Table of contents:
- Ehmeya - decoration from the rainforest
- Origin and appearance of the plant
- Planting and transplanting
- Care
- Diseases and pests
- Reproduction of echmea at home
- Florist reviews
- Echmea care - video
Video: Ehmeya: All The Nuances Of Caring For A Flower At Home (striped And Other Varieties) + Photos And Videos
2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26
Ehmeya - decoration from the rainforest
Ehmeya is one of the few indoor plants that has not only decorative leaves, but also magnificent flowers. Florists love her precisely for these qualities, despite the fact that she blooms only once. To admire a magnificent flower, you need to know and follow the rules of home care.
Content
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1 Origin and appearance of the plant
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1.1 Species and varietal diversity - table
1.1.1 Beautiful ehmei in the photo
- 1.2 Conditions for seasonal care - table
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2 Planting and transplanting
- 2.1 What do you need for landing?
- 2.2 Step by step process
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3 Care
- 3.1 Features of watering - table
- 3.2 Top dressing
- 3.3 Flowering period
- 3.4 Rest period
- 3.5 Common errors and how to fix them - table
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4 Diseases and pests
4.1 Methods for controlling diseases and insect pests - table
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5 Reproduction of echmea at home
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5.1 Daughter shoots
5.1.1 How to transplant ehmei babies - video
- 5.2 Seeds
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- 6 Reviews of florists
- 7 Caring for echmea - video
Origin and appearance of the plant
The Bromeliad family can afford to boast of brightly blooming representatives, among which the ehmeya takes an honorable place. This herbaceous perennial plant is native to Central and South America. Ehmeya belongs to epiphytes, terrestrial species are less common. The area of distribution of this natural miracle is large - tropical rainforests and seasonal rain forests with sharp temperature fluctuations. Prefers to grow on the trunks of old trees, snags, found among stones and rocks. The resulting vegetative shoots take root very easily.
In nature, ehmeya likes to settle in old trees.
The plant has a short stem and reaches a height of 50 cm. The echmea leaves distinguish it from other representatives of bromeliads. The leaf plates are elongated and wide, rigid, with a prickly edge. They are collected in a funnel capable of retaining moisture. There are species with soft leathery leaves. The color varies from monochromatic green to gray-green, striped leaf plates.
A distinctive feature of ehmeya is the jagged edges of the leaves.
The root system is underdeveloped and serves to keep the echmea on a support. It takes an insignificant part in the nutrition process.
Inflorescences stand out in many forms: they are spike-shaped, in the form of a head or panicle. Bracts are pointed (hence the name, which translates as "tip of the peak"), are painted in pink tones. Flowers, red, blue, purple, are located in the axils of the bracts. The fruit is a berry.
It is impossible to take your eyes off the blooming ehmea
Taking care of ehmeya in an apartment is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The plant adapts quite well to the room environment. And if some requirements are met, ehmeya will thank you with her luxurious look.
Ehmeya takes root well in both apartments and office buildings
Species and varietal diversity - table
Name | Description of the plant |
Ehmeya two-row | Epiphyte, but there are also plants growing on the ground. The leaf rosette is loose, widely spreading, sometimes reaching a meter in diameter. The leaves are long and narrow, ending in a sharp point. The maximum length is 50 cm, and the width is 3 cm. The main color is green, the edges are covered with brown thorns. The bract is bright red, the flowers are purple. |
Ehmeya sparkling | The most unpretentious in the family. Leaves like straps are collected in a socket. The length of the leaf is 40 cm, the width is 6 cm. The teeth protrude along the edge, the top ends with a rounding. The upper side of the leaf plate is of an even green color, the lower one is painted in a violet-red hue. The inflorescence looks like a panicle. The bract is pink, the flowers are coral with a blue top. |
Ehmeya bearded, or tailed |
The rosette is dense, consisting of bright green leaves. The peduncle is long, covered with a whitish bloom. Inflorescence - panicle with yellow-golden flowers. |
Ehmeya striped (fasciata) | Leaves are belt-shaped, leathery. Form a tall tube-shaped rosette. The length of the leaf reaches 60 cm, the width is up to 5–6 cm. The leaf is colored green with white marble stripes, the edge is covered with small dark denticles. The peduncle is erect, it is covered with multiple scales. The inflorescence is very large and highly decorative, up to 30 cm long. The shape is capitate-pyramidal. The leaves of the bracts are pink, glossy. The flowers are blue-red. The leaves contain toxic substances that irritate the skin. |
Ehmeya curved | Leads a terrestrial or epiphytic lifestyle. Leaves are linear, narrow - up to 1.5 cm wide, and long - up to 40 cm. Spliced from below, form a tube-shaped rosette. The edge of the green leaf is studded. The inflorescence is capitate, 20 cm long. The bract is red. |
Ehmeya Primera | It is a type of striped echmea. Plant height up to 65 cm. Leaves are hard, dense, curved. Form a socket. The bract has a bright pink color, the flowers are red-purple. |
Ehmeya Weilbach | The rosette is formed from linear-xiphoid, soft-skinned leaves. The color of the leaf plate is green, at the base turning into copper-red. Length up to 50 cm. The surface is smooth, has no spines at the edges. The peduncle is high, erect, up to 50 cm in height. Bracts are red. The flowers are lilac-blue. |
Beautiful ehmei in the photo
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Ehmeya curved
- Ehmeya Primera
- Ehmeya Weilbach
- Ehmeya bearded, or tailed
- Ehmeya striped
- Ehmeya two-row
- Ehmeya sparkling
Seasonal care conditions - table
Season | Humidity | Temperature | Lighting |
Spring | Acceptable humidity level is 60%. It can tolerate dry air for some time, but sprinkling is necessary to maintain the echmea in a normal state. On hot days, you need to moisturize the echmea leaves daily. You can place the flower on a pallet with wet stones. Spray with soft water, which is several degrees warmer than room temperature. |
The plant is thermophilic. The optimum temperature will be + 20 … + 28 ° С. The difference between the temperature of the day and night is more likely to benefit the echmea. If the flower grows indoors, be sure to air it, but do not leave the echmeya in the draft. |
Ehmeas can feel great being in bright light and hiding in the shade (in this case, do not expect flowering). Bright diffused lighting will be more useful for its development, for example, when located on the west or east window. On the southern window, the plant should be shaded during active sun hours. In summer, Ehmeya likes to be on the balcony or in the garden. But it must be taught to the open air gradually. The curved ehmeya is best tolerated by bright light, and the sparkling ehmeya is the most shade-loving species. |
Summer | |||
Autumn | With the central heating operating, when the temperature is above 20 ° C, you need to spray the leaves in the morning. When the temperature drops below the specified, make sure that no water gets into the funnel. It is very useful to wipe dust off the leaves with a damp cloth. | Winter temperature norm is from +14 to +18 ° С. | From October to February, the plant can be left on the windowsill without shading. |
Winter |
Ehmeya can be taken out in the summer.
Planting and transplanting
What do you need for landing?
Since echmea has a shallow root system, prefer a shallow but wide pot with drainage holes. In terms of volume, it should be slightly larger than the volume of the root system of the plant being planted. From materials, give preference to plastic - it is not as cold as ceramics. And for an ehmei who loves warmth, this is important. To give additional stability to a rather large plant, the pot with it can be installed in a beautiful planter, which will also serve as a decorative element. In this case, you will need not to be lazy and remove water from the pots every time after watering.
For greater stability, the echmea pot can be placed in a decorative planter
The potting soil can be purchased from your specialty flower shop. Of course, we stop the choice on the soil for bromeliads. The soil should be well air and water permeable, and also have increased looseness. The best option would be a mixture prepared with your own hands, which includes:
- 1 part pine bark;
- 1 part chopped sphagnum;
- 1 part coarse sand;
- peat and horn shavings - to improve the structure.
Another option is also good:
- 1 part peat;
- 2 pieces of leafy land;
- 1 part coarse sand.
Bromeliad substrate - ideal for planting echmea
It is advisable to transplant ehmeya annually - in the spring
Step by step process
- Pour a thick layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot. This is a prerequisite, since ehmeya does not like waterlogged soil.
- On top of the drainage, we fill a layer of soil with almost half the volume of the pot.
- Gathering the echmea leaves in a bunch at the very base, carefully remove the flower from the old pot.
- We lower the flower into a new container and add the remaining soil.
- Transfer the pot to a slightly shaded place. For the earliest adaptation of the roots of ehmeya, do not water for 2-3 days.
After planting, ehmeya is not watered for 3 days, giving the roots the opportunity to adapt
Care
Watering features - table
Season | Watering features |
Spring Summer | Watering is done systematically and abundantly, as soon as the topsoil in the pot dries up. First, water is carefully poured into a rosette of leaves, and then the soil is moistened. The water in the funnel needs to be changed twice a month to prevent stagnation. To do this, slightly tilt the plant, holding it firmly and allowing the liquid to drain. Or you can blot the water with a napkin. Water for irrigation should be settled, soft. The temperature is several degrees above room temperature. Avoid prolonged overdrying of the soil, as well as its overmoistening. |
Autumn | During this period, watering is gradually reduced. |
Winter | Watering to the outlet stops if the temperature drops below +20 ° С. The soil is carefully moistened, making sure that the soil dries well between waterings. |
In the summer, ehmeya is watered regularly
Top dressing
In order for ehmeya to develop fully, it needs food. Top dressing starts in March and stops in October. You can use fertilizers for bromeliads or for decorative flowering plants, which are diluted with water 2 times more than the norm. Choose formulations that are free of copper and boron - they are toxic to ehmea.
Top dressing is applied immediately after foliar irrigation. It can be used for spraying foliage, as well as pouring the solution into an outlet. Fertilizers are applied twice a month.
For full development, ehmeya needs to be fed regularly
Flowering period
Echmea bloom can be observed from May to October. The plant blooms once, after which it begins to slowly fade away. But during this period, children appear.
The flowering process takes several months. Moreover, the flowers fade very quickly, and the bract lasts for several months. In order not to shorten the flowering period, while watering the plant, try not to get the bracts wet. After the peduncle dries up, it is cut off almost to the very base with a sharp pruner. Be sure to remove the water from the outlet, otherwise the process of decay will begin, which will destroy the plant.
If ehmeya is capricious, does not want to bloom, you can help her. For this you need to remember the lessons of chemistry. Citrus fruits and apples emit a gas called ethylene, which stimulates the formation of flowers. Place a pot with a plant in a large plastic bag and put 2-3 apples or oranges there. Tie, just not very tight. The experiment should last no more than 2 weeks. After that, the ehmeya should bloom within 4 months. And one more important aspect: a suitable temperature for the stimulating effect of ethylene should be at the level of +22 ° С.
Apples and oranges release ethylene to stimulate echmea flowering
Dormant period
Ehmeya rests in winter. At this time, her future peduncle is laid. The temperature should be in the range from 17 to 19 ° C and not fall below 16. Watering is very accurate. In winter, spraying will be beneficial for Ehmeya, but make sure that no water gets into the leaf outlet.
Common errors and how to fix them - table
Care error | Cause | Elimination |
The leaf blade became lethargic. | Insufficient hydration. | Moisten the plant as soon as the topsoil dries. Do not allow the earthen coma to dry out for a long time. |
The tips of the leaves dry out. | Air humidity dropped to a minimum. | Do not neglect spraying, especially on hot days and heating periods. |
The color of the leaves turns brown. | The room became cold. | The temperature regime in the room must be maintained depending on the season. |
Light brown spots appeared on the leaves. | Sunburn marks. | Be sure to shade the plant from the midday sun. |
The leaves lose their brightness, become monochromatic. | Excess or lack of light. | Choose a location for your plant with bright, but diffused light. |
The leaves of the plant turn yellow. | Improper watering. | Water your ehmeya by following the rules. |
Echmea leaves begin to rot at the base. | Combination of low temperatures with excessive watering. | Moisten the plant after the topsoil dries out. In winter, drain the water from the funnel, watering with extreme caution. |
Ehmeya doesn't want to bloom. | Insufficient lighting. | If the plant is in shade, move it closer to the window for maximum light. |
The combination of low temperature with waterlogged soil leads to decay of echmea leaves
Diseases and pests
Improper care weakens the plant, which contributes to the development of fungal or viral diseases. In addition, ehmeya needs to be regularly examined in order to detect pests in time and take action.
Ways to combat diseases and insect pests - table
Diseases and pests | Symptoms | Control measures | Prevention |
Leaf spot | The surface of the leaf is covered with small circular blisters, sometimes filled with liquid. After a while, dark brown stripes and fungal spores form in their place. | Three times treatment with a fungicide (for example, Fundazol, diluted according to the specified standards). Maintain a weekly interval between treatments. If the plant is highly infected, it is best to destroy it. |
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Fusarium | Roots and leaves begin to rot at the base of the rosette. The neglected form will lead to the death of the plant. |
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Shield | An adult pest is found under a brownish-gray shell. Located in the leaf axils. The larvae master the plant very quickly. |
You can fight pests with Aktara or Confidor. The rates for the preparation of the solution and the frequency of its use are indicated on the label. When infected with a root worm, the soil must be treated. |
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Root worm | Due to damage to the root system, the plant stops growing. The leaves first turn pale, then shriveled and dry out. |
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Aphid | Aphid colonies can destroy a plant by sucking juices out of it. If measures are not taken in time, aphids can multiply very quickly. |
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- Aphids like to settle in entire colonies
- The root worm is very difficult to identify at an early stage of development.
- The scale insect is able to "get used to" the plant very quickly
- Fusarium can lead to plant death
- Leaf spot is a common disease among indoor plants
Reproduction of echmea at home
Ehmeya can be propagated in two ways: by sowing seeds and planting daughter shoots.
Daughter shoots
This is the easiest and most effective way. Faded echmea begins to actively form daughter shoots. Do not rush to put them off. The baby should grow, its height should be half the size of the mother plant, or at least more than 15 cm, and it should also acquire its own root system. Then the breeding process, which is carried out in March, will take place without difficulty.
- We carefully remove the mother plant with children from the pot.
- Separate the lateral processes along with the roots with a sharp knife. Sprinkle the place of the cut with crushed activated carbon and dry it.
- Prepare containers with a diameter of 7-9 cm and fill them with a mixture of 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part peat and 1 part coarse sand.
- We plant the baby and cover with a transparent bag to create the effect of a greenhouse.
- We put the pots in a bright and warm place.
- After rooting, we transfer the young echmeya into a slightly larger pot and take care of it, like an adult plant.
Reproduction of ehmei by children is the easiest way
How to transplant ehmei babies - video
Seeds
This is a less popular and more time consuming method. Plants grown from seeds may lose varietal characteristics.
- The planting container is filled with peat or sphagnum moss, finely chopping it.
- The seeds are embedded in the soil shallowly.
- Cover with a bag or a piece of glass on top.
- They put the container in a place protected from direct sunlight, regularly moisten the soil mixture and ventilate the greenhouse.
- The temperature should not fall below + 22 … + 24 ° С.
- After 3 months, the emerging seedlings dive using leaf and heather soil, mixing them in equal quantities. The seedlings are kept at a temperature of + 20 … + 22 ° С, not forgetting to moisten the ground and spray the plants.
- After a year, the grown plants are transplanted into a soil mixture for adult flowers.
Florist reviews
Tatyanka1119
https://otzovik.com/review_1983664.html
Insolence
https://irecommend.ru/content/tsvetok-ovna-neprikhotlivoe-i-zamechatelnoe-rastenie
cinnamon
https://spasibovsem.ru/responses/ne-speshite-vybrasyvat-posle-tsveteniya.html
Anna Malik
https://www.lepestok.kharkov.ua/forum/viewtopic.php?t=894
Echmea care - video
Ehmeya is a real decoration of any interior. She looks equally good both in splendid isolation and in flower arrangements. Its ability to bloom for a long time is a real gift for connoisseurs of sophisticated beauty. And good adaptability to room conditions makes ehmeya more and more popular among florists.
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