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Stromanta: All The Nuances Of Caring For A Plant At Home + Photos And Videos
Stromanta: All The Nuances Of Caring For A Plant At Home + Photos And Videos

Video: Stromanta: All The Nuances Of Caring For A Plant At Home + Photos And Videos

Video: Stromanthe Thalia Triostar Care u0026 Info | Plant table | Indoor plants 2022, December
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Stromanta: a beautiful but very moody houseplant

Stromant
Stromant

Stromanta is a favorite of experienced flower growers who pay a lot of attention to their collection; photos of a tropical beauty adorn popular blogs and forums dedicated to exotic plants. Thanks to the coloring of the leaves as if hand-painted by a talented graphic artist, it is guaranteed to not go unnoticed. However, there are difficulties in growing a tropical beauty, which can be avoided by knowing the intricacies of caring for a plant at home.

Content

  • 1 Appearance of stromant and other salient features

    • 1.1 Flower changes during the day - video
    • 1.2 Species common in home floriculture

      • 1.2.1 "Natural" stromants in the photo
      • 1.2.2 Breeding hybrids - photo gallery
  • 2 How to create optimal conditions for a flower?

    2.1 Suitable growing conditions - table

  • 3 Planting and transplanting procedure
  • 4 Proper care of the plant

    • 4.1 Watering
    • 4.2 Fertilization

      4.2.1 Important nuances of stromant care - video

    • 4.3 Possible care errors

      4.3.1 Problems in growing and how to solve them - table

  • 5 How to deal with pests?

    • 5.1 Common pests stromant - table

      5.1.1 Harmful insects in the photo

  • 6 Breeding methods

    • 6.1 Bush division
    • 6.2 Rooting cuttings with leaves
  • 7 Reviews of florists

Stromant appearance and other salient features

Stromant in nature
Stromant in nature

Stromanta was created by nature without human participation, although it is difficult to believe in it

Stromanthe is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants belonging to the Marantaceae family. Her homeland is tropical tropical South and Central American forests. There the stromant grows up to 1.5–2 m, the length of the leaves reaches 50–70 cm.

This plant is a masterpiece created by nature itself. Bright green graceful leaves with a pattern of vanilla, cream, salad, yellowish and pinkish longitudinal stripes are very decorative, uplifting and pleasing to the eye. This combination of colors was very fond of impressionist painters. The reverse side of the beetroot-colored leaf also looks elegant, shining like silk.

It is for this, and also for its rather compact dimensions (the height of most species at home is no more than 60–80 cm), the stromant is very much loved by flower growers and breeders. The latter strive to improve and surpass the achievements of nature, breeding all new hybrids.

Potted stromant forms a continuous carpet of leaves on long stalks. The larger the capacity, the more noticeable it is. Low shoots are hidden under them, so it seems that they are not at all. The shape of the leaf is a highly elongated oval; the length at home reaches 30–35 cm.

Stromant leaves
Stromant leaves

Bright and variegated leaves of stromanthus cheer up with one of their looks

Like other Marantovs, stromanthus is known by the nickname "praying flower" or "prayer flower". During the day, its leaves are arranged almost horizontally, unmistakably finding the sun and turning in the right direction. In the evening they "stand up" almost vertically, the leaf plate is twisted into a tube. This is possible due to the structure of the petiole.

Stromanta in the evening
Stromanta in the evening

After sunset, the plant looks something like this

In general, the stromant is always in motion. It is very interesting to observe subtle changes in the appearance of a flower. In addition to sunlight, it is affected by air currents, humidity levels, temperature, and other factors. If you listen, you can even discern a slight rustle that leaves contacting each other.

Under natural conditions, stromant blooms in summer, it is almost impossible to see its flowers at home. This is a rather unpresentable sight - small greenish-white or yellowish flowers are located in the axils of a dull red bracts on a long (1 m and higher) peduncle. But the flowers of the stromant have a strong pleasant aroma.

But still, experienced florists recommend, no matter how much you want to enjoy an almost exclusive spectacle, cut the peduncle immediately after it appears. After flowering, the leaves fade, the bush thins and "falls apart", the flower almost stops growing. That is, the stromant moves away from him, as from a long and dangerous illness.

Blooming stromant
Blooming stromant

The peduncle of the stromant must be cut off immediately after appearance - flowering negatively affects the plant

To distinguish plants, you need to wait for an extremely rare flowering at home. The inflorescence of calathea is more like a basket. Its petioles are also somewhat longer than the leaves, and the leaves themselves are less elongated, but taper more sharply towards the tip. Calatheas in flower shops are much more common stromanths. They never have a cherry or beetroot underside of a leaf.

Calathea
Calathea

Calathea and stromanthus are very similar - like in a children's game, where you need to find 10 differences

Flower changes during the day - video

Species common in home floriculture

The genus stromant is not numerous. According to various sources, there are from 5 to 15 species in it. In indoor floriculture, 2–3 of the "natural" stromant are found, and they are quite rare. The rest is hybrids bred by breeding.

"Natural" stromants:

  • Pleasant stromant (amabilis). The height of the plant does not exceed 25–35 cm. The length of the leaf is 15–20 cm, the width is 4–6 cm. The lettuce-colored leaves are covered with a herringbone pattern of wide green-violet stripes arranged so that they repeat the bends of the veins. Below the leaf blade is olive, with a slightly noticeable pinkish tint. It blooms in spring or early summer.
  • Stromanta bloody, or blood-red (sanguinea). Height - 45-50 cm, the length of the leaf, depending on the conditions of maintenance and care, varies from 20 to 40 cm, width - 7-10 cm. In shape, the leaves are like arrowheads. Drawing in the shape of a V, darker than the main tone of the sheet. Below, the leaf is colored cherry. The flowers are white, the bracts are coral.
  • Stromanta yellow (jacquinii or lutea). Due to its size (height about 2 m), it is rare in modern apartments, but it is quite capable of existing there. The leaves are small compared to the plant - 30–35 cm, therefore, intensively branching stems are clearly visible. Blooms in late winter, flowers are small, sunny yellow.

"Natural" stromants in the photo

Stromanta is pleasant
Stromanta is pleasant

Stromanta is pleasant in comparison with brighter and more spectacular "relatives" seems to be Cinderella, but this makes her no less capricious

Stromanta blood red
Stromanta blood red

Blood-red stromanta is the "parent" of almost all varieties bred by breeding

Stromantha yellow
Stromantha yellow

Stromanta yellow is practically unknown to domestic flower growers - in part, its wide distribution is hindered by the dimensions of the plant (or modern apartments)

The "parent" of the absolute majority of breeding hybrids is the blood-red stromant. The most common are Tricolor, Multicolor, Maroon, Horticolor and Stripe Star.

Breeding hybrids - photo gallery

Stromanta Triostar
Stromanta Triostar

Variety Tricolor (aka Tricolor, Triostar) - a dark leaf plate is lined with multi-colored stripes - white-green, pale pink, lettuce (purple leaves below)

Stromanta Multicolor
Stromanta Multicolor

Stromanta Multicolor - on a dark green background, spots and stains of all shades of green are randomly located - from light, almost white to rich emerald

Stromanta Maroon
Stromanta Maroon

Stromanta Maroon: elegant simplicity - salad center vein on a bright green background, the transition of shades is slightly blurred (below the leaf is beet or cherry color)

Stromanta Horticolor
Stromanta Horticolor

Hybrid Horticolor - a pattern in the form of stripes and spots of bright green, olive, lime, yellowish color on a dark background

Stromanta Stripe Star
Stromanta Stripe Star

Stromanta Stripe Star - almost white asymmetrical stripes extend from the central vein on a dark green, almost black background (burgundy leaf below)

How to create optimal conditions for a flower?

It is difficult, but possible, to create the desired microclimate for the stromante at home. For this, it is imperative to take into account that in nature the plant is accustomed to the conditions of the humid tropics. In the homeland, the stromancer almost does not receive sunlight due to the fact that the intertwining crowns of tall trees form a continuous canopy.

Spray
Spray

A spray bottle is an absolute must for those who are going to grow stromanthus

Suitable growing conditions - table

Factor Recommendations
Location Sill of a window facing east, west or south (the latter - with the obligatory shading). In the absence of an alternative, the north window will do, but with the indispensable supplementary lighting. Stromanta is shade-tolerant, but not shade-loving. It is undesirable to change the place once chosen. The pot is not allowed outside even in the most favorable weather.
Lighting The plant prefers bright light, but not direct sunlight. It will also transfer light partial shade. Both the hot sun and the lack of light negatively affect the stromant - the leaves fade and shrink. In the tropics, daylight hours are longer than in our latitudes, therefore it is recommended to supplement the flower with special phytolamps, especially in winter and in cloudy weather. If they are used, stromants, which have no more than two shades on the leaves, will also tolerate completely artificial light (at least 16 hours a day).
Temperature During the active growing season - + 22 … + 30 ºС. In winter, it is reduced to + 18 … + 20 ºС. The flower will not survive the big "cold weather". At +15 ºС and below, the entire aboveground part of the plant dies off. You need to monitor not only the air temperature, but also the soil in the pot. Drafts (even in summer) and sudden temperature changes are strongly discouraged. In winter, you need to insulate the windows well.
Air humidity The bigger, the better. The optimal indicator is about 90%, the permissible one is 60–70%. To achieve this, the flower and the surrounding air are sprayed daily morning and evening. After the evening spraying, a plastic bag is sometimes put on the pot. In winter, the flower is removed as far as possible from heating appliances. A special air humidifier or a pallet with pebbles, expanded clay is placed next to it. The pot is wrapped with a layer of moss or coconut fiber about 5 cm thick. Every 10-15 days a warm shower is useful. In no case should you pour water into the pan.

The ideal solution for stromanta is a mini greenhouse or florarium. But at home this is not always possible.

Floriana with stromant
Floriana with stromant

The florarium is ideal for growing stromant, but not all growers have the opportunity to install it.

Planting and transplanting procedure

Stromants under 4 years of age are transplanted annually. Then one transplant is enough every 2 years. Moreover, every spring, the top layer of soil 1–2 cm thick is removed by adding fresh substrate. The best time to transplant is mid-spring.

The stromant has a well-developed root system, so the pot should resemble a bucket in shape. The diameter is selected so that the container is 2-3 cm wider than the earthen coma. If it is not possible to further increase the volume of the pot, the plant is divided into several parts.

Stromant-friendly pot
Stromant-friendly pot

The root system of the stromant grows rather quickly, so it is important that there is enough space in the pot

There is a special soil for arrowroots, and soil for azaleas, rhododendrons or palms is also suitable. It is quite sour. Other requirements for the substrate are lightness, friability and nutritional value. Experienced gardeners mix it themselves:

  • Universal soil for decorative leafy plants, peat chips and coarse sand (2: 1: 1). Optionally - crushed charcoal or red brick chips (a glass per liter of the mixture).
  • Leafy soil, humus, peat and sand (2: 2: 2: 1). A useful additive is crushed sphagnum moss.

The stromant is transplanted as follows:

  1. A quarter pot is filled with drainage. Add prepared soil (2-3 cm) on top. The soil is well moistened.
  2. The plant is removed from the old pot by gently tapping on the walls. Dried leaves affected by diseases and pests are cut off.
  3. An earthen lump, without destroying, is placed in a prepared container, soil is poured along the edges. The rhizomes should be touched as little as possible. Even when the plants are divided, they are not cleared of soil. The flower is placed in a pot rather deeply - deeper than in an old container.
  4. The stromant is watered again, put in its original place. Within 2-3 weeks, it must be especially carefully protected from the bright sun.

Proper plant care

Stromanta is a plant that needs to be attended to daily. She does not have a dormant period, so care does not change throughout the year.

Watering

The flower is watered often and abundantly, as soon as the topsoil dries up. Both lack and excess of moisture for stromant are equally destructive. In the summer, you will most likely have to water every day, in the winter - every 3-4 days. Additionally, leaves on both sides and the surrounding air are sprayed.

Water is used thawed, rainwater or passed through a filter, heated so that its temperature is 2-3 ºС higher than in the room. If the water is defended, then at least 2 days and with the obligatory addition of citric acid (for softening).

You can try a shower or a "sauna" if the stromante does not "speak out" against the change of place. Once every 10 days, the pots are left in the bathroom for 15–20 minutes, where steam has been previously infused, or they are placed in the bathtub and poured with water from the shower. Then, for 2 hours, allow the water to drain and return the pot to its original place.

Fertilization

From about mid-April to the end of autumn, stromant is fed every 12-15 days with a complex mineral fertilizer for decorative leafy indoor plants, reducing the concentration recommended by the manufacturer by 1.5-2 times. On overfeeding, especially calcium, the flower reacts sharply negatively. Choose a top dressing where calcium is minimal or absent. Ideally, you need to purchase fertilizers designed specifically for Marantovs.

Important nuances of stromant care - video

Possible care errors

Any unsuitable actions or circumstances of the stromant immediately signal to the grower with a deterioration in appearance. It takes a long time to recover, so you need to strictly adhere to the recommendations regarding the content of the flower and know what to do if problems arise.

Growing problems and ways to solve them - table

What happens to the flower? Probable cause
The leaves turn yellow and dry starting at the tips. The plant stands in direct sunlight. Rearrange the pot or at least shade the flower during the hottest hours (from 11:00 to 15:00).
Leaves curl into tubes, covered with light spots. Over time, these areas become translucent. The soil in the pot dries up due to too little or insufficient watering.
Only the tips of the leaves dry out, the flower stops growing. This usually happens in winter, since working radiators and other heating devices dry the air a lot. If spraying regularly, carefully (with a magnifying glass) inspect the flower for spider mite damage.
The petioles lose their tone, the leaves fall on the ground, fade, then fall off. This is due to excessive watering or unsuitable soil, poorly permeable to air and water, combined with a low temperature.
The petioles bend in different directions, the leaves curl. The soil in the pot is often dry or the room is too cold. Water the flower more often, use heating devices, moving the stromant away from them.
A brownish or yellow border appears along the edge of the leaf. The plant suffers from excess or lack of nutrients. Review the frequency of feeding.
Stromant problems
Stromant problems

The fact that something does not suit her, the stromant immediately signals the florist

How to deal with pests?

Despite the capriciousness, stromant is relatively rarely affected by pests. But it is impossible to neglect prevention - the flower "departs" from any damage for a long time and painfully.

Common pests stromant - table

Pest Typical symptoms How to deal with the problem?
Spider mite The tips of the leaves dry, they themselves curl, the color fades. The petioles at the junction with the leaf are entangled in thin, almost transparent threads. If you do not take action, the plant will hide under a continuous layer of whitish mass. Good prevention is regular spraying and ultraviolet light. At least once a week for 2-3 minutes, irradiate the leaves on both sides with a quartz lamp. Having found a pest, apply a soap-alcohol solution to the leaves for 30-40 minutes, then take a shower. After 2-3 hours, spray the flower with acaricide (Fitoverm, Agravertin, Aktofit, Vermitic, Nisoran, Sunmayt, Oberon) and, if possible, seal the top with a plastic bag. They take it off after 2-3 days. You will need at least 3 treatments with different drugs at intervals of 10–20 days. Folk remedy - infusion of garlic or decoction of cyclamen tubers.
Shield On the leaves below, at first, almost flat, then more and more convex rounded outgrowths of a gray-brown color appear. Areas around them turn yellow, then discolor. Visible pests are removed with a cotton pad dipped in alcohol or alcohol tincture of calendula. Then they arrange a hot (+ 45… + 50 ºС) shower for the flower. The stromant and the soil are well sprayed with an insecticide (Bankol, Aktellik, Mospilan, Metaphos) and closed in a bag for two days. In especially severe cases, Phosphate is used, but it is very toxic. After processing 2-3 days, protect the flower from the bright sun.
Whitefly The larvae suck the juice from the leaves. They deform and dry out. The flower almost stops growing. Adults are successfully scared off by infusions of strong-smelling herbs, onions, and garlic. Sticky tape is effective for catching flies. Of insecticides, Aktar, Admiral, Commander, Tanrek, Inta-Vir are used. The solution is either sprayed on the flower and soil every 5-7 days for 1.5-2 months, or the substrate is watered at regular intervals for 3-4 weeks. In the second case, the concentration of the agent is halved.
Thrips Insects in whole colonies settle on the underside of the leaf plate, sucking out the juice. At the same time, an almost transparent sticky discharge appears. From above, the sheet is covered with thin beige "strokes" and takes on a silvery hue. Fight against adult thrips in the same way as with whiteflies. A folk remedy for larvae is an infusion of potato tops, tobacco crumbs or mustard leaves. Effective insecticides - Mospilan, Apache, Dantop, Gaupsin, BI-58. The flower is washed under the shower, sprayed, placed in a bag for 2-3 days.

Harmful insects in the photo

Spider mites
Spider mites

Spider mites are fought with the help of special preparations - acaricides (the hotter it is outside, the more often the treatment needs to be carried out)

Shields
Shields

The shield is protected by a rather durable shell, so folk remedies and even some insecticides do not have a noticeable effect on it

Whiteflies
Whiteflies

For some reason, the whitefly loves the yellow color very much - homemade traps made from pieces of yellow cardboard smeared with long-drying glue are quite effective against the pest

Thrips
Thrips

Thrips are easily recognizable by the uncharacteristic silvery shade that the leaf plate acquires.

Reproduction methods

Growing stromant from seeds at home is a time-consuming and energy-consuming procedure that does not guarantee success. Most often, professional breeders who want to get new hybrids resort to this method.

Dividing the bush

The bush is divided into several new ones in the process of the next transplant. It is not recommended to divide the old plant into more than 3-4 parts.

Division of the stromant bush
Division of the stromant bush

Dividing a bush is the easiest and fastest way to get several new ones from one stromant

  1. Carefully untangle the rhizomes of the stromant, trying to destroy the earthy ball as little as possible. Make incisions in the right places with a sharpened, sterile knife. Powder the sections with crushed chalk, activated carbon, colloidal sulfur.
  2. Fill pots of suitable size with a mixture of peat chips with humus, sand, perlite or vermiculite (2: 1: 1: 1), moisten the substrate. Don't forget about drainage.
  3. When the moisture is absorbed, plant the stromants and pour abundantly with heated water. Very long roots can be trimmed 3-4 cm.
  4. Create a "greenhouse" by placing containers in loosely tied plastic bags, covered with glass covers. Provide the flowers with bright light for 12-14 hours a day, temperature + 22… + 25 ºС, ideally bottom heating. Open the "greenhouse" daily for ventilation, moisten the soil as it dries. After 15–20 days, the "greenhouse" can be removed completely.
  5. When the flower gives a new leaf, wait another 1.5-2 months and transplant the stromant into the soil for mature plants. Next, look after as usual.

Rooting cuttings with leaves

The planting material is obtained by cutting off the top 8-10 cm long stromant from healthy 2-3-year-old shoots just below the point at which the leaf petioles are attached to the stem. Usually there are 2-4 leaves on the handle.

Rooted stromant stalk
Rooted stromant stalk

Rooting of apical stromant cuttings takes quite a long time

  1. Treat the cut site on the plant and cuttings with a 2% solution of any fungicide, sprinkle it with activated carbon powder.
  2. Place the cutting in a container with heated water or a solution of a root stimulator. Cover on top to create a greenhouse effect.
  3. Create the same conditions for the cuttings as when dividing the bush. Constant temperature and high humidity are especially important. Change the water in the container once a week.
  4. Under optimal conditions, cuttings give roots in 30-50 days. After the first new leaf appears, transplant them into a mixture of peat and leaf humus.
  5. Transplant the stromants again as mature plants at an appropriate time. Then take care of it as described above.

Florist reviews

Before growing stromant, it is better to practice on less whimsical plants, because the flower reacts sharply negatively to the slightest mistakes in care and violations in the optimal microclimate. But the time and energy given to it are more than compensated for by the bright variegated leaves with which the flower pleases you all year round. Exotic stromant is a real interior decoration.

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