Ahimenes: All The Nuances Of Caring For A Flower And Growing It At Home + Photos And Videos

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Ahimenes: a living rainbow on your windowsill

Ahimenez is confidently winning the love of floriculture enthusiasts. The plant owes such popularity to its amazingly beautiful flowers with brightly colored petals. For five months the flower is literally strewn with them. Breeders are constantly breeding new hybrids with even more unusual coloring. However, in order to admire the tropical riot of colors, you should know some of the nuances of growing and caring for a plant.

Content

• 1 Appearance and other characteristic features of the Achimenes

  • 1.1 Varieties found in indoor floriculture

    • 1.1.1 Achimenes, found in nature, in the photo
    • 1.1.2 Photo Gallery: Achimenes bred by breeding

• 2 How to create an optimal microclimate for a flower?

  2.1 Suitable growing conditions during the active growing season - table

• 3 Features of landing and transfer

  3.1 How to plant achimenes correctly - video

• 4 Important nuances of caring for Achimenes

  • 4.1 Watering
  • 4.2 Fertilization
  • 4.3 Features of plant care - video
  • 4.4 Flowering

  • 4.5 Rest period and exit from it

    4.5.1 Preparing a plant for a dormant period - video

• 5 Mistakes typical for a beginner grower

  5.1 How achimenez signals mistakes made - table

• 6 What pests will you have to face?

  • 6.1 Ways to control insect pests - table

    6.1.1 Harmful insects in the photo

• 7 Reproduction at home

  • 7.1 Rhizome division
  • 7.2 Germinating seeds
  • 7.3 Cutting
  • 7.4 Rooting cuttings of achimenes - video
• 8 Reviews about the cultivation of Achimenes

Appearance and other characteristic features of the Ahimenes

Achimenes is a group of small bushy plants belonging to the Gesneriaceae family. It also includes the well-known home violets (Saintpaulias) and gloxinia. During flowering, the similarity is indeed very noticeable, but in achimenes, the flowers are larger and the color range is richer. About 20 natural varieties are known, but there are many times more breeding hybrids.

Ahimenes exists in a humid tropical climate, therefore, is not used to cold weather

Under natural conditions, the plant is found in the South and Central American rainforests (Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, Mexico, Panama, Guatemala), as well as on the islands in the Caribbean. Achimenes is no different in size. Even in natural conditions, bushes rarely grow above 30-50 cm. For indoor floriculture, this is an additional plus. Stems, leaves (on both sides) and petioles are covered with a soft short "nap". Young plants have erect stems, not too intensively branching. They droop with age.

The leaves of achimenes are similar in shape to nettles, but more rounded and slightly denser, although still quite thin. On the stem, they are arranged symmetrically, opposite each other. Above, the leaf plate is emerald green, shiny, underneath in many varieties it is dark red or purple.

Achimenes leaves are also pretty cute, but the main charm is not in them

But the main decorative value of achimenes is in flowers. It is difficult to imagine such a color that breeders would not be able to reproduce - from snow-white, vanilla and cream to inky purple, almost black. Sometimes Ahimenes are even classified according to the color of the petals into white, yellow, orange, pink, red, blue, purple. The variegated (with a border, spots, stripes), double varieties and flowers with fringed petals look even more impressive.

Achimenes collection is a real treat for the eyes of a florist

The diameter of the five-petalled flower reaches 1.5–6 cm, depending on the variety. The lifespan of each of them is short, but the plant constantly releases new buds, so flowering continues from May to October. The petals are rather noticeably bent back, the upper two are slightly smaller than the others, the corolla is long, tubular.

A slight asymmetry does not spoil the flowers of achimenes at all

Achimenes has a superficial root system and very interesting rhizomes in the form of unopened cones or birch or alder "catkins". Botanists call them rhizomes. New rhizomes are formed every season, so there will be no problems with reproduction.

Achimenes rhizomes are very interesting

Varieties found in indoor floriculture

"Real" Ahimenes are rare in home floriculture. But this does not make them less beautiful. Nature may well rival the achievements of breeders.

• Achimenes longiflora (longiflora). Shrub about 30 cm high. The stems hardly branch, the leaves are lanceolate, up to 9 cm long. The flowers are large (5-6 cm in diameter), are arranged singly, the petals are bluish-lilac, strongly bent, at the base they are yellowish.
• Achimenes grandiflora (grandiflora). A fairly sprawling flower grows up to 60 cm in height. The leaves are about 10 cm long, along the edge of the top there is a reddish border, grouped in three. The flowers are bright scarlet.
• White Ahimenes (candida). Height is about 25 cm, shoots are very thin, drooping. The flowers are small (1.5 cm in diameter). Inside, the petals are creamy, at the base - yellow, outside there is a reddish tint in the form of the finest stripes.
• Achimenes erecta. Stems and veins on the bottom of the leaves are reddish. Flowers less than 1 cm, pale red.
• Achimenes heterophylla. The "pile" on the stem is burgundy and coarser than other varieties. Flowers about 5 cm, yellow at the base of the petals abruptly changes into all shades of flame.
• Achimenes is bright red, or crimson red (coccinea). The shoots are thin, hanging, the edge on the leaves is almost absent. The flowers, as the name suggests, are bloody scarlet.
• Achimenes Mexican (mexicana). Below is a beet-colored leaf plate, above it is dark green. The height of the bush is no more than 30 cm. The petals are purple.
• Ahimenez Ehrenberg (Ehrenbergii). Atypical representative of the genus. The leaves are ovoid, lettuce-colored, the pile below them is very thick, like cotton wool. The flowers resemble bells of a pale lilac color.

Natural Ahimenes, pictured

Ahimenes longiflorum - the main base for breeders' experiments

Flowers of large-flowered achimenes are not inferior in size to breeding hybrids

Ahimenes white looks very elegant

Achimenes erect does not differ in the size of flowers, but there are a lot of them

Achimenes varifolia flowers resemble miniature bonfires

The one who gave the name to bright red achimenes did not become very wise

Achimenes Mexican is well suited for ampel cultivation

Ahimenez Ehrenberg is quite different from "relatives"

How many breeding hybrids of achimenes exist is not known exactly. All of them have poetic names. Therefore, the most difficult task for a grower is often to make a choice.

Photo gallery: Achimenes bred by breeding

Abendrot, even among the Achimenes, stands out for its abundance of flowering, tolerates bright light and direct sunlight

Abyss - a compact but intensively branching bush, white rhizomes with a burgundy "shadow", the base of the petal is leopard

Aurora Charm - a large-flowered hybrid with white rhizomes and purple undersides of leaves, crimson-pink petals with fringed edges and bluish-lilac "mesh"

Icy Volga is a small bush, intensively branching, in a suitable microclimate, bluish and bluish stains appear on the snow-white petals, similar to ice

Alter Ego is a double variety with flowers 5–6 cm in diameter, the color of the petals depends on the conditions of keeping - from light blue to almost purple, the stems are purple, drooping, the rhizomes are pinkish-white

Ambroise Verschaffelt - one of the oldest hybrids: erect stems, slightly numb in adult plants, burgundy brown rhizomes

Belinda - fuchsia fringed petals with a leopard base, ampelous

Big Bang is a common ampelous variety with lilac flowers, if not for the center of the corolla - a bright yellow, lightening spot along the edges "streaked" with thin stripes of black, purple, chocolate

Blue Swan - dark leaves that seem black from a distance, and pale blue petals, closer to the center of the flower, the shade smoothly turns into pastel yellow or cream

Blueberry Lemon - semi-double or double flowers, the petals shimmer in all shades of yellow and are covered with lilac spots, as if the paint had been shaken off on them

Bianco Natale is a terry variety with very large snow-white flowers (when the temperature in the room decreases, ink-purple spots and stripes appear on them), rhizomes are also white, egg-shaped

Dame De Paris - very dark leaves and snow-white flowers with a bright pink border and a yellow base of the petals (the variety is ideal for ampelous cultivation, even in young plants the stems are slightly numb)

Yellow English Rose - from a distance, the flowers can easily be mistaken for miniature roses: the petals are corrugated, with a fringed edge (under the bright sun, a very pure yellow color will quickly fade)

Last Dawn is an upright bush, intensely branching, double flowers, medium-sized, but very bright, iridescent with shades of scarlet, crimson, crimson

Lemon Orchard - lettuce-colored leaves with an unusual silvery sheen, bright lemon petals with a pastel pink border (sometimes a bright pink "mesh")

Made In Heaven - very large double flowers of lilac-blue color, leaves are light green, slightly corrugated, the plant is erect

Nightfall is a double-flowered variety with very dark cherry-colored petals on the inside and inky on the outside (the darkest flowers in existence)

Sauline is an upright bush, medium-sized flowers (2-3 cm), but amazingly beautiful (the pastel yellow shade at the base smoothly turns into lilac-pinkish, the petals are dotted with small bright pink specks)

Peach Cascade - the variety is suitable for keeping outdoors, depending on the microclimate, the shade of the petals is peach, salmon, apricot, orange, pink-orange (there is a variety of Peach Cascade Improved with larger semi-double flowers)

Sabrina is an erect bush no more than 20 cm high, the petals are crimson-pink outside and yellowish inside, dotted with the smallest maroon dots, the leaves are purple below

Serge's Revelation - the record holder in terms of flower diameter (about 7 cm), the petals are blue-purple, the base is yellow-brown

Serge Saliba is a compact plant with “chameleon” flowers (the initial bright orange color under the influence of light, temperature, humidity turns into a soft salmon, apricot, terracotta, pinkish)

Strawberry Lemon - lemon petals with a noticeable greenish tint and a bright strawberry border (the bush is very powerful and spreading, sometimes it even needs a garter)

Tropical Dusk - an amazing combination of pink, lilac and orange tones smoothly turning into each other, the petals seem to glow (medium-sized flowers, salad green leaves)

Etienne Andersson is a terry variety, rather small leaves and hanging stems, does not suffer even from direct sunlight (petals in all shades of pink-orange and coral)

Aquamarine - purple underside of the leaf plate, white rhizomes, drooping stems, petals shimmer with all shades of blue, darkening towards the base

Côte d'Ivoire - one of the smallest hybrids, the petals are almost mother-of-pearl, ivory (the yellow color at the base flows smoothly into a lilac border, the edges of the petals are slightly corrugated)

Rosa Charm - intensively branching bush, erect stems, pink petals with purple veins and a bright yellow base

How to create an optimal microclimate for a flower?

The homeland of Ahimenes is hot and humid forests, so it will not work to completely imitate the natural microclimate at home. But it is quite possible to create conditions close to optimal.

Suitable growing conditions during the active growing season - table

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Sill window facing southeast or southwest. Shading from the hottest midday sun is a must. In summer, the pot can be taken out to the balcony, loggia, veranda, protected from bright light and rain.
Lighting	Bright, but diffused light and rather long daylight hours (at least 10 hours) are desirable. The lighter the leaves and the brighter the petals, the more carefully you need to protect the plant from direct sunlight. Breeding hybrids may have their own specific requirements - read the description carefully when purchasing.
Temperature	Optimum temperature - + 22… + 25 ºС, permissible - + 18… + 20 ºС. +15 ºС and below - the flower will inevitably die. The temperature must be kept more or less constant.
Air humidity	The most suitable indicator is 85–90%. It is raised in all available ways. In this case, in no case should moisture be allowed to get on the leaves and buds, pour it into the pan of the pot. The best option is to put a beautiful container with water, wet moss, pebbles, coconut "washcloth" next to achimenes, create a "company" for him from other plants.

Features of landing and transplantation

Achimenes' transplant is an annual procedure. During each growing season, new rhizomes are formed, the pot quickly becomes cramped. The optimal time is the first decade of February.

The root system of achimenes is superficial, so the plant does not need a voluminous deep pot. A container that looks like a bowl or salad bowl is more suitable.

A pot for achimenes is preferable shallow and not "for growth"

The flower prefers light soil with good aeration, in which water does not stagnate. The soil for flowering indoor plants is quite suitable, but there is an alternative:

• Leafy humus, fertile sod (top 10-15 cm of soil), coarse river sand (4: 2: 1).
• Special soil for violets (Saintpaulia), turf soil, leaf humus, perlite or vermiculite (2: 3: 1: 1).
• Universal soil for indoor plants, peat chips, crushed charcoal (6: 2: 1).

If desired, chopped sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, bone meal, crumbs from old red bricks or dry manure, chopped shell rock (1:10) are added to any ready-made substrate. The first two additives increase the looseness of the soil, manure increases its nutritional value, the rest saturate with calcium, which Achimenes loves very much.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The rhizomes are removed from the old pot, cleaned of the soil and inspected for damage.
2. Large rhizomes are cut into several parts with a sharp disinfected knife so that at least one growth point (“eye”) remains on each of them. Sections are dried in the open air for 3-4 hours, sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.
3. Whole rhizomes are dipped in water at room temperature with several crystals of potassium permanganate for 15–20 minutes and also dried.
4. The pots are filled with drainage (1/4 of the volume) and fresh soil (up to 3/4 of the volume), slightly moisten the soil.
5. Rhizomes are laid out on the surface of the soil, 3-5 in each pot. This way you can create the illusion of greater "bushiness". They need to be gently pressed into the soil.
6. The rhizomes are sprinkled with a layer of earth 2–2.5 cm thick, again watered not too abundantly and placed in a warm place (+ 18… + 20 ºС).

Achimenes transplant is a simple procedure, at the same time you receive planting material for reproduction

How to plant achimenes correctly - video

Important nuances of caring for Achimenes

Ahimenez is quite undemanding to care for, but he gratefully takes any care of the grower. This is especially true for feeding and proper handling during "rest".

Watering

It is very important to find a middle ground between waterlogging and overdrying the soil. If conditions are maintained, it is sufficient to spill the pot to the bottom (until bubbles appear) every 3-4 days. After 25-30 minutes after watering, the excess water is drained.

Water for irrigation is used rain, thawed or tap water softened with citric acid (several crystals per 10 liters) and heated to 23–25 ºС. In any case, it is defended for at least a day. Do not allow drops to fall on leaves, buds and flowers.

Fertilization

Ahimenes will be delighted with the complex feeding for flowering plants

The flower is fed only during the active growing season. The first time the fertilizer is applied 1.5 months after germination. Then enough watering with a solution of liquid mineral fertilizer every 12-15 days. The composition must necessarily contain calcium. Another option is urea (1.5 g), potassium sulfate (0.5 g) and simple superphosphate (1 g) per 3 liters of water.

During flowering, you can feed the flower weekly. Alternation with organic matter is acceptable - infusion of cow dung diluted with water 1:15. 1.5 months before the onset of the rest period, feeding is stopped.

Features of plant care - video

Bloom

Flowers are the main value of achimenes. You can prolong flowering as much as possible if:

• regularly cut the flower stalks, on which most of the buds have already faded and dried;
• protect the plant from direct sunlight;
• avoid a sharp drop in temperature, even for a short time;
• gently spray the air at a distance of 25-30 cm from the pot;
• establish supports for too spreading and powerful bushes.

Pinching increases the number of shoots, respectively, and the number of buds

Rest period and exit from it

Ahimenes has a pronounced rest period. Its beginning is evidenced by yellowing and falling leaves. When you notice the first signs, gradually reduce watering. When there are no leaves left, it must be completely stopped.

Dried (dried, not withered) stems are cut, leaving about a quarter of the length. Rhizomes, if desired, are transferred into a mixture of sand and peat chips or small chips, or they are not touched at all. The container with rhizomes is placed in a dark place where a constant temperature of + 13… + 15 ºС is maintained. Once every 15–20 days, the soil is sprayed or every month it is carefully spilled along the edges.

With excessive winter watering, the flower will come out of hibernation ahead of time and not sufficiently strong. You don't have to wait for flowering. If this does happen, provide it with bright light for 10-12 hours a day by placing fluorescent lamps at a distance of 35-50 cm from the flower. So achimenes will develop normally. The described trick (abundant watering and sufficient lighting afterwards) is used to make the plant bloom by the required time. But it is not recommended to abuse the reception.

5–7 days before the proposed transplantation, the rhizomes are brought out into the light, the temperature is raised by 2–3 ºС.

Cut only completely dried achimenes, otherwise the rhizomes will not be able to accumulate enough nutrients

Preparing a plant for a dormant period - video

Mistakes typical for a novice florist

To destroy Ahimenes completely is a rather difficult task. But deviations from the rules of care are also undesirable. The plant may lose its decorative effect or refuse to bloom.

How achimenes signals mistakes - table

Description of the problem	Probable cause
The leaves are covered with beige spots, then holes are formed in these places.	Too cold or hard water is used for irrigation.
The buds, without opening, dry and fall off, the leaves curl.	The room is excessively hot.
Stems and petioles are covered with gray-brown, rapidly spreading and blackening spots, soft to the touch.	Over-watering, often combined with low temperatures.
The same situation, only on the leaves.	When watering, water gets on the leaves.
The stems become longer and thinner, the leaves become smaller, the intervals between them increase.	Ahimenez lacks light. This is especially true for varieties with dark leaves and flowers.

What pests will you have to face?

There are no specific pests that arrived with Ahimenes from his historical homeland. You will have to fight the most common insects.

Insect pest control methods - table

Pest	Symptoms	How to deal with the problem?
Aphid	Small insects of light green or yellowish color literally dot the leaves from below. At the same time, a sticky transparent discharge appears. The buds do not bloom at all, or the flowers become smaller, deformed.	Good prevention is a regular flow of fresh air and timely removal of dried stems and fallen leaves. The soul of Ahimenes will not stand, therefore, visible individuals are removed with a damp cotton pad dipped in 10% ethyl alcohol or alcohol tincture of calendula. Severely damaged stems are easier to cut off completely. Then the pallet and the pot are sprayed with an insecticide (Decis, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Karate, Fas, Iskra-Bio) and a plastic bag is put on top, sealing it as tightly as possible. A day later it is removed. The treatment is repeated 2-3 times, alternating preparations. For prophylaxis, a container with an infusion of any sharply smelling greens (marigolds, wormwood, tansy, tomato and potato tops) is placed next to the flower. In winter, onions, garlic, tobacco, citrus peels are suitable.
Thrips	Small whitish flying insects suck sap from leaves. Translucent areas in the form of small dots are clearly visible on the lumen on the leaf plates. The leaves become discolored and become silvery.	The larvae are removed by vacuuming the flower. Severely damaged leaves and flowers are cut off completely. Adhesive fly tape helps against adults. It is advisable to transplant the plant as soon as possible, completely changing the soil, sterilizing the pot and pallet. In especially severe cases, use, as described above, Agravertin, Aktellik, Inta-Vir, Confidor, Mospilan, Spintor. Folk remedies - onion or garlic infusion, decoction of marigolds, yarrow.
Spider mite	The leaves are covered with small light spots, the petioles and flowers are entangled in the finest, almost transparent cobwebs. The buds and leaves dry, fall off.	For prophylaxis, regularly ventilate the room, increase the air humidity using available methods. The tick does not like ultraviolet light - it is useful to irradiate a flower with a quartz lamp every 3-4 days for 1.5-2 minutes. For prevention, the pot, the pallet and the adjacent area of the windowsill are periodically sprayed with infusion of horseradish rhizomes, dandelion, cyclamen tubers, tobacco crumbs, garlic, black henbane. The latter is very poisonous. Akarin, Apollo, Bicol, Vermitek, Neoron, Sunmite, Nissoran help to solve the problem. At least three treatments are carried out with different drugs. The hotter it is outside, the smaller the intervals between them.
Mealybug	In the axils of the leaves, at the base of the stems, in other hard-to-reach places, dirty white lumps appear, similar to pellets. In especially advanced cases, the soil moves away from the pot along the edge, a waxy whitish coating appears in this place.	Leaves and stems are wiped with an alcohol solution. Then a container with finely chopped garlic or onion, horsetail tincture is placed next to it and closed with a plastic bag, allowing the pests to breathe in pairs for 2-3 days. With the massive spread of the worm, Biotlin, Aktara, Calypso, Tanrek, Mospilan are used. Flowers are processed 3-4 times in 8-12 days, changing the preparations. Granules of Temik, Aldikarba are introduced into the soil during planting.

Harmful insects in the photo

Aphids can grow on almost all houseplants, Achimenes is no exception.

You need to fight both larvae and adult thrips at the same time

To combat spider mites, special preparations are used - acaricides

Mealybugs are easy to identify but difficult to get rid of

Reproduction at home

Reproduction of achimenes is not difficult even for a novice grower.

Rhizome division

Small rhizomes of achimenes need not be divided

The least energy consuming way. The planting material is obtained simultaneously with the transplantation of flowers.

1. Rhizomes or their parts are placed in pots filled with soil for adult plants, a little sprinkled with earth.
2. The pot is placed in a dark place with a temperature of + 18 … + 20 ºС. With the appearance of the first shoots, they are transferred to heat and light, protecting them from direct sunlight.
3. Upright grades require special supports. After 30–45 days after the emergence of seedlings, top dressing begins, at the end of summer, fertilizer with a high potassium content is mandatory. It promotes the ripening of rhizomes. Achimenes grown in this way blooms after 4 months.

Even a novice florist can handle planting the rhizome of achimenes

Germinating seeds

Since the plant blooms frequently and profusely, obtaining seeds is not a problem. It is necessary to wait for the formation of small green fruits. When they become soft (after about 2–2.5 months), the seeds are removed, dried and stored in a paper bag in a dark, cool place.

The best time to plant them is early spring. A significant drawback is that the varietal characteristics of breeding hybrids are lost. Basically, seed propagation is used by breeders to obtain new hybrids.

They do this:

1. A mixture of coarse sand is prepared with soil for violets or leaf humus (1: 1), shallow wide containers are filled with it, and well moistened.
2. When the water is absorbed, seeds are laid out on the surface of the substrate, slightly pressing them inward. You do not need to fall asleep on top.
3. The container is turned into a greenhouse, covered with glass or plastic wrap. It is ventilated daily for 3-5 minutes; as it dries, the substrate is moistened. It is convenient to use a large syringe for this. You also need to maintain the temperature at + 22 … + 25 ºС and provide bright light.
4. Seeds germinate in 15–20 days. With the appearance of each new pair of true leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into a large-volume container. After the third transplant, the plant is planted in an "adult" pot, cared for as usual. Flowering is expected in 2 years.

The result of the reproduction of achimenes by seeds is unpredictable, but it is very interesting to wait for it

Cuttings

The method is not very common, because the cuttings often rot during the rooting process. The best planting material is the lower and middle part of the stem.

Cutting is not always successful, but the varietal characteristics of achimenes will definitely remain

1. The stalk is cut with a sharp clean knife, dipped in a root formation stimulator (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin) for several hours.
2. Immediately before planting, the cut is sprinkled with powdered activated carbon.
3. The pots are filled with a mixture of sand (vermiculite, perlite) and peat chips, cuttings are planted, the container is covered with a glass jar cut off with a plastic bottle.
4. Cuttings are provided with bright light, temperature + 20 … + 22 ºС, periodic watering (the substrate must be constantly wet). It is desirable to provide lower heating and instead of water use a solution of the same root stimulants, reducing the concentration by half.
5. The rooting process takes 12-16 days. After waiting another week, the plants are transplanted into pots with a regular substrate. Flowers will appear in 3 months.

Rooting cuttings of achimenes - video

Reviews about the cultivation of Achimenes

Very few indoor plants can compare in decorativeness with blooming achimenes. The variety of varieties creates a real living rainbow on the windowsill. And taking care of this beauty is not at all as difficult as it seems. The plant will not require supernatural efforts from the grower, but it will thank for the care with long flowering.