Hippeastrum: All The Nuances Of Flower Care At Home + Photos And Videos

2024 Author: Bailey Albertson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-01-17 22:26

Secrets of a beautiful hippeastrum: all the intricacies of home content

Blooming hippeastrum mesmerizes with its beauty. Just once a year, he pleases us with huge flowers-stars. And what is the disappointment when the long-awaited flower does not appear, or the plant begins to wilt altogether. To avoid such troubles and be able to enjoy the contemplation of this wonderful flower, you need to know some secrets of care and adhere to them. A grateful plant will surely delight the eye with generous flowering.

Content

• 1 Description of the hippeastrum

  • 1.1 Appearance
  • 1.2 Flowering hippeastrum - video
  • 1.3 Natural habitat and home maintenance

  • 1.4 Variety of varieties of hippeastrum

    • 1.4.1 The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table
    • 1.4.2 Magnificent hippeastrum in the photo

  • 1.5 Similarities and differences with amaryllis

    1.5.1 Biological differences between hippeastrum and amaryllis - table

• 2 Optimal conditions for growing a flower

  2.1 Growing conditions for hippeastrum at different periods of development - table

• 3 Planting and transplanting

• 4 Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum

  • 4.1 Watering and feeding
  • 4.2 Some secrets of flowering

  • 4.3 Rest period

    4.3.1 Problems waking up after wintering

  • 4.4 Care errors and their correction

    4.4.1 Common mistakes in hippeastrum care - table

• 5 Diseases and pests of the hippeastrum

  • 5.1 The main diseases and pests of the hippeastrum and how to control them - table
  • 5.2 The most common diseases and pests of the hippeastrum in the photo

• 6 Reproduction

  • 6.1 Seed method

  • 6.2 Vegetative method

    • 6.2.1 Propagation by daughter bulbs
    • 6.2.2 Dividing an onion
• 7 Reviews of gardeners

Description of hippeastrum

Appearance

Hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) is a perennial bulbous plant. Leaves are linear, shiny leaves, 50–70 cm long, 4–5 cm wide, have shallow grooves on the surface. The leaves are arranged in two rows. During the flowering period, the plant produces a powerful, high (up to 60–80 cm) peduncle.

Hippeastrum during flowering is a source of pride and admiration

The flowers are funnel-shaped. Their color gamut is quite wide: red, white, orange, pink, purple, sometimes yellow or greenish shades. The main tone can be complemented by strokes or specks.

The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Hippeastrum has a very faint odor. Some species don't smell at all. This is a great benefit for people prone to allergic reactions.

Flowering hippeastrum - video

Natural habitat and home maintenance

The homeland of the hippeastrum is the American tropics and subtropics, in particular the Amazon basin. It was brought to Europe in the 16th century and quickly gained admirers all over the world. In 1799, Johnson's first hybrid hippeastrum was introduced. Today these flowers are widely used as a houseplant and are also grown for cutting. Hippeastrum is not very difficult to care for. Even novice growers can easily cope with this task.

Variety of varieties of hippeastrum

This plant belongs to the Amaryllis family and has about 90 species and more than 2 thousand varieties.

In indoor floriculture, hybrid hippeastrum (hippeastrum hybrida) is most often cultivated. The classification of varietal hippeastrum is based on two characteristics: the size and shape of the flower. Depending on this, plants are conventionally divided into 9 groups, which are indicated in the table.

The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table

Group name	Popular varieties
Large-flowered simple	Apple Blossom, Charisma, Showmaster, Minerva, Hermes
Mid-flowered simple	Lemon Star, Magic Green
Small-flowered simple	Santa Cruz, Giraffe, Baby Star, Bianca, Neon
Terry large-flowered	Blossom Peacock, White Piakok, Sweet Nymphs, Dancing Queen, Aphrodite, Lady Jane
Terry medium-flowered	Alfresco, Unicway, Double Record, Elvas, Pasadena,
Terry small-flowered	Zombie
Sibistre	La Paz, Emerald, Chico, Rio Negro, Tiramisu, Melfi
Orchid	Papilio, Exotic Star, Ruby Star
Tubular	Pink Floyd, Amputo, Santiago, Herma, Rebecca

Magnificent hippeastrum in the photo

Simple large-flowered hippeastrum with rim

Simple large-flowered hippeastrum striped

Simple mid-flowered hippeastrum

Simple mid-flowered hippeastrum with a curly edge

Simple small-flowered hippeastrum

Simple small-flowered hippeastrum

"Star" splendor

Charming bouquet

Terry large-flowered hippeastrum

Terry medium-flowered hippeastrum

Terry large-flowered hippeastrum

Sibistre

Orchid hippeastrum

Orchid-shaped hippeastrum

Similarities and differences with amaryllis

Amaryllis is often referred to as hippeastrum varieties, but this is mistaken

Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis or the names of these flowers are considered synonymous. Even on sale hippeastrum can go under the name "amaryllis" or vice versa. They are indeed relatives belonging to the same botanical family - amaryllidaceae, but representing different genera.

Outwardly, these plants are very similar and require almost the same care. Biologically, they are arranged in different ways. The main differences are presented in the table.

Biological differences between hippeastrum and amaryllis - table

Specifications	Hippeastrum	Amaryllis
Dormant period	September – February.	June – September.
Flowering period	February March.	Autumn (at home - closer to winter).
Reproduction	Children are formed quite rarely.	Babies are regularly formed in the bulb.
Peduncle structure	Hollow.	Corpulent.
Number of flowers per inflorescence	2-6.	8-12.
The smell of flowers	Almost nonexistent.	Fragrant.
Features of the appearance of a peduncle	After the appearance of the fourth leaf or simultaneously with them.	First, a peduncle appears, and by the end of flowering, leaves.
The ability to change the life cycle	It is possible to artificially send to rest at any time, as well as stimulate flowering on a given date and re-flowering.	Life cycles are not amenable to "programming".

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

The practice of cultivating this plant shows that the beauty of the hippeastrum depends on the optimal parameters of temperature, humidity and illumination. Intense bloom provides a full dormant period in a dark, dry and cool place for at least 8-10 weeks. "Tired" hippeastrum most often gives small flowers on a short peduncle or does not bloom at all.

At the moment the bulb wakes up, the conditions should be gradually (but not drastically) changed: transfer the plant to a warm, but not too brightly lit room and increase watering to moderate. Thus, the formation and development of peduncles is stimulated. In cold climates, this process is greatly slowed down.

If a plant hits bright light from the dark in combination with excess moisture, it stimulates the rapid growth of the green mass, but noticeably inhibits the development of the peduncle.

In order for the hippeastrum to develop fully, it is necessary to comply with the growing conditions given in the table.

Growing conditions for hippeastrum at different periods of development - table

Development period	Season (can be artificially shifted at the request of the grower)	Temperature	Humidity	Illumination	Recommended location
Dormant period	Mid September - end of January (when flowering once a year).	10-12 ° C.	Light and rare hydration.	No lighting.	A dry basement, cellar, or just a dark place away from the window.
The beginning of the growing season (appearance of leaves)	End of January - beginning of February.	25-30 ° C.	Poor watering (the ground should be almost dry).	Dim light.	In the back of the room (not on the windowsill).
Vegetation period (flower arrow appears)	Early February.	Above 20 ° C - accelerates peduncle development. 16-18 ° C - slows down the growth of the peduncle.	Gradually increase the amount of moisture to a moderate level (the ground should be moist, but not wet).	Bright diffused light.	On the windowsill.
Bloom	Mid or late February - early or mid March.	Above 20 ° C - reduces flowering time. 16-18 ° C - Prolongs flowering.	Regular watering.	Bright diffused light.	South-facing window sills with louvered windows. Rotate periodically around the axis to avoid deformation.
The period of active leaf growth	Mid March - mid September.	18-22 ° C.	Gradually reduce watering until it stops.	Maximum possible illumination.	Outdoors in a place protected from direct sunlight and waterlogging

Planting and transplanting

The planting time for hippeastrum bulbs can be selected depending on the desired flowering period. This can be done regardless of the season. The plant will delight you with flowers about 5-9 weeks from the moment the shoots appear. Hippeastrum bulbs sold through the distribution network are ready to bloom. They have gone through a dormant period and do not need darkness.

For planting, a deep (up to 15 cm) and narrow (no more than 5–6 cm larger than the bulb diameter) pot is required, preferably ceramic, always stable on a horizontal surface. A narrow pot is necessary to prevent excessive moisture and root rot. As an optimal substrate, you should use drainage, which fills the lower part of the pot, and a soil mixture consisting of equal parts of sand, turf, humus or peat.

Drainage is a prerequisite for preventing excessive soil moisture and rotting of the bulb and roots

The bulb is planted in a slightly damp soil mixture, deepening it to a maximum of 2/3 of the height.

Narrow pot and shallow planting create optimal conditions for the hippeastrum

After planting, the plant only needs warmth. It is not necessary to water the hippeastrum before the sprouts appear.

If any damage is noticed on the bulb, it must first be healed. This procedure includes trimming rotten parts, keeping for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxima) or ordinary greenery and drying for a day.

Processed hippeastrum bulb

It is necessary to plant such a bulb in the ground, where humus is replaced with a small amount of sphagnum (peat moss).

It is advisable to deepen the reanimated bulb into the soil no more than 1/4 of its height. With such a planting, it is easier to control its condition and, if necessary, spray. After the bulbs have recovered, the soil mixture can be easily refilled to the usual level.

Surface planting of a damaged bulb

Having planted the plant in a moist soil, it is placed in a warm, slightly shaded place (you can cover it with an empty pot) and watering is excluded until the peduncle is distilled to a height of 10 cm.

The optimal frequency of hippeastrum transplantation is once every 3-4 years. A favorable time is the eve of a period of rest or its end. It is advisable to use the transshipment method when transplanting - to move the plant along with the earthy clod. In this case, the root system is minimally damaged, which contributes to the rapid rooting of the bulb and its active development.

Transfer method - a method of transplanting with minimal damage to the root system

Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum

Watering and feeding

As discussed above, the intensity of watering the hippeastrum is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant with not only the required amount of moisture, but also correctly deliver it to the root system.

For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the bulb - it can rot. Better to combine top watering with pan watering. Thus, moisture will be evenly distributed over the earthen coma, which will exclude decay of the roots. The main rule of watering hippeastrum: it is better to underfill than overflow. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.

During the growth of the peduncle, when it reaches a height of 12-15 cm, it is useful to water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After 5-6 days after that, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer.

Top dressing of hippeastrum is carried out regularly, at the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (7: 3: 6) fertilizer (for deciduous plants). After the appearance of leaves, to stimulate the active formation of buds, hippeastrum requires less nitrogen and much more potassium, so the ratio of mineral components changes to the proportions of 4: 6: 12 (for flowering plants). The frequency of feeding is maintained.

A month before the onset of the dormant period, the hippeastrum needs fertilizers with an insignificant part of nitrogen and phosphorus and a large amount of potassium (4: 4: 12).

Timely balanced feeding promotes high-quality flowering and deciduous growth. The base of the leaves forms the scales of the bulb and it grows in size. With insufficient nutrition or a complete lack of feeding, the bulb will use the nutrients accumulated from the leaves, but they are not enough to ensure flowering.

Some secrets of flowering

Sometimes hippeastrum disappoints flower growers by refusing to bloom. Why? There may be several reasons:

1. Most often, the plant does not throw out a peduncle due to the depletion of the bulb. Hippeastrum requires a substantial amount of nutrients for flowering. Unsurprisingly, the potted soil is quickly depleted. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to feed regularly and in sufficient quantities.
2. A plant affected by pests (spider mites, worms or scabbard) tries to fight them and does not have the strength to bloom.
3. Hippeastrum does not bloom even with rotting of the bulb, which occurs due to waterlogging of the soil.

To admire the blooming hippeastrum from year to year, such situations should not be allowed. It is also useful to know some tricks of experienced florists to ensure 100% flowering of this plant:

• treating the bulb with hot (43–45 ºC) water for three hours before planting will cause the plant to bloom in three weeks;
• if you stop watering from August, move the plant to a dark, dry place and keep it there until the end of January, after which you resume watering, the flowers will delight you in 1.5 months;
• if you cut off all the leaves in July and do not water the hippeastrum for a month, and with the first watering introduce a liquid complex fertilizing, the flowers will bloom in August or September.

Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the wilted peduncle, continuing watering and feeding. And prepare the plant for good rest (rest period). The next flowering directly depends on this.

Dormant period

The natural resting period of the hippeastrum lasts quite a long time: from September to January. If your plant grew outdoors in summer, by the beginning of autumn it must be brought into the house and gradually reduce watering until the leaves completely stop and dry out. You can cut off the yellowed leaves yourself, from which the bulb has already taken nutrients.

The quality of the next flowering depends on the dormant period.

After that, place (or put the pot with the plant on its side) in a dark and cool (5-12 ° C) room. Many growers keep them at a higher temperature - about 17-18 ° C. The soil must be slightly moistened once every 2-3 weeks to prevent drying out of the roots. It is not recommended to moisten and spray the onion.

The dormant period should last 1.5–3 months, depending on the planned time of the subsequent flowering of the plant. During this time, the hippeastrum does not "show signs of life." The development of leaves and peduncles occurs only inside the bulb.

After a period of rest, it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up. Leaves and peduncles appear on the surface of the bulb.

Simultaneous appearance of leaves and peduncle

Problems waking up after wintering

If the bulb does not wake up, you can, of course, be patient and wait for it to wake up on its own. But, as a rule, full flowering from the "belated" bulb will not work.

In this case, it is worth remembering in what state the plant “retired”. After all, the peduncle is laid in the bosom of every fourth leaf. If last year the green mass was not sufficiently grown, the bulb will be weakened.

And if there were less than four leaves, then in the new season hippeastrum will probably refuse to bloom. Dry content can hardly be helped here. It is necessary to provide a very warm temperature, actively water and feed.

Care errors and their correction

It is not very difficult to care for hippeastrum, but it is imperative to follow the rules of watering, feeding and lighting at different periods of the plant's life cycle.

Common mistakes in caring for hippeastrum - table

Care errors	Their manifestation	How to fix it
Lack of a rest period (air temperature above 18 ° С, regular watering and / or feeding)	Lack of bookmark flower buds and, as a result, flowering.	Follow the described rules of watering and fertilization, maintain a temperature regime corresponding to each stage of the plant's life cycle.
Low air temperature (below 17 ° C) during flowering
Poor lighting during active growth
Violation of the rules of watering and feeding (its absence)
Excessive watering	Abrupt cessation of growth, rotting of the bulb, the development of pests in the soil.	Dig up, free from the ground, if necessary, remove the damaged parts of the plant, transplant into clean soil.
Keeping at low temperature or damp	Darkening or blackening of colors.	Cut off damaged flowers, rearrange the plant in a warm, dry place and adhere to optimal growing conditions.
Insufficient potash fertilization or maintenance during the growing season in a too dry room	Brown leaf tips.	Feed with mineral fertilizer containing macro- and microelements and carry out top dressing in accordance with the phase of plant development, humidify the air.
Too bright lighting	Blanching of flowers.	Provide diffused lighting, avoiding direct sunlight.

Diseases and pests of the hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is not too susceptible to disease. It is most often affected by a red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis), red rot and downy mildew. Some pests can also bother this plant: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, worms. You can determine what a plant is sick with by its appearance.

The main diseases and pests of the hippeastrum and how to combat them - table

Diseases and pests	Causes of occurrence	External signs of plant damage	Effects	Prevention and treatment measures
Red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis)	Fungal infectious disease. Ripe spores are carried by the wind, infecting healthy plants.	Red oblong spots on all parts of the plant.	Severe damage leads to curvature and wilting of leaves and peduncles, disease of daughter bulbs	In case of minor damage, it is enough to spray the affected areas with fungicides. The effect of this procedure lasts up to a month. The most effective means containing copper: copper sulfate, Hom, AbigaPik, Celeste Topa suspension concentrate. You can also use drugs such as Maxim and Rovral, Skor, Vitaros, Previkur, Ordan, Fundazol, Topaz. Bulbs with significant damage must be dug out, all diseased areas, including the roots and peduncle (in a flowering plant), must be removed. Only immediate treatment gives a positive result. You can not leave a diseased plant for a dormant period. Several effective ways to process bulbs: Sprinkle all wounds from removal of affected areas with a mixture of chalk and copper sulfate in a ratio of 20: 1 and dry the onion for a week. Then plant in renewed sterile soil treated with fungicides. Soak the bulbs in a solution of the listed drugs, spray the leaves. Some growers consider it a more effective way to lubricate problem areas from which diseased tissues have been cut out with Maxim. After processing, the bulbs should be dried for at least two days. Plant them in clean soil and loosen the soil daily until new roots form. After any treatment, the plants should not be watered for two hours. If necessary, repeat the treatment after 2 weeks.
Downy mildew	Viral disease.	Silvery spots on the leaves.	Softness of leaves, weak, short stalks or lack thereof.	Treat the leaves with a fungicide.
Red rot	Excessive waterlogging	Sluggishly drooping leaves, rot on the scales of the bulb and roots (on the upper scales it may look like red spots, as with a red burn).	Withering leaves, lack of peduncles, with severe damage - rotting of the root system and death of the plant.	Remove damaged areas, diseased roots, dry the bulb for 7 days, pickle with foundation before planting. Plant in new sterilized soil.
Mealybug	Infection from other plants or through open windows, buying an infected bulb.	White cotton-like bloom, secreted by mobile insects 0.5–1.2 mm in size.	They significantly slow down the development of plants by sucking the juice out of them.	Remove the topsoil and heavily affected leaves. Clean the plant from visible pests with cotton swabs or sticks moistened with alcohol or cologne. Treat with special insecticides: Aktara, Aktellik, Metaphos, Fitoverm, Arriva, Permethrin or Fufanon. Wipe the windowsill with alcohol, soapy water or insecticides. Since the eggs of pests have an incubation period of 7 days, and insecticides do not work on them, it is imperative to carry out 2-3 repeated treatments with an interval of 1 week. Inspect the plant periodically.
Shield		A small and dangerous pest of indoor plants with a hard shell surface, which produces dew (sticky liquid).	Creates a favorable environment for the development of various fungal diseases. Plants stop growing, shedding leaves and flowers.
Aphid		Dense clusters of inactive green, gray or orange insects, 1–5 mm in size on young shoots.	Sucks sap from the plant. Buds, flowers and leaves lose their color saturation and fall off.
Spider mite		Cobwebs on the underside of the leaves, woven by an almost invisible mite, 0.1–0.3 mm in size.	Leaves and peduncle are covered with "marble" spots, become brittle, twisted, turn yellow and fall off.

The most common diseases and pests of the hippeastrum in the photo

Bulb affected by a red burn

Leaves affected by stagonosporosis

Partial damage to the bulb with red rot

The root system is almost completely destroyed by red rot

Leaves and peduncles affected by downy mildew

Abundant spread of mealybug on leaves

Spider mite

Reproduction

Hippeastrum reproduces in two ways: seed and vegetative.

Seed method

The seed method is rather complicated and lengthy. Seeds are formed only 1.5–2 months after flowering. But they do not form on their own. It is necessary to artificially pollinate pistils and stamens. The grown ovary looks like a large tricuspid capsule.

Ripening of hippeastrum seeds

Inside the capsule, there are rows of flattened seeds of an irregular rounded shape. They are characterized by a black color with a brown tint and the presence of thin black wings.

Seeds ready for sowing

In spring, they are planted in sandy-leafy soil. It is important to take into account that freshly harvested seeds have one hundred percent germination. From dried seeds, as a rule, only 30% of the total germinate. Seedlings will delight you in 15–5 days.

Sprouted hippeastrum seeds

When the leaves grow up to 6-10 cm, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 6-7 cm. At this time, the bulb grows.

Grown seedlings of hippeastrum

The period until the first flowering of young plants of different varieties ranges from two to five years. This method is more acceptable to breeders. Most amateur flower growers consider it costly and ineffective. At the same time, there is no guarantee of preservation of the maternal characteristics of the plant.

Vegetative method

It is much easier to propagate hippeastrum in a vegetative way. Several of its variants are practiced.

Propagation by daughter bulbs

This is a natural, and therefore the most optimal and simplest way. Bulbs of three years of age, with proper care, usually give 3 babies.

Separating the bulbs

They are separated with a sterile sharp instrument, treating the cuts with crushed coal. Planted in accordance with the rules for planting an adult bulb.

For two years, the newly planted plant is not deprived of its foliage and is not set to rest. The growth of the bulb and the formation of the peduncle in it depends on the intensity of the growth of the leaves. With good care, babies will throw out flower stalks in 2-3 years.

Dividing the bulb

Split onion

The division is carried out during the maximum accumulation of nutrients in the bulb - in November.

Division process algorithm:

1. Remove the topsoil, leaving only the bottom of the bulb in the soil.
2. Remove outer dry scales.
3. Cut off the leaves along with the top of the bulb.
4. Cut the onion into four equal parts to the surface of the soil.
5. Insert knitting needles with a diameter of 5–6 cm into the incisions to prevent the parts of the bulb from closing.
6. Adhere to all the rules of caring for an adult plant.
7. With the appearance of leaves, fertilize and continue fertilizing according to the standard scheme.
8. Divide the onion the next spring and place the parts in separate flowerpots.

You can divide the onion in another way: cut it, leaving in each part a piece of the bottom and scales. It is useful to sprinkle the sections with charcoal or activated carbon. Plant the resulting slices in a light peat mixture.

shallow planting in a light substrate

After 40-50 days, babies appear, which must be planted in pots in the spring.

Gardeners reviews

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Hippeastrum care is available even for very busy people. It requires a minimum of effort and provides maximum aesthetic pleasure. You will fall in love with this "star rider" at the first bloom. Grow and welcome spring together with wonderful flowers in February!