Raspberry Tree Tarusa: Planting And Care, Description And Characteristics Of The Raspberry Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Raspberry Tarusa: a tribute to fashion or a wonderful raspberry tree?

For 25 years, gardeners and summer residents have been enjoying the beautiful view and berries of the wonderful standard Tarusa raspberry. The variety was bred by the professor of the Moscow Institute of Horticulture V. V. Kichina in 1987, and went on sale in 1993. Let's find out what attracts berry lovers in this raspberry tree: a tribute to fashion, an unusual appearance or an advantage over other varieties.

Content

• 1 Description and characteristics of raspberry Tarusa

  • 1.1 Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
  • 1.2 Video: planting Tarusa in the nursery

• 2 Features of planting varieties Tarusa

  • 2.1 Site selection and planting material

  • 2.2 Planting raspberries

    2.2.1 Video: planting raspberries Tarusa

• 3 Plant care

  • 3.1 Cropping

    3.1.1 Video: raspberry plantation after pruning

  • 3.2 Watering
  • 3.3 Top dressing

  • 3.4 Shelter for the winter

    3.4.1 Video: how to properly tie raspberry shoots

• 4 Pest and disease control

  • 4.1 Table: pests, diseases and control measures

    4.1.1 Photo gallery: raspberry pests and diseases

• 5 Harvesting
• 6 Reviews of gardeners about the Tarusa variety

Description and characteristics of raspberry Tarusa

Tarusa is the first Russian, non-stick, dessert, mid-late raspberry of the standard type. It cannot be confused with other varieties, even in appearance. The dark green leaves from a distance resemble a velvet outfit, and the sturdy stem is distinguished by a rich brown color. Although the standard raspberry is far from a real tree, it can grow up to two meters.

The shoots of Tarusa are powerful and strong, but under the weight of the harvest they can wilt

The bright red berries of this variety have a blunt-conical shape, paired fruits are often found. With excellent care, they reach a weight of up to 16 g, have an incredible aroma. The pulp is juicy, but not very sweet. With excellent care and good weather conditions, the harvest from a bush can reach up to 4 kg of berries and more, and up to 20 tons per hectare. Gardeners are pleased with the excellent presentation of Tarusa fruits, since they are dense and are transported without damage.

The bright red Tarusa raspberries can take on a ruby hue if there were many sunny days during the ripening period

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Among the positive characteristics of the variety are:

• the possibility of growing without supports;
• high productivity;
• large size of berries;
• frost resistance;
• resistance to diseases and pests;
• lack of thorns;
• decorativeness.

Disadvantages:

• takes up a lot of space;
• gives few offspring for reproduction;
• low taste characteristics of berries.

Thanks to tough and resilient shoots, the bushes are not damaged by the wind and can grow without support. The breeder V. V. Kichin himself still advises tying the plants to a wire at a height of 120 cm from the ground. Most gardeners do without special supports and trellises in order to reduce the cost. This allows you to cultivate Tarusa in the field and easily take care of the plantings.

On a standard tree, 5-6 shoots are left for fruiting. As a result, a lot of flower stalks are formed on the bush, and later - ovaries and fruits, which contributes to obtaining a larger yield than from conventional raspberry varieties.

The peculiarity of Tarusa not to give many basal offspring is an advantage for some gardeners, and a disadvantage for others. It's no secret that selling seedlings can sometimes earn more than selling berries. Therefore, the variety is more suitable for growing in order to sell the fruit.

Video: planting Tarusa in the nursery

And one more fact in favor of the merits is an unusual type of standard raspberry. The bushes are beautiful at any time, especially when they are blooming and bearing fruit. Therefore, many summer residents grow this variety for the sake of decorative qualities. Sometimes Tarusa plantings replace hedges.

Features of planting varieties Tarusa

This variety of raspberries can be planted throughout the fall until the very frost and in the spring (until the end of April). In the southern regions, the best planting time is autumn, because due to the dry climate in the spring, young plantings can die. Young offspring appearing in May-June can be transplanted in summer, while regularly watering.

Site selection and planting material

For planting a raspberry tree, areas with nutritious, loose soil, which are well illuminated by the sun, are selected. The earth is dug onto a shovel bayonet and thoroughly loosened. For 1 m ² make:

• 2 buckets of rotted manure (or rotted plant residues);
• up to 200 g of nitroammophoska;
• 0.5 l of wood ash.

Tarusa seedlings should be chosen very carefully. They should be young, with a fresh, well-developed root system, and have annual shoots at least 8 mm thick. Planting material should be checked for the presence of fungi and diseases by carefully examining the bark of the trunk and leaves.

Planting raspberries

It is better to plant Tarusa in a tape manner. To do this, the site is divided into strips 60 cm wide. For plants to feel comfortable and well ventilated, the row spacing should be 1.8–2 m. Rows are formed in the direction from south to north for better lighting. The distance between the seedlings is 60–70 cm.

The planting process consists of the following steps:

1. Dig a hole 40x40 cm and a depth of 35 cm.
2. Rotted manure (1.5 kg) is placed on the bottom, mixed with the ground.

3. Water (2 l) is poured into the hole and a seedling is placed. The root collar of the plant is buried in the hole no more than 3 cm so that the shoots from the buds can freely hatch from the soil.

   

   If the seedling is not in a container, then when planting, the roots will need to be carefully straightened along the planting pit, while container ones are planted without destroying the clod of earth

4. Holding the seedling with your hand, sprinkle the soil. As it is poured, watering is done 2 more times (1.5 liters each) for better soil subsidence.

   

   The planting hole is covered with earth, keeping the seedling upright

5. After planting, all the leaves on the trunk are removed, and the shoot itself is cut off, leaving up to 30 cm above ground level.

   

   After planting, you need to tear off the leaves and cut off the top of the seedling

6. Mulch the soil around the trunk. Without this agrotechnical technique, the raspberry plant will not fully develop and bear fruit.

   

   Seedlings are mulched with natural materials: peat, hay, banana peel, potato peels

Video: planting raspberries Tarusa

Only in the third year after planting, the standard tree at the beginning of summer will give shoots that can multiply it. It is recommended to change the landing site every 9 years.

Plant care

Although the standard raspberry is considered an unpretentious plant, you need to work hard to get a high yield.

Pruning

In the spring, the tops of the shoots of Tarusa are pinched in order to obtain the main part of the harvest before the first autumn frosts. If you skip this simple procedure, most of the berries will not have time to ripen.

Video: raspberry plantation after pruning

After the tree has borne fruit, all two-year-old shoots are cut out. They are clearly visible in color. The dark ones are removed, and the green replacement shoots are left. They also pinch the tops so that new twigs appear from the leaf axils next year. In total, no more than seven shoots are left per bush.

Fruit-bearing raspberry shoots are cut at ground level in the fall

Watering

The Tarusa variety is demanding for watering. If you don't moisturize your raspberries regularly, you will get little benefit this year and beyond. During the flowering and fruiting period, it is recommended to apply half a bucket of water under the bush 2 times a week. Water sparingly so as not to overdo it: excess moisture leads to root rot.

In dry autumn, it is necessary to do water charging. In early November (before frost), the raspberry is poured with water so that the plants are stocked with moisture.

Top dressing

To get a good harvest, the raspberry tree is fertilized three times.

• Experienced gardeners recommend that the first feeding be carried out even on melted snow, when there is a lot of moisture in the soil. For this, 15 g of urea (carbamide) are used per 1 m ².
• The next top dressing is at the end of March. Organic fertilizers are used, 4 liters per bush (mullein solution in a ratio of 1: 8, chicken droppings - 1:20). This starts a growing root system.
• The third top dressing is done during flowering. Nitroammofoska is introduced (30 g per 1 m ²).

In addition, they use preparations for better ovary and quality of berries. Good reviews about liquid micronutrient fertilizer Boroplus, which processes raspberry bushes three times:

• before flowering;
• after flowering;
• after the formation of the ovary.

Shelter for the winter

Tarusa is the record holder for frost resistance among raspberry varieties. Plantings can withstand cold temperatures down to -30 ° C. Therefore, it will be completely superfluous to cover the raspberry standard trees for the winter in the central and southern regions. In the north, the raspberry shelter is made in early October, until the branches break and bend well to the ground.

Linked raspberry branches should be at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground

First you need to remove all the leaves, then tilt 2 neighboring bushes towards each other and fix the top of one plant at the base of the neighboring one. Do not bend the shoots too low, this can break off the stem at the base. The optimum height is 30–40 cm from the soil surface. Under the snow, such raspberry bushes will be reliably protected from wind and frost.

Video: how to properly tie raspberry shoots

Pest and disease control

It is unpleasant when a wormy or a berry spoiled by a disease falls into the hands. To avoid such situations, it is worth following a number of agrotechnical rules:

• in the autumn and early spring, remove plant residues of weeds and leaves in the raspberry field;
• ruthlessly destroy the affected shoots;
• prevent the appearance of weeds, loosen the soil;
• do autumn digging between rows and between bushes in order to destroy pest larvae;
• timely destroy aphids and ticks - carriers of viral raspberry diseases;
• plant in row-spacings plants that repel insects (dill, velvet, calendula, tansy).

It is impossible to completely avoid cases of damage to standard raspberries by fungal and viral diseases, as well as damage by pests.

Table: pests, diseases and control measures

Pest, disease	Description and nature of the defeat	Processing period	Control measures
Stem gall midge	The larvae accumulate under the bark, forming swellings. The damaged areas of the shoots dry up.	During flight and egg laying	treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water); treatment with Actellik (1 ampoule (2 g) per 2 liters of water); destruction of places of accumulation of larvae; removal and burning of the affected part of the shoots.
Stem fly	Black, drying shoots, withering tops of the bushes are the result of the activity of larvae making labyrinths in the stem to its very base.		treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water); treatment with Karbofos (0.1% emulsion); destruction of shoots to the ground.
Raspberry beetle	The beetle first destroys the leaves and buds, and later the female pest lays one egg in each berry.	5-6 days before flowering	treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g per 10 liters of water); treatment with Actellik (1 ampoule (2 g) per 2 liters of water); collection and destruction of beetles.
Purple spot	Purple spots appear on annual shoots and leaves, which eventually turn into black balls. Plants die.	early spring; after harvesting berries.	treatment with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid (300 g per 10 liters of water); treatment with a 0.4% solution of Polycarbacin (40 g per 10 l of water).
Gray rot	All plants are affected by rot, buds crumble, berries rot.	Early spring (before flowering)	spraying wood ash, crushed coal around the bushes; removal of affected shoots; treatment with Topaz (10 ml per 10 l of water).
Chlorosis	The shoots become weak, the berries become smaller and dry out. Leaves wrinkle, turn yellow.	Fall	lowering the acidity of the soil by introducing limestone sand (1 kg per m 2); exclusion of stagnant water around the shoots.

Other chemicals can be used. For example, in the fight against pests of raspberries, the drug BI-58 has proven itself well. Gardeners recommend treating plants with a 0.15% solution twice (in mid-May and after the end of fruiting).

Do not forget about the folk methods of dealing with harmful insects: the use of infusions of plants with fungicidal and insecticidal properties. An easy-to-prepare garlic infusion helps in the fight against both pests and fungal diseases of raspberries:

1. Chop 200-300 g of garlic leaves, arrows or cloves and add 5 liters of water.
2. Leave for half an hour in a closed glass container.
3. Strain the mixture and sprinkle on the raspberries.

Photo gallery: pests and diseases of raspberries

Gall larvae are found in characteristic swellings on the raspberry stem

Perforated raspberry leaves - only the beginning of the harmful activity of the raspberry beetle

Leaves and shoots affected by purple spots dry out

Gray rot develops in high humidity conditions

A small stem fly can destroy an entire raspberry bush

Chlorosis-affected leaves turn yellow

Harvesting

The first fruits of Tarusa appear in early July, and harvest ends in early August. In the south, fruiting can last until the end of summer. It is noteworthy that the standard tree gives a good harvest even when infected with diseases and pests.

Raspberries are harvested as soon as they ripen (every 2-3 days). Even if the harvest is delayed for 1 day, overripe berries fall to the ground. To give the fruits a beautiful appearance and extend the shelf life, they are plucked along with the stalk.

The fruits are suitable for fresh, frozen and canned consumption. Stored in the refrigerator for about 7 days. The best storage method is freezing (and it is permissible to use them for culinary purposes all year round).

Reviews of gardeners about the Tarusa variety

We can say with confidence that the popularity of the Tarusa raspberry variety is not only a tribute to the fashion for standard garden crops. No one denies that the varieties that appeared later surpass him in many qualities. But Tarusa was the first variety that caused a real boom among amateur gardeners and breeders. Even with some flaws, this little raspberry tree has more virtues. And the yield will depend on your desire to take care of the plant and properly care for it.