Raspberry Pride Of Russia: Description And Characteristics Of The Variety, Advantages And Disadvantages, Planting And Care Features + Photos And Reviews

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Raspberry Pride of Russia - large-fruited and fruitful beauty

Raspberries are one of the favorite berries of gardeners. There are a great variety of varieties and it is difficult to choose the right one. For lovers of large and fleshy berries, Pride of Russia is a good choice - a mid-early variety, distinguished by very large fruits and abundant harvests.

Content

• 1 Raspberry Pride of Russia - variety description
• 2 Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

• 3 Landing features

  • 3.1 Selection of planting material
  • 3.2 Site selection
  • 3.3 Soil preparation
  • 3.4 Landing

• 4 Plant care

  • 4.1 Pruning and shaping the bush

    4.1.1 Cropping raspberries on video

  • 4.2 Supports and stalk tie
  • 4.3 Top dressing
  • 4.4 Soil care
  • 4.5 Watering
  • 4.6 Preparing for winter

• 5 Pests and diseases and their control

  • 5.1 Table: Diseases of raspberry and methods of their treatment

    5.1.1 Diseases of raspberries in the photo

  • 5.2 Table: Raspberry pests and control

    5.2.1 Pests of raspberries in the photo

• 6 Collection, storage and use of crops
• 7 Reviews

Raspberry Pride of Russia - variety description

The pride of Russia is the raspberry of the mid-early ripening period. Received from Moscow VSTiPS.

The bushes are considered to be medium-sized - their height reaches 1.5–1.8 m, and are compact in size. Typically, a plant forms from 8 to 12 replacement shoots and up to 7 root suckers. Young shoots are devoid of wax coating and thorns, but they have pubescence. Large leaves are bright green in color.

The bushes are medium-sized and fairly compact

Large (weighing 8-10 g) conical berries with tightly linked drupes are located on fruit branches in the amount of 20 or more pieces. The variety is characterized by dry separation of berries, which makes it possible to store and transport the harvested crop.

The berries are shaped like an elongated cone

The taste of the berries is pleasant, characteristic of raspberries (without aftertastes and any specific aroma), the bones are little felt

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

Advantages:

• large-fruited and excellent presentation of berries;
• pretty good transportability;
• high yield (up to 4.5 kg from 1 bush);
• high rates of winter hardiness and frost resistance (withstands temperatures up to -30 ^o);
• good resistance to fungal and viral diseases, as well as to some pests, such as aphids.

Disadvantages:

• in bad weather conditions, double berries can form;
• in the northern regions with a very harsh climate, special measures are required to prepare plants for winter;
• rainy weather and shading reduce the sugar content of the berries and the deterioration in taste.

Landing features

Raspberries are planted during the dormant period of the plants. It is best to do this in the spring - then the variety will have a better chance of rooting well.

The choice of planting material

Buying raspberry seedlings is always associated with the risk of acquiring plants infected with viral diseases. To avoid this, take seedlings from government nurseries. Before buying, check the condition of the roots - they must be well developed, without rot and dried out areas, the stems must be healthy, without damage.

Raspberry cuttings must have well-developed roots

You can take planting material from dividing the bushes available on the site. To do this, during pruning, you need to carefully remove with a fork the excess shoots with as many roots as possible. Choose only perfectly healthy stems.

Seat selection

Raspberries prefer a slightly acidic soil that retains moisture well enough, but with good drainage. Even a brief oversaturation of the soil with moisture is detrimental to the root system. It is allowed to grow raspberries even on poorly fertile calcareous soils and dry sandy soils, subject to abundant watering and a good supply of organic matter.

Strong winds can damage shoots and interfere with pollinating insects, so the planting site should be protected from the wind. It is advisable to plant raspberries in a sunny area, but even with a little shading, they also grow well. Don't just plant right under the trees.

Soil preparation

Prepare the intended landing site in the fall. Eliminate all weeds and dig a groove for the intended row. The groove width should be 3 spade bayonet lengths and 1 bayonet depth. The bottom of the groove is covered with an 8–10 cm layer of compost or rotted manure, and then loosened with a pitchfork to mix the fertilizer with the soil. Next, the groove is covered with earth and a complex fertilizer is applied.

The grooves for planting raspberries are prepared in the fall

If the site is heavily turfed, you need to use a two-tiered digging. In this case, the turf plays the role of fertilizer and there is no need to apply manure.

Landing

When laying multiple rows, orient them in a north-south direction to avoid mutual shading. The distance between rows should be 1.5-2 m, between plants in a row - 45-50 cm.

Raspberries should be planted in the correct rows, observing the recommended distances between bushes and between rows

Step-by-step landing procedure:

1. Place the plant in the groove no more than 8 cm deep.
2. Spread out its roots, sprinkle with earth and gently compact with your hands.
3. Immediately after planting, cut the stem into a bud 20-30 cm above the soil level.
4. Water the planted plants.

Plant care

The pride of Russia is a very productive variety, but in order to get maximum fruiting from it, good care is needed.

Pruning and shaping the bush

In the first year after planting, the raspberry bush forms young shoots. As soon as they appear, the old stump should be cut at the root so that it does not begin to bear fruit - this will save the strength of the young plant.

For ease of care, shoots need to be tied to supports. Try to tie up the stems in such a way that the bush is as illuminated and well ventilated as possible - this improves the yield. Do not cut off the shoots that have grown in the first year - they will harvest next year, since raspberries are a plant with a 2-year cycle.

Cropping raspberries on video

In the second year after planting, at the end of fruiting, cut off all the fruiting stems at the root, and tie the young shoots of the current year to a wire.

Usually, there are not too many shoots in the first 1-2 years. Subsequently, the bush becomes thicker and may need to be thinned out.

Keep in mind that after 8-10 years, the yield of raspberries drops and it needs to be replanted to a new place

Supports and stalk garters

With abundant fruiting, the stems can bend from the weight of the berries and they need support. In addition, tied bushes are easier to handle. It is better to put the supports before planting, but you can do this at the end of the summer of the first year.

There are several options for installing the support: single, double and Scandinavian trellises, as well as single supports.

Single trellis - the most compact type of support for raspberries

The most common method of tying is a single trellis, which takes up a minimum of space.

To install it, pillars about 2.5 m high are dug in along the row to a depth of 45 cm and with an interval of 3-4 m and a wire is pulled on them at a height of 70-80, 100-110 and 160-170 cm. Each fruiting stem is tied separately, which protects from winter wind and improves lighting conditions. True, such a support is not without drawbacks: young shoots are easily damaged during harvesting or can be broken by strong winds in the middle of summer, so they must be temporarily tied to the lower wires.

Top dressing

To obtain high yields, raspberries require fertilization. It is recommended to apply 30–35 g / m ^{2 of} potassium sulfate every year in the fall, and 15 g / m ^{2 of} ammonium sulfate in the spring. Superphosphate is applied once every 3 years at 60 g / m ². Minerals can simply be scattered over the soil surface so that they cover it by about 50 cm on each side of the row. After application, watering and mulching are carried out with a layer (5 cm thick) of organic fertilizers (raw peat, compost).

Soil care

The soil in the rows should be loose and free of weeds. During the entire growing season, weeds and excess root suckers are destroyed by shallow loosening. In doing so, you need to be careful not to damage the roots of the raspberry bushes.

Watering

Raspberries need regular watering, which is best done with a drip method. You can also irrigate by sprinkling or in furrows between rows. Just avoid wetting the stems to reduce the possibility of fungal infections.

Raspberries can be watered

In dry weather, watering should be regular, as raspberries evaporate a lot of moisture through the leaves and stems. Watering should be such that the soil is moistened to a depth of 30–35 cm. For the entire season, raspberries need 7 waterings. The first watering (20 liters per 1 m row) is carried out at the end of May, while the replacement shoots are sprouting. Then 2 waterings are carried out in June and 2 more - in July, 20-30 liters of water per 1 m row. In early August, watering is carried out only if there is no precipitation at all. It is not recommended to water the plants after August 10. The last, water-charging, watering is carried out at the end of October.

Preparing for winter

Young shoots are tied in a bundle and bent to the ground, then covered with some kind of insulating material (spunbond, nutrasil, spruce branches, corn stalks). It is not worth mulching the soil with sawdust - they accumulate too much moisture and can provoke rotting during thaws.

Pests and diseases and their control

Raspberry Pride of Russia has good disease resistance, but in very humid weather and unfavorable conditions, it can be affected by gray rot and purple spot.

Table: Diseases of raspberry and methods of their treatment

Name of the disease	The manifestation of the disease	Treatment methods
Gray rot	The defeat manifests itself on leaves, buds, stalks, shoots, berries. A fluffy gray coating appears on the edges of the leaves and on the berries. In rainy weather, up to 50% of the crop is lost.	Spraying before blooming the leaves with copper chloride (15–20 g per 5 l of water), bushes and soil under them. During the formation of ovaries, dusting the soil with ash. Refrain from sprinkling.
Purple spot	First, young shoots in the places of attachment of leaves appear purple-brown spots. Leaves and fruit twigs become covered with necrotic spots, leading to drying out. If the spots cover the shoot in a ring, it dries up.	Thin plantings, provide good ventilation. Avoid excessive moisture. Removal of affected shoots with tissue entrapment under the soil surface. At the beginning of the opening of the buds, spray with Bordeaux mixture (1%). In summer, it is treated with HOM solution (15–20 g per 5 l of water) three times: when young shoots reach 15–20 cm in length, before flowering, immediately after flowering.

Raspberry diseases in the photo

Berries affected by rot become inedible

Spotting is especially common in wet weather.

When the stems are damaged, they dry out

Table: Raspberry pests and control

Pest name	The manifestation of the disease	Control methods
Raspberry kidney moth	A dark brown butterfly lays eggs, from which come out red caterpillars with a dark brown head. After wintering, caterpillars crawl onto the stems and eat the buds, and then the fruit bearing of the berries.	Observe the rules of agricultural technology. Root out old shoots. Spray with Karbofos (0.3%) or Decis when kidney swells.
Raspberry beetle	Small, 3-4 mm, beetles, densely covered with yellow or gray hairs. They attack buds, eating them, as well as leaves and flowers. Eggs are laid in flowers, from which after 10 days larvae emerge, damaging the berries.	Mechanical shaking off and elimination of bugs during budding. Loosening the soil during pupation. During the period of bud formation and before flowering, spray with Karbofos (35–40 g per 5 l of water), Iskra, Decis.

Raspberry pests in the photo

kidney moth especially spreads on neglected plantations

Raspberry beetle damages raspberry buds

Raspberry beetle larvae damage berries

Collection, storage and use of crops

Raspberries begin to ripen by mid-summer and fruiting continues for a long time - until the first decade of August. Usually berries are removed in 4-5 approaches.

Raspberries are harvested by hand, always in dry weather. For the purpose of further storage and transportation, it is desirable to collect it together with the stalk. It is better to cut it off with scissors. Try not to crush the berries - if they "flow", they cannot be stored at all.

When picking raspberries, choose only the ripe berries and pick them carefully so as not to mash

Carefully selected whole and dry raspberries can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week. It is best to lay the berries in layers with fresh leaves (such as hazelnuts). This arrangement reduces squeezing of the berries and improves storage (or transportation) conditions.

Raspberry Pride of Russia is perfect for fresh consumption, as well as for making preserves, jams, liqueurs, pie fillings. You can also dry the berries or freeze them for future use.

Dried raspberries can be stored well for further consumption in winter

Reviews

Raspberry The pride of Russia in comparison with other varieties does not differ in any special taste, but it is distinguished by high yield and resistance to diseases. Caring for this raspberry is easy, and its winter hardiness allows you to grow tasty and healthy berries even in harsh climatic conditions.