is stressful for the kid, he got into a new house, where there are no familiar landmarks, so he gets confused. Patience and affection work wonders, and in two or three days the baby will have the right process.

It happens that a kitten, regularly visiting the tray, suddenly "gets lost" and makes a puddle near the front door. You should not poke his nose right away, think - maybe guests have recently come to you? Cats instinctively mark their territory, and if someone else's smell appears in the house, the kittens worry and try to make it “theirs”.

Excipients

This product tops the list of things your pet needs, pushing aside even food. Wood, from clay, silica gel, coal - the range is designed for any needs and wallet. However, you should not use fillers with chemical additives and fragrances - the toilet for the cat must smell like a toilet, otherwise it will not go there. The filler can be absorbent (absorbs liquid and odor, retains its shape, changes completely every few days) and clumping (gathers into a lump, which is then removed with a special scoop, without affecting the bulk of the tray). Clumping litter is suitable for adult cats, singular, absorbent - multi-cat household.

For small kittens, clumping litters are not used, especially from clay, as the baby can swallow it, and digestive problems are inevitable. It is best to check with your breeder which filler has been used previously and choose a similar one.

Clay litter for cat litter can be clumpy or absorbent. It works well for cats as cats naturally use sand or dirt.

Bentonite clay litter absorbs better than conventional clay litter and forms good lumps.

The advantages of such a filler include naturalness, a variety of types and forms, it is good to dig in it. Disadvantage - often dusty, not suitable for allergic cats.

Wood filler is made from coniferous sawdust pressed into pellets of different sizes. It is considered the most environmentally friendly, besides, it smells nice of pine needles.

The advantages include a pleasant smell, environmental friendliness, the ability to use to throw it into the toilet, safety for kittens. Minus - cats often carry it on their paws around the house.

Silica gel cat litter has the best absorbency, but it cannot be called environmentally friendly. Great for adult cats, not recommended for kittens.

The advantages of such a filler are excellent absorbency, cost effectiveness, the ability to use for several cats at the same time, ease of replacement. Cons - it cannot be used for kittens, some cats are unpleasant to step on it.

Cat litter location

The shape of the litter box does not really matter for the animal itself; rather, it meets the aesthetic needs of the owners. On sale there are trays of all shapes, sizes and colors. It is best to place the tray in a bathroom or toilet. Make sure that there are no shelves on top, paper holders that can dump the fluffy on the head at the most inopportune moment, scare him and forever turn him away from the toilet in this room. The door to the room with the tray should always be ajar so that the cat has 24-hour access to the toilet. Change the litter in a timely manner, the British are clean and may refuse to visit a dirty litter box. When hygienic processing, do not use products with aromatic additives, so as not to kill the cat smell and not to disgust the cat to the toilet.

Proper nutrition

From the age of 6–7 weeks, kittens are already able to take solid food, from that time on, their diet changes. At the age of 3-4 months, babies are already completely on solid food.

Proper nutrition is the key to cat health

Cat food can be arranged in two ways.

1. Industrial feed - wet and dry. They contain all vitamins and minerals necessary for the proper development and health of a kitten. Wet food is available in cans or soft bags weighing from 100 grams, contain up to 80% water, it is better to use them for feeding babies up to 8-9 months of age. The food is soft and does not scratch the kitten's esophagus, it is easy to chew and digest. From 9 months of age, you can transfer the kitten to dry food - croquettes. They contain only 10% moisture, so it is necessary to ensure that the animal has plenty of clean drinking water. Eating dry food and chewing hard lumps has an abrasive effect on tartar, which the British tend to form. You should not get carried away with wet food, this will lead to the appearance of plaque on the teeth and weakening of the gums.
2. Food from a home diet. Feeding your cat properly “off the table” is not as easy as expected. The menu should be dominated by meat products with the addition of cereals and vegetable fibers. So that the cat does not suffer from a lack of nutrients, regardless of the set of products, it is recommended to additionally give complex supplements containing vitamins and trace elements.

In the process of growing up, watch how the baby grows, how much he gains in weight. With proper nutrition, the weight gain should be 10-15 grams per day.

Below is a table of correspondence between the height and age of the kitten

Age	1 month	2 months	4 months	6 months	9 months	12 months	24 months
Weight, kg	0.5-0.7	1.2-1.5	2.0	3.0	4.0	5.0	6.0

The numbers are average, since weight and monthly gains are determined by genetic predisposition. The developmental features of a kitten can always be found out from the breeder.

When feeding homemade food, the diet should contain:

• lean meat (required after heat treatment): chicken, rabbit, beef;
• liver;
• cereals such as rice, oatmeal, pearl barley
• vegetables: carrots, cabbage, potatoes.

Can't feed:

• fatty meat, pork;
• fried or stews from your table;
• spicy, salty foods;
• bread.

Upon reaching the age of one year, the animal can be transferred to a two-time feed intake.

Owner reviews

British Shorthair cats are one of the easiest breeds to care for. They are smart, calm, non-aggressive, balanced and easily find an approach to each member of the family. Compliance with simple rules for care and proper feeding is the key to the health and good mood of a pet.