Table of contents:

Wooden Street Doors (including For Summer Cottages): Varieties, Device, Components, Installation And Operation Features
Wooden Street Doors (including For Summer Cottages): Varieties, Device, Components, Installation And Operation Features
Video: Wooden Street Doors (including For Summer Cottages): Varieties, Device, Components, Installation And Operation Features
Video: Techniques Construction u0026 Install of Wooden Deco Door Frames Inside The House 2023, February
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Wooden street doors

Wooden entrance doors
Wooden entrance doors

Front street doors are the hallmark of every home. They perform many useful functions - they protect the building from unwanted intruders, retain heat inside, isolate the interior from noise and dust. In the cold season, the front doors resist the frosty cold, and in the summer - the hot air masses. At all times, people paid special attention to the doors separating the living space from the outside world, trying to decorate them, make them massive and reliable. Nothing has changed today. There is only one single difference - the range of possibilities when choosing entrance doors has become much wider.

Content

  • 1 Features of the device of wooden street doors

    1.1 What types of wood are street doors made from?

  • 2 Manufacturing of wooden street doors

    • 2.1 Materials for making the door
    • 2.2 Step-by-step assembly instructions

      • 2.2.1 Video: tongue-and-groove door
      • 2.2.2 Video: making a wooden door on a hand mill
  • 3 Installation of wooden street doors

    • 3.1 Fitting the door frame
    • 3.2 Hanging the door leaf

      3.2.1 Video: Installing a Wooden Front Door

  • 4 Repair and restoration of wooden street doors

    • 4.1 Repair and maintenance of hinges
    • 4.2 Restoring the surface of the door leaf

      • 4.2.1 Video: painting doors "like a stone"
      • 4.2.2 Video: Updating the Old Front Door
    • 4.3 Periodic maintenance of the front door

Features of the device of wooden street doors

Wooden doors are classified by design and material. These usually include products from:

  • natural solid wood;
  • wood-based materials - plywood, MDF, fiberboard and OSB.

There are many combined options. For example, the frame and frame of the door leaf can be made of planks, and the inside of the sash can be made of film faced plywood or chipboard. Outwardly, this door is no different from a natural one, its price is much lower, but it is not suitable for installation as an entrance door.

By design, street doors are divided into two classes.

  1. Shield. Consist of planed or polished planks or bars. The canvas is a flat plane made of natural boards, tied with transverse and diagonal bars. Such a door is easy to assemble in a home workshop.

    Panel entrance door
    Panel entrance door

    Panel door leaf is assembled from well-processed boards

  2. Paneled doors. Quite a complex structure, a distinctive feature of which is the panel - an insert in the middle of the canvas. The connection of the parts is carried out using spikes and grooves selected inside the canvas frame. Manufacturing requires special equipment.

    Paneled entrance door
    Paneled entrance door

    Inner inserts of paneled doors are cut with a milling machine

What types of wood are street doors made from?

Different types of wood have different properties that must be considered when choosing.

  1. Oak. Oak doors are perhaps the most expensive in our area. The wood is extremely heavy and durable. Due to its unique structure, it is practically unaffected by high humidity and atmospheric phenomena, absorbs noise and conducts heat very poorly. For processing oak, special tools made of alloy steel are used - ordinary cutters instantly become blunt and overheat. But if the wood is well processed, it is a wonderful example - a material of dark brown color with a red or green tint and a beautiful texture looks very good both in the form of furniture and when used in doors. Over time, an oak product does not change shape and does not warp. The color becomes darker, and the price is even higher. The most valuable and durable is oak wood, which sheds its leaves in winter,while the acorns remain hanging directly on the branches. This breed grows mainly in the south of the country - in the Caucasus. Another type of oak is bog oak, which has lain under water for several years. Since wood has a high specific density, a tree that has fallen into a reservoir drowns. If, after a few years, the snag is pulled out of the water and dismissed on boards, you get a material incomparable in strength and durability. Bog oak is not harvested industrially. You can find it only from private craftsmen who were lucky enough to find material that was formed in a natural way.If, after a few years, the snag is pulled out of the water and dismissed on boards, you get a material incomparable in strength and durability. Bog oak is not harvested industrially. You can find it only from private craftsmen who were lucky enough to find material that was formed in a natural way.If, after a few years, the snag is pulled out of the water and dismissed on boards, you get a material incomparable in strength and durability. Bog oak is not harvested industrially. You can find it only from private craftsmen who were lucky enough to find material that was formed in a natural way.

    Oak doors
    Oak doors

    The oak door is distinguished by its durability, as well as a strict and noble appearance.

  2. Alder. A very common breed in the European part of the Russian Federation. Industrial procurement is carried out on a limited scale. Wood is highly resistant to moisture and has healing properties: it contains tannins, which gradually evaporate and have a beneficial effect on human health.

    Alder texture
    Alder texture

    The predominance of red shades is a distinctive feature of the solid alder

  3. Beech. It is appreciated for its uniform wood structure. However, it is heavily influenced by changes in air humidity - it changes its original size and shape. Solid beech is more often used for interior doors that function well in “room conditions”.

    Beech entrance doors
    Beech entrance doors

    Beech exterior doors are used in warm climatic zones with low humidity

  4. Ash. A distinctive feature is the high elasticity of the ash tree. At the same time, ash is only slightly inferior to oak in strength, and beech in weight. It stands out for its distinctive texture, which manifests itself in all its glory when polished.

    Ash texture
    Ash texture

    Well-polished ash wood has a matte glow

  5. Red tree. A group of tree species with a characteristic color and uniform structure. It includes such trees as mahogany, amaranth, meranti, teak, which grow mainly in South, Central America and Southeast Asia. However, some varieties of our Siberian larch are also included in this group. Many experts note that in many ways the properties of solid mahogany are similar to those of edible chestnut - they are similar in density, weight, water-repellent properties and color intensity. Some varieties, such as the Asian keriung, contain rubber resins inside the wood, which significantly increase the water resistance of the solid. Others, such as merbau, are completely inaccessible to fungi and woodworms. When polished, golden streaks emerge on the surface, which adorn doors or furniture.

    Mahogany doors
    Mahogany doors

    Mahogany doors are durable and aesthetically pleasing

  6. Walnut (Caucasian) has a peculiar light green wood with high hardness and strength. It lends itself well to processing and polishing. Over time, the color changes to a dark brown. The price for solid walnut doors is quite affordable, since the breed is widespread in the wild and grown artificially on numerous farms.

    Walnut texture
    Walnut texture

    Solid and inexpensive street doors are made of solid walnut

  7. Birch tree. Despite the fact that this breed is classified as soft-leaved, with a certain technology of harvesting birch boards have high strength and low weight. For this, the birch is felled in early spring, when active sap flow begins. After removing the bark and drying for a long time, a very flexible and hard wood with a solid, almost white color is formed.

    Solid birch door
    Solid birch door

    The combination of paneled and glass inserts in the construction of a solid birch door creates an effect of lightness

  8. Pine. The advantage over other types is an affordable price. Pine forests in Russia are a ubiquitous phenomenon, so these sawn timber is in great demand. The wood has a light yellow color and a small amount of knots, but it is susceptible to moisture and temperature extremes and does not have the highest strength. In industry, glued pine is made, in which workpieces with different fiber directions are connected. In this way, the dependence of the array on external unfavorable factors is reduced. One of the unpleasant disadvantages is the release of resin when heated in the sun, especially if the door is painted in a dark color.

    Pine front door
    Pine front door

    If an entrance door made of pine is painted in a dark color, then when heated, its door leaf can release an adhesive resin.

  9. Boxwood is a rare and valuable tree species. Differs in high strength, the density of the structure is comparable to bone. The color is light yellow, matte, with an earthy tint. It is used for the manufacture of expensive furniture and interior items, as well as for the production of luxury doors.

Many other types of trees are also used in the manufacture of a door leaf, here we have listed only the main ones that are more inherent in our latitudes. In Asia, for example, bamboo doors are widespread, but in our conditions they will not be able to perform the functions assigned to them due to the physical properties and characteristics of the Russian climate. Although they are used quite often in interior design solutions.

When buying street doors, you need to know that you can make a leaf and a door frame from an array of almost any type of wood. And this is often used by unscrupulous manufacturers. Having given the wood product the characteristics of an expensive species with modern imitation tools, they sell them at inflated prices. Visually and by touch, it is very difficult to detect a catch, it requires qualifications and a lot of experience. A simple conclusion logically follows from this: it is better to buy solid wood doors from reputable and time-tested companies that value their reputation.

Manufacturing of wooden street doors

Door manufacturing is a well-developed business today. Along with the giants supplying a huge range of wooden doors to the market, small factories and simply carpentry workshops that work to order are involved in the business. Paneled doors are very popular and in demand; their exquisite form always pleases the eye. But panel doors are also in demand, first of all, in the countryside, in summer cottages, in ancillary buildings - where design fades into the background, and the main emphasis is on simplicity and reliability. If you have a simple carpentry tool and materials, a panel door can be made on your own in just a few hours.

Materials for making doors

For the manufacture of street doors, first of all, boards from solid wood are needed. With standard dimensions (height 2000 mm, width 900 mm) of the entrance door, boards with a width of 100–150 mm and a thickness of 40–60 mm are required. The length can be calculated as follows. Let's say you have a board 100 mm wide. To assemble a shield from such material, you need 9x2 = 18 linear meters of the board. In addition, it must be borne in mind that there is always the possibility of errors, and trimming and waste occurs when fitting. Therefore, it will be correct to procure the starting material with a margin of 10-15%.

It is very convenient to assemble an external door from grooved floorboards. They are arranged in such a way that the adjacent elements merge into a single monolithic plane.

Connecting grooved boards
Connecting grooved boards

The tongue-and-groove boards are joined together using a thorn-groove connection

Such material usually has a calibrated size and a high quality surface finish.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

The procedure for making a wooden door will be as follows.

  1. A drawing of the structure of the future door is drawn up, on which the general and local dimensions are indicated. The overall dimensions are determined when measuring the doorway and are set by the width and height of the door frame. The canvas should fit inside the frame without any problems, open and close freely. To do this, technological gaps must be left on each of the four sides of the sash, the size of which is recommended to be set at least 3-4 mm. Moreover, the greater the thickness of the web, the greater the gap is left. Among other things, this is necessary so that when the air humidity and temperature change, the swollen door does not get stuck, and can also easily move inside the frame.

    Drawing of wooden doors
    Drawing of wooden doors

    The drawing indicates not only the dimensions of the doors, but also the size of the gaps between the canvas and the frame.

  2. The same parts are cut, equal in length to the height of the door. Marking is carried out using a carpentry square. The cut angle must be exactly 90 °. The number of parts is determined by dividing the door width by the workpiece width. So, in the case discussed above, to assemble a door 90 cm wide from boards of 10 cm, you will need 90/10 = 9 identical segments of 2 m long.
  3. A rectangular shield is assembled from prepared segments. At the first stage, the installation is of a fitting nature. It is necessary to connect the boards at the end part, adjust one to the other and maintain the overall dimensions. If everything matches and there is no need for fitting, the canvas is disassembled, the spikes and grooves are greased with glue and assembled again. In this case, it is advisable to use clamps that help to fix the product in the desired position while the glue dries.

    Panel door assembly
    Panel door assembly

    The corners of the frame are reinforced with screw fasteners, for which a countersink hole is drilled

  4. In addition to the glue connection, the board is tied with wooden blocks or special loops with an extended wing. This increases the strength of the product. The dressing can be transverse, diagonal, or both at the same time.
  5. The door leaf is being finished. This can be painting, varnishing or pasting with laminated film. The first two types of coating are most often used, although the laminated film also protects the surface well from the effects of the external environment.

    Door painting
    Door painting

    The use of a spray gun allows you to paint the door much faster and make the coating even

Video: tongue-and-groove door

If the workshop is equipped with high-quality hand and electric tools, you can take up the manufacture of a panel door leaf structure. A big plus of a paneled door is its attractive appearance, which hides many of the objective defects of the material used.

Video: making a wooden door on a hand mill

Installation of wooden street doors

Any door consists of two main parts - a frame and a door leaf with hung fittings. These parts are installed in turn.

Door frame installation

Door installation begins with the installation of the box. A frame without a canvas is mounted in the opening with the help of fasteners. It is necessary to align the door frame in two axes - horizontal and vertical, for which a hydraulic building level or a laser level is used. In addition, the position of the frame is determined by the thickness (depth) of the opening. The door frame is positioned so that subsequently the platbands completely cover all mounting slots and gaps. If the depth of the door frame is less than the depth of the opening, additional elements are used that allow you to adjust the size of the frame. At the initial stage of installation, wedges made of wood or plastic are used. They pre-fix the frame in the desired position.

Door frame installation diagram
Door frame installation diagram

The space between the door frame and the wall is closed with platbands and decorative additional elements

Since we are talking about street entrance doors, the installation must be carried out using strong anchors. Otherwise, the door will not be an obstacle for burglars. The gaps between the opening and the door frame are filled not with foam, but with cement mortar using additional spacers and brackets. If the walls of the building are made of logs or beams, the door frame is spliced ​​using brackets and metal plates. The gaps between the opening and the door frame are filled with special sealants, which, when dried, turn into a solid rubbery mass.

Hanging the door leaf

After the door frame has dried and settled, the door leaf is mounted. The assembly takes place in the following sequence.

  1. Hanging devices - loops are marked and installed. They can have a different structure. For entrance doors, it is advisable to use internal hinges, which are completely inaccessible to intruders when the doors are closed.

    Installation of hinges on the door
    Installation of hinges on the door

    Loops are fixed using self-tapping screws

  2. The sash is hung. In this case, it is necessary to accurately distribute the gaps along the perimeter of the web. Skews in the vertical plane are unacceptable.
  3. Fittings are installed - door handles, a lock, a peephole and a closer. All components are mounted in accordance with their device. For handles, it is usually necessary to drill a through hole through the blade. The lock cuts into the end of the sash, the counterpart is located on the frame. The peephole can be either optical or electronic. To install the first, you need to make a hole with a large diameter, under the second it is enough to punch a small hole through which the wire is passed.

    Door hardware installation
    Door hardware installation

    For the lock, a hole is drilled with a drill at the end of the door leaf

  4. Lastly, a seal is glued to the frame. Rubber seals often have a self-adhesive surface. It is easy to work with such a product, you just need to remove the protective film and carefully apply the seal to the frame. For better fixation, a stapler is sometimes used, but the staples should not be left unloaded to the end, ideally the staple should be buried in the thickness of the rubber.

    Installation of the entrance door seal
    Installation of the entrance door seal

    The seal must be made of high quality rubber that can withstand multiple compression and expansion cycles

Video: installing a wooden front door

Repair and restoration of wooden street doors

Whatever the quality of the doors, sooner or later, during the operation, situations arise when repairs are required. Moreover, the same rule applies to doors as to any other technical device: in order to prevent large and expensive repairs, you need to regularly carry out minor restoration work. This, in fact, is maintenance.

Most often, the moving parts of the doors - the hinges - need to be repaired. It is they who bear all the burdens of daily use of the doors.

Repair and maintenance of hinges

Signs of dysfunction of the loops are:

  • the appearance of extraneous sounds, creaks, rustles;
  • the skew of the door leaf, when, when closing, the sash hits the door frame;
  • unstable operation of the door handle and lock, due to which the closing is accompanied by significant efforts.

Since there are a great many types of loops, it is difficult to give a 100% answer to the question of the cause of the defect. As practice shows, most often this happens due to the fact that the assembly was not conscientious enough. The fastening of the hinges is gradually weakened, a gap appears, and the door begins to slam, creak and warp. If you react right away, there won't be much destruction. But in advanced cases, it is often necessary to change the entire door leaf. Another reason for the loosening of the hinges is the swelling of the wood, which occurs with prolonged exposure to water. The owner's task in this case is to prevent moisture from getting on the door leaf as a whole (and on the hinges in particular).

The first thing to do when anxiety symptoms appear is to carefully examine the loops. If there is no obvious damage, lubricate the mechanism with a household oil, such as WD-40.

Household grease WD-40
Household grease WD-40

Inexpensive household lubricant avoids the effects of water on metal surfaces and eliminates hinge creaking

If this procedure does not help, you need to understand the mechanism of the awnings. Perhaps they are adjustable, then the whole task comes down to adjusting the position of the sash. To do this, you need to study the technical documentation for the product and determine the location of the adjusting screws. Most often there are three of them: one adjusts the position of the doors horizontally, the other - vertically, the third - the depth of planting of the canvas. With the help of adjustment, it is possible to return the blade to the working position without replacement.

Buttonhole adjustment
Buttonhole adjustment

The hinges are adjusted with a special hex key, which is included in the door hinge kit

Restoring the surface of the door leaf

In case of mechanical damage to the door leaf, it becomes necessary to restore the surface. There are many ways to restore and upgrade doors. The most popular are:

  • cleaning the sash from old paint and applying a new coating;
  • drawing a picture on the door;
  • changing the shape and facade of the door leaf;
  • gluing perspective wallpaper or laminated film on the door.

To carry out the restoration, the door must be removed from its hinges and positioned in a position convenient for processing at a height of 80–90 cm above the floor level.

Depending on the chosen method of restoration, hand and power tools are used:

  • a set of sandpaper;

    Sandpaper
    Sandpaper

    Sandpaper is selected according to the grain size: the larger the abrasive elements, the lower the product marking

  • grinder with a grinding attachment;
  • electric plane;

    Electric planer
    Electric planer

    The planing depth is adjusted by turning the lever located on the planer body

  • construction hair dryer;

    Building hair dryer
    Building hair dryer

    The construction hair dryer creates a stream of air with a temperature of up to 750 degrees - this is enough to remove old paint

  • brushes, spatulas, hard-bristled brushes, scrapers;
  • painting knife.

Consumables include:

  • paints, varnishes, stains;
  • solvents;
  • glue, masking tape;
  • putties for wood of different colors.

The restored canvas is cleaned with a hair dryer and a spatula from the old paint.

Removing old paint
Removing old paint

Removal of old paint from the surface of the door is carried out with a spatula and a construction hair dryer.

Then the surface is additionally sanded with sandpaper. If there are scratches or chips, they are leveled with putty. It needs 24 hours to dry completely. Then the sash surface is painted according to the plan, varnished or pasted over with vinyl film.

Video: painting doors "like a stone"

An interesting solution is offered by sticker manufacturers. With their help, small defects are made invisible, which are easier to glue than to restore the entire door.

Vinyl stickers
Vinyl stickers

With the help of original stickers, you can hide minor defects on the door surface

You can also update the exterior of your front door with MDF panels. This is a popular and inexpensive method today.

Video: updating the old front door

Sometimes doors are decorated with very unusual materials - buckwheat, leaves and sand. But artistic talent is needed here. The technology itself is quite simple - a pattern or a plot is laid out from small objects, then everything is filled with glue and varnished in several layers.

Buckwheat paintings on the doors
Buckwheat paintings on the doors

An original solution for updating the appearance of doors can be obtained using cereals, fine sand, paint and glue

Periodic maintenance of the front door

In addition to the above measures related to the renovation of doors, one should not forget about simple care, which consists in cleaning from dust and adhesion of dirt.

A few simple tips for keeping your door in good working order:

  • once a week, remove accumulated dust, and not only from the surface of the canvas, but also from the ends of the door and frame;
  • lubricate rubbing parts once a month - hinges, locks, door handles;
  • every five years, remove the outer coating of the door and treat the surface with a new compound;
  • when cleaning doors, do not use abrasive cleaners, strong chemicals, solvents based on gasoline, acids or alkali;
  • do not use hard brushes, scrapers, spatulas for cleaning the door.

When making your own entrance doors, do not forget about safety standards during installation. The use of a high-speed tool - circular, electric plane, grinder, etc. - involves the use of a respirator, protective gloves and special work clothes. Eyes are protected by glasses with shatterproof glasses.

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