How And How To Insulate The Garage From The Inside With Your Own Hands - Instructions With Photos And Videos

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 12:53

How to prepare your garage for winter yourself

Preservation of heat is a prerequisite for any room that will be used in the winter season. This is especially true for garage buildings that are open to “all winds” and, for the most part, are not suitable for central heating. The adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out by means of internal or external insulation of the walls, which allows you to maintain a positive temperature inside the room even in severe frosts.

Content

• 1 Where to insulate: inside or outside?

  • 1.1 Material selection
  • 1.2 Material calculation

• 2 Insulation of walls in the garage from the inside

  • 2.1 Installation of the frame
  • 2.2 Waterproofing
  • 2.3 Installation of insulation
  • 2.4 Sheathing of the frame
  • 2.5 Related videos
• 3 Do-it-yourself gate insulation
• 4 Queue ceiling
• 5 Gender
• 6 Cellar

Where to insulate: inside or outside?

To keep the warmth inside the garage, it is necessary to create a screen of insulation material that will not let the cold outside and keep the internal heat. The thermal insulation layer can be located both outside the building and inside - the principle of keeping heat is the same in both cases, however, each of the options has its own nuances that should be taken into account. Outside insulation is more effective because it keeps the cold out of the walls and does not affect the inside of the garage. But at the same time, this method of insulation is more expensive and time consuming - creating a masking facade that will hide the insulation will not be cheap.

Internal insulation reduces the internal area of the garage by the thickness of the insulation material, but at the same time it costs several times cheaper and does not require special skills for self-assembly. If your main goal is to directly prepare the garage for cold weather and you are not planning large-scale construction work, then this method of insulation will be the best solution.

Material selection

Almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used as insulation - mineral wool, foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, organic insulation, etc. In general, for insulation of a garage, it is appropriate to use any of the above names, if you are guided by the principle "it will not get worse". However, if you have a choice, then it is better to familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages of various types of insulation in order to choose the most suitable name for a particular situation.

Styrofoam - universal insulation for the garage

• Styrofoam. Foam boards are characterized by low cost - they are the cheapest insulation material on the domestic market. Of the advantages of this material, there is an insignificant weight, moisture resistance and ease of processing. The obvious disadvantages include high fire hazard and fragile structure.
• Expanded polystyrene. It has all the technical advantages of foam, but at the same time it is less flammable and more durable material. The price of the insulation is slightly higher than the foam analog, but at the same time it does not go beyond the permissible limits.
• Mineral, basalt wool. A more perfect analogue of glass wool, popular in the Soviet Union. Absolutely non-flammable material. The critical disadvantage of mineral wool is its fibrous structure, which absorbs water like a sponge - at high humidity, the insulation gets wet, losing its insulating properties and contributing to the development of fungus.
• Organic insulation. An analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (linen, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic insulation is flammable.

Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in damp conditions

The most suitable material for insulating a garage, regardless of the material from which it is made, is an insulation based on foam or expanded polystyrene, due to the ease of installation, moisture resistance and an affordable price. Fibrous insulation is less preferable due to its structure, since it is far from always possible to maintain an optimal humidity level in an unheated room. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton materials is strongly discouraged - their use is also appropriate, although not so preferable.

Material calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the quadrature of the area to be insulated - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. Thus, you will receive the number of square meters that must be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its thermal insulation data.

Since the thermal insulation layer needs an outer shell, in addition to the insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumables for the assembly and sheathing of the frame . To form the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are easy enough to assemble. The calculation of the footage of the bearing profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between the bearing elements of the frame should not exceed 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The footage of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room, multiplied by 2.

For cladding the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant drywall, which includes moisture-repellent impregnation and anti-fungal additives - an inexpensive, fire-resistant and easy-to-process material. The calculation of the required number of sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of an insulation material.

Insulation of walls in the garage from the inside

Frame installation

Installation of the frame is necessary for the subsequent installation of decorative sheathing, which will hide the insulation from prying eyes. During the installation process, you will need the following tools:

• Perforating drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Scissors for metal;
• Level;

Ready frame for drywall

All fasteners in the wall are pre-drilled with a perforating drill, then self-tapping dowels are inserted into the holes, which are screwed in with a screwdriver. The metal profile can be easily cut with metal scissors, in almost any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:

First of all, guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor, into which the supporting profile will be inserted. They should be parallel to each other - first, the guide is mounted on the ceiling, and then, using a level or plumb line, the guide on the floor is adjusted. The distance from the wall should allow the insulation to be placed so that it does not "push" the sheathing. There must be a sealing tape between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a tighter connection

Before the installation of the bearing profiles, support hangers are mounted on the wall, which stiffen the entire structure. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent to form a "U" -shaped figure into which the supporting profile will be inserted. The suspensions are located along a strictly vertical line, which is measured by means of a plumb line or level. The step between the vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the larger the step, the weaker the structure will be

• Along the hangers, the bearing profiles are inserted into the guides. Fixation in guides and hangers is carried out by means of a screwdriver and small screws for metal. The common plane is adjusted by means of a rule, or along a fishing line stretched between the extreme profiles.
• Between the carriers, with a similar pitch, transverse frame elements are installed, which are made from a profile - they are necessary to strengthen the structure. As a locking connection, you can use one-level crab connectors or simply cut off the sides of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the bearing profile.

Fastening the profile to the hanger

Waterproofing

Fibrous insulation is very sensitive to moisture - in this case, you cannot do without waterproofing. To avoid getting the cotton wool wet, it is necessary to create an airtight, waterproof layer between the wall and the insulation. For this purpose, a membrane film or any other flexible waterproof material is used. After the frame is fully assembled, it is covered with waterproofing material. The film should not be stretched, it should lie freely, fastening to the profile is carried out by means of staples. The main thing is to create an airtight barrier for condensation - the overlap between the edges of the strips should be at least 10 cm. The junction is glued with tape.

Thinking about the need for waterproofing, one should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from a small amount of moisture that can seep outside. It is an insurance against unforeseen situations, and not a panacea - if there is high humidity in the garage from the side of the walls, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work on external waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution to the problem.

Installation of insulation

Wall insulation with foam

Before proceeding with the insulation, the walls must be cleaned of strongly protruding elements: fittings, metal fasteners, etc. If there are through gaps in the wall, then they must be covered with concrete or plaster mortar (sand 1: 2 cement based on the mass of the components) in order to remove drafts.

The process of installing insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - foam and polystyrene foam with a block form factor can be mounted using glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with self-tapping dowels. Wall insulation with polystyrene or expanded polystyrene is carried out in the following order:

• The walls are cleaned of dust and primed with a special compound to improve adhesion (degree of "stickiness"). After the primer is completely dry, you can proceed directly to the installation of the insulation.
• The insulation is mounted from the bottom up, the sheets must be cut exactly under the opening between the bearing profiles. The adhesive is applied to the surface of the insulation by means of a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very light, there is no need to additionally press or fix the block until the glue is completely polymerized.
• After the glue has set, the blocks can be additionally fixed by means of self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps or bolts if the garage is assembled from sheet iron.

Wall insulation with mineral wool

Installation of mineral wool or its varieties is carried out by means of self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps, which fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The insulation process is carried out as follows:

• Before installation, in the lower part of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or rail so that the cotton wool does not touch the floor and does not absorb moisture.
• The insulation is cut so that the width of the strips exceeds the width of the opening between the bearing profiles by 1 - 2 cm.
• The mats are hammered into the openings between the profiles; there should be no gaps or voids. The insulation is fixed with self-tapping dowels with plastic caps or bolts if the garage is made of sheet iron.

In this case, we mean a structure in which the profile is tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is large enough, then a one-piece heat-insulating coating is formed, in which recesses are cut for fastening the frame.

Frame sheathing

Sheathing the finished frame with plasterboard

Fastening of drywall sheets is carried out by means of self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The sheets should be positioned so that the edge falls exactly in the middle of the bearing profile. The distance between the self-tapping screws should not exceed 20 cm, while the caps must be sunk into the surface by about 1 mm. First of all, whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. Drywall cutting is carried out using a clerical knife - the sheet is cut deeply on one side, and then simply breaks in the opposite direction from the cut.

Related Videos

Do-it-yourself gate insulation

Insulation of the gate with foam

The iron garage doors let in not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes and does not protect against frost. To insulate the door from the inside, it is necessary to assemble a frame for sheathing. It is most convenient to use wood as a material - a frame is assembled from a bar, reinforced with intermediate inserts. The beam is attached to the gate by means of metal screws.

Assembling the timber frame

Insulation sheets should preferably be glued to the gate surface to avoid condensation on the metal surface. Due to this circumstance, the use of foam or expanded polystyrene is more preferable. After the installation of the insulation, the frame is sheathed with plywood, tin, etc. In the event that the profile of the gate implies the presence of an internal cavity sufficient for the installation of insulation, then you can do without installing the frame. Since the sheet insulation is lightweight, if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and cladding. In this case, you will have to be more careful when operating the gate, since it will be easy enough to damage the unprotected thermal insulation by an imprudent action.

Ceiling queue

Insulation laying on the garage ceiling

An uninsulated ceiling is the biggest gap in the thermal insulation of a room. Unlike walls, it is more expedient to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic - the insulation will be more effective and there is no need to form decorative cladding, which "eats up" the useful space and finances. It is better to use polystyrene or expanded polystyrene as insulation, although mineral wool in this case will also be quite appropriate.

The external insulation of the garage is not particularly difficult - waterproofing is laid on the surface of the attic and the sheets of insulation are simply laid without cracks and voids. The thickness of the insulation material should be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense heat-insulating layer, without the so-called cold bridges - mounting foam is used to fill joints or hard-to-reach places.

Floor

Expanded clay for floor insulation in the garage

If the floor is formed of monolithic concrete, it also intensively "sucks" the heat out of the room. The only rational solution, in this case, is to fill in heat-insulating material (expanded clay) and form a new concrete screed. Alternative methods of insulation in this case are inappropriate, since the coating must withstand the weight of the car. Ideally, thermal insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of the construction of the building, since in any other case it will be necessary either to break the old covering, or to form thermal insulation on top of it, which implies raising the floor by 15 - 20 cm.

If the garage has already been built, then you will have to proceed from the existing circumstances - the best option would be to completely break the concrete screed in order to free up enough space for insulation backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old coating . Expanded clay, if possible, it is better to acquire heterogeneous (small and medium) or medium fraction in order to reduce the likelihood of voids formation. You will need cement and sand to form the screed. The order of work is as follows:

• A site is being prepared for filling the insulation. The layer of insulation should be at least 10 cm in thickness, optimally - about 20-30 cm. You should also take into account the layer of concrete screed, which is formed with a thickness of at least 5 cm. The site should be as even as possible so that the backfill is uniform.
• A layer of waterproofing is covered on the ground or old coating so that the expanded clay granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose, you can use various materials: from roofing material to dense plastic wrap.
• An even layer of insulation is poured onto the waterproofing. To evenly distribute expanded clay, the surface is leveled with a rule or a long level.
• To strengthen the insulation granules, cement mortar is used - the cement is mixed with water until a homogeneous substance, which should not be too liquid or thick. The resulting mixture is poured into the upper layer of expanded clay so that the cement penetrates into the voids between the granules.
• After the cement mixture is completely dry, the concrete screed is poured. The concrete solution consists of cement and sand, in a ratio of 60/40 based on the mass of the components. When making a concrete solution, it is easiest to focus on the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement shade. A rule is used to level the flooded area. The surface of the screed is smoothed with a spatula or small.

Leveling expanded clay with a rule

Since the area of the garage is generally not very large, it is quite permissible to form a screed "by eye". But if you want to get a perfectly flat surface, then you need to install beacons. Profile, pipes and any other material with a smooth edge can be used as beacons. The lighthouses are set by means of a level, thus creating limit marks that indicate the level of a perfectly flat plane.

It is quite simple to install the beacons - along the edges of the room, by means of the hydraulic level, the extreme profiles are installed, then, between them, a fishing line is pulled, which determines the level of the intermediate elements. The main thing is to firmly fix the beacons so that no displacement occurs when pouring. A concrete solution with a small addition of alabaster is best suited for this purpose. Lighthouses need to be fixed pointwise, and not along their entire length.

Cellar

If there is a cellar in the garage, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good thermal insulation of the room. The installation of insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main room, with the difference that the cellar ceiling is insulated from the inside.

Ceiling insulation procedure:

• All cracks, seams and crevices, if any, are covered. Strongly protruding elements are removed.

• Guides for the supporting profile are installed along the perimeter.

  

  Installing rails on the ceiling

• A waterproofing material is laid on the ceiling to avoid condensation.
• Suspensions are mounted according to the location of the bearing profiles, with a step of no more than half a meter, by means of self-tapping dowels.
• Bearing profiles are inserted into the guides, the hangers are bent and fixed from the sides of the profile. The excess is folded inward or cut off. So that the guides are at the same level, a fishing line is pulled between the extreme profiles, in accordance with which the intermediate elements are fixed.
• Insulation is inserted between the guides, the sheets are attached to the ceiling by means of self-tapping dowels.
• The frame is sheathed with plasterboard or plywood, using self-tapping screws.

The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as for insulating the floor in the garage. After the end of the work in the cellar, the humidity level will rise greatly, therefore it is necessary to think over a high-quality ventilation system.

Insulation of the garage allows you to maintain a positive temperature in the room without central heating. The only thing to remember is that you should not make the room completely sealed in order to prevent an increase in humidity. In the garage, ventilation must be present to remove moisture from melted snow, rain and other things that the car will bring with it during bad weather.