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Echeveria (echeveria): All The Nuances Of Caring For A Flower At Home + Photos And Videos
Echeveria (echeveria): All The Nuances Of Caring For A Flower At Home + Photos And Videos

Video: Echeveria (echeveria): All The Nuances Of Caring For A Flower At Home + Photos And Videos

Video: Echeveria Pulvinata Care Tips - Ep. 2 2022, December
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Exotic echeveria at home: tips for growing

Echeveria
Echeveria

Echeveria is a thermophilic flower native to hot Mexico. Florists successfully grow it on window sills, in florariums or in rocky greenhouse gardens. Unpretentious and extremely decorative Echeveria does not cause any hassle to care for and grows willingly at home.

Content

  • 1 Plant description

    • 1.1 Known varieties of Echeveria - table

      1.1.1 Popular varieties in the photo

    • 1.2 Optimal conditions for keeping Echeveria - table
    • 1.3 Plant video
  • 2 Planting and transplanting

    2.1 Growing in a florarium

  • 3 Plant care

    • 3.1 Watering and moisture
    • 3.2 Top dressing
    • 3.3 How to make echeveria bloom
    • 3.4 Possible problems and solutions - table
  • 4 Diseases and pests

    4.1 Pest Control Methods - Table

  • 5 Reproduction of a flower at home

    • 5.1 Leaf cuttings
    • 5.2 Root or apical rosettes
    • 5.3 Seed
  • 6 Reviews of florists

Description of the plant

Echeveria
Echeveria

There are many varieties of echeveria

Echeveria (or Echeveria) is an inhabitant of the arid rocky plains and mountain slopes of Central America. The flower got its name in honor of the illustrator Atanasio Eheverria, who designed the book "Flora of Mexico" in the century before last. Another name, "stone rose", is associated with the appearance of the plant - its dense rosettes really resemble roses.

The genus Echeveria belongs to the Tolstyankov family (Crassulaceae) and unites about two hundred species. Growing in dry, hot climates determines the main distinguishing features of Echeveria. Plants have fleshy leaves, collected in a dense rosette, 3 to 30 cm long and 1–15 cm wide. The leaf blades are flat or cylindrical, with a pointed tip, covered with a wax coating or pubescent. This structure of the leaf allows Echeveria to tolerate sudden changes in temperature, heat and cold. The color is gray-green, the ends of the leaves are darker, reddish-brown.

The stem of most species is shortened and almost invisible, although there are bushy echeveria. Echeveria blooms with bell-shaped flowers, which are located on inflorescences from 4 to 50 cm long. The size of individual bells is 1-3 cm, the color is red, yellow-green, orange. Often, an additional rosette develops at the ends of the peduncles with fleshy waxy leaves of a smaller size than on the mother plant.

Rejuvenated
Rejuvenated

Rejuvenated is often mistaken for Echeveria, but it looks more like artichokes

Echeveria as an indoor flower is represented by many types. Basically, they differ in size, leaf color and rosette shape. In terms of content, all varieties are absolutely unpretentious, so you can safely choose any variety you like.

Famous varieties of echeveria - table

Variety The size and shape of the leaf outlet Size, shape, color of leaves Flowers
Echeveria agave (agavoides) A bushy plant with a very short stem. The rosettes are dense and rounded. Leaves are up to 9 cm long and 6 cm wide, widen from the base, and then sharply taper, with a pointed tip. The color of the leaves is light green, at the ends the leaves are yellowish-green, covered with a noticeable waxy bloom of gray color. Flowers are collected in inflorescences about 40 cm long, which emerge from the center of the rosette. The shape of the flowers is round bells, yellow or red. Blooms in spring and summer.
Echeveria white-haired (leucotricha) A short-stemmed plant with a rosette about 15 cm in diameter. The leaves are lanceolate, oblong, and their outer side is flat, and the lower is convex, rounded. Green leaf plates with a brown border along the edge, densely covered with light hairs. The flowers are reddish-brown, located on peduncles 40-50 cm long. It blooms in spring.
Echeveria brilliant (fulgens lera) Bushy species with thick shoots. Second-order shoots with small rosettes at the ends grow from the central rosette. Leaves are oval-oblong, with a sharp tip, up to 10 cm long and up to 4 cm wide. The color is light green, with a pronounced waxy coating on the edges. The flowers are bright red, 1–2 cm in size. Flowering in February - March.
Echeveria humpbacked (Gibbiflora) A plant with tree-like unbranched shoots, on the tops of which there are small (15–20 leaves) rosettes. The leaves are rounded-lanceolate, slightly pointed at the end. Slightly concave on the outside, curved on the inside. The edge of the leaf plate is slightly wavy; there are varieties with pronounced waviness. The color ranges from gray-green to reddish-gray with a lighter border around the edge. Flowers - red-yellow rounded bells measuring 2 cm.
Echeveria Derenberg (Derenbergii) It has creeping shoots with very dense, regular-shaped rosettes at the ends. Leaves up to 4 cm long and up to 2 cm wide, spatulate, located very close to each other. The color of the leaf plates is gray-green with a colored (usually pinkish or brownish) edging along the edge. Inflorescences 6-15 cm with red-yellow bells.
Echeveria graceful (elegans Rose) The stem is very short, the rosettes are rather dense. Leaves up to 5 cm long, 2 cm wide, rounded, with a sharp tip. The color is light green with a silvery-bluish bloom. The flowers are pink, with a yellow top; they appear on branched peduncles in late spring.
Echeveria cushion (pulvinata) A plant with a short herbaceous stem and a loose rosette. The leaves are oval, very fleshy, up to 5 cm long and 2 cm wide. The green leaf plate is densely pubescent with short silvery hairs, and small spines are located on the tops of the leaves. The flowers are 1–2 cm in size, pubescent and have a red-yellow color. Flowering from early March.
Echeveria Peakotsky, or Peacock (peacockii) Plants with a low erect stem, on top of which there are loose rosettes with a diameter of about 10 cm. The leaves are rounded-spatulate, with a sharp tip. The color is uniform green with a bluish bloom. Red flowers are collected on drooping peduncles. Blooms in late spring - early summer.
Echeveria shaviana, or sho (shaviana) Short herbaceous stem, rather dense rosette of regular shape. The leaves are flat, oval, with a sharp tip. The color is gray-green. There are varieties with a wavy edge. Pink flowers are collected in inflorescences on branched erect peduncles. It blooms in early summer.
Echeveria bristly (setosa Rose et Purp) The plant is practically without a stem, the rosettes are dense. the correct shape. The leaves are lanceolate, fleshy, up to 10 cm long and up to 4 cm wide. The color is uniform, bright green. The entire lamina is covered with short spiny silvery bristles. Flowers are small, about 1 cm, collected in inflorescences 30–40 cm high. It blooms in early summer.

Popular varieties in the photo

Echeveria Shaviana
Echeveria Shaviana

Echeveria Shaviana

Echeveria Peakotsky
Echeveria Peakotsky

Echeveria Peakotsky

Echeveria Derenberg
Echeveria Derenberg

Echeveria Derenberg

Echeveria humpback-flowered
Echeveria humpback-flowered

Echeveria humpback-flowered

Echeveria brilliant
Echeveria brilliant

Echeveria brilliant

Echeveria graceful
Echeveria graceful

Echeveria graceful

Echeveria white-haired
Echeveria white-haired

Echeveria white-haired

Echeveria agave
Echeveria agave

Echeveria agave

Echeveria cushion
Echeveria cushion

Echeveria cushion

Echeveria bristly
Echeveria bristly

Echeveria bristly

Optimal conditions for keeping echeveria - table

Period Content temperature Watering Air humidity Illumination
Autumn winter + 10 … + 15 ° C, and for flowering specimens - + 18 … + 20 ° C. Rare, only after significant drying of the soil. The lower the temperature, the less watering. The plant requires dry air. Spraying is contraindicated. Bright sunlight, direct sunlight is acceptable.
Spring Summer + 22 … + 28 ° C. Regular, but moderate, with drying of the earthy coma.

Plant video

Planting and transplanting

After the purchase, it is advisable to immediately transplant Echeveria into a permanent pot with suitable soil, because the store substrate is often unsuitable for long-term cultivation of this flower

In nature, Echeveria grow in crevices of rocks, on scree. Under such conditions, rainwater does not stay at the roots, but immediately flows off. The potted soil should also allow water to pass through very well. Moreover, the pebbles are not only placed on the bottom of the container, but also evenly mixed with the soil. It can be small pebbles, broken brick or gravel with a fraction of 4-6 mm. Sand and vermiculite are categorically unsuitable, sand has too small particles, and vermiculite retains moisture.

Optimal soil composition for Echeveria:

  • garden land - 3 parts;
  • pebbles - 1 part;
  • peat - 1 part;
  • some charcoal.

Alternatively, you can take purchased land for cacti or succulents and add some stones there.

The correct choice of a pot plays an important role in growing a plant. Echeveria has a weak superficial root system, therefore, it needs a wide and shallow container with a drainage hole in the bottom. The diameter of the pot should be 1–1.5 cm larger than the diameter of the rosette.

Young specimens require an annual transplant, adult plants are transplanted only as needed when the old pot becomes cramped. The land for transplanting is the same as for the first landing.

Echeveria in pots
Echeveria in pots

Echeveria needs small pots

Growing in a florarium

Recently, it has become popular to grow a mix of indoor plants in mini-greenhouses, the so-called florariums. Initially, only demanding plants were planted in florariums to provide them with the necessary microclimate. Currently, mini-greenhouses have become a real decoration of the interior, because behind the glass you can recreate a piece of the natural landscape. Echeveria is great for a desert or rocky florarium. Compactness, slow growth, undemanding soil and watering make it an ideal candidate for growing under glass.

Floriana with echeveria
Floriana with echeveria

Echeveria is great for creating a desert landscape

It is very simple to make such a florarium. This requires:

  1. In a glass container, carefully pour a drainage layer (small pebbles in half with charcoal), and on it a layer of soil for echeveria.
  2. Using large tweezers and a wooden peg, plant a few bushes and gently water them from a small, narrow-nosed watering can.
  3. Fill up empty spaces with decorative stones or coarse quartz sand.
  4. As a care, such a florarium needs to be watered only very moderately from time to time.

Plant care

Watering and humidity

Echeveria feels great at low humidity, so it can be safely placed in rooms with dry air or near heating appliances.

Echeveria is watered very sparingly. In summer, in hot weather, this is done more often, as soon as the earthen lump dries well. In winter, watering is reduced, the lower the temperature of the content, the less moisture the plant needs. Remember that stagnant water is detrimental to echeveria.

Top dressing

The flower is fed only during the period of active growth, that is, from the beginning of spring to the end of summer. As a fertilizer, ready-made mixtures for succulents are used, for example Agricola for cacti and succulents, Absolute, Stimovit for succulents. As a rule, top dressing is applied together with watering once a month. In the autumn-winter period, Echeveria is not fed.

How to make echeveria bloom

Many varieties of Echeveria readily bloom on windowsills. If the plant does not want to release buds, you can help it. This is achieved by adjusting the length of daylight hours and the temperature regime. If you keep the bushes for 1.5–2 months at a temperature of + 15… + 18 ° C and the duration of daylight hours only 12–13 hours, by the end of this period the first buds will appear.

During flowering, Echeveria requires more abundant watering and fertilizing with complex fertilizer for flowering plants. After flowering, there is a dormant period during which watering and feeding are reduced.

Echeveria bloom
Echeveria bloom

Blooming echeveria bushes look very elegant

Possible problems and solutions - table

Problem Causes Solutions
Gray spots on the leaves, violation of the waxy layer.
  • Inaccurate handling of bushes.
  • Contact with water on leaves.
  • Try not to touch the leaves during transplanting and when leaving, so as not to disturb the wax layer.
  • Do not spill water into the outlet.
Leaves and stems become brittle and become gray or black. Excessive watering combined with low temperatures.
  • Bring the plant into a room with a temperature of 25-28 degrees.
  • Reduce watering.
The rosette stretched out, became loose. The leaves turned pale. Lack of lighting.

Move the pot gradually to a lighter spot. If you do this abruptly, the plant can get stressed and sick

Small leaves, very slow growth.
  • Lack of moisture.
  • Too poor soil and lack of fertilizer.
  • Establish watering, not forgetting that waterlogging is just as destructive as excessive dryness.
  • Transplant the bush into more nutritious soil or start regular feeding.
Leaves and rosettes shriveled. Lack of watering in the heat.

Urgently remove the plant from the hot windowsill and water

Diseases and pests

Echeveria, like other bastards, is resistant to diseases and pests. The main danger is posed by mealy and root bugs, gall nematode.

Pest control methods - table

Pest Signs Treatment
Mealybug Pockets of wax threads appear on the outlet, similar to fluff or cotton wool. The leaves are covered with a sticky coating. If you look closely, you can see oval, whitish insects, covered with a powdery coating. Plants stop growing and are oppressed.
  • Spray the bushes with Karbofos (6 g per 1 liter of water).
  • You may need to discard the plant after rooting healthy cuttings.
Root worm The plant is depressed, it stops growing, the leaves lose their elasticity, become lethargic. The earthy clod seems to be entangled with white cotton - these are the nests of worms.
  • Completely change the soil in the pot.
  • Carry out 3-4 waterings with Aktara at weekly intervals (1 g per 5 l of water).
Gall nematode General oppression of the plant. Bead-shaped thickenings are visible on the roots. Over time, the roots rot.
  • Cut off damaged roots, place the plant for 30 minutes in water at a temperature of 40–45 degrees, and then transplant it into fresh soil.
  • Spill the earth with Aktara solution 3-4 times (1 g per 5 l of water).

Reproduction of a flower at home

Echeveria is easy to propagate by leaf cuttings, apical or basal rosettes. You can try growing a flower from seed, but this is a more time consuming method.

Leafy cuttings

  1. The lower leaves, large and healthy, are broken off from the mother plant. Leave to dry for 2-3 hours.
  2. An earth mixture from garden soil and coarse sand is placed in a pot in a ratio of 2: 1. Pour 2-3 mm of clean sand on top.
  3. The leaves are pressed into the ground with a break, placing them slightly obliquely.
  4. Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle and cover with a plastic bag.
  5. The pot of cuttings is regularly moistened and the shelter is ventilated. The temperature of the cuttings is about +25 ° C.
  6. After 2-3 weeks, young rosettes appear at the base of the leaves. After the mother leaf is completely dry, small echeveria are planted in separate pots.
Echeveria propagation by cuttings
Echeveria propagation by cuttings

Plants are planted after the uterine leaves dry

Root or apical rosettes

By rooting whole rosettes, you can get a full-fledged plant in a year. Rooting stages:

  1. With a sharp knife, cut off the root or apical rosette and remove 3-4 lower leaves. Leave it to wither in a shaded place for 3-4 hours.
  2. Prepare a 1: 1 mixture of garden soil and coarse sand or fine gravel and fill a small pot with it.
  3. Plug the socket into the ground and water lightly.
  4. Keep at a temperature of 22-24 degrees, water regularly (the ground must be constantly moist).
  5. After a month, the rosette will start growing, and after another 1-2 months it can be transplanted into a permanent pot. If the bush grows slowly, you can leave it until next year and only then transplant.
Reproduction of echeveria rosettes
Reproduction of echeveria rosettes

Rooted rosettes start growing quickly

Seeds

If, after flowering, Echeveria has formed fruit pods, you can try to grow new bushes from seeds. To do this, they are sown in a mixture of peat soil and coarse sand (1: 1). They do it in February - March.

Crops are moistened with a spray bottle and covered with glass. Further they are kept at a temperature of 20-25 degrees, regularly moisturized and ventilated. In two to three weeks, sprouts will appear. The grown seedlings are planted in small pots after 2-3 months. When the rosettes grow up to 3 cm in diameter, they are transplanted again to a permanent place.

Florist reviews

_forget-me-not_

http://irecommend.ru/content/nezhnaya-krasavitsa-kotoraya-pokhozha-na-rozu

TatianaF

http://otzovik.com/review_2589398.html

yulia1983

http://otzyvy.pro/reviews/otzyvy-eheveriya-uhod-v-domashnih-usloviyah-115605.html

Echeveria is a great option for novice florists. This plant is unpretentious, tolerates the conditions of city apartments well, multiplies easily and rarely gets sick. It is easy and simple to grow a "stone rose", and exotic lovers can create whole compositions from it in a florarium or in a rocky garden.

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